Why did I wait so long to get a 4th gen??

[Toystory2]

Hey folks,

Just picked up a 2007 SR5 4WD (V6) with 141k. And must say I am extremely impressed so far. I am coming from a 2019 Tacoma OR, and this 4Runner rides and drives much better! If you didn’t look at the odometer, you couldn’t tell this thing wasn’t brand new.

The car fax on it looks fine, but of course, not everything is listed. My question is what are some of the first things to do maintenance-wise?

I did find a couple of threads on this but there wasn’t a lot.

I was planning on changing oil, trans flush, diff fluid change, k/n air filter. It doesn’t appear to have any issues at art, but is there anything else I should check or do?

 

[ads2539]

Hey folks,

Just picked up a 2007 SR5 4WD (V6) with 141k. And must say I am extremely impressed so far. I am coming from a 2019 Tacoma OR, and this 4Runner rides and drives much better! If you didn’t look at the odometer, you couldn’t tell this thing wasn’t brand new.

The car fax on it looks fine, but of course, not everything is listed. My question is what are some of the first things to do maintenance-wise?

I did find a couple of threads on this but there wasn’t a lot.

I was planning on changing oil, trans flush, diff fluid change, k/n air filter. It doesn’t appear to have any issues at art, but is there anything else I should check or do?

Congrats on the new ride!

Spark plugs, cabin air filter, age of the tires.

The suspension is possibly very tired, also.

 

[counterculture]

Congrats! I've always had a soft spot for 4th gens. I wish you many maintenance free years

 

[meltdowner]

Grease the zerks!!!!!!!! Change oil and tranny fluid. A mechanic will probably do it all cheap.

Post photos of the frame.

 

[CarlosV]

also not mentioned

drain and fill coolant and flush brake fluid, new serpentine belt, clean MAF & TB, clean or new PCV valve, clean-grease spare tire wire...

 

[GeoFlory]

I have a similar situation. Two weeks ago, I traded in my '98 4Runner on a 2007 V8 4WD Sport Edition 4Runner with 123,000 miles. I am crawling under it today checking things out. One of the first things I am doing is measuring my brake pads; if there is anything wrong, I want to do them myself; I have the larger disk brake rotors and I wouldn't trust a shop to get the right parts. I would also add an anti-freeze change to the items mentioned; I also don't trust a shop to add anti-freeze for fear that they will add tap water to my radiator. When I was a kid, I asked the mechanic what caused those deposits in the radiator and he said that nobody knows, it just happens to some cars and not others: I thought about that and decided it came from tap water and ever since always used distilled water with my antifreeze and never saw deposits again. Under the 4Runner today, I found a torn CV-joint boot, so I guess I will replace all of those.

I looked for the V8, because I wanted the 7000 lb towing capacity; then I saw the Sport Edition and decided I wanted that too. I found a nice one only one state away. I originally wanted to get something a lot newer, but decided I had to have the towing capacity of the V8, but I didn't want to go to a bigger vehicle, consequently I got a 14 year old vehicle, but I decided that it is to be a lifetime vehicle to be totally maintained forever. I hope we both have good luck with our new old 4Runners.

 

[Flesh Eater]

I just bought mine with 116k miles. I did all fluids, except p/s which I plan to do very soon, and new plugs. I’d skip the K&N filter and just put whatever on it. If going CAI, then check out AFE.

Recently I just did an Icon Stage 1 kit, front sway bar end links, Z36 338mm truck and tow brake rotors, pads, and calipers all around as well as replace all the rubber hoses with stainless braided hose. This was all done for a Colorado trip in August. It drove fine before.

The rest I’ll fix when they cause me issues.

 

[Toystory2]

Congrats on the new ride!

Spark plugs, cabin air filter, age of the tires.

The suspension is possibly very tired, also.

Thank you. Yes I believe you’re correct on the suspension. It’s got sort of a clunk when going over a bump.

 

[Toystory2]

Congrats on the new ride!

Spark plugs, cabin air filter, age of the tires.

The suspension is possibly very tired, also.

Grease the zerks!!!!!!!! Change oil and tranny fluid. A mechanic will probably do it all cheap.

Post photos of the frame.

Thanks! I’ll get some pictures up.

 

[Toystory2]

Congrats! I've always had a soft spot for 4th gens. I wish you many maintenance free years

Thank you kindly. My only other 4R was an 88 so this thing is like a Cadillac lol

 

[Toystory2]

I have a similar situation. Two weeks ago, I traded in my '98 4Runner on a 2007 V8 4WD Sport Edition 4Runner with 123,000 miles. I am crawling under it today checking things out. One of the first things I am doing is measuring my brake pads; if there is anything wrong, I want to do them myself; I have the larger disk brake rotors and I wouldn't trust a shop to get the right parts. I would also add an anti-freeze change to the items mentioned; I also don't trust a shop to add anti-freeze for fear that they will add tap water to my radiator. When I was a kid, I asked the mechanic what caused those deposits in the radiator and he said that nobody knows, it just happens to some cars and not others: I thought about that and decided it came from tap water and ever since always used distilled water with my antifreeze and never saw deposits again. Under the 4Runner today, I found a torn CV-joint boot, so I guess I will replace all of those.

I looked for the V8, because I wanted the 7000 lb towing capacity; then I saw the Sport Edition and decided I wanted that too. I found a nice one only one state away. I originally wanted to get something a lot newer, but decided I had to have the towing capacity of the V8, but I didn't want to go to a bigger vehicle, consequently I got a 14 year old vehicle, but I decided that it is to be a lifetime vehicle to be totally maintained forever. I hope we both have good luck with our new old 4Runners.

I appreciate the advice. I’m more of a wannabe mechanic, but I can do a lot of the basic stuff. I want to find someone who will put the right fluids in and not the cheap generic stuff.

I am really really curious now about the V8. How do you like it so far? I mean this V6 can get up and go, so I imagine the V8 is impressive.

 

[Toystory2]

I just bought mine with 116k miles. I did all fluids, except p/s which I plan to do very soon, and new plugs. I’d skip the K&N filter and just put whatever on it. If going CAI, then check out AFE.

Recently I just did an Icon Stage 1 kit, front sway bar end links, Z36 338mm truck and tow brake rotors, pads, and calipers all around as well as replace all the rubber hoses with stainless braided hose. This was all done for a Colorado trip in August. It drove fine before.

The rest I’ll fix when they cause me issues.

Very nice, forgot about ps fluid! Man I wish I could do my own work. The only thing I’ve notice is there is a clunk in the suspension, and I’ve read it may be sway bar bushings.

 

[Toystory2]

Here she is

Sorry about sideways pic

 

[GeoFlory]

I am really really curious now about the V8. How do you like it so far? I mean this V6 can get up and go, so I imagine the V8 is impressive.

As you point out, the V6 can get up and go. The V8 is rated for 260 hp and 306 lb-ft torque compared to the V6's 236 hp and 266 lb-ft torque, so that is 10% more hp and 15% more torque. It is a relatively small V8 at 4.7 L (285 in3), and not intended as a powerhouse, but it is a bit peppier than the V6 (I drove the '98 and '09 V6s for 14 years). I originally shied away from the V8 because I was afraid the V8 and full-time 4WD would wreak havoc on gas mileage; however, after driving the V8 home for 340 miles on the expressway, I filled it up and got 20.5 mpg which is about the same as the V6 ever got. What I have found so far is that I really like the full-time 4WD on the V8; I find I can take off from a light with rapid acceleration and not break the tires loose in the rain; with the V6's multi-mode 4WD, I often found my back tires spinning in the rain or on gravel and dirt before I manually engaged 4WD. To me, the big thing is the Class IV, weight-distributing trailer hitch (standard with V8) because I plan on towing a 6000 to 7000 lb trailer.

I also have the original XREAS suspension which I wanted to try. So far, it seems firmer and steadier than the regular suspension going over railroad tracks. I am a believer in what I have heard called the military philosophy: "If you can't test it, it's broken.", so I am wondering how to really test it. I hear a lot of people remove the XREAS, but I intend to maintain it always.

I finished checking out my brakes. The front indeed has the 338 mm rotors with the 13WH calipers; the rotors look rather impressive at 13.3 inches OD, and 1 1/8 inches thick. I measured the thickness because it just struck me that they seemed thicker than others; the rear rotors are 12.3 inches OD and 3/4 inch thick.

 

[Flesh Eater]

Very nice, forgot about ps fluid! Man I wish I could do my own work. The only thing I’ve notice is there is a clunk in the suspension, and I’ve read it may be sway bar bushings.

Just remember, none of us just magically knew how to do this stuff. I learned via forums and YouTube and have honed my skills since my first off road build almost 12 years ago. I did not grow up turning wrenches.

Go to Tekton’s website and get their 1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2” drive metric sets and you can fix anything on this Toyota with those and a big hammer.

 

[Toystory2]

Just remember, none of us just magically knew how to do this stuff. I learned via forums and YouTube and have honed my skills since my first off road build almost 12 years ago. I did not grow up turning wrenches.

Go to Tekton’s website and get their 1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2” drive metric sets and you can fix anything on this Toyota with those and a big hammer.

That’s a good point. I learned what I know now by buying an 88 Runner that had a lot of issues. It was my daily driver so I had no choice to but to fix it or stay home. Thanks for the recommendation on tools!

 

[Toystory2]

As you point out, the V6 can get up and go. The V8 is rated for 260 hp and 306 lb-ft torque compared to the V6's 236 hp and 266 lb-ft torque, so that is 10% more hp and 15% more torque. It is a relatively small V8 at 4.7 L (285 in3), and not intended as a powerhouse, but it is a bit peppier than the V6 (I drove the '98 and '09 V6s for 14 years). I originally shied away from the V8 because I was afraid the V8 and full-time 4WD would wreak havoc on gas mileage; however, after driving the V8 home for 340 miles on the expressway, I filled it up and got 20.5 mpg which is about the same as the V6 ever got. What I have found so far is that I really like the full-time 4WD on the V8; I find I can take off from a light with rapid acceleration and not break the tires loose in the rain; with the V6's multi-mode 4WD, I often found my back tires spinning in the rain or on gravel and dirt before I manually engaged 4WD. To me, the big thing is the Class IV, weight-distributing trailer hitch (standard with V8) because I plan on towing a 6000 to 7000 lb trailer.

I also have the original XREAS suspension which I wanted to try. So far, it seems firmer and steadier than the regular suspension going over railroad tracks. I am a believer in what I have heard called the military philosophy: "If you can't test it, it's broken.", so I am wondering how to really test it. I hear a lot of people remove the XREAS, but I intend to maintain it always.

I finished checking out my brakes. The front indeed has the 338 mm rotors with the 13WH calipers; the rotors look rather impressive at 13.3 inches OD, and 1 1/8 inches thick. I measured the thickness because it just struck me that they seemed thicker than others; the rear rotors are 12.3 inches OD and 3/4 inch thick.

I was also concerned about gas and extra maintenance having full time 4wd, but I’m sure they wouldn’t have built it that way if it caused problems. But man it’s sounding better and better lol I may have to start looking. I’d probably go with a limited too if I change. Don’t know if I can justify trading this awesome one I already have tho. Glad your brakes and rotors are looking good!

 

[Toystory2]

Grease the zerks!!!!!!!! Change oil and tranny fluid. A mechanic will probably do it all cheap.

Post photos of the frame.

It’s definitely got more rust than I realized : (

Most of it still seems solid, but there are a few soft spots. How horrible is this?

 

[CadRunner]

I'm Currently in the process of trading in my 2017 Tacoma OR (191,000KM) for a 2004 V8 Sport Edition (143,000 KM). Its good to hear that you are liking the ride a lot more!!
I would probably take It to a shop that deals with restoration's or a reputable body shop. They may be able to fix the soft spots on the frame with out too much issue before it gets worse? If they can fix it with out too much issue and the rest of the vehicle is in good shape then it may be worth the repair?

 

[AuSeeker]

I'm Currently in the process of trading in my 2017 Tacoma OR (191,000KM) for a 2004 V8 Sport Edition (143,000 KM). Its good to hear that you are liking the ride a lot more!!
I would probably take It to a shop that deals with restoration's or a reputable body shop. They may be able to fix the soft spots on the frame with out too much issue before it gets worse? If they can fix it with out too much issue and the rest of the vehicle is in good shape then it may be worth the repair?

If you find on a visual inspection that the frame seems to have 15% to 20% bad rust issues/spots it more than likely has twice to 3 times that much rust because many times the rust starts or is on the insides of the frame rails where you can't see it until it rust through to the outside of the frame!

Tap on all the good areas of the frame, every square inch with a hammer, if it doesn't sound solid then that spot has bad rust on the inside of the frame which will soon come through the frame.