Your thoughts please

StreetCreeper

New member
For my initial post, I would first like to say hello to everyone... so hello!

Ok so here is my situation. I was recently given a 1997 4runner Limited.

Sounds great cause it's free, but it needs work. Thing is, I'm not a mechanic (but I am willing to pretend) and I have no idea if the thing is even worth fixing up, or if I should save my money and purchase a 3rd gen in way better shape later on.

I should mention that I really like the 3rd generation 4runners; never owned one until now though. But now that I have one, I want to stick with the 3rd Gen.

Ok, so about the truck itself, it's rough. It's totally stock, has 359k miles on it and it was not babied in any way. The mere fact that it still runs today is a testament to Toyota quality I suppose.

I'm not sure what—if anything besides brakes, alternator and batteries were ever replaced. Previous owners (in-laws) didn't keep records and don't recall much when asked.

What I do know about it is that the lights pulse from regular brightness to a slightly dimmer brightness and it seems to coincide with a lope in the idle. I jokingly refer to the truck as the UFO to my wife, cause of the flashing lights.

At about 60mph it develops a shake. (I'm guessing the crap tires, balance and alignment are to blame)

I was informed that the front passenger wheel fell off at a stoplight once....but nobody recalls why. (Seriously)

The vehicle pulls to the right.

When applying the brakes, the truck shakes petty bad especially if you are applying light to moderate pressure. If you apply more pressure and brake harder, the shaking seems to lessen. Wtf?

It has a switch for "rr dif lock" (or something like that) on the dash left of the steering wheel. Not sure what that is for or if it is even stock or aftermarket.

The paint has never been taken care of but it's not peeling...just has no shine and looks permanently dirty. (Was white when new...now just dingy white)

The body has plenty of dents and dings, but no major hits to it.

The interior is rough though. Well...dirty for most of it and the front seats are pretty much shot...along with the cup holders and center armrest/storage compartment. I have no idea about replacement leather seats or about rebuilding them.

Despite all this, the A/C blows cold, it shifts right into 4wd and its still kinda fun to drive.

I'll take pics when the sun is out and try to post them.

So any thoughts on if this is probably more trouble than its worth? I'm not looking for some super off road rock climbing machine, but more of a "take the kids out on the weekend and drive some easy trails to a good fishing hole" sort of truck.
 
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Ok, so about the truck itself, it's rough. It's totally stock, has 365k miles on it and it was not babied in any way. The mere fact that it still runs today is a testament to Toyota quality I suppose.

Same mileage mine was when I got it!

I'm not sure what—if anything besides brakes, alternator and batteries were ever replaced. Previous owners (in-laws) didn't keep records and don't recall much when asked.

What I do know about it is that the lights pulse from regular brightness to a slightly dimmer brightness and it seems to coincide with a lope in the idle. I jokingly refer to the truck as the UFO to my wife, cause of the flashing lights.

At about 60mph it develops a shake. (I'm guessing the crap tires, balance and alignment are to blame)

Either one of these three things or a mix or a bad driveline u-joint, all easy fixes.

I was informed that the front passenger wheel fell off at a stoplight once....but nobody recalls why. (Seriously)

Probably ball joint failure

The vehicle pulls to the right.

Alignment

When applying the brakes, the truck shakes petty bad especially if you are applying light to moderate pressure. If you apply more pressure and brake harder, the shaking seems to lessen. Wtf?

I'm having the same issue and the culprit was a warped rotor, easy fix.... Also the clips that hold the brake pads on fell off somewhere lol

It has a switch for "rr dif lock" (or something like that) on the dash left of the steering wheel. Not sure what that is for or if it is even stock or aftermarket.

Stock rear differential locker, good for you!

The paint has never been taken care of but it's not peeling...just has no shine and looks permanently dirty. (Was white when new...now just dingy white)

Probably looks like my truck

The body has plenty of dents and dings, but no major hits to it.

The interior is rough though. Well...dirty for most of it and the front seats are pretty much shot...along with the cup holders and center armrest/storage compartment. I have no idea about replacement leather seats or about rebuilding them.

Typical of these trucks

Despite all this, the A/C blows cold, it shifts right into 4wd and its still kinda fun to drive.

I'll take pics when the sun is out and try to post them.

So any thoughts on if this is probably more trouble than its worth? I'm not looking for some super off road rock climbing machine, but more of a "take the kids out on the weekend and drive some easy trails to a good fishing hole" sort of truck.


Comments in red^^^

With a little maintenance to fix those minute issues, you're good to go!
 
I'd fix it up. I think you should take the money you would have set aside for a better one, and use that for your own "emergency fund" for the vehicle, in case something really huge ever comes up.

From what you're describing, it sounds like you would want to do the following pretty soon:

Brakes (rotors / pads)
Alignment
Tires (if the four that are on there now are super worn)
Look into the U-joint / source of the vibration if the tires don't fix it

That little button you described is VERY desirable.. it's an electronic locker for the rear wheels. Once you fix those things, I think you'll be able to get some good use out of this car! Since yours is a '97 (this is minor, I know, but it made ALL the difference in mine), you might want to look for a center console / cupholder from a '99-'02 4Runner. Just swap the e-brake lever, bracket, and console, and then you'll have two cupholders instead of having to rely on those flimsy ones in front of your vents!! For the first month after I got my 4Runner, I was having to pour anything I wanted to drink from a can (RedBull / Mountain Dew / whatever) into a bottle that I carried around with me. It got old..fast! Haha. It's the little things!
 
That little button you described is VERY desirable.. it's an electronic locker for the rear wheels.

Are there really that many people out there without rear lockers and I just got lucky? I have never seen a Runner without a rear diff lock lol. I actually thought it was a standard thin for the longest time lol.

And to the OP my suggestion is that if you have another car, to clean up the 4runner sell it. Personally it sounds like it has had a rough life and may be more trouble than its worth, plus then you can use the money for something fun lol.
 
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Are there really that many people out there without rear lockers and I just got lucky? I have never seen a Runner without a rear diff lock lol. I actually thought it was a standard thin for the longest time lol.

Mine is sans factory e locker and it kills me
 
As others have said, just a bit of money and time invested and you'll be good to go.
If you replace the brakes, take a look at the Tundra Brake Upgrade, plenty of threads about it.
A decent set of seat covers can do a lot for the interior, I wouldn't worry about new leather personally.
The wheel falling off was likely an LBJ failure like stated above...happens more than you'd think.
For the paint, check out this thread...a few hours and the paint can look like new.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116860-natural-white-revitalization-thread.html

The RR lock is nice to have when off-roading or in the snow in winter...wish I had one.

I'd definitely keep it, just throw a bit of money into maintenance to freshen everything up. Hell, even if you have to replace the engine, you'd still have a good deal on your hands.
 
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Please have your lower ball-joints checked out ASAP. If the truck was not maintained much they may be worn and could be the cause of " the wheel falling off". You can search the forum for ways to check them, replace them, and what happens if you don't.

The 97 is a wonderful rig. We have a couple in our group pushing 400k and still going strong.

**Shoot - looks like I was late on my advice. May want to add the timing belt to the mix as well.
 
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Great info guys. I'm learning a lot here by chasing down the links you all are mentioning like the Tundra brake upgrades, restoring the paint and replacing the cup holder with later year ones...etc. Also, I'm happy to learn about that rear differential lock and how its used. (This place is a tremendous source of useful info!)

Of course, I get caught up in reading the build pages of everyones rides when I start looking up info you all have mentioned. Suddenly I find myself on a completely new subject from what I started investigating initially. lol

I'll be taking the truck into a brake shop soon to see whats up with the shaking. I'll ask about the ball joints too.

I saw another thread about the sagging rear end that is typical of this truck and was wondering where i can get the recall papers from to take into the dealer. I found them on another thread but they are pictures and my printer did not print them well. Anyone know of a source for these that are printable? I'll keep searching in the meantime.

After reading what everyone here has written, I really think I am leaning towards making this a project (albeit a slow one) to restoring the functionality and safety of this truck. From what it sounds like, my truck is still capable of being a great ride with some hard work, a little money and enough time for me to learn how to do things (again not a mechanical guy but willing to learn). I think the info presented in this forum will take me a long way.

First things first though, I need to address the safety issues of the shaking and also attempt to determine the source for the pulsing lights. Last night I made a Taco Bell run and noticed that the lights were pulsing and the battery light indicator was popping on and off for a minute or two after I started driving, then went out. It never came back, but the lights continued to pulse for a couple minutes then stopped as I was cruising along at 55mph. However, when I applied the brakes--the lights began pulsing again. I should add that it is all the lights from the interior to the headlights that pulse. It also seems to stay pulsing when the A/C is blowing.

Sadly I'm not fluent in auto electrical stuff, but I'm wondering if this may be something simple like a loose wire or junk battery. I'll have the battery tested soon too.
 
Sadly I'm not fluent in auto electrical stuff, but I'm wondering if this may be something simple like a loose wire or junk battery. I'll have the battery tested soon too.

Could be battery, alternator, loose ground wire, or even slipping belts (but you would usually hear that one). Most places that check the battery will be able to eliminate 2 out of 4.
 
I would place all of my money for your electrical issues on a bad alternator or bad battery. I HIGHLY doubt the wiring between the battery and the alt is screwy. You should get the battery tested and then if that checks out you will have to pull the alternator and have an autoparts store bench test it.

I have had what you are describing happen to me, and it turned out to be the alternator.

Here is a tut on how to pull the alternator if it comes to that:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/143711-diy-replacing-3rd-gen-alternator.html

One thing I can suggest is that don't pull the mud flaps in the wheel well like they show, everything can be done from the top just as simple. It took me about 10 minutes to pull the alternator on mine when it went. I actually ended up doing the whole swap in the parking lot of Advanced Autoparts and was in and out in a half hour.
 
Great info guys. I'm learning a lot here by chasing down the links you all are mentioning like the Tundra brake upgrades, restoring the paint and replacing the cup holder with later year ones...etc. Also, I'm happy to learn about that rear differential lock and how its used. (This place is a tremendous source of useful info!)

Of course, I get caught up in reading the build pages of everyones rides when I start looking up info you all have mentioned. Suddenly I find myself on a completely new subject from what I started investigating initially. lol

I'll be taking the truck into a brake shop soon to see whats up with the shaking. I'll ask about the ball joints too.

I saw another thread about the sagging rear end that is typical of this truck and was wondering where i can get the recall papers from to take into the dealer. I found them on another thread but they are pictures and my printer did not print them well. Anyone know of a source for these that are printable? I'll keep searching in the meantime.

After reading what everyone here has written, I really think I am leaning towards making this a project (albeit a slow one) to restoring the functionality and safety of this truck. From what it sounds like, my truck is still capable of being a great ride with some hard work, a little money and enough time for me to learn how to do things (again not a mechanical guy but willing to learn). I think the info presented in this forum will take me a long way.

First things first though, I need to address the safety issues of the shaking and also attempt to determine the source for the pulsing lights. Last night I made a Taco Bell run and noticed that the lights were pulsing and the battery light indicator was popping on and off for a minute or two after I started driving, then went out. It never came back, but the lights continued to pulse for a couple minutes then stopped as I was cruising along at 55mph. However, when I applied the brakes--the lights began pulsing again. I should add that it is all the lights from the interior to the headlights that pulse. It also seems to stay pulsing when the A/C is blowing.

Sadly I'm not fluent in auto electrical stuff, but I'm wondering if this may be something simple like a loose wire or junk battery. I'll have the battery tested soon too.

This sounds very likely to be an alternator to me. Pop the hood and check the battery terminals, makes sure the connections are clean and tight. Also check the same for the ground. If all that checks out drive it to the local auto zone or other crap parts store that offers free electrical testing and see what the come up with.
 
Comments in red^^^

With a little maintenance to fix those minute issues, you're good to go!

Listen to what [MENTION=56044]downpour11[/MENTION] siad, thats all great advice and the exact thing I would have suggested for each issue. Also, with reference to your "lack" of mechanical skills, let me just say this. 2 years ago I didnt know what the hell an oil filter even looked like, no joke. I decided I was going to either start working on my t4r or it was getting sold. I joined this forum and just started reading and reading and reading. I am comfortable with about 60% of the vehicle now. I am still working on my knowledge of engines, but with time and reading I'll learn what I need to know. Chances are if your having a problem, someone here has already had it and has already writing a thread on how to fix it. So do a nice little search, try to find your issue, otherwise start a thread and we will all help you out. For the most part everyone here is helpful and nice, there are some very very knowledgeable people on here. Yea you occasionally get your jerk or two but not so much, so just brush them off. Goodluck and feel free to ask away! btw rust is your enemy!!!!!
 
I would place all of my money for your electrical issues on a bad alternator or bad battery. I HIGHLY doubt the wiring between the battery and the alt is screwy. You should get the battery tested and then if that checks out you will have to pull the alternator and have an autoparts store bench test it.

I have had what you are describing happen to me, and it turned out to be the alternator.

Here is a tut on how to pull the alternator if it comes to that:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/143711-diy-replacing-3rd-gen-alternator.html

One thing I can suggest is that don't pull the mud flaps in the wheel well like they show, everything can be done from the top just as simple. It took me about 10 minutes to pull the alternator on mine when it went. I actually ended up doing the whole swap in the parking lot of Advanced Autoparts and was in and out in a half hour.

Really kicked my post to the curb there. Haha!
But yes, bad alternator makes much more sense now.
 
Really kicked my post to the curb there. Haha!
But yes, bad alternator makes much more sense now.

Haha It wasn't directed at you. I just have seen several people recommend the big 3 upgrade as a remedy to electrical problems, where it is not a real fix, but more of a "performance" mod.
 
So I finally had time to take the truck into the parts store and have them test the battery and alternator. Seems both alternator and battery are good. I checked the belts and they appear new and in good shape as well. I didn't find any loose connections either (though admittedly I may have missed it).

One thing the guy who came out and tested it said that stuck with me, is that the alternator was peaking up to 15.1 volts then dropping back down to normal.

This got me to thinking that perhaps I'm looking at this the wrong way. Maybe the lights aren't dimming during the pulse, but getting brighter instead. In other words, the lights are just pulsing brighter than normal when the alternator hits 15.1 volts.

I don't know enough about this stuff to know if that is even possible but it certainly seems like it could.

I've noticed that the engine seems to lope at idle when the "pulse" happens and since I have an ABS light on my dash that's on (will be dealing with that later) I can see easily even during the day, that the "pulse" is still happening even when I'm at highway speeds.

It seems to come and go, but when it stops—it usually starts again if I hit the brakes.

I was really hoping for a simple explanation like a crap alternator or battery, but I guess I better grab some Scooby snacks and settle in for a deeper mystery.
 
Listen to what [MENTION=56044]downpour11[/MENTION] siad, thats all great advice and the exact thing I would have suggested for each issue. Also, with reference to your "lack" of mechanical skills, let me just say this. 2 years ago I didnt know what the hell an oil filter even looked like, no joke. I decided I was going to either start working on my t4r or it was getting sold. I joined this forum and just started reading and reading and reading. I am comfortable with about 60% of the vehicle now. I am still working on my knowledge of engines, but with time and reading I'll learn what I need to know. Chances are if your having a problem, someone here has already had it and has already writing a thread on how to fix it. So do a nice little search, try to find your issue, otherwise start a thread and we will all help you out. For the most part everyone here is helpful and nice, there are some very very knowledgeable people on here. Yea you occasionally get your jerk or two but not so much, so just brush them off. Goodluck and feel free to ask away! btw rust is your enemy!!!!!

Your story gives me hope!

This place really is a Mecca for all things 4runner! I've learned a ton already.

Many thxs to everyone who is part of this forum.
 

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