Where to put additional fuse block inside cabin?

Spktyr

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I am going to be running a separate power cable into the interior of my 4R to feed a fuse box that will power my radar detector, dash cam and SiriusXM radio via hard wiring (so I can get rid of the jungle of wires coming from the various cigarette lighter adapters). A similar fuse box to give an idea of size/shape:

81HSCh8faCL._SL1500_.jpg


Where is a good place to put this thing in the interior so I can get relatively easy access to it to check/replace fuses? Thanks.
 
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I fabricated a mount for my fuse/relay box that bolted onto the body near the steering shaft. There's a lot of room up there in the dash for hiding electronics if you don't mind the extra effort.
 
Looking more for up under the dash or in the center console area for ease of access and shorter cable runs. Any other places under there?

would something like this work? I have charging flashlights and some power outlets installed and this works great, you don't have to worry about having parasitic drain, but still have accessories installed

MZL-52 12v Voltage Sensing Delay Timer | ACDC Industries

It could work but I was planning to have all this stuff ignition switched via relay - i.e., the relay senses when the ignition is switched off (by tapping off switched 12V in the radio harness) and cuts power to the fusebox.
 
I am going to be running a separate power cable into the interior of my 4R to feed a fuse box that will power my radar detector, dash cam and SiriusXM radio via hard wiring (so I can get rid of the jungle of wires coming from the various cigarette lighter adapters). A similar fuse box to give an idea of size/shape:

81HSCh8faCL._SL1500_.jpg


Where is a good place to put this thing in the interior so I can get relatively easy access to it to check/replace fuses? Thanks.

this is where I mounted my in dash extra stuff. I did do my stuff ACC so you would just want a different fuse tap location. it's really not that bad getting to the location where I mounted mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiA2XzTUCDs&feature=youtu.be&t=581
 
I mounted a Blue Sea fuse box, a ground bar, and a relay box, under the dash, as shown below. It's a pretty convenient location.

I mounted them all on a piece of plexiglass, and ran a 4 AWG cable from the battery, through a 100A circuit breaker and a 100A relay, and to the fuse box.

 
I mounted a Blue Sea fuse box, a ground bar, and a relay box, under the dash, as shown below. It's a pretty convenient location.

I mounted them all on a piece of plexiglass, and ran a 4 AWG cable from the battery, through a 100A circuit breaker and a 100A relay, and to the fuse box.

Dont suppose this would work with a clutch pedal in the way. Regardless, could you share details on your firewall pass-through and the relay box you used?

Thanks!
 
Dont suppose this would work with a clutch pedal in the way.

Unfortunately not - I used the clutch pedal location for the pass-through!

Regardless, could you share details on your firewall pass-through and the relay box you used?

Sure thing:

Fuse box

Ground bar

Pass through

Relay Box - 1999 Toyota Corolla Engine Room Relay Box №5 - Fuse box Toyota Corolla E110

Here's the setup for the circuit breaker and relay:



One thing I'd add, if you don't need many new circuits, you may want to consider adding fuses to the existing empty slots in the current under-hood fuse box. There are a couple of empty slots there that would be easier and cheaper to populate than to run all the wiring that I did for my project. But I needed about 6 fuses, and several relays, so this was perfect.
 
That's pretty cool, though after cutting the hole for the same Daystar firewall boot you used in my firewall I'm not exactly anxious to do it again. Several good ideas here. I may combine several of them into a different way to do it.

I'm only going to need 30 amps inside the vehicle at most - my plan is to put a 30A fuse near the battery and run a single 8 gauge from that into the vehicle and to my fuse box via a single relay.

Sleepydad, that stuff in the video is a rubber mat backed by jute padding, not asbestos. Asbestos is a light, friable (crispy) hard material that powders easily if disturbed. Jute is pretty much harmless unless it has been colonized by mold.
 
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That's pretty cool, though after cutting the hole for the same Daystar firewall boot you used in my firewall I'm not exactly anxious to do it again.

Well if you already have the pass-through, you can just use that one, no?

Several good ideas here. I may combine several of them into a different way to do it.

Yup, that's exactly how I came up with my setup - poached from a bunch of good suggestions by others (including sleepydad) to come up with what worked best for me :).
 
Yes, but it looks like your mounting plate goes into holes drilled in the firewall as well. Or are there already captive nuts there on the firewall?

Ah, I see. No, I didn't drill any new holes in the firewall for the mounting plate. I fabricated two brackets to support the plate - one on the left side, attaching to the existing M6 screw location, and one on the right side, attaching to two of the brake pedal M8 studs.

I replaced the speed-nuts with rivnuts for the final version.





 
What was involved in doing this?

I did something similar to 4runner4leon's setup. I cut up and drilled holes into a thin piece of sheet metal and bolted it to the brake pedal bolts just like he did. Then I bolted my relay/fuse box to it. I drilled a hole through the firewall and mounted a 1/2" NPT galvanized cord grip.

One thing I'd warn about doing a single 30A fuse is that it's not going to protect individual devices. It'll pop if you have something serious like a ground fault, but other than that, it won't help much, say, if your phone charger shorts out and catches on fire.

It's happened to me on a 15A fused cigarette lighter plug. While driving.

I'd recommend doing a 30A fuse as a main and use smaller fuses for branching circuits.
 
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I did something similar to 4runner4leon's setup. I cut up and drilled holes into a thin piece of sheet metal and bolted it to the brake pedal bolts just like he did. Then I bolted my relay/fuse box to it. I drilled a hole through the firewall and mounted a 1/2" NPT galvanized cord grip.

One thing I'd warn about doing a single 30A fuse is that it's not going to protect individual devices. It'll pop if you have something serious like a ground fault, but other than that, it won't help much, say, if your phone charger shorts out and catches on fire.

It's happened to me on a 15A fused cigarette lighter plug. While driving.

I'd recommend doing a 30A fuse as a main and use smaller fuses for branching circuits.

I wasn't planning on just having the one fuse. The plan is for an 8 gauge wire, fused at the battery end, to be run into the cabin to a relay. That relay is to be switched by ignition power and will switch power from the 8 gauge into the fuse block. Said fuse block has six circuits with one fuse per each.
 

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