Which lift is good for me? EMU? Toytec ultimate?

[spoiler900]

Hey guys sorry for another lift question

I need new shocks and strongly considering lifting it at the same time, wondering which lift is best for my scenario. Yes I read the lift sticky already just want to ask a couple specific questions.

I am NOT mechanically inclinded and know little on suspsion parts

Heres what I need:
Vehicle: 99 Limited 4X4 with 240,000 miles
Want: 3" Lift with smooth ride (rest of the family have a new lexus)
Useage: Mostly looks, might run larger tires down the road, I do not do any sort of major off roading
Budget: Im a college student, enough said

Called toytec today because I read about them in members posts...They recomended either the EMU lift ($835) or the ultimate lift kit ($1029) and said not to do spacers since I have high mileage. I would need to pay a shop more to install everything and dont want to break the bank?

Whats the deal is this what Im looking for or is there more options out there that I dont know about, like replacing coils or getting land cruiser springs or something I read about? Thanks guys

 

[blizz86]

Hey guys sorry for another lift question

I need new shocks and strongly considering lifting it at the same time, wondering which lift is best for my scenario. Yes I read the lift sticky already just want to ask a couple specific questions.

I am NOT mechanically inclinded and know little on suspsion parts

Heres what I need:
Vehicle: 99 Limited 4X4 with 240,000 miles
Want: 3" Lift with smooth ride (rest of the family have a new lexus)
Useage: Mostly looks, might run larger tires down the road, I do not do any sort of major off roading
Budget: Im a college student, enough said

Called toytec today because I read about them in members posts...They recomended either the EMU lift ($835) or the ultimate lift kit ($1029) and said not to do spacers since I have high mileage. I would need to pay a shop more to install everything and dont want to break the bank?

Whats the deal is this what Im looking for or is there more options out there that I dont know about, like replacing coils or getting land cruiser springs or something I read about? Thanks guys

Look into the [MENTION=63060]rickashay[/MENTION] suspension comparison thread. I think it has everything you're looking for.

 

[GhostRing]

Only as MY recommendation, but you won't be doing the vehicle any favors at 3" of lift.
Your CV boots, ball joints, tie rods, brake lines, sway bars, etc. are all going to suffer
or need modification in some way.

That's a lot of work "for looks"

Just as devil's advocate here, but what about some fresh '99 talls and a 1" body lift?
Bet that would look perfect with 265s and keep the price more under control.

 

[SCRunner12]

If you want smooth do not go with OME. I'd go with the Ultimate if those are your choices. The adjustment capabilities alone are more than worth it. Or I would just go with 5100's and Eibach Toytec coils, up front and 890's or superflex and 5100's or 5125's in the back. 3" all around and a great all around ride. Cheaper than the Ultimate and damn good.

 

[alaskaflyer]

Hey guys sorry for another lift question

I am NOT mechanically inclinded and know little on suspsion parts

If you lift it you will learn! Other parts start to wear out faster. If you are just doing this for looks go with a very mild suspension lift and a body lift. And If you live in a area where they use road salt this opens a whole new set of issues just installing the lift. Maybe some guys with experience that live around you will help.

 

[TheeMikeB]

I agree with GhostRing, with that mileage a lift will only cause your CV boots to fail, and more stress on upper/lower BJ.

X2 on 99 talls and a 1/2" or 1" bodylift. Way less expensive and will do what you are looking for.

 

[EatonKyleH]

Little curious if you plan to install the lift yourself or pay shop labor. Just a heads up as this could dramatically affect the end cost of each option.

And I know another stupid question but have you taken your running boards off?

 

[nodixe]

So if milage is too high you shouldn't get a lift? What about me I'm at 168k? I was looking at bilstein with ome 890 all around or with 2 trd progresives in front and don't need much lift but I do use it daily on old logging roads and some off road but not extreme?

 

[downpour11]

So if milage is too high you shouldn't get a lift? What about me I'm at 168k? I was looking at bilstein with ome 890 all around or with 2 trd progresives in front and don't need much lift but I do use it daily on old logging roads and some off road but not extreme?

Maybe you read that wrong - he's talking about parts that suspension affects. If you're original CV's and ball joints are still on the vehicle and you lift it, it puts these at a different angle. The CV boots will blow, and there will be more stress on the ball joints. Neither are used to being at the new angle. It's best to replace these parts when you lift. Or, if you don't, just don't be surprised if you have grease spitting everywhere sooner or later.

 

[alaskaflyer]

So if milage is too high you shouldn't get a lift? What about me I'm at 168k? I was looking at bilstein with ome 890 all around or with 2 trd progresives in front and don't need much lift but I do use it daily on old logging roads and some off road but not extreme?

That's not what was being said, even though that's how it sounds! What is being said is when you lift an older, higher mileage vehicle then things tend to leak, come loose etc.... just be prepared to replace parts or do a little bit of maintenance (or they don't) it's really a crap shoot.

There! did I confuse you more!:lookout:

 

[nobb]

Just speaking from my experience.

I went with an OME 881/890 combo, no diff drop (Id rather blow CV joints than the front driveshaft) and I dont think the lift is too much such that the components are over-stressed too badly. It gave me about 2.5" front and 3" rear.

The front CV angles arent actually that bad with 2.5" in the front. But I think any more than 2.5" front and 3" rear, you'll be much more likely to run into various problems (front CV joints and rear parking brake lines).

However, if you want a soft ride, stay far far away from anything OME. You might be better off with soft Land Cruiser coils for the rear (requires brake line extension) and maybe TRD Tundra coils for the front.

 

[UT Hack]

x2 what Nobb said. I have the same setup as he does, and if you want a soft ride you're not going to be happy with what the OME kit gives you. It's a good suspension and it rides like a truck with a strong suspesion usually does: fairly rough.

Like others have said - the '99 talls and a BL will get you what you need and for a lot less money that the Toytec or OME.

 

[TheeMikeB]

Maybe you read that wrong - he's talking about parts that suspension affects. If you're original CV's and ball joints are still on the vehicle and you lift it, it puts these at a different angle. The CV boots will blow, and there will be more stress on the ball joints. Neither are used to being at the new angle. It's best to replace these parts when you lift. Or, if you don't, just don't be surprised if you have grease spitting everywhere sooner or later.

Yup, I had 120K miles on my 4runner and put my OME lift on it. 1 week later I had grease speweing out of my CV boots. Both were torn, so instead of messing with trying to save the boots, I replaced my CVs with NapaMax Drives.

Then becuase of the other issues I've seen with LBJs going, I replaced my upper/lower BJ, inner/outer TRE and steering rack bushings last month at 135K miles. It's a world of difference in the drive and steering now.

As stated just be prepared and understand that you are 'modifying' your truck and with modifications can come problems. But feel comfort in the support of this forum should you run into any problems.

 

[nodixe]

Thank you for info. I am not opposed to replacing all that as this is my dd. I am looking at reliability/durability first and was wondering where and what to start replacing. I don't really need lift so much as everyday toughness (45 min drive on old logging roads to get to work,freinds,home etc) but how to choose coils? I ordered bils 5100's already and I'm looking at eibach springs but which length? Also may I ask about how much it was to replace those parts, including the cv's? Did you replace with stock parts or were you able to upgrade anything? I would much rather start with these like a 'rebuild' before 'upgrade'.

 

[blueblur1984]

If you don't actually need to lift your truck for the trails you should look into spacers. The ride isn't ideal...a little rough but MUCH cheaper, easier to install and it will give you the mall crawler look you're out for. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[fricksean]

If you don't actually need to lift your truck for the trails you should look into spacers. The ride isn't ideal...a little rough but MUCH cheaper, easier to install and it will give you the mall crawler look you're out for. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.

I got spacers and they are perfectly fine. I'm pretty sure that's what you're looking for.

 

[nodixe]

I meant I don't need them now but road changes every winter and I only drag in 3 spots but if I take off tow package it might squeek by but I figure why not get a 2" or so lift but I defenitely want it functional....I have to drive 55 mins just to see mcdonalds and the mall is like another half our and I havnt been there in like 3 yrs so Im not even sure what the mall look is lol
Edit: duhhh....a mall crawler....I get it....but isn't it illegal to use the words "mall" and "4x4" in the same sentence? I'm not sure......
Edit again (sorry): Also that is just for work who knows where I might have to go unexpectedly? Thats also why I want to replace bj tre and cv boots. How are those kits that have all of them? I seen on ebay for $140...