Won't start - one click

[octanejunkie]

I have to soak my terminal clamps in a baking soda solution 2 or 3 times a year. I chock that up to a probable parasitic drain somewhere, and its mostly the negative cable. Maybe its time to replace that cable and clamp.

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[UnderFire]

Usually the single click is caused by weak factory grounds getting corroded over time. Best practice is to replace everything with copper 4 gauge wire, it's a pretty easy process, battery to body, battery to engine block and engine block to frame is all you need to worry about.

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[octanejunkie]

Usually the single click is caused by weak factory grounds getting corroded over time. Best practice is to replace everything with copper 4 gauge wire, it's a pretty easy process, battery to body, battery to engine block and engine block to frame is all you need to worry about.

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I don't have the one-click no-start issue at all, but 4ga welding wire on amazon is $16 for 10' - I might pickup a length of it and upgrade my neg cable this weekend.

Should I replace the battery terminal also or just get 4ga lug connectors and connect in to it replacing the stock wire?

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[TejasRunner01]

Did it start and run since you changed the starter? Do you have lights on the dash lit up? If so then your battery is good.

If the battery is truly good and the starter is good, then the start no matter what is going to spin. I imagine the one click that you hear is a relay.

I agree check for continuity of wires around the battery terminal, check fuses, replace relays are all the first steps before considering that the starter is bad (which isn't impossible)

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[RAD4Runner]

...Just changed the starter and had battery checked to be good. ...just get one click and nothing happens....

A problem well-stated is a problem almost solved.
Exactly what clicks?
Starter relay? Starter solenoid?

It's a new starter, but did you verify it is really good? Simple to do:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...4runners-mods-restoration-14.html#post2716806

Battery checked good, but even if you trust the shop that did it, did you verify?
What voltage do you read at battery post without load?
What voltage do you get at battery post with high beams on?

For all electrical problems, always check for good connection / absence of corrosion like mentioned above. ALL connections, not just the cliched "check ground".
All should have bare, shiny metal tightly contacting bare, shiny metal.
From battery posts to connector to condition of terminal crimp, to starter solenoid screw terminal. From battery post to thick ground wire to block. There could be corrosion inside the crimp even if outside looks shiny, that's why for connections near battery I prefer to crimp, solder to fill the voids, seal with liquid electrical tape, then heat-shrink.

The other cliched "big-3 upgrade" while nice is not not necessary IF you have good, clean connections. My 31-year old first-gen has stock wiring, but it cranks and starts like "Ta-Da-VROOM!" If a "big 3 upgrade" fixes an electrical issue, it's because the new wires replaced old ones with hidden corrosion, and the replacement process had the collateral benefit of cleaning the connection surfaces.

 

[octanejunkie]

The other cliched "big-3 upgrade" while nice is not not necessary IF you have good, clean connections. My 31-year old first-gen has stock wiring, but it cranks and starts like "Ta-Da-VROOM!" If a "big 3 upgrade" fixes an electrical issue, it's because the new wires replaced old ones with hidden corrosion, and the replacement process had the collateral benefit of cleaning the connection surfaces.

THIS IS :first:
Well said, [MENTION=80771]RAD4Runner[/MENTION]

There is A LOT to be said for good, resistance-free electrical wiring. The Chevy in my signature sucked ass until I threw a Painless harness in it, now, no electrical issues at all and it rocks. Our trucks are nearing 20 years old and electrical insulation degrades, dries, cracks and allows corrosion to occur invisibly over time. Eventually these trucks will need new wire harnesses - it's just a matter of time.

I am going to refresh my primary battery cables next, not a Big-3, but a new 3, because it makes sense.

 

[csp]

What voltage do you read at battery post without load?
What voltage do you get at battery post with high beams on?

Voltage isn't an indicator of battery condition. You have to know the amperage under load to determine if a battery is good or not.

NHNgo89, how did the battery test "good"?? Load test or what?

 

[RAD4Runner]

I said "What voltage do you get at battery post with high beams on?"
That is not perfect, but since Nhngo89 could not start his truck in order to take it to the store for testing, it is a quick DIY load-test that will give one an idea of condition of battery, and as sanity check because some people at the parts store may not know what they are doing, or want you to buy things you don't really need.
A battery that holds 10V or more with highbeams on should be able to crank starter and run electronics.

 

[whyzee125]

It's your starter contacts. I got mine from the dealer for around $17. The sucky part is removing the starter, replacing the contacts once it's out is gravy. Mine, too, in the beginning stages would always start up when on a charger. Try repeatedly clicking it over. For several months mine would take 10-15 clicks then would start. Had one day of warning where it took me about 5 minutes and then wouldn't start after that. It would usually start up easier on a charger though.

 

[SR5_4Runner]

Was this resolved? If so how was it fixed?