White smoke out tail pipe (not sweet smelling) help!

[mgcorreia]

Hi, I have a 1997 Toyota 4runner with 220k miles, 4cyl, manual trans. Sometimes when I start my car it has trouble starting, I have to push the gas when I turn the key, and then it runs rumbly for a few blocks with a bunch of white smoke that doesn't smell sweet coming out the tail pipe. After that it runs super smooth and the white smoke disappears. And then sometimes it starts right up like normal without white smoke. I'm not noticing a pattern of when, its just random. I don't think its a head gasket. I have no check engine lights, no over heating. Any ideas?

Also I just replaced my spark plugs, water pump, thermostat, coolant, radiator, fuel injectors, spark plug wires, ect...

 

[AZ4Running]

Sounds like leaking valve seals.

 

[curtperry]

White smoke usually means coolant. You may not think head gasket but I would recommend a compression check to be sure. You can rent a gauge for free at a parts store.

Make sure to check the engine while it's completely cold.

Other possibly could be water getting in through the intake such as bad throttle body gasket or something like that.

 

[AZ4Running]

Could be head gasket. Oil and coolant burning can be hard to tell apart by the smoke, oil is more white gray and coolant is white. A co pression test is nkt the best way to check for a head gasket issue. You need a block tester and bl8ck test fuild to test for hydrcarbons in the cooling system.

 

[KidVermicious]

He got 60 PSI on a compression test but he didn't hold the throttle open. I don't know if that would make that much difference though.

mgcorreia, you need to run another compression test, use a different meter and hold the throttle open this time. If it still comes back low, you'll need to have a leakdown test done. You could rent a block test kit, but all that tests for is exhaust particles in the coolant and bad valves might not cause that.

 

[mgcorreia]

Hi guys, so I got a block tester and a compression tester. The solution in the block tester stayed blue so that's good. I did happen to have a clean start with no white smoke on the tail pipe so im not sure its accurate. I'm gonna keep it handy in case I get a bad start with white smoke and try it again if that matters.

All my spark plugs in just put in looked good, no oil on them. I'm not sure im doing the compression test right still. My readings are all over the place. Here is what I did:
1) disconnect the distributor cap
2) remove all spark plugs
3) threaded in the compression tester
4) Push clutch in, push down gas peddle all the way, turn key while keeping the pedals pressed, and turned the key
5) listen for 5 revolutions.
6) check gauge.

Results were erratic.
CYL 1: 110 to 60.
CYL 2: 100 to 80
Cyl 3: 70 to 60
CYL 4: 70 to 60


also a new piece to the puzzle I got a check engine light today, code ps 0133. Later on today I got 0300/0310 0130. Most of these are related to the oxygen sensor. My that would be an easy fix! Most likely a little too easy hahah

 

[mgcorreia]

Also I don't really feel any loss of power when I drive. I mean I get some hesitation on the freeway, but otherwise its fine.

 

[mgcorreia]

Cleared those codes off. Got a bunch of new ones. Seems like the check engine light comes on when ever I drive now. Here are the codes I get in various combinations. Car has trouble starting, I have to push the gas for it to fire up. If I start it cold it seems like I get the white smoke out the tail pipe for the first few blocks, and it idles rough. Otherwise its just a rough idle and no smoke usually. After a few blocks usually runs fine. What do you guys think?

0133
0303
0300
0125
0301
0303
0133
0130

 

[mgcorreia]

Was reading that my pcv valve might be clogged with sludge. might be worth a shot...

 

[tyr0981]

my friend, your CEL's are from the liquids being burnt in your cylinders other than gasoline..... you either have a failed head gasket or the throttle body could be leaking into the intake (unlikely).

Compression should be over 90 on ALL cylinders, 3 & 4 pressures indicate the area the compression is being lost, else the cylinder head is cracked, but it would likely be burning all the time instead of just when cold if the head was cracked / warped.

Good luck!

 

[KidVermicious]

What do you guys think?

Tough call. The block test isn't supposed to lie, but your compression numbers are garbage. So maybe valves, maybe rings, maybe both, and just maybe the block test IS lying and you do have a blown head gasket. It's tough to diagnose further over the interwebs. A leakdown test might tell you more, but it might be just putting off the inevitable, too. At some point you're going to have to get dirty. I'd pop the valve cover and check your valve clearances, and if those are good yank that head and have a machine shop put some eyeballs on it.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

For every gallon of gas burned 3/4 of a gallon of water is created as a product of combustion. Cold startups you will see water vapor coming out of tail pipe. Is a product of combustion.

The correct procedure for the compression test is to keep cranking until the needle stops rising. Then that's your number. And count compression cycles till it peaked.

Also hot engine vise cold engine.

Then if your numbers are still low it's engine or rebuild time.

 

[tyr0981]

if it where just a loss of compression i'd say valves or rings could be right, but the "White Smoke" means something is burning, that shouldn't be....

i know the sweet smell you're looking for to confirm anti'freeze steam, unless there's a large volume of anti-freeze being burnt, it won't smell 'Sweet'.

Still, i hope it's a simple fix! But sounds like serious repairs too me

:beer:

 

[mgcorreia]

If I have a blown head gasket should it smoke out the tail pipe the entire time I drive or just on start up?

I pulled the pcv valve out and it seemed in good condition, had a rattle to it. there was a little sludge on it so I cleaned it with carb cleaner. Looked in the hole it came out of, looked a little sludgy in there.

I pulled the ignition wires on the distributor cap off and turned the key. The engine sounds nice and even, no skips.

However, if I start it up and pull the oil cap off its blowing pretty hard out of the filler hole.

 

[tyr0981]

severe loss of compression on two cylinders, something that contains the pressure is failing, gaskets *CAN* come and go, it is unusual, but can happen. Like what has been said, could be valves, rings, piston's, or a head gasket. My Money is on a head gasket......

Sounds like no matter what happens, you're going to need to pull the cylinder head off. since no matter what's going on the cylinder head is coming off to see what's up, mind as well get a head gasket, Remove the head and look at the head gasket and see if there are any obvious failures with the gasket, if nothing obvious with the gasket, take the head to a machine shop and have them look at it, if head is fine, the bottom end of the engine needs rebuild.

that's how i'd do it! doesn't sound like any other options too me....

 

[mgcorreia]

Got it thanks buddy. And if im really screwed possibly the cylinder head is bad and the bottom end needs to be rebuilt. Could that be possible?

 

[mgcorreia]

Before I embark on this I know I need to drain the oil. but what about the coolant? thanks