Won't go into neutral (automatic)

grokglock

New member
Where ca I begin to troubleshoot this? My transmission is struggling to reverse and now I've realized it won't go into neutral. In neutral it crawls forward real slow.
 
Register to hide this ad
This is a total shot in the dark but it could be the linkage underneath the truck. It's basically just a flat metal bar(arm) with a bolt attached to it. It could be loose. Also, how are the shift bushings?
 
This is a total shot in the dark but it could be the linkage underneath the truck. It's basically just a flat metal bar(arm) with a bolt attached to it. It could be loose. Also, how are the shift bushings?

My bushings are sloppy AF. The linkage underneath I haven't looked at but I'll need to look into that today. Thanks.Thanks
 
I am wondering if it could be the transmission solenoids. I do have a code for that right now but eveything else seemed to be working fine so I ignored it.
 
It wouldn't be solenoids unless there was a problem with shifting through gears while in "D".

Shifting into Park/Neutral/Reverse is purely a mechanical thing and doesn't involve any shift solenoids.

I would check your fluid and the shift linkage first.

BTW, what year is your truck and how many miles? When was the fluid last changed? The fact that you have a code for a solenoid means you may have a few problems with your tranny.
 
Last edited:
It wouldn't be solenoids unless there was a problem with shifting through gears while in "D".

Shifting into Park/Neutral/Reverse is purely a mechanical thing and doesn't involve any shift solenoids.

I would check your fluid and the shift linkage first.

BTW, what year is your truck and how many miles? When was the fluid last changed? The fact that you have a code for a solenoid means you may have a few problems with your tranny.


Fluid hasnt been changed in at least 5 years. My linkage looks bad. Here's a video.

YouTube
 
Looks like you found your shifting problem. Fix the loose linkage and plan on changing your fluid since it's due anyways.

You should consider dropping your pan and inspect/test your solenoids since you said you have a code for them. There are three tests per the FSM, a 12v test to see if the solenoid opens/closes, an ohm test and a pressure test.

Or you can just replace all of the solenoids or at least the one that is throwing the code. Might as well change out the "filter" while you are in there and fill her back up with some good fluid (I like Valvoline max life synthetic ATF).
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top