swapped_mini
New member
Awesome! Glad it worked for you!
Working out some bugs after a HG job
- Thread starter sean.turner.1238
- Start date
sean.turner.1238
New member
It's still blowing a shit ton of coolant out the pipe though. It was a few minutes of dense white clouds. This was after a minute or so it cleared up a bit. But when I revved the engine it dumped out more even heavier
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swapped_mini
New member
Someone mentioned it earlier, but double check the coolant and air hoses that go to the Idle Air Control valve, you can run coolant into the motor through the intake that way. Be careful because this can hydrolock your motor.
If this is the case, you can pull the plugs and crank the motor over to make sure there isn't enough coolant in the cylinders to cause problems.
If this is the case, you can pull the plugs and crank the motor over to make sure there isn't enough coolant in the cylinders to cause problems.
sean.turner.1238
New member
Sorry to keep changing the title but it feels like the purpose of this thread keeps changing. I think this one will stick though since I seem to have quite a few things to work out. First and foremost, I have this gosh darn awful screaming coming from one of my belts. (BTW i have successfully taken the truck around the block after getting everything back together). I think it could be my alternator because it's acting a little funny. When I accelerate, my gauge cluster and headlights get brighter and then they dim again after I take my foot off the pedal. Is this normal? Also, the belt will scream for about a minute and then it will be completely silent for a minute... I'm sure my neighbors loved me.
Other things left to do
-Replace coolant temp switch that I broke upon reassembly (this thing is a PITA)
-Bleed brakes
-Cooling system flush
-Oil change
-New cotter pins for axle nut retainers
-New axle nut dust covers (I obliterated one of them)
-Other stuff I can't remember ATM
I will include more pics soon I know you guys love pics
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Other things left to do
-Replace coolant temp switch that I broke upon reassembly (this thing is a PITA)
-Bleed brakes
-Cooling system flush
-Oil change
-New cotter pins for axle nut retainers
-New axle nut dust covers (I obliterated one of them)
-Other stuff I can't remember ATM
I will include more pics soon I know you guys love pics
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sean.turner.1238
New member
Tightened up my alternator and the squeaking literally immediately went away. Ta daaa
I was able to twist the belt over 180 degrees so I tightened it until it was only about 90 degrees.
Still waiting on my coolant temp switch thingy to come in the mail. I was worried that that wouldn't allow the coolant to flow properly, but it seems like all that switch does is relay the temp to the gauge cluster. Coolant seems to be flowing just fine. So I gotta replace that and put in a few cotter pins. Then I want to do a thorough fluid flush/change. Gonna do coolant, oil, trans oil, and both diffs. I still need to recharge my AC system too as I discharged it when disassembling everything. Anybody know if I can just use the cans you can buy at auto parts stores for this? Or should I take it to a shop?
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I was able to twist the belt over 180 degrees so I tightened it until it was only about 90 degrees.
Still waiting on my coolant temp switch thingy to come in the mail. I was worried that that wouldn't allow the coolant to flow properly, but it seems like all that switch does is relay the temp to the gauge cluster. Coolant seems to be flowing just fine. So I gotta replace that and put in a few cotter pins. Then I want to do a thorough fluid flush/change. Gonna do coolant, oil, trans oil, and both diffs. I still need to recharge my AC system too as I discharged it when disassembling everything. Anybody know if I can just use the cans you can buy at auto parts stores for this? Or should I take it to a shop?
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swapped_mini
New member
Glad you got it going! There are two temp senders, one at the front of the intake and one at the rear. The one at the rear is for the gauge and the one at the front is for the computer if I remember right. It won't run right without the one for the computer hooked up because it uses this one to know when the motor is cold and hot, I am not sure if it would stay in high idle without it hooked up? It won't affect coolant flow because that is regulated by the thermostat which is mechanical. Either way sounds like you will have a new one soon.
sean.turner.1238
New member
Right. It's the rear one. Still not sure how to get at it. I may ended up just removing the intake plenum and moving the wire harness
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sean.turner.1238
New member
She's going and she's going strong. Got a sizable oil leak though.
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sean.turner.1238
New member
I need some help from you guys... I took out my engine oil dipstick and this be the new look of it. I tried to bend it back and it is now a two-piece dipstick. I need to find the part number for it. I've looked around and all I can find are universal fit ones and the toyota parts websites with the really awful diagram pictures where I can't tell what I'm looking at. Anybody?
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heat
Member
If you opened up the ac system you will need to pull a vacuum on the ac system before charging. It's easiest to just take it somewhere to do the whole process. I'd recommend changing the drier out before recharging the system since you had it open for more than 24 hours.
sean.turner.1238
New member
sean.turner.1238
New member
Okay. How much would something like that cost?
And is this the drier you're talking about?
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That's the drier. I can't tell you because it varies vastly based on location. I would try calling around and asking. I don't remember how much it takes, but it shouldn't be more than 2 lbs of R134 refrigerant.Okay. How much would something like that cost?
And is this the drier you're talking about?
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calimobber
Member
I just replaced my A/C condenser and drier.
I just bought the vacuum pump and gauges on amazon for recharing(followed Chrisfix on youtube). I think everything including tools and new parts was less than $200.
It requires 20oz of R134a. 2 $6 cans at autozone was $12 for me.
I just bought the vacuum pump and gauges on amazon for recharing(followed Chrisfix on youtube). I think everything including tools and new parts was less than $200.
It requires 20oz of R134a. 2 $6 cans at autozone was $12 for me.
The gauges and vac pump is also part of the loaner tool programs at most auto parts stores if you don’t feel like building up your collection. It’s actually very easy to do.
If all you’re doing is replacing the drier, be sure to use plain old r134 cans and not the ones mixed with oil or any other crap. If the old dryer has a bunch of oil in it, you can put a similar amount back in the new one before assembly to keep the total system volume the same. A bit extra if a noticeable amount came out when you discharged.
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If all you’re doing is replacing the drier, be sure to use plain old r134 cans and not the ones mixed with oil or any other crap. If the old dryer has a bunch of oil in it, you can put a similar amount back in the new one before assembly to keep the total system volume the same. A bit extra if a noticeable amount came out when you discharged.
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sean.turner.1238
New member
How can I tell if there is oil in the old one? I watched the Chrisfix tutorial but I'd rather not spend the money on a tool I'll use so rarely
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19963.4lsr5
New member
Remove the old one and measure how much oil drains out. Then add that much oil back into your system.
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