Wider tires for 4th gen?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Evancool
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Evancool

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Figured this probably didn't qualify for the Tire and Lift sticky as I am not wanting to do a lift. I'm just looking to see if I can put wider tires on to make it a little more flush with the fender flares.

My 4Runner still has the stock tire size P265/65R17 with stock rims. I am curious to see if I can safely put on wider tires with no other modifications. Something along the lines of P315/55R17. Can it use the same stock rims or would those have to be changed too?
 
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My thoughts you would need a wider wheel. Stocks are 7 or 7.5" wide. Plus you would probably rub on the UCA, or come really close with that width. Best bet is to just ad some spacers/adapters to move the wheels out. That will make it flush.
 
Figured this probably didn't qualify for the Tire and Lift sticky as I am not wanting to do a lift. I'm just looking to see if I can put wider tires on to make it a little more flush with the fender flares.

My 4Runner still has the stock tire size P265/65R17 with stock rims. I am curious to see if I can safely put on wider tires with no other modifications. Something along the lines of P315/55R17. Can it use the same stock rims or would those have to be changed too?

After significant research on wheel fitment, I can tell you that it likely won't matter what lift you attain or chose to not attain with any given tire size. As long as you don't plan on turning the steering wheel or going over bumps, it'll never rub... uh, I mean, well, the suspension is going to have to articulate and you're going to have turn the wheels... so a heat gun and a die grinder will be your friend to make it work. Regardless of lift, the suspension still cycles within the same boundary (unless you move the bump stops)... so adding height to fix rubbing only alleviates rubbing at that height.

More to the point of your question, -12 offset on a 9" wide rim will put the rim face at approximately flush with the crest of the fender line. 0 offset on a 9" rim will put the face of the rim sunk inside the fender 0.5".

Mileage will vary as to how much clearance that affords you to the upper control arm on the inboard side of the wheel. That will depend on the section width of the tire we're talking about (and a bit dependent on tread width).

One concern with anything over 285 wide on a 9" wide wheel at -12 offset is that the tread will likely poke out beyond the fender which may or may not be legal in some states/provinces. So a 0 offset would give you 12mm more width to tuck in... but 12mm less space to the UCA.

I have 265/70R17 grabber AT2's on stock rims (+30 offset)... and I think there's about 8mm to the upper control arm. I can moreless get a finger between the two.

A few things to consider with a much larger tire is tire+wheel weight. How strong are your shocks? How do you drive the truck? I assume you have stock/OEM style suspension (since you don't have a lift). Any wheel worth owning is likely going to be atleast 25-30lbs in 17" diameter, 30-35lbs in 18", and on up from there. Any assembly over (this is guessing) ~80-90lbs is likely to cause some handling deficiencies if your suspension is tired/worn out. Your tires will bounce over obstacles under duress when they otherwise would have traction because the shock/spring combo was not designed to control the extra weight of tire installed. Anything about 100lbs could actually break the shock... someone posted a picture of a Tundra on 35" tires that snapped the lower eye of the stock shock off when he hit a speed bump.

You'll want to (ideally) stay within or very close to the approved rim width of any tire. Going outside of that will produce some weird handling in some situations. People do it though, and few have problems but beware...

Lastly, as far as I could turn up 315/55R17 isn't a production tire size. Closest thing I could find that was crazy wide and short was AMP Terrain Gripper 305/60R18, which is a 32.3" tall tire. If you want an off-road style tire, you'll be hard pressed to stay under 31.5" tires (285/60R18, which is reasonably common) and retain a profile greater than 285. If you want an onroad tire, you may be in luck to find shorter and wider tires, but your rim diameter and pricing may get crazy.

I have some measurements of the wells somewhere, I can find them if you wish.
 
You CAN get wider tires without rubbing. I have done it, but it requires everything that you read about: body mount chop/fender cutout near door/3" lift in front 2.5" lift in rear/1/5" body lift. I have 33/12.5/17 Grabber Red tires on my truck with 0 offset beadlock wheels and there is no rubbing. Those tires are super wide compared to other 12.5 tires, so if those fit than most other 12.5 tires should fit fine.
 
One last thing... it's rare to see any truck/offroad style tire in section widths greater than 275 that isn't an LT rated tire. Therefore, I have found that, with some exception, a 285 wide tire starts at around 50lbs. The Falken Wildpeak comes in P285/70R17, but is still 50lbs.

Many guys on here have described the Load Range E tires to "handle like a brick sh*thouse". The consistency of this review has made me question the viability of getting E type LT tires and having a nice smooth comfy ride that I love the 4runner so much for.

Personally never driven a brick outhouse but I would image those tires are STIFF. Something to consider if you want to bomb around town 98% of the time.
 
One last thing... it's rare to see any truck/offroad style tire in section widths greater than 275 that isn't an LT rated tire. Therefore, I have found that, with some exception, a 285 wide tire starts at around 50lbs. The Falken Wildpeak comes in P285/70R17, but is still 50lbs.

Many guys on here have described the Load Range E tires to "handle like a brick sh*thouse". The consistency of this review has made me question the viability of getting E type LT tires and having a nice smooth comfy ride that I love the 4runner so much for.

Personally never driven a brick outhouse but I would image those tires are STIFF. Something to consider if you want to bomb around town 98% of the time.
FWIW I'm on stock everything with E load rated 265/70R17 Grabber AT2s and it feels fine. Yeah, it's a bit more stiff but it actually makes the truck way more responsive in corners. Compared to the cars on coilovers that I'm used to, and my motorcycle, this thing is a couch. Anything much softer would handle too poorly, imo.
 
Figured this probably didn't qualify for the Tire and Lift sticky as I am not wanting to do a lift. I'm just looking to see if I can put wider tires on to make it a little more flush with the fender flares.

My 4Runner still has the stock tire size P265/65R17 with stock rims. I am curious to see if I can safely put on wider tires with no other modifications. Something along the lines of P315/55R17. Can it use the same stock rims or would those have to be changed too?
Cheapest and less painful (as far as fixing rubbing) is to buy a wheel with the offset you want to achieve that or add spacers. On my '04, 5th gen and FJ takeoff wheels have the perfect offset to sit pretty much flush. Your '07 has slightly wider fender flares and you may be better off with a 0 offset wheel or a wheel spacer.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. It sounds like more agree with spacers being the best (and safer) approach as I definitely want to avoid rubbing. Seeing now that a 12" width would add significant weight which can cause failure like the Tundra folly.

I am mostly an on-road driver and everything on the 4Runner is still stock. Only the actuator has been warranty replaced but everything else is original.

Looks like I got more research to do. I don't know what 0 offset wheel means, is in relation to using spacers? I have the stock rims that come on the SR5. Are those 7" or 9"?

I see now that 315/55R17 is not a production size. I got that from a tire calc site and that size matched the rim and tire diameters of current stock size with the difference of just being 2 in wider.
 

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