Wobble of death

[JeepKiller]

So my runner has officially eaten my rotors up, if I try to brake going any higher than about 35 mph everything shakes haha. So my question is should I just buy new rotors and drums or should I go with the tundra brake swap? Is the brake swap really worth it? I know that the rotor is thicker and the calipers bigger and it helps slowing down but is it worth the time and effort? Also how long do a set of new rotors normally last on average?

 

[jgue467]

Depends

on how you plan to use those brakes. If you live in rather level terrain, no towing, light hauling you'll probably be just fine & happy with new rotors/pads. If you plan to drive on really hilly, mountainous terrain (sierra nevada or the killer rockies), towing 3000+ you might be much happier with the TBU. I went with drilled/slotted, they're OK but i will admit they took a beating coming down some mountainous terrain, they were at their absolute limit, still worked but i could tell they were straining. Luck.

Edit: Around the Austin area, where elevations may only change 1000ft, they work great, no fading.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Don't do the TBU to reduce wobble. I had wobbly rotors on my tundra brake less than 2 years after installing them. My pads were hardly worn but the rotors were wobbly. I could have turned them down, but no one around here seems to do that anymore, so I just bought new rotors for $30/ea.

If it's just wobble that worries you, then just replace the rotors. You're talking $80 versus $300+ unless you hit great sales.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

I had a seized caliper and did the tundra swap. No ragrets. I love it.

 

[mxer]

it helps slowing down but is it worth the time and effort?

Well, braking is so overrated.

 

[allwheeldrive]

Just an fyi, sometimes those "cheap" bargain rotors are junk and will warp in no time. Also I've noticed that some aftermarket pads can speed up that issue. Oem pads are the safest bet usually.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I had a seized caliper and did the tundra swap. No ragrets. I love it.

Seized caliper is a different story. He just has warped rotors.

Just an fyi, sometimes those "cheap" bargain rotors are junk and will warp in no time. Also I've noticed that some aftermarket pads can speed up that issue. Oem pads are the safest bet usually.

Yeah, and drilled and slotted rotors have similar problems as well as they tend to crack if they were drilled and slotted rather than casted in slots and holes. Even name brand rotors aren't immune from warping though. My brembo's warped, now I am trying I think Raybestos.

Actually, to the OP, your rotors may not be warped, they may just be unevenly bedded. You can try going through a re-bedding procedure, or sand them off them re-bed them properly. I know 1 or 2 guys have said that has solved their wobble problem, but I don't find it very easy to do a proper bed-in procedure due to traffic here and not being able to properly heat them up very easily. Just want to throw it out there though since this forum doesn't want to just give "throw it away and buy a new one" advice.

 

[ToyotaBrah]

Centric rotors > *

 

[JeepKiller]

Don't do the TBU to reduce wobble. I had wobbly rotors on my tundra brake less than 2 years after installing them. My pads were hardly worn but the rotors were wobbly. I could have turned them down, but no one around here seems to do that anymore, so I just bought new rotors for $30/ea.

If it's just wobble that worries you, then just replace the rotors. You're talking $80 versus $300+ unless you hit great sales.

I'm looking at about $180 for new rotors and drums from Advanced Auto. Is this too much?

 

[JeepKiller]

Seized caliper is a different story. He just has warped rotors.



Yeah, and drilled and slotted rotors have similar problems as well as they tend to crack if they were drilled and slotted rather than casted in slots and holes. Even name brand rotors aren't immune from warping though. My brembo's warped, now I am trying I think Raybestos.

Actually, to the OP, your rotors may not be warped, they may just be unevenly bedded. You can try going through a re-bedding procedure, or sand them off them re-bed them properly. I know 1 or 2 guys have said that has solved their wobble problem, but I don't find it very easy to do a proper bed-in procedure due to traffic here and not being able to properly heat them up very easily. Just want to throw it out there though since this forum doesn't want to just give "throw it away and buy a new one" advice.

Are you referring to speeding up to around 60 mph then braking firmly? Because I've done that and it hasn't worked.

 

[jgue467]

That procedure may vary by manufacturer? Mine called for 10 repetitions of: 60 to 30 (quick slow downs) and then back to 60 to repeat. Then 5 repetitions of 30 to zero (moderate). Not sure it made a diff but i did it....

 

[soundmanlpte]

Tundra brake upgrade is fairly expensive. Especially if you have 15" wheels like me. I had the same issues. If you're not towing, just get brand new pads AND Rotors. Make sure you get high quality rotors and ceramic pads. Order them online and it will cost you $150 tops. I have used the Advance Auto Wherever pads and rotors which much success. The O-Reilly ones didn't work for me.

Also, re-calibrating your rear drums may help. Pull the parking brake over and over until it only clicks 5-8 times to set fully. Then drive in reverse around 30 mph and do hard stops 5 or so times. Replacing them couldn't hurt either...

 

[BrianSD_42]

I would say that if you are lifted then do some type of brake upgrade because the lift changes the braking dynamics and I think you will find you are more likely to have the wobble/warp come back sooner than later.

If you are still stock then consider just replacing with stock.

I actually have Brembo drilled & slotted with performance pads (I don't know the name) and it has worked great. A big improvement over factory braking and I was able to keep the factory calipers, which BTW are still working fine at 230K miles.

 

[Unner]

I've also got warped rotors on mine and would like to fix it.

What are everyone's thoughts on the Wagner ThermoQuiet Rotors and Pads from Advanced auto? With the online coupon codes they have they can be had for well under $100.

Anyone here use the Wagner ThermoQuiet shoes also? I remember that my shoes looked like they would need replacing soon when I changed the rear axle seal and bearing a few months ago.

 

[Panda96]

Had my warped rotors machined down today and it brakes like a new vehicle. Next go round I'll need new ones though, they're at their max tolerance for machining. Cost me $56.

 

[nissanh]

Buy OEM pads from the dealer. All other brands (even with premium label) are all crap. Rotors can be any brand but don't turn the rotors because the quality of turning depends on the tech operating the machine. You'll save like $10 per rotor by turning. Get all new.

 

[allwheeldrive]

I have the thermo quiet shoes on my truck, and they've been good. No noise at all

 

[nissanh]

I have the thermo quiet shoes on my truck, and they've been good. No noise at all

It is not only noise, the effort/force you have to apply on the brake paddle to stop the truck. OEM got a special material that has a better friction so with less force, you can stop the truck.

 

[ToyotaBrah]

I did the Tundra brake upgrade a few weeks ago only because I got an awesome deal on 13WL calipers and rotors. The stock non-rusted calipers (bought it from the NW) were fully functional, and the previous owner just installed new Toyota brake pads on them that have less than 1000 miles service. They now reside in a box in the garage collecting dust, and I have no use for them anymore. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I'm looking at about $180 for new rotors and drums from Advanced Auto. Is this too much?

Yeah, way too much, that's $90/pr. You can get cheaper online, and for decent brands too.

Are you referring to speeding up to around 60 mph then braking firmly? Because I've done that and it hasn't worked.

Yeah, there's a procedure of doing that about 10 times in a row to heat up the rotors good and hot, then as I heard it, you then do 5-10 slow gradual brakes from 60 down to 10 (not quite the same as soulman described, in fact I think it's important not to come to a stop while the brakes re so hot like that because that can cause uneven bedding. I find this hard to do because I don't have un-travelled 60MPH roads around me, and I do have very active cops that wont care that I'm trying to maintain my brakes properly, or that no one is around and therefore it isn't dangerous to be driving erratically on a public road. I mean why use reason when they can just give me a ticket and get more money for their department.

Tundra brake upgrade is fairly expensive. Especially if you have 15" wheels like me. I had the same issues. If you're not towing, just get brand new pads AND Rotors. Make sure you get high quality rotors and ceramic pads. Order them online and it will cost you $150 tops. I have used the Advance Auto Wherever pads and rotors which much success. The O-Reilly ones didn't work for me.

Also, re-calibrating your rear drums may help. Pull the parking brake over and over until it only clicks 5-8 times to set fully. Then drive in reverse around 30 mph and do hard stops 5 or so times. Replacing them couldn't hurt either...

Good point, if you have the smaller wheels, then you have to add the cost of new wheels and swapping tires. I get them from Amazon for much less than I can get them from autozone or advance, unless perhaps if you use one of the advance online 40% off coupons.

The ebrake thing has never worked for me, and my e-brake always corrodes and gets stuck.

Also, reversing at 30mph is a terrible idea. Nobody do that. You can tighten them up by doing it at low speed. You have to basically pump the brakes anyway as you won't get more than a click or 2 each time. But either way, 30MPH is way too fast to be going in reverse.