Rushthezeppelin
New member
Alright this is getting out of hand. I thought it was bad when I saw a dozen eggs are now 5.29, now I've got to pay 50% more for Internet advice?
Sent from my moto g stylus 5G using Tapatalk
Who's running LC springs and Bilstein 5100 3rd gen shocks in the rear?
- Thread starter calnhob
- Start date
Alright this is getting out of hand. I thought it was bad when I saw a dozen eggs are now 5.29, now I've got to pay 50% more for Internet advice?
Sent from my moto g stylus 5G using Tapatalk
:lol:
Just as a follow-up to this, yesterday I helped my wife with bringing 5 new computers to her work. They are all workstations and new in the box. So, I had to empty the cargo area to get everything to fit since I also was taking the folding camp trailer to move them from the parking lot to the building.
Anyhoo, after dropping her and the computers off, I drove home with an empty truck save for the subwoofer. As I suspected, the ride was jiggly. It's too nose-down without the 100 lbs. of sand in the back. Additionally, with that much rake, the truck is a bit dive-y during braking. I wouldn't recommend this combination without the extra weight to reduce the rake, not to mention the improvement in ride quality.
We'll be doing a Winter colors ride this weekend if all goes as planned. Nothing hardcore since the marked 4WD trails are all soaking wet. I expect the off-road manners to be pretty darn good.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
What is your setup in the front? Also how did it handle all the computers in the back? Did it sag you too much?
Everything on my truck is in my signature. TRD Tundra Coils + RCD (Race Car Dynamics) Bilstein 5100 in the front. No sag from all the computers + folding cart. Handled just fine. With the LC Coils and an unloaded cargo area, the rake is just too much and it shifts a lot of the weight onto the nose of the truck. That just gets worse under braking.
My front setup was installed in September 2009, so there's 13+ years on the coils, but they haven't sagged and the front end feels like it always has. The rubber bushings on the 5100's are still in great shape. I use ATP AT-205 Re-Seal to keep the rubber parts on the entire truck conditioned. But, when you jack up the rear of the truck like that, it gets unbalanced.
If I moved the TRD Coils from the 2nd perch to the 3rd, then maybe I could run the rear unloaded as it would raise up the nose about 5/8" of an inch and I'd be back to 1" of rake. But then I'd be giving up down travel and possibly creating a harsher ride in front. So, I will keep the sand bags in the back for day-to-day and remove them as necessary.
Cheers.
theriddler
New member
I ran 300lbs of salt bags in the back of my 4runner until my Shrockworks bumper came in. It's a bit of a inconvenience but the ride was unbearable without it. For a temporary fix though, it's not a bad idea to throw some extra weight in the back as needed.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Well that's handy, got the chevy bumps tracked down from a picknpull down the street from me and should have the LC shocks in by Saturday, was a little worried I would have to put things off further just for that hardware but 303 Shock Services is local to me (it actually appears they are less than a mile from my office) so I can probably pick that up same day I pick up the shocks and get the show on the road with this.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Going to try and tackle this today or tomorrow now. Did you use 80 series torque specs for the top and bottom shock mounts?
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Also another question. The current setup in the back they didn't reuse the conical bump that rides in the spring, it's just a spacer and the progressive spring (which I'm suspecting might be a OME 906). Do I need to track down two of those conical bumps for the LC springs? I assume in addition to being an additional bump they also serve the provide a rubber surface for the spring to be against so it isn't rubbing on the body and squeaking? I assume it also provides a tad bit of additional lift?
phattyduck
Elite Member
Yes, the upper spring seat is integrated into the cone bump stop. I don't know the exact thickness, but it is non-trivial extra height. The cone bump stops won't limit flex (they don't engage before the frame stops when flexing). They will keep it quiet and keep the rear springs centered better in the upper pocket.
-Charlie
Yes, the upper spring seat is integrated into the cone bump stop. I don't know the exact thickness, but it is non-trivial extra height. The cone bump stops won't limit flex (they don't engage before the frame stops when flexing). They will keep it quiet and keep the rear springs centered better in the upper pocket.
-Charlie
I cut the center cones off of mine when I added the new ES Competition Bump Stops to replace the factory frame-mounted bumps. I used these along with some OME 10mm trim packers to get the rear of the truck where I wanted.
When I got the LC 7.5 Coils, and since they are not side-specific, I knew I would have to use a spacer for the driver's side to combat the "Toyota Lean". I chose to use the original Toyota upper coil isolator since it's about the same thickness as the OME poly trim packer. I would just buy one OME 10mm trim packer and call it good. It will cost far less than the Toyota coil isolators.
Additionally, one of the LC coils was ever so slightly taller than the other, so that one went on the driver's side. I did not use a spacer or isolator on the passenger side. There isn't any noise from the coils in the spring seats. My truck sits exactly level from side-to-side, both at the front and rear. As I've mentioned previously in this thread, I have about 1" of rake with 200lbs of weight in the back of the truck.
Hope this helps clarify things.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Finally decided to give this a go last night, was a bear of a job especially before I realized that I hadn't disconnected my swaybar. Going to need new end links for this noticed the shafts were slightly bent and I probably need to grab some front end links now anyway with the extra 3/4s of lift I got. Question is I was not able to figure out any tool combos to hold those top flats on the shaft and tighten the nut. Was able to get the bushings fairly squished with a deep socket only on top before the shaft started spinning. FSM says the spec for the OEMs is 14ftlbs (lol at ever trying to get a torque wrench up there), absolutely no clue if I hit that number. Should it be good to go just tightening until the shaft spins? Seems like it would be a really bad time if that nut manages to back off of there and I'm going on a camping trip tomorrow so I want to make sure it's good. I think I got about 3/8s of exposed threads on top currently.
phattyduck
Elite Member
You need an offset box-end wrench to do it right:
(replace the top tool with whatever you need to hold the shaft - this was a Bilstein, so it takes a hex/allen driver)
-Charlie
Rushthezeppelin
New member
You need an offset box-end wrench to do it right:
(replace the top tool with whatever you need to hold the shaft - this was a Bilstein, so it takes a hex/allen driver)
-Charlie
Yeah billsteins system is so much better, toyota shocks don't have a hex, just two flats milled into the top of the shaft. I actually found that I could get a strap wrench on the metal shroud that goes over the shaft and got enough purchase to be reasonably confident that I got things at least to 14ftlbs.
Your pictures reminds me of something else about this job and it's just how dirty it gets in the top of that cup. I thought about maybe drilling a small drain hole but I wonder if that would compromise the integrity of that cup. How much force do those experience I wonder, can't be anymore than the force it takes to compress the shock right?
phattyduck
Elite Member
There already is a drain hole, but the first little pebble clogs it and then it builds up just like that. That's some northern California volcanic dirt that has been in there for 15+ years when that picture was taken.
Just open up the hole more and it'll be fine. Make sure to paint/seal the wider hole.
-Charlie
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Interesting, I'll have to investigate that when we aren't getting snow dumped on us. Regardless I think I at least got my top nut tight enough, checked it frequently over the weekend on the camping trip and the washboards didn't make them budge. Now that the springs are settling though I'm absolutely LOVING the refreshed back end. Loaded up for the camping trip it was butter smooth, granted anything feels better than clapped out shocks and spacers though. Regardless the back felt great on washboards and the light flexing I got to do. Only problem is it's making me realize I will have to refresh the front end sooner or later >< BTW any tips on bending the rear brake braket to get a little more wiggle room there? I think I'm fine on it since I'm not deleting my sway bar but I tried to bend it and it was a bear, think I only managed 10 degrees or so.
I would just get the extended bracket from Sonoran Steel. My .02
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Looks like that part is only available in one of their kits...pretty sure I'm fine at full droop currently but figured it wouldn't hurt to give myself a little extra room as insurance.
you can buy it separately:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner - Parking Brake Cable Rear Axle Bracket
– Sonoran Steel Fabrication LLC
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner - Parking Brake Cable Rear Axle Bracket
– Sonoran Steel Fabrication LLC
Rushthezeppelin
New member
That's for the parking brake, I'm talking about the actual hydraulic brake line. There's a bracket on the frame that I've been told bending is a common mod with taller lifts so that you don't end up snapping that line at full droop which would be really bad.
