Winter / salt rust prevention

JabzSA

New member
I recently entertained getting a 100 series LC...and went to see one. Upon closer inspection, i saw the truck was almost completely rusted away...

that made me think about my 4R.

I moved up from Texas this summer, so have never had rust issues in the south- but now living in NY, with the 4R being outside - winter / snow / salt / rust etc it will become a topic.

I'd like to keep my truck for many years to come... but i'd also like to protect it as far as possible.

Any insight / suggestions from the folks living in the East coast or wherever it may snow as to whether there are any way of inhibiting (aside from garaging the truck which is not an option for me) rust? Do folks spray / cover the chassis with anything before winter comes..?

Thanks!
 
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I have tried Fluid Film based on may recommendations on here and to be honest I am not impressed. It seems like it would work, but it washes off pretty quick and by mid winter appears to be gone and when spring arrives I notice a bunch of surface rust appearing. I am sure it helps some, but not great IMO. I suggest undercoating from a professional shop. My dad has a 2000 Ford SD and got it undercoated when he bought it. Granted it only has 165k miles I believe, but there is zero rust on the underside from many MN winters.
 
As soon as the Temp. drops below freezing hose off the underside of your truck, this has worked for me for many winters of salt used on our roads.
 
Any rust will continue as long as there is moisture in the air. I use a rust neutralizer on my undercarriage every Spring. A wire brush will take off any loose shale. It chemically neutralizes the rust and turns it black. Even with moisture, it doesn't start rusting again except in places I've missed. I use Etch n Prep, that I bought at one of the home improvement stores. Just pour some in a glass jar and use a chip brush to brush it on. Don't get it on your skin and wear long sleeves, gloves and eye protection. Just get back under the truck every few months and look it over.
 
Fluid Film works great in areas that won't see external contamination to wear off, otherwise expect to reapply yearly. Spots under the hood and in crevices are still pretty well protected with FF from last winter.

Even the professional stuff like Krown advises to re-spray every other year or so.

I'm ok with the aerosol FF cans from Advance Auto. Find their 30% discount codes which makes it a bit more affordable. Spray my underbelly in the fall. It's important to get into the frame holes and not just spraying what you can see.
 
Fluid Film works great in areas that won't see external contamination to wear off, otherwise expect to reapply yearly. Spots under the hood and in crevices are still pretty well protected with FF from last winter.

Even the professional stuff like Krown advises to re-spray every other year or so.

I'm ok with the aerosol FF cans from Advance Auto. Find their 30% discount codes which makes it a bit more affordable. Spray my underbelly in the fall. It's important to get into the frame holes and not just spraying what you can see.
For those of us with older trucks, is there a good way to get inside the frame rails? I've been slowly going over mine and removing/spraying surface rust, but I'm afraid it's rusting from the inside out.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
For those of us with older trucks, is there a good way to get inside the frame rails? I've been slowly going over mine and removing/spraying surface rust, but I'm afraid it's rusting from the inside out.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

You can buy this hose from fluid film to get the inside of your frame. This hose attaches to the can and the nozzle has a great spray pattern. Every 1ft-1.5ft there are holes in the frame that are convenient for feeding in the hose. I used this method earlier this year.
 

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Every two weeks or so I run through the self wash stall and wand the undercarriage. Worked wonders on my subaru, and I expect it to on the 4runner.
 
I did some major frame prep and chassis saver paint when I bought my 4runner a few years ago, then been touching it up with rust oleum rattle can where it's scraped off and fluid film in the fall all over frame and suspension parts. In the spring all the crap just pressure washes off easily. I also use the spray hose inside the frame, really easy to apply. FF is still seeping out of some of the frame openings from an early spring application, not sure what it looks like on the inside but makes me feel better.
 
In 3 weeks I am taking a week off of work since I have 2 to burn by the end of the year. I am in the market for a new home so don't want to take a trip and spend the money. Anywho my plan is to protect the frame and axles on the 4Runner from rust. I'd like her to see another 18 years. My frame is in pretty good shape but the rear axles is starting to rust. I am going to get what I can stripped off. Next use GEM Rust Killer on the parts. Coat with Por15 those parts need brightened up anyhow then Fluid Film inside and out or a body cavity wax from work.

I am still doing my research on FF it seems to be a great product but we have a Transtar body cavity wax at work that I know does a great job plus a I get a nice employee discount so I'm still trying to figure out that end of the job between the 2 products.
 
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I have a local guy here in NH who does oil undercoating. Thats all he does. He sprays a mixture of chain oil, wax, and other secret ingredients into a sprayer and coats the frame rails, inside of doors, etc. I have done this a few times and my mechanic says he definitely can tell the difference!
 
I've done the "old oil" undercoating before, it mostly drips and sloughs off.

I've done Fluid Film in aerosol cans and it's good for a while but doesn't seem to last long. This year I'm using a pro outfit that does Fluid Film from the gallon cans. It's different stuff, much thicker, and its' what the Navy uses on their aircraft. A note on it from a friend who is a Navy Aero Mechanic...

The stuff in the spray can is called "AS" and it's short for "aerosol" versus "NAS" which is "non-aerosol" and works better. The "WRO" is the thickest and it's good for keeping underwater cables corrosion free.

Yes. We use it all over our aircraft. As a matter of fact we'll dip a sponge in it and wipe down the entire aircraft exterior with it. It will keep a $40 Million helicopter corrosion free even on the deck of a small ship close to the water. It's really good stuff and it's also not nearly as toxic as other materials. We go through about a gallon a month for 12 aircraft while just doing regular maintenance. A five gallon pail will coat a helicopter for a month and a half if it's flying every day.

As with most of these spray treatments, they can only do so much once a frame is already rusty. If I ever bought a brand new Toyota (or any BOF vehicle) I'd take it straight from the dealers lot and have it treated on day 1.
 
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No offense but you're from the south so you probably don't know shit about what real rust is. At most that 100 probably had surface rust and the tailgate around the window was rotted but that's about as bad as I've seen.
 
No offense but you're from the south so you probably don't know shit about what real rust is. At most that 100 probably had surface rust and the tailgate around the window was rotted but that's about as bad as I've seen.

Assumption is the mother of all $#@&*^ :-)
No offense taken. I wasn't born in the south...I just recently moved from there..

..and FYI i know the difference, but thanks for your 2 cents.
 
Assumption is the mother of all $#@&*^ :-)
No offense taken. I wasn't born in the south...I just recently moved from there..

..and FYI i know the difference, but thanks for your 2 cents.

No joke. Maybe you actually know and found a very rotted 100, but mechanics down there don't even know how to deal with a rusty bolt. They usually strip it off with an impact before using penetrating oil.
 

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