Your 4 Runner is going to get marked up and dirty...

SWEET!!!

Hey quick question, take a look at that harness: from a birds eye view it looks to me that switch might just fit perfectly in the 4 Runner slot. What do you think?

For that money I think I will go with those as long as this is the model that is less than 6 inches in diameter.
 
Not sure by looking at the switch if it will fit but you can always get one of these switches:

http://www.painlesswiring.com/switchcc.htm
Item Number 80407

I have two of the 80408 switches and they fit perfectly in the center console area (which I assume would fit in the dash part too). Ofcourse I had to squeeze it thru but it did fit :)

On my dash I have a small switch that you can get from autozone but that requires drilling into the existing switch socket. (not recommended as it's a pain). Just go for the single pole switch mentioned above.

One word of caution. Don't mount these on the bumper (plastic) as when you are driving it will bobble alot! The vibrations will be noticeable. Get a sturdy harness if you're planning to mount to the bumper. If you're mounting to the roof (via racks or whatever) then you're okay :)

Don't forget pix!!
 
FirstToyz said:
They look cool but you like them because they're called the "Lance" right!;)

lol I knew that was gonna come out eventually !! :D

Actually I'm lookin at the 240 series if not the 170 series. I hope to get a front bumper before next summer so I can add these baby's :)

I wanted the hella 4000's but they're abit pricy so the 170/240's were more reasonable. I know there are a few members on yotatech that has em and love em :) The cool feature they have is you can add a lens cap to change the characteristic of the light to become flood/etc etc..

Pretty cool stuff actually... (in general) and I think the lights are brighter than the Hella's (can't verify but hey if it's brighter than headlights its good!)
 
Good Times,
You have all the good links. I will definetly go with Item #80409 for I think the blue will look nicer.

As far as where I am planning to mount, check out this link.Westin Safari Bar

You mentioned the center console. Actually that is where I really want to put my switch, but I see getting the wires from point A to B can be really difficult for I really want to try not to take the dash apart and stuff. I figured if that's going to be as hard as I think it will be, I am probably just going to remove the switch cover on the left side of the dash and run the wires there through the firewall. However, if you have some suggestion about getting it to the center console switches I am all ears.

Like I said before (maybe in another thread) I promised to wait till X-mas to see if I get this. If I don't, the first chance I get I will be on the computer ordering everything! Then as soon as it gets to my house, it's going on the car. Then when it works, pix you will get plenty of :D
 
Re: Re: Re: Hey Brian...

FirstToyz said:
First-nice write up

second,
why the fogs instead of driving? I am guessing the driving have a more focused light while fogs are dispersed?

At that height, would the fogs do well? Shouldn't fogs be set as low as possible or ??

Anyway, lots of questions because I want to learn:)
Thanks

In the 03 4 Runner we already have fog lights. My main reason is to have a set of lights that will light up the straight like the sun. Came in handy once when some moron kept flashing his high beams accusing me I had my brights on. Well I got tired of it so I hit the switch for my PIAA's at the time and showed him what bright lights are really like.
 
On that switch, don't forget that the blue switch is a double pole switch: which means you can control two circuits by the flick of the switch vs the single pole (yellow) switch can only control 1 circuit.

Running the switch to the center console is actually easy. You don't even need any tools (aside from your bare hands). Just start nudging on the center console (top center piece that surrounds the gear shifter). You can dislodge it from the center arm rest area where there is a small open pocket. After that it's all clips and everything will pop off easily. You can then run all your wires by passing by the driver dash (behind and keep it clean w/ zip ties).

The westin bar should work fine but some warning as it still might vibrate somewhat (can't verify).

good luck! :)
 
Good Times said:
On that switch, don't forget that the blue switch is a double pole switch: which means you can control two circuits by the flick of the switch vs the single pole (yellow) switch can only control 1 circuit.

If you haven't noticed yet, I am a rooky. So what does that mean in English?
 
A single pole switch can control one circuit. A double pole switch can control two circuits, and so on.

Single pole switch will control one set of fog/driving lights whereas if you have 2 sets then the double pole can control both sets lights :) Useless in some ways not necessarily used in all applications.

I use the single pole switches :0
 
Re: Re: Re: Hey Brian...

FirstToyz said:
First-nice write up

second,
why the fogs instead of driving? I am guessing the driving have a more focused light while fogs are dispersed?

At that height, would the fogs do well? Shouldn't fogs be set as low as possible or ??

Anyway, lots of questions because I want to learn:)
Thanks

Didn't want to waste money putting fogs in the valence as I'm going with a TJM soon and the valence ones are like $200 and can't use clear covers like the Hella 500s. I got fogs because I work near a large river and go to work early and it is always foggy, so when I get close I usually just cut off my headlights and turn on the fogs. They work really well as they light up much shorter than driving lights but much wider and still far enough to see well in front of you.

I'll put some driving lights on the roof rack eventually, Hella 500s of course with clear stone shields too!

:guitar:
 
Well the lights and the wiring harness has been ordered. As far as this switch goes, I am not having much luck with finding a place to order it. This site just gives info, and they suggest I go to Auto Zone which I might just do that: but I am also thinking if I have I to do drive somewhere to install these, why don't I just go to Toyota and order their switch. Do you have some place online I can order these?

Good Times said:
Not sure by looking at the switch if it will fit but you can always get one of these switches:

http://www.painlesswiring.com/switchcc.htm
Item Number 80407

I have two of the 80408 switches and they fit perfectly in the center console area (which I assume would fit in the dash part too). Ofcourse I had to squeeze it thru but it did fit :)

On my dash I have a small switch that you can get from autozone but that requires drilling into the existing switch socket. (not recommended as it's a pain). Just go for the single pole switch mentioned above.

One word of caution. Don't mount these on the bumper (plastic) as when you are driving it will bobble alot! The vibrations will be noticeable. Get a sturdy harness if you're planning to mount to the bumper. If you're mounting to the roof (via racks or whatever) then you're okay :)

Don't forget pix!!
 
Summit Racing those Painless buttons :)

Summit's part number goes like this:

PFR-80407

PFR- followed by the painless button number.

9 bucks for the button and if u get the stock ones it's prob going to cost ya 50?
 
I was getting nothing with the info you were giving me. I am thinking, oh come on Good Times has been on the ball so far. Turned out buddy, it's PRF-80407 :D

Hey since you have been so helpful, how about you come to CT, I'll buy the beers and we can have an installation party? :D

I was once at a performance party: really was just an excuse to get all his buddies to install the performance parts in his Camaro.

P.S.

Switch has been ordered. Last thing is the Safari Bar.

P.S.S.
I had an idea for 2004 project. I already have louder horns "118db" so I was thinking on the passenger side of the front of the vehicle I install the loudest air horns money can buy and wire them to a seperate button. So I only use them when I want to, not when I need a horn.

Good Times said:
Summit Racing those Painless buttons :)

Summit's part number goes like this:

PFR-80407

PFR- followed by the painless button number.

9 bucks for the button and if u get the stock ones it's prob going to cost ya 50?
 
Apparently I don't know how to spell and read ;)

Good to hear you found it! It's the same button I have and have used. Now all ya gotta do is wire em up when you're ready!!!!

I am most definitely up for some beer! Too bad you're way on the other side. Now only if I had enough free time to accumulated to skip outta work!

Don't forget those pix when you get em done :)
 
Three last questions and I think I will know everything I need to know to do this mod perfectly:

1. The wire that is connecting the power source, should have the fuse on it between the power source and the other end?

2. What amp fuse should I use?

3. There are ends I can put on the wire that will cut threw the plastic coating and make enough contact to the wire so I can tap into it's power?


P.S.

Someone mentioned that there was an old thread that gave a visual of how to remove the center console: I found it, and now I see. I was not on the same page, but not far from it either.
 
Diagram should look like this:

----------------
| |
B --- F ---- R--------L-----G
| | |
------------- S---------------

Switch has 3 connections
Batt source - so relay knows singal is hot
Ground - ground :)
Acc source - sends signal to relay to trigger lights

Fuse
Sits within 12" from Battery

Relay
Battery source (from fuse) - actual power to lights
Switch source - receives signal to trigger lights on
Ground source - ground
Light source - sends power to lights when switch is triggered

Light
receives power from relay.
ground :)

It's something like this. But don't worry about it as your wiring harness will take care of this. (The harness will come with everything you need so you don't need to buy a fuse or wire clips). All you have to do is plug and play!! It'll have all the pictures on where what goes and you'll figure it out quickly that it only works one way. The only thing you need to do is crimp the lines so you can attach it to the relay and switch. Also connect it to the light and battery too.

Make sure you use your switch instead of theirs. Also you have to decide if you want the lights to be activated via by headlights or direct. This means you can use em whenever or when the headlights are on.

Tool(s) you will need:
Wire crimper (radio shack)
Beer
Someone that can read instructions cuz I never do ;)
 
I can be a real dork sometimes.

Yes I can admit it. I am the one that started this thread about mark ups on your car and such. People agree that it gives the car character and in a way shows you do stuff with it. Well this morning I was so anxious to see how that center console opens up I wip out my Leatherman, use the flat head to pop it open, and nicked so plastic. But what do you expect using metal on plastic. How lame is that? I am telling myself will you stop being a putz and let stupid shit like that bother you. Do you guys find yourselves having to do that to yourself sometimes?
 

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