Would you replace these shoes & what special tools are needed for brake drum work?

[mom]

What other special tools are needed for a proper Toyota 4Runner rear brake drum DIY?

The rear drum brakes on my 1997 4Runner with 133K miles have never been serviced.

This weekend, after replacing the front rotors & pads, I pulled a drum using tools I had on hand (e.g., I used SAE bolts instead of the metric 8x1.25 to get the drum off). Once the drum was off, I instantly realized I needed a few special tools to perform a proper rear brake inspection & repair - so I put the drum back on and readjusted the parking brake back to where it was.

Having essentially accomplished nothing, I started gathering the proper tools to perform a decent rear brake inspection and R&R.

I ask those of you who have done your drum brakes before, what other special tools are needed other than those I've gathered ahead of time below?

EDIT:
- Based on responses below, I need to add:

• 0.016" to 0.031" feeler gauges (for bellcrank adjustment)
• sidecutters (aka diagonal pliers) to cut springs
• brake cleaner & a dust mask (for dust & grime)
• hub brush & sandpaper (to remove drums easier)
• wire brush (to clean the backing plate)
• 5.3oz. Dynatex # 49593 silicone grease ($8@Ryder Fleet Products)
• brake adjuster tool & a brake pic tool (as per this PDF)
• zip tie (to hold the cylinder in if the brakes are out for a while)
  

Printouts:
- Mike Thompson Toyota rear brake DIY
- Toyota bellcrank parking brake adjustment DIY
- Tundra rear brake tutorial
- 99 FSM brake section & (better) 2002 FSM brake section
- Toyota rear drum brake DIY video

 

[Singtoe]

You need a wire brush and some brake clean.


No other tools need.


I would replace the brake shoes. I would also replace the brake adjuster while your there.

Adjust the shoes so that there is some drag and you should be good to go.

 

[Baja Runner]

With any drum brakes its all about finding a way to get the main spring on and off without killing yourself. No special tools required but its nice to have the right tools to make it easier obviously! Looks like you'll be good with what you got.

I'd recommend buying the OEM brake shoe kit as it comes with new hardware.

If you notice any oil on the rear shoes it's time to replace the rear axle seal which can be done in about 30 minutes and the part is about $10 from Toyota.

 

[agloukhoff]

Personally, I never remove the old springs. I just CUT them and repalce them. It's MUCH easier that way. New springs are around $10 for both sides.

If it's your first time, take a picture of where all the springs go. It's pretty easy to hook things up wrong and end up with brakes that adjust way too tight and never fully retract. Ask me how I know.

It really helps to have 2 people to put the springs on. One to hold the shoes in place and one to pull the spring from one shoe to the other. Doing it alone sucks because as you pull on the spring, it pushes on the cylinder and pushes the other shoe AWAY from you.

To answer your question: Yes. I would absolutley replace them. It's not hard.

 

[nevada]

unless you're planning a big trip, or are having trouble with the brakes, i wouldnt change them yet.

there is still quite a bit of life there. and if you're going to end up changing them yourself anyway, you might as well use what you can. adjust them up correctly, and they'll last quite a while still.

i would recommend that you have the drums resurfaced when you do decide to change the shoes.

and the only other tool i would add, is some sidecutters. they are very handy for working with springs.

also, peel the boot back on the wheel cylinder, if there is any moisture, its leaking, and should be replaced.

 

[TheDurk]

I did my drums with no special tools. My go to for the springs was these:

that I had in my tool box. For my second drum job, on my son's Hyundai, I bought one of them fancy spring pliers. After futzing with it, I threw it in the useless tools box and went back to the needle-nose vise-grips. It lets you grab the end of the spring and maneuver it in and out of the hole quite easily. It does take some hand strength, but I've got that.

Aside from those, yes on the grease, cleaner and feeler gauge--should have those anyway.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah, I think all I used was needle nosed pliers to handle the springs (vise-grip needle nose pliers like the durk shows would have been better), and a screwdriver to adjust the star wheel. Other than that, it's just sockets for the bolts.

If you are disassembling and fixing up the parking brake/bellcrack, then any silicone grease is fine, you don't have to get the one they mentioned in that write-up. I got some from autozone. Honestly, regular grease would probably be fine there too, as long as it's compatible with the rubber boot.

You can get a brake hardware kit from advance auto for about $10-15 that has all new springs, washers, c-clips, etc that you will need for both sides. No need to get OEM for any of that.