Why are Bilstein 4600 for 2wd more expensive then 4wd.

[Hollywood1]

2002 Limited v-6 2wd in need of front shocks. Stock springs with 1.5 lift spacers.
After a ton of back and forth on shocks, I’m opting for the Bilstein 4600.
It’s my GF’s 4runner which will most likely never see any harsh off-road. But after reading about the comfort between the KYB vs. Bilstein 4600 I think I’m opting for the more expensive Bilsteins. I’m not sure if I trust an aftermarket spring on a quick strut rather then the old factory front springs. Don’t have the funds for a 99’ tall spring and or 5100’s.

But looking at ShockSurplus.com, which is down the street from me, I’m noticing a difference in price between the
2wd 4600 24-188234, $178 Pair
Vs. 4wd 4600 24-187244, $161 Pair.

I haven’t really read any other budget viable options for shock swap that still give a decent ride. Everything I read about the KYB is that they are stiff and close to the same price range.

Any insight would be appreciated. ����

 

[phattyduck]

Probably just supply and demand. The front shocks will be the same dimensions, physically - just tuned for the lighter front end of the 2WD.

The 4600's are longer than the stock shocks (extended length) and may not easily fit with a spacer lift, FYI...

-Charlie

 

[Hollywood1]

Ok thanks for the heads up.
Any suggestions on other shock option?
I read the KYB’s aren’t liked very well.

 

[phattyduck]

I ran (ok, my dad ran at the time) 4600's for about 80k miles, maybe more. They are a perfectly fine shock... OEM will be most comfortable - but also most expensive. I would expect KYB to be comfortable too - I'm surprised there are reports of them being stiff/uncomfortable.

Make sure you do the lower ball joints with OEM while you are in there. That's the #1 failure point on these rigs with age - especially if lifted.

-Charlie

 

[RedSled]

2002 Limited v-6 2wd in need of front shocks. Stock springs with 1.5 lift spacers.
After a ton of back and forth on shocks, I’m opting for the Bilstein 4600.
It’s my GF’s 4runner which will most likely never see any harsh off-road. But after reading about the comfort between the KYB vs. Bilstein 4600 I think I’m opting for the more expensive Bilsteins. I’m not sure if I trust an aftermarket spring on a quick strut rather then the old factory front springs. Don’t have the funds for a 99’ tall spring and or 5100’s.

But looking at ShockSurplus.com, which is down the street from me, I’m noticing a difference in price between the
2wd 4600 24-188234, $178 Pair
Vs. 4wd 4600 24-187244, $161 Pair.

I haven’t really read any other budget viable options for shock swap that still give a decent ride. Everything I read about the KYB is that they are stiff and close to the same price range.

Any insight would be appreciated. ����

TotalAutomotive is having a sale on Bilsteins, see what they can do for you. I just looked at this on his site.

 

[Hollywood1]

Thanks!

Yeah I did both Ball joints on the Passenger side in December.
I used Moog ball joints, so hopefully they’ll hold ok, it’s got 180k miles now.

I’ll be swapping the lower Ball joint on the Driver side when I do the Shock swap.
Her passenger side shock is leaking, oil on the LCA and getting noisy over bumps.

I might just check the KYB’s to see if they are better on budget.

 

[Hollywood1]

TotalAutomotive is having a sale on Bilsteins, see what they can do for you. I just looked at this on his site.

Thanks I’ll check it out.

 

[phattyduck]

I used Moog ball joints,

Those are good for 10-20k miles only - many examples of failures of Moog and other aftermarket lower ball joints on here. OEMs are good for at least 100k in normal street use (and often well over 200k - depending on how they are used).

-Charlie

 

[Hollywood1]

Oh, I called local dealer to price OEM shocks, they wanted $160 for 1!!!! ��

 

[Hollywood1]

Those are good for 10-20k miles only - many examples of failures of Moog and other aftermarket lower ball joints on here. OEMs are good for at least 100k in normal street use (and often well over 200k - depending on how they are used).

-Charlie

Ok Thanks, I’ll have to double check exactly which I bought.
I generally use OEM or NAPA parts but I was on a tight budget and time frame to get it back on the road.