My 06' has similar mileage, I'm at 89k and my Xreas seems to be fine, which has me thinking if I should just get a Daystar 2.5/1.5 while it's fine and then upgrade down the line when the shocks actually fail.
XREAS suspension
- Thread starter 084runner480
- Start date
My 06' has similar mileage, I'm at 89k and my Xreas seems to be fine, which has me thinking if I should just get a Daystar 2.5/1.5 while it's fine and then upgrade down the line when the shocks actually fail.
That's been my approach, and I'm pretty happy so far. I don't use my '06 for real hard-core offroading (that's what my '94 is for), but the spacer lift looks good, rides good, and lets me do 4 and below rated trails with no issues.
084runner480
New member
I'll be installing aftermarket UCA's to get more caster for the truck. One of the unknowns is tire clearance.
I've been warned that after I install the UCA's and get more caster that they may not fit and scrub.
My question is: Does anyone know about how far I fan expect the tire to move backwards?
These are the two options I'm considering:
JBA UCA, non adjustable, has +1.2 degree of caster built into them.
SPC UCA, adjustable, has +1 degree of caster built into them.
Current caster adjustment is set at +2.7 and +2.8
I believe I need approximately 1 more positive degree. I have no idea how much that would move the wheel, in terms of inches backwards. Its currently about .5 inches of clearance with the wheel turned out in the most restrictive position.
I know this is a difficult question with a lot of variables, just trying to minimize mistakes. Thanks
I've been warned that after I install the UCA's and get more caster that they may not fit and scrub.
My question is: Does anyone know about how far I fan expect the tire to move backwards?
These are the two options I'm considering:
JBA UCA, non adjustable, has +1.2 degree of caster built into them.
SPC UCA, adjustable, has +1 degree of caster built into them.
Current caster adjustment is set at +2.7 and +2.8
I believe I need approximately 1 more positive degree. I have no idea how much that would move the wheel, in terms of inches backwards. Its currently about .5 inches of clearance with the wheel turned out in the most restrictive position.
I know this is a difficult question with a lot of variables, just trying to minimize mistakes. Thanks
Attachments
Based on a roughly 18 inch distance between the lower ball joint and the upper ball joint, 1 deg extra of caster will move the UBJ back about .3". The wheel itself will move back about 1/2 of that, so about .15 inches for that 1 deg extra caster.
Keep in mind, though, your tech may want to put the camber back closer to where it should be, which could also move your wheel back a bit, maybe another .15 to .2". You're going to be close to using up all of your .5" of extra space, but it could work.
Keep in mind, though, your tech may want to put the camber back closer to where it should be, which could also move your wheel back a bit, maybe another .15 to .2". You're going to be close to using up all of your .5" of extra space, but it could work.
Last edited:
Even with a spacer upgrade, it's probably best to go with an aftermarket UCA?
If so then, at least doing the spacers will allow me to do a nice UCA, so I don't have to deal with alignment issue.
These Rokmen seem to be pretty nice... also quite expensive.
https://wheelersoffroad.com/product...-229844/rokmen-pro-series-upper-control-arms/
The JBA's and SPC's (what I have) are both available for about $450, so quite a bit less. I'm happy with the SPC's, and I hear good things about the JBA's as well.
I know nothing about the Rokmens, or why they are $300 better than those I've mentioned. Looks like from the picture that they have a more sophisticated ball joint mechanism, which probably translates into better articulation and more ruggedness for hardcore wheeling. Not sure it's worth it for your (or my) use model.
I know nothing about the Rokmens, or why they are $300 better than those I've mentioned. Looks like from the picture that they have a more sophisticated ball joint mechanism, which probably translates into better articulation and more ruggedness for hardcore wheeling. Not sure it's worth it for your (or my) use model.
084runner480
New member
I'm leaning towards the JBA's just because they're keeping things simple, (no adjustment).
I don't want to confuse the alignment tech with too many adjustments, which apparently is easy to do. Plus, less throngs to move out of adjustment or go wrong on install.
SPC has told me the benefit of having upper adjustability allows you to manipulate the upper and lower settings to get the tire fit just right.
Seems like the JBA's will probably work. Thanks for the math
I don't want to confuse the alignment tech with too many adjustments, which apparently is easy to do. Plus, less throngs to move out of adjustment or go wrong on install.
SPC has told me the benefit of having upper adjustability allows you to manipulate the upper and lower settings to get the tire fit just right.
Seems like the JBA's will probably work. Thanks for the math
If your LCA adjustments are working freely, and it sounds like they are, then I think the JBA's are indeed a simpler approach. My LCA bolts are completely frozen, so no adjustment there. Using the SPC's allowed me to get the alignment where I wanted it without having to go through the pain of sawing out the frozen LCA bolts and replacing the lower bushings. I'm sure eventually I'll have to do that anyway, but this allows me to put that off for a few years.
I just looked at the JBA arms and they do look quite nice. And a simpler approach in this application/use seems like the right fit. I agree with the approach of using something with less adjustment when you don't really need it... could complicate things without reason.
JBA + Daystar may be my approach for now. When XREAS blows then maybe I'll do 6112/Icon 2.0
JBA + Daystar may be my approach for now. When XREAS blows then maybe I'll do 6112/Icon 2.0
084runner480
New member
you mentioned that your LCA bolts are frozen, which got me thinking. How long can I expect the 4Runner to be my daily driver?
She has 175k. I haven't really had to do much maintenance. Besides oil changes, both front wheel bearings went bad, and one of the front brake calipers seized. That's it, I've upgraded a few things but only for better performance.
Now the truck looks bad ass, and I know the wheels will probably give me 50k. Can I expect 250k, 300 even?
What's the trend for major component failure i.e., eng, xmns, transfer case? (Around this mileage)
I've noticed she's definitely a bit more sluggish and fuel efficiency isn't where it used to be.
She has 175k. I haven't really had to do much maintenance. Besides oil changes, both front wheel bearings went bad, and one of the front brake calipers seized. That's it, I've upgraded a few things but only for better performance.
Now the truck looks bad ass, and I know the wheels will probably give me 50k. Can I expect 250k, 300 even?
What's the trend for major component failure i.e., eng, xmns, transfer case? (Around this mileage)
I've noticed she's definitely a bit more sluggish and fuel efficiency isn't where it used to be.
It should run a while yet. My daughter has an '04 with 230,000 on it and it's their "good" car, the one they trust for long trips with two toddlers. You just have to keep up with the maintenance and pay attention to odd sounds and other indicators that signal "attention needed." The major drive train components (engine, tranny, tcase, diffs) will last indefinitely unless you have a lubrication failure (run dry, contamination, etc.)
I'm planning on at least 250K, and hopefully 300K on my '06. My '94 is running strong at 220K, and my son has 290K on his '97. Hopefully you too have a lot of good miles left yet.
You might want to do a good tune-up. Plugs, wires, clean the injectors, stuff like that.
I'm planning on at least 250K, and hopefully 300K on my '06. My '94 is running strong at 220K, and my son has 290K on his '97. Hopefully you too have a lot of good miles left yet.
You might want to do a good tune-up. Plugs, wires, clean the injectors, stuff like that.
084runner480
New member
Good pointers on page 4 and 5. If you are going to install a new system there are disconnect points in the lines at check valves. Removal may be easier than install and you may have to get creative with the fronts installation.
I don't know if this helps you man but I really regret putting the bilstiens in. The ride is so annoying....anyone want a deal on some 5100's?
And, if you lift it you may loose caster like mine. Then be forced to get UCA's.
Get a lift they said
It be fun they said
I don't know if this helps you man but I really regret putting the bilstiens in. The ride is so annoying....anyone want a deal on some 5100's?
And, if you lift it you may loose caster like mine. Then be forced to get UCA's.
Get a lift they said
It be fun they said
JustinCG
New member
My 05' has 135K now and its almost time to replace it. It's starting to leak and my rear shocks are busted up. just cant afford to replace right now.
I currently have the 2.5/1.5 daystar lift and it is just fine.
With daystar 2.5/1.5 lift, it's still good to get UCA right?
JeratBP
Member
My '05 Sport has almost 120k miles, and I'd like to put a lift on it. I've got my decision down to 3 options:
Wheelers T1/T12 with Bilstein 5100's
OME's - 885 / 895 with driver side trim packer
Toytec 3" lift
Here's a YouTube link for removing the XREAS:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAskv_pSmS0
Wheelers T1/T12 with Bilstein 5100's
OME's - 885 / 895 with driver side trim packer
Toytec 3" lift
Here's a YouTube link for removing the XREAS:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAskv_pSmS0
jdubb2386
New member
Just replaced my OEM XREAS at 160k miles. They weren't leaking that I could find but I was getting a progressively more bouncy and soft ride. I replaced with OME 883/895e combo and am loving it so far. There is a huge difference in ride quality and stiffness. OME rear coils are overly stiff but with the amount of trailering and gear hauling I do it is worth it.
DT04R
New member
Sure, send them my way
Unless I find out otherwise, I think I'm going to wind up with the [bolded] T1/T12 + 5100s, replacing a blown out X-REAS in an '08 (V8/AWD/LTD), want mostly decent road manners, some light, infrequent hauling in the area of 200lbs, light off road (beach/intracoastal), looking for a little lift.
Last edited:
