XREAS taken out at 136k

Zadams31

New member
Rear shocks leaking what is the best option? is just taking out the system and doing a bilstein set up my best option to go with. Shop was thinking about just swapping out the shocks and capping off the system. Anyone have problems with suspension light doing that?
 
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You should replace front and rear.
Bilstein all the way around isn't too expensive.


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Can I get away with just replacing those and nothing else? How much we talking? I have a leveling kit on there as well so I want to keep my ride height or even gain an inch especially if anything is sagging
 
Bilsteins will let you retain ride height or even increase as they are adjustable in the front only.

Shouldnt need to do anything else.
 
If I have the leveling kit on there so I just buy the regular bilstein shocks? Can I use anything from the xreas system now as far as springs or struts etc?
 
Yes

If I have the leveling kit on there so I just buy the regular bilstein shocks? Can I use anything from the xreas system now as far as springs or struts etc?

you can use the springs but after 136k you realize a huge improvement in control/handling if you replace them along with the struts/shocks.
 
I would definitely replace all four springs... I replaced mine when i removed the xreas at 160kish miles. Huge improvement in handling.
 
Is it almost worth it to get the Toytec lift kit? I Have a leveling kit on there now but if I can get a little more height out of the lift kit and get all new shocks and springs that sounds a little better to me. I can ditch the spacers. What do you guys think still trying to save a little money.
 
Is it almost worth it to get the Toytec lift kit? I Have a leveling kit on there now but if I can get a little more height out of the lift kit and get all new shocks and springs that sounds a little better to me. I can ditch the spacers. What do you guys think still trying to save a little money.

I think it would depend on (1) which toytec lift kit you're referring to? (Toytec Boss (~$1300), Toytec Ultimate (~$1250), Toytec's Bilstein 3" (~$900).) and (2) what do you plan on doing with your t4r. If you're just going for nice ride and some lift then any would work, and should last a very long time. That said I haven't run any of these, only spent far too much time reading about them..

You can also piece together an OME kit for a little less with a toytec superflex coil in the rear.
 
You will be very happy with either the Rancho quick lift/rear springs or the toytec kit/rear springs. Just depends on how much you want to spend.
I did the toytec ulitmate with the OME 895-e rear springs and love it. Pulled out the xreas at 150k, now at 220k and still rides amazing.
 
If I did a lift it would be the one thats around $900. Right now I'm leaning on just doing the shocks and leaving everything else the same and going from there. Maybe I can get that level look Ive always wanted haha.
 
Any recommendations on which Bilstein shock or where to order them?

We have a Daystar poly lift 3/2 on our 05 Sport and the front tires are wearing/feathering along the out side edge. Tire shop says shocks and lift are causing it. So I was going to ditch xreas and the lift but would like to at least keep it level.

Tires are 265/70R17

Thanks
 
Curious are you doing any towing? Not sure why you would want to level anything out or change anything about ride height from stock if you aren't towing or wheeling.
 
I don't tow but I go off-roading some. I'm a hunter so anytime I go out its off-road mud and rocks and such. Also I'm in Md so getting through the snow is always fun.
 
Any recommendations on which Bilstein shock or where to order them?

We have a Daystar poly lift 3/2 on our 05 Sport and the front tires are wearing/feathering along the out side edge. Tire shop says shocks and lift are causing it. So I was going to ditch xreas and the lift but would like to at least keep it level.

Tires are 265/70R17

Thanks

Unless you've got some loose parts it's a lot more likely the tire wear you describe is caused by excessive toe-in or the camber is positive. Have the wheel alignment checked, or at least measure the toe with a tape measure. Should measure about 1/32" shorter across the front of the tire tread than across the back.

If the lift was put on without revisiting the alignment it's likely the wheels got toe-d in significantly, the camber moved positive (wheel is leaning out at the top), and the caster decreased. All consequences of the way the suspension is designed.

The toe setting is the worst offender for tire wear with camber a somewhat distant second. Caster affects steering stability but tire wear not so much.
 

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