Yet Another LIFT Question Thread...

[CoMarc]

Let me start off with that I've read just about every lift thread there is (I think) and I have a good idea on what lifts are available, but I still have a couple of questions about the below lifts and which one will work best for my needs. I would love anyone's experience and comments on these as well!

The lifts I'm looking at (in no current particular order) are:

1. Toytec Ultimate Lift
   - Red 600lb coils, 906 rear
2. Toytec Complete Lift
   - 881s, 906 w/60028s
3. Tundra TRD coils/struts and LC coils
   - LC 7 wraps

So, it looks like I'm getting a bit more back from Uncle Sam in the form of my tax refund than I originally had thought I would be. So because of that I may be in the market for a lift sooner than I had planned for! I'll have about $1000-$1200 to buy and have the suspension installed (I'm not very mechanically inclined); if I have help I could probably do it in my own garage. My current stock shocks/struts and coils are VERY stiff and I can feel every bump, crack and flaw in the road I pass over so in replacing my suspension I figured I should do it right and put in a lift. However, I have to take several considerations into planning and buying the lift. Here's my considerations on buying a lift:

1. Would like to be as level as possible even while towing
   - if raked at all, back should be higher
2. Comfort is a huge concern; I don't want anything very stiff (note I know this is a truck)
3. Mostly going to be used on paved road, daily driver
   - I do a little of mild off-road traveling when getting to camp spots
4. I pull a 2000-2500lb trailer regularly on said camping trips
5. Wife doesn't want a huge lift so she and our new 4month old baby can still get in and out of the truck

So, with that all in mind, and the lifts I listed above, what do you think my best options are? What are your opinions on these lifts in regards to my considerations? It looks like I just missed out on the group buy/discount Toytec was having (if only I had known on my tax refund!). If there's anything I haven't taken into account or considered please let me know! I appreciate any help, comments and suggestions I can get, and any help to convince my wife that this is a good use of our refund is also greatly appreciated!

Thanks everyone!
Marc

 

[DH4Runner]

I can only say that I should have the toytec coilovers delivered by the time I get home today. That will be paired with some used 890's. I went with the coilovers because of the adjustability and the fact that they can come preassembled. So, I should only have to do the front once and can adjust if I ever change the back.

As far as convincing... my struts were shot so I needed a new suspension anyway. Why not spend the little extra to get it the way I really want it? That worked on my wife Good luck

 

[CoMarc]

I've got the wife pretty much convinced at this point. I'm not too worried about that point. But I would love to hear from y'all that had experience with these lift setups and what you liked or didn't like, if it would work for what I'm going for, etc... Thanks again for all the input!

 

[rjaudi]

I had the 7.5 wraps out back and the rear was very high. I would not recommend if you want to be able to get in and out easy. I love my setup which is front Tundra 5100 bilstein shocks with tundra coils. Then OME 890's in the back with factory black LC shocks. Looking at about 2.5 inch lift in the front and 3 inch in the back. I really like the sonoran steel diff drop. You might be able to do the tundra shocks on the low perch with the 906 rear.

 

[fightman80]

Rjaudi has some good points!

 

[NickF]

"The low perch"?

 

[CoMarc]

I had the 7.5 wraps out back and the rear was very high. I would not recommend if you want to be able to get in and out easy. I love my setup which is front Tundra 5100 bilstein shocks with tundra coils. Then OME 890's in the back with factory black LC shocks. Looking at about 2.5 inch lift in the front and 3 inch in the back. I really like the sonoran steel diff drop. You might be able to do the tundra shocks on the low perch with the 906 rear.

What do you mean "low perch", by chance? I'm assuming that means adjusting them down a little so that the truck would sit level with the 906's, right?

Thanks again for everyone's feedback!

 

[Mauzer]

If your not going to be offroading most of the kits you listed are overkill, if you want a level stance with good road manners and not too much lift you should consider the Sonoran Steel 3.0. Its only $630 and would meet all the qualifications you listed and you could run 265/75R16's which give you enough clearance to run camp roads and the tires are less expensive than running 285's.

 

[CoMarc]

If your not going to be offroading most of the kits you listed are overkill, if you want a level stance with good road manners and not too much lift you should consider the Sonoran Steel 3.0. Its only $630 and would meet all the qualifications you listed and you could run 265/75R16's which give you enough clearance to run camp roads and the tires are less expensive than running 285's.

Thanks for the input, Mauzer! I actually run 32" tires now (265/70/17s on my FJC rims) and wasn't planning on going any bigger till I need new tires. I have looked at the 3.0 Sonoran Steel lift, but it only shows that I'll get about a 1" lift. I want something bigger . And who knows, I might want to start doing more offroad adventures in the future when I have more time on my hands. I'd rather not have to buy a whole new lift kit then.

 

[not2tired]

I had the 7.5 wraps out back and the rear was very high. I would not recommend if you want to be able to get in and out easy. I love my setup which is front Tundra 5100 bilstein shocks with tundra coils.

I was reading about the 5100's, and they said it is a leveling kit and not a lift kit. The Bilstein 5100 Leveling Kit – First Look | Tundra Headquarters. Is the 2.5" lift you have in the front due to the fact it is from a Tundra?

Have you noticed a reduction in the downward travel with your set up in the front, or does it simply work better?

Is there adjustability to more than 2.5"? Would stock springs from a wrecker work as well, and if so, what vehicle used them?

In the LIFT Sticky, the LC 7 wraps are supposed to give 3 to 3.5" lift and the 8 wrap is 4" in the rear - that would give between 1" and 1.5" of rake depending on the spring you had - why did you replace your LC coils?

Thanks!

 

[brian2sun]

I think the Toytec colovers are great struts, but I agree they are overkill for you if you're not going to offroad it all that much. The OMEs will probably be stiffer than you would like for on road. My suggestion would be the Tundra coils/LC 7 wraps for the best ride and it'll probably end up being much cheaper than the other lifts too since you can piece it together. Talk to Duhockey about finding the rear LC coils, he's the man.

 

[rjaudi]

I was reading about the 5100's, and they said it is a leveling kit and not a lift kit. The Bilstein 5100 Leveling Kit – First Look | Tundra Headquarters. Is the 2.5" lift you have in the front due to the fact it is from a Tundra?

Have you noticed a reduction in the downward travel with your set up in the front, or does it simply work better?

Is there adjustability to more than 2.5"? Would stock springs from a wrecker work as well, and if so, what vehicle used them?

In the LIFT Sticky, the LC 7 wraps are supposed to give 3 to 3.5" lift and the 8 wrap is 4" in the rear - that would give between 1" and 1.5" of rake depending on the spring you had - why did you replace your LC coils?

Thanks!

I was looking at 4 inches of rear lift with the LC 7.5 wraps. So I had a good 1.75 inch of rake because I really got about 2.25 inch of front lift with the Tundra set-up since I have the ARB on there. The number one thing to remember is everyone's set-up will be different. For instance I have no rear hitch which could account for the high rear. The tundra 5100's start at 1.5 inch of lift and then go to 2.5 inch of lift. There are five settings to put the spring perch on. So this is what adjusts the height. I really enjoy the front set-up, the shocks work really well with the Tundra springs as they were designed to work together. You need Yellow/Yellow and Yellow/Blue Tundra coils from the TRD Tundra's.

 

[CoMarc]

Wow, a lot of information again (I think my brain is full and getting confused). I went back and read about 2 dozen threads on the Tundra coils/shocks and LC coils again. I think I'm sold on the Tundra/LC wraps idea. Here's what I've got that I need:

1. Tundra TRD coils and stock blistein shocks (from 2001-2006)
2. 1/2 (or 3/4?) top spacer for front to help level the truck
3. FJ80 LC 7 wrap coils (from 1991-1997)
4. Differential drop

Questions I still have:
Is there a better front shock I should I use?
What shocks should I get for rear?
Do I need the 10mm trim packer for the rear as well to help level?
Should I look into extended brake lines?
Are these the correct LC color codes that I want to use
- 19" Double Pink Light Blue White 7.5 wraps
- 18.5" Double Pink Grey White 7.5 wraps

I also found a thread where someone used the 906's instead of the LC coils (see This Thread). What are your thoughts on these coils paired with the Tundra TRD front end?

 

[CoMarc]

So from everything I've been reading, the LC coils in the back--even going with the smallest coils will still lift me 3+ inches, and I think that may be too high (PLEASE correct me if this information is wrong).

I think my best bet with the above information is to go with the Tundra TRD front shocks and coils (possibly upgrade to the adjustable 5100 Blisteins) with 1/2" top spacer in the front, and OME 906s or 890s with 60028 shocks in the rear. That sound like it'll come out level?

 

[Mauzer]

Questions I still have:
Is there a better front shock I should I use?Adjustable bilstein 5100's for a TUNDRA
What shocks should I get for rear?Stock REAR LC shocks or Bilsteins 5100's for a 1st gen Tundra
Do I need the 10mm trim packer for the rear as well to help level?NO
Should I look into extended brake lines?You can just bend the tabs the rear lines are connected to to accommodate the flex

So from everything I've been reading, the LC coils in the back--even going with the smallest coils will still lift me 3+ inches, and I think that may be too high (PLEASE correct me if this information is wrong).

I think my best bet with the above information is to go with the Tundra TRD front shocks and coils (possibly upgrade to the adjustable 5100 Blisteins) with 1/2" top spacer in the front, and OME 906s or 890s with 60028 shocks in the rear. That sound like it'll come out level?

There is no need to use a top out spacer with the adj billy's, the adjustment collar does the exact same thing the top out spacer does.

 

[brian2sun]

There is no need to use a top out spacer with the adj billy's, the adjustment collar does the exact same thing the top out spacer does.

Yeah, no reason to have a top out and the adjustable Billies. Choose one or the other. They both give lift, but an adjustable collar will preload the coil (just like the type of spacers that go inside the strut assembly do) and that means the ride will be a little stiffer because the coil is being squashed more. A top out spacer goes on top of the strut and doesn't preload the coil, but the disadvantage of top outs is they put you closer to full droop at rest so you'll have less down travel with them. I personally would go with the Billies and call it done because the stiffness doesn't seem to be a big issue with the Tundra coils and you'll have better travel than with a top out.

Also, don't get 906s if you want to sit level with Tundras/Billies (unless you have the Billies set all the way down). Otherwise you'll have a noticeable reverse rake. Even 890s won't likely sit level with the front (if you have them set high). IMO 7 or 8 wraps are your best bet (even with a small 1" rake). That will make the roof line actually sit level which looks better even if the wheelwell gap is bigger in the rear. Equal wheelwell gap makes the ass look saggy because the roof isn't flat, it angles downward towards the rear.

 

[CoMarc]

You guys rock!! Alright, now I'm back on track with the LC coils then.

Looking at :
Tundra TRD coils w/stock blisteins (or if I have the money will buy the 5100's)
LC (front) 7wrap Coils w/stock (rear) shocks or Blistein 5100s (Tundra 1gen)
Differential 1" drop

Phew! If I've missed something, let me know! I'm starting to look for the TRD coils and LC coils now, but can't buy anything till my refund comes through! Again, thanks everyone!

 

[brian2sun]

The only thing I would say you may or may not be missing is... just the Tundra coils without the adjustable shocks aren't going to give you 3" of lift in the front, more like 2-2.5" max. I would get the adjustable Billies with the Tundra coils and adjust the collar up a little to sit nicely with the LC coils. If you don't get the adjustable shocks, the 890s would probably be a better choice to sit level witht he Tundra coils alone.

 

[CoMarc]

The only thing I would say you may or may not be missing is... just the Tundra coils without the adjustable shocks aren't going to give you 3" of lift in the front, more like 2-2.5" max. I would get the adjustable Billies with the Tundra coils and adjust the collar up a little to sit nicely with the LC coils. If you don't get the adjustable shocks, the 890s would probably be a better choice to sit level witht he Tundra coils alone.

Are these the right shocks for the FRONT and REAR from Toytec to work with the Tundra TRD and LC coils? (Click Here)

 

[brian2sun]

I think so, but I would verify with Toytec to make sure.