Wrenches don't fit 10 mm brake flare nuts

[Mark_BC]

This must be a common issue. I've tried 4 different 10 mm wrenches, including a crows foot, and none will fit the bleeder on the rear brakes. They all round it off. The only thing that will fit is my 10 mm impact socket. I was able to loosen it with this so that it bleeds fluid when I depress the brake, but by definition I can't put a hose on it if there is a socket on it. Therefore, when I let my foot off the brake it will suck air back in and I won't have time to take off the hose and put the socket on to tighten it up.

The other wrenches are so loose that even with the bleeder loosened so that I can bleed fluid from it, they will still round it off without moving it!!! How does something like this happen in industry???

 

[wake_rider]

https://m.harborfreight.com/5-pc-me...t-68866.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

You need a flare nut wrench.

 

[OffRoadGuy]

This must be a common issue. I've tried 4 different 10 mm wrenches, including a crows foot, and none will fit the bleeder on the rear brakes.
The other wrenches are so loose that even with the bleeder loosened so that I can bleed fluid from it, they will still round it off without moving it!!! How does something like this happen in industry???

Its a semi special called a flare nut wrench. They look like this and its made for brake bleeding. Also works good as a box end wrench

 

[Scramble]

You need a flare nut wrench. I bought this set from Tekton for my axle swap. Tekton are the best tools for the money. It's all I buy now.
Someone needs to make a ratcheting flare nut wrench & they'd be rich!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUJOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[cstmg8]

You need a flare nut wrench. I bought this set from Tekton for my axle swap. Tekton are the best tools for the money. It's all I buy now.
Someone needs to make a ratcheting flare nut wrench & they'd be rich!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUJOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Second this, tekton is great. If I were you, I'd get some speed bleeders. They are basically brake bleeder screws with a check valve. Easy one man bleeding.

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[alumarine]

I don't see why you need flare nut wrench for the bleeder screw.
On brake or fuel lines yes. Not on bleeder screws.

Those bleeder screws rust in there good.
You can get a replacement at any parts store.

I put a bit of never seize on them and use a good quality closed end wrench.
They do not need to be super tight to seal properly.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The last person overtightened them or they rusted in place from lack of use. A 6pt box end wrench is the best.


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[meRockboost]

Don't bother with special tools if it's already rounded, use vice grip pliers. Otherwise when you do replace yes you should use the nut wrenches, I got a 10mm one at lowes for like $4

 

[Mark_BC]

Well I found the set of claw foot wrenches (only the end pieces that go onto a ratchet) in my pile o' junk (my life is a messy disaster right now) and used that one to tighten them up, amazing how easy it is with a wrench that fits properly.

The specific claw foot wrench I bought for this ($20 for 3) was the loosest of all the wrenches. So... three 10 mm open ended wrenches and one 10 mm claw foot wrench specifically made for this wouldn't fit and rounded them off. One claw foot head you put in the ratchet, and one impact socket head did fit. Soooo... the only tools that fit were from.... HARBOR FREIGHT. Thank you, HF.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-38-in-metric-crowfoot-flare-nut-wrench-set-68999.html

Price does not necessarily equal quality...

I was by myself so I pumped the brake pedal and fluid would come out good, then I let go of the pedal and it would suck back up. But then when suction went away it would start dribbling back out so I assume this dribbling got rid of any air that got sucked back in.

It seems to work, the pedal feels nice and hard and I guess that's all that matters right?

Adjusted the brakes on the new axle and everything works well. Just gotta put some new fluid in the diff and take er out on the highway to make sure everything is good.

 

[thegipper]

You need two things:
New bleeders
10mm flare nut wrench

Piece of cake

 

[Mark_BC]

The bleeders I didn't round off because I could use the socket. Some of the flare nuts I rounded off and you can't replace those without replacing the whole line.

 

[kolelt]

Put some heat on them *****es and replace the bleeders

 

[Mark_BC]

Moral of the story: get these things for $12 and you're good to go:

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-3...set-68999.html

 

[gamefreakgc]

I just use a 10 mm deep socket to break them loose, then a wrench to open/close. Easy peasy. But I don't have rust.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I just use a 10 mm deep socket to break them loose, then a wrench to open/close. Easy peasy. But I don't have rust.

^^THIS I was hoping someone would write this obvious procedure, and just to further clarify, use a six-point socket. I would replace with speed bleeders also. They are the Shiznit.

One last thing. Be careful when you turn the bleeder as if you are rusty, the line could bind with the bleeder and twist the line when you turn it.

 

[alumarine]

The title is misleading.

"Wrenches don't fit 10 mm brake flare nuts"

They are not flare nuts they are bleeder screws.

There are no brake lines attached to them.

You do not need to slip a wrench over a line to get to the fitting.

They are no different than loosening any other possibly rusty, too tight fastener. Use the wrench or socket that gives you the best chance of loosening it.

When tightening only go to 8 ft lbs if you use a torque wrench.

You would not use a flare wrench on a head bolt or other bolt so why would you use one on a bleeder screw????

 

[Mark_BC]

The title is misleading.

"Wrenches don't fit 10 mm brake flare nuts"

They are not flare nuts they are bleeder screws.

There are no brake lines attached to them.

You do not need to slip a wrench over a line to get to the fitting.

They are no different than loosening any other possibly rusty, too tight fastener. Use the wrench or socket that gives you the best chance of loosening it.

When tightening only go to 8 ft lbs if you use a torque wrench.

You would not use a flare wrench on a head bolt or other bolt so why would you use one on a bleeder screw????

I needed to loosen the flare nuts on the brake lines which I was swapping and you can't put a socket on those because of the brake line. Then I had to loosen the bleeders to bleed the lines.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

^^THIS I was hoping someone would write this obvious procedure, and just to further clarify, use a six-point socket. I would replace with speed bleeders also. They are the Shiznit.



One last thing. Be careful when you turn the bleeder as if you are rusty, the line could bind with the bleeder and twist the line when you turn it.

The bleeder is a separate item than the line going into the wheel cylinder. And the problem with using a socket and ratchet is you won't know your twisting it off until it breaks because you can't see the bleeder. I'd only use a 1/4 drive ratchet on a bleeder. A 3/8 drive will make it feel like it's loosening up but you'll be twisting it off instead.


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[alumarine]

I needed to loosen the flare nuts on the brake lines which I was swapping and you can't put a socket on those because of the brake line. Then I had to loosen the bleeders to bleed the lines.

I don't think you mentioned that part.
I think you only mentioned bleed screws.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

The bleeder is a separate item than the line going into the wheel cylinder. And the problem with using a socket and ratchet is you won't know your twisting it off until it breaks because you can't see the bleeder. I'd only use a 1/4 drive ratchet on a bleeder. A 3/8 drive will make it feel like it's loosening up but you'll be twisting it off instead.


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Hey you're right, I didn't put the title together with the context, but when I read that he was messing up his lines too I just assumed (correctly) he was having issues with both. I just misspoke by combining the bleeder with the flare nut. Sorry 'bout that. And yes 1/4" drive is better but if it's not going to come out then it's just going to break not matter what tool you use. You then just need to replace the wheel cylinder. No biggie.