Yes another 5100s and 890s thread. Need help with rear shocks

Ill have to try this. I don't really live in an area where I can easily find a spot to flex out the truck but ill locate something and report back with measurements. ill have the 2nd gen sway bar links on the rear and see if that gives me the articulation I'm looking for.

Where should this measurement be taken from? I'm assuming from underside the top shock mount to the bottom mount?

Keep in mind this is what im seeing for full compression/droop(see below). This seem about right to you? stock swaybar links still attached with the 0-2 inch 4runner 5100s
Yes, from the upper shock mount to the stud on the axle. If you have an offroad park or shop in the area they might have an RTI ramp which would be helpful. If practical I would remove both rear shocks for testing and have a competent friend drive up a ramp/ditch/rock mound/neighbor's mustang/etc while I watch for binding or the coil about to unseat.

Rear sway bar isn't really stiff enough to limit rear flex, but if you have a rear e-locker the sway bar can contact the e-locker motor/actuator.
 
Yes, from the upper shock mount to the stud on the axle. If you have an offroad park or shop in the area they might have an RTI ramp which would be helpful. If practical I would remove both rear shocks for testing and have a competent friend drive up a ramp/ditch/rock mound/neighbor's mustang/etc while I watch for binding or the coil about to unseat.

Rear sway bar isn't really stiff enough to limit rear flex, but if you have a rear e-locker the sway bar can contact the e-locker motor/actuator.

WHAAATTTTT. I had no idea anything could contact the locker. That really needs to be a PSA...

Is this something to worry about?
 
I've got 890s and have used the tundra 5100s; they were horrible.

And even with the soft nitro chargers I'm running now, the problem were basically the same.

Both sets of shocks just seem like they start out like concrete and then just let go. So basically when you first hit like a speed bump or anything like that the back end skyrockets upward but when it comes back down it just immediately bottoms out with no resistance from the shock. Blah.

I would try the 4Runner specific rear 5100, but the damn things aren't long enough.

I've been debating for months now with it just to say **** it and get Kings. but then I read mixed opinions on the Kings where some people say they ride like crap, and I really don't want to pay $1,200 for something that doesn't ride like a cloud.

Can you link some of the kings opinions... literally about to pull the trigger on them for front and rear, and I came here looking to figure out what rear springs to pair them with. It would be the 2.5 set that srq offers and I was thinking of doing the OME 891 or 861, gonna do a bumper and swing out carrier soon. And you’re dead right why would I pay top dollar for something that’s not plush?
 
It's more for those with a lot of droop and flex. Rear Sway Bar Brackets from our 1.2 Lift Kit - $48.30 : Sonoran Steel Fabrication LLC, Toyota Truck Parts Sonoran steel talks about it a little in this product description.

What counts as "a lot of droop" these days?

Can you link some of the kings opinions... literally about to pull the trigger on them for front and rear, and I came here looking to figure out what rear springs to pair them with. It would be the 2.5 set that srq offers and I was thinking of doing the OME 891 or 861, gonna do a bumper and swing out carrier soon. And you’re dead right why would I pay top dollar for something that’s not plush?

I've been looking myself for a while. Keeping finding mixed opinions. For $2000 for a set, to me they need to be the best you can get. That's a lot of money for them to have some "good, but...." Issues.
 
What counts as "a lot of droop" these days?



I've been looking myself for a while. Keeping finding mixed opinions. For $2000 for a set, to me they need to be the best you can get. That's a lot of money for them to have some "good, but...." Issues.
I have no direct experience with this, but I would expect 891/861/LC Springs would provide enough droop without losing a coil to maybe have clearance issues.
 
I have no direct experience with this, but I would expect 891/861/LC Springs would provide enough droop without losing a coil to maybe have clearance issues.

Doesn't it depend on the shock? Since the max length of the shock becomes your limiter, I believe.

Side note, what is the maximum collapsed shock length for the rear with stock bump stops? Ignoring tire size. 13"? 13.5"? 14"? Etc.
 
Doesn't it depend on the shock? Since the max length of the shock becomes your limiter, I believe.

Side note, what is the maximum collapsed shock length for the rear with stock bump stops? Ignoring tire size. 13"? 13.5"? 14"? Etc.

I'm no expert but from the forums I've read 14.5+ seems to be what people say is the maximum collapsed length. I follow a guy on Instagram who runs toytec 3inch rear coils with the 4th gen 5100s and he said he hasn't extended bumpstops but they need to be. I think that shock is 14.91 collapsed
 
I'm no expert but from the forums I've read 14.5+ seems to be what people say is the maximum collapsed length. I follow a guy on Instagram who runs toytec 3inch rear coils with the 4th gen 5100s and he said he hasn't extended bumpstops but they need to be. I think that shock is 14.91 collapsed

Basically I was asking because I've started wondering if my durobumps are too long. They bottom out very easily over bumps and it is rough...lol
 
Doesn't it depend on the shock? Since the max length of the shock becomes your limiter, I believe.

Side note, what is the maximum collapsed shock length for the rear with stock bump stops? Ignoring tire size. 13"? 13.5"? 14"? Etc.
In an ideal situation, yes the shock should be the limiter. But you should also have the appropriate shock for your coil spring. You're going to have a bad time using LC Tokico's with 99 tall springs.
 
In an ideal situation, yes the shock should be the limiter. But you should also have the appropriate shock for your coil spring. You're going to have a bad time using LC Tokico's with 99 tall springs.

Well of course since that shock is too long. I think we need to collectively figure out what the max shock lengths are per coil.

If we could figure this information out I could load it to my spreadsheet database.
 
Anyone know if 890s will get loose with LC shocks? I know they work up to 22.4" with Tundra 5100s, but I am not sure about the "23.5 on the LC shocks.
:banana:
 
Ill have to try this. I don't really live in an area where I can easily find a spot to flex out the truck but ill locate something and report back with measurements. ill have the 2nd gen sway bar links on the rear and see if that gives me the articulation I'm looking for.

Where should this measurement be taken from? I'm assuming from underside the top shock mount to the bottom mount?

Keep in mind this is what im seeing for full compression/droop(see below). This seem about right to you? stock swaybar links still attached with the 0-2 inch 4runner 5100s

Truck loading ramp usually works pretty good for flexing.
 
So I have some new information regarding the "long travel" FJ 5100s on our 3rd gens. I was talking to runnin_with_rachel on Instagram who runs these shocks on his 2002

He said that he is using the 3" toytec springs(9602) and that he runs this setup with no sway bars at all and he doesn't lose his spring. He says that he can move the springs around at full droop but they do not fall out. (Collapsed=14.91" extended=23.5")

He says that he has no extended bumpstops but I saw a photo of his and they do not look stock to me unless 2002 has different bumpstops.(shown in his highlights)

Also, I should note that on his highlights it shows the springs he is using(toytec 3") but the only 3 inch springs on toytecs website have WAYYYYYY too many top wraps to be his unless its just a random photo though I doubt it. I've heard there are 2 versions, one being 3.75 inches of lift and one being only 3"

So what this means to me is that if you keep the rear swaybar on with extended links these shocks should work with OME 890s?

Any thoughts? Any major holes in my reasoning that I may have missed?
 
Hello again,

I wanted to provide a quick update on my current setup. I bit the bullet and ordered the LC shocks and went ahead and installed them a couple months ago. They bolt right on and required no drilling, though it is recommended to do so I have not done so yet.

In addition I also installed GMC bravada bumpstops PN:15962403, as well as 95 4runner rear swaybar links.

All of this was bolt on and required no modifcation. The bumpstops are soft rubber and they are roughly double the length of the stock bumpstops. Reason I went with these is that I'm not spending $165 on Durobumps or whatever they are called. These work just fine for 90 bucks shipped and I have had no issues. I'm sure these are readily available at local junkyards for dirt cheap too.

Overall these shocks are a bit stiffer than my old 5100s but I like the ride.

Now the part everyone has been waiting for, do the 890s fall out? The answer is a solid NO. If you ditch your swaybars it might be a different story but even when lifting a wheel they are FIRMLY in place. I did run into the gas tank/driveshaft issue but a quick cut on the skid to where it made contact and now the driveshaft doesnt even come close to hitting, again if you ditch swaybars it may still hit.

The LC shocks provide a decent amount of travel over the 5100s I had before. At least 3 or 4 inches more. Even full flexed I still have at least another 3 inches before the shock bottoms out.

The photos below show me at full flex with the 5100s(Lifiting a wheel about an inch) and the other shows me at full flex with LC shocks(also lifting a wheel about an inch) You can see the top of the tire is much further down.

Overall cost with shipping:

Shocks: $105.71
PN:48531-69417

Bumpstops: $81.37
PN:15962403

Swaybar links: $28.64
PN:GS86809

Total cost: $215.72
 

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