zacattack20's Matte Blue ‘98 to '02 Sport Edition - Not the normal build thread
- Thread starter zacattack20
- Start date
zacattack20
New member
It's a Pioneer FH-X700BT. I got it for $120 off amazon. Its a pretty great radio for the price.
I've been wanting to go up there. Just haven't had any time. Hopefully soon I should be able to. I'll let you know. There isn't anything too close to the trail that would scratch my paint? That's my only worry. Haha.
TRDteen
New member
There may be a few branches sticking out and a few plants that youll hit. But nothing serious that will stick out like a sore thumb. A good old wash and wax will make it look brand new again. As soon as I get my new 4Runner, I'll most likely be there every day haha :bluejump:
zacattack20
New member
Yeah I can't really fully wax or buff my paint. But it's kinda like a fire road isn't it?
TRDteen
New member
I'll PM you my number and we'll set up a date and time. maybe [MENTION=25058]ChildrenOfBodom[/MENTION] will tag along too :wave: Yeah, its a really easy trail with bumps and turns here and there.
ChildrenOfBodom
Moderator
I'd hardly call it a trail... It's more like a bumpy road, with dust and pebbles. It's when you get off to the side that you'll have fun on the rocks. There's some slightly rocky parts and some really rocky nasty parts.
Now you are both 2WD.... Luckily I have an ARB recovery strap courtesy of T4ROTM March 2012. Get stuck all you want, I'll help you.
Now you are both 2WD.... Luckily I have an ARB recovery strap courtesy of T4ROTM March 2012. Get stuck all you want, I'll help you.
zacattack20
New member
Alright sounds good. Probably still a few weeks though until I have time.
zacattack20
New member
New tires
BFG All Terrain 265-70-17
BFG All Terrain 265-70-17
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zacattack20
New member
Installed OME 906 coils in the rear.
While taking off the front drivers side tire to adjust the front coilovers, I broke off a wheel stud. Stupid guy at the tire place from last week just impacted the crap out of the lug nuts. Passengers side were too tight as well but luckily I didn't break one of those off. Punched it out and replaced the stud and lug nut for $7 from autozone.
Also hadn't realized that oem toyota pads were supposed to have shims so installed those.
Adjusted the coilovers. Raised them up 1/2 inch of threading on each side.
Since I installed the Tacoma LBJ's, the tie rod end would hit the crappy end links from the addco sway bars at full lock and make a disgusting scraping noise. And I needed some longer ones since I was lifting it a little more. I picked up front moog end links from rockauto for $35, and for the rear I got 2nd gen end links for $24. The tie rods now no longer hit and so no more disgusting noise.
Old front end link.
New front end link.
Installed.
New rear end link.
Installed.
Done.
While taking off the front drivers side tire to adjust the front coilovers, I broke off a wheel stud. Stupid guy at the tire place from last week just impacted the crap out of the lug nuts. Passengers side were too tight as well but luckily I didn't break one of those off. Punched it out and replaced the stud and lug nut for $7 from autozone.
Also hadn't realized that oem toyota pads were supposed to have shims so installed those.
Adjusted the coilovers. Raised them up 1/2 inch of threading on each side.
Since I installed the Tacoma LBJ's, the tie rod end would hit the crappy end links from the addco sway bars at full lock and make a disgusting scraping noise. And I needed some longer ones since I was lifting it a little more. I picked up front moog end links from rockauto for $35, and for the rear I got 2nd gen end links for $24. The tie rods now no longer hit and so no more disgusting noise.
Old front end link.
New front end link.
Installed.
New rear end link.
Installed.
Done.
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ghkdkrtfuyhu
New member
Thanks. Yeah I didn't really have the time before to put the effort into a build thread.
zacattack20
New member
Did a few maintenance things.
TRD O shaped throttle body gasket.
PCV valve and grommet.
Steering rack guide
OEM fuel filter, had replaced with a cheap one 50k miles ago and decided I should put an OEM one on.
Steering rack guide installed. Couldn't get the old one off by hand so I put a wrench on the guide bolt and then used a jack to slowly jack up the wrench and that worked perfectly.
Did the seafoam for a second time. Last time was like 50,000 miles ago so their wasnt massive amounts of smoke. Last time I did it through the brake booster, this time I did it through the PCV line.
And then also replaced spark plugs and wires.
I've also been having a weird rough idle, and a misfire once, that was always there whether in park, neutral, or drive. I've read since doing my timing belt, that a loose crankshaft bolt can cause issues like that, and when doing my timing belt, I didn't have a torque wrench that went to 217 ft lbs so I just used an impact. So I figured I would try the cheap fix first and see if this would fix my idle issue. Rented a torque wrench from autozone. Purchased a piece of wood and two grade 8 bolts for a couple bucks. Drilled a big hole in the center for the socket to get through, and then two 3/8 holes 7.5cm apart on each side of the big hole. Just had to remove the fan and radiator shroud. Put the piece of wood against the frame and torqued down. It worked perfectly. On the way home I still noticed a slight rough idle, not as bad as before, but now when I put it in neutral or park it went away, so now I believe it is transmission related.
TRD O shaped throttle body gasket.
PCV valve and grommet.
Steering rack guide
OEM fuel filter, had replaced with a cheap one 50k miles ago and decided I should put an OEM one on.
Steering rack guide installed. Couldn't get the old one off by hand so I put a wrench on the guide bolt and then used a jack to slowly jack up the wrench and that worked perfectly.
Did the seafoam for a second time. Last time was like 50,000 miles ago so their wasnt massive amounts of smoke. Last time I did it through the brake booster, this time I did it through the PCV line.
And then also replaced spark plugs and wires.
I've also been having a weird rough idle, and a misfire once, that was always there whether in park, neutral, or drive. I've read since doing my timing belt, that a loose crankshaft bolt can cause issues like that, and when doing my timing belt, I didn't have a torque wrench that went to 217 ft lbs so I just used an impact. So I figured I would try the cheap fix first and see if this would fix my idle issue. Rented a torque wrench from autozone. Purchased a piece of wood and two grade 8 bolts for a couple bucks. Drilled a big hole in the center for the socket to get through, and then two 3/8 holes 7.5cm apart on each side of the big hole. Just had to remove the fan and radiator shroud. Put the piece of wood against the frame and torqued down. It worked perfectly. On the way home I still noticed a slight rough idle, not as bad as before, but now when I put it in neutral or park it went away, so now I believe it is transmission related.
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Whitson Metalworks
New member
I freakin love the paint, always had a thing for satin black. Nice build you have going!!
zacattack20
New member
The washer nozzles on our 4runners suck. I had tried some pilot brand nozzles from autozone for around $10 and those had somewhat of a decent spray but they had a little metal ball where the spray was that kept blowing out when I would use the washer fluid. So I returned those and put my stock ones back on. I then purchased some washer nozzles off ebay from china that were for a toyota hilux for around $15. They are supposed to have more of a spray to them.
The only thing with these is that the hose connection goes straight out instead of to the side.
So I had to do some mangling of the under layer of the hood. Before I cleaned it up a little and then some spray paint.
As they were they shot too low on the windshield. There are two clips that keep the nozzle on, one in the front and one in the back. I cut the front one, closer to the windshield, in half so that I could raise up the front of the nozzle so that it would aim higher on the windshield. I then took the rubber seal thing off the old washer nozzles, folded them in half and put them under the new nozzle to hold it tight in place. The nozzles hit perfectly on the windshield. They don't have quite a mist spray on the windshield but they are an improvement over the stock nozzles.
The only thing with these is that the hose connection goes straight out instead of to the side.
So I had to do some mangling of the under layer of the hood. Before I cleaned it up a little and then some spray paint.
As they were they shot too low on the windshield. There are two clips that keep the nozzle on, one in the front and one in the back. I cut the front one, closer to the windshield, in half so that I could raise up the front of the nozzle so that it would aim higher on the windshield. I then took the rubber seal thing off the old washer nozzles, folded them in half and put them under the new nozzle to hold it tight in place. The nozzles hit perfectly on the windshield. They don't have quite a mist spray on the windshield but they are an improvement over the stock nozzles.
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zacattack20
New member
For my iPhone 4 I had a dock style charger that plugged into a cigarette lighter that I had put in the shifter surround. Here is an old picture of it.
Since I got my iPhone 5 last year, and since they changed the connector, I've just been using a little socket in the cigarette lighter and a cable and I've hated the ugliness of the cable laying around all over when I needed to charge it and not having my phone in a visible place. I decided to take apart the old dock and put in the iPhone lighting cable.
I drilled and cut out the hole in the base for the lighting connector and put the cable in.
I then filled that with epoxy to hold the cable in place and clipped everything back together. And then I epoxied a heavy duty magnet from an old name badge to the back of the housing.
To power it, I connected the iPhone cable to a retractable USB cable and then plugged that into the socket charger and that into a wired cigarette lighter. I then taped that all together.
Retractable USB cable.
While I was in there wiring up the wired cigarette lighter, I cleaned up all the mess of wires I had in there from before.
To attach the phone holder using the magnet, I made a bracket out of a metal strap from Home Depot.
Bent to the shape of the dash.
I then painted it black. I attached it to the top screw of the radio and then also added another screw to the side of the dash.
I had to trim some of the radio bezel around the bracket so that the bezel would sit flush and so the cable could go through. Due to the magnet and retractable cable I can take the mount off the bracket easily and bring to myself and then it will retract and attach back to the bracket with the magnet. The magnet holds strong enough as I drove over speed bumps fairly quickly on the way home and it didn't even move.
Since I got my iPhone 5 last year, and since they changed the connector, I've just been using a little socket in the cigarette lighter and a cable and I've hated the ugliness of the cable laying around all over when I needed to charge it and not having my phone in a visible place. I decided to take apart the old dock and put in the iPhone lighting cable.
I drilled and cut out the hole in the base for the lighting connector and put the cable in.
I then filled that with epoxy to hold the cable in place and clipped everything back together. And then I epoxied a heavy duty magnet from an old name badge to the back of the housing.
To power it, I connected the iPhone cable to a retractable USB cable and then plugged that into the socket charger and that into a wired cigarette lighter. I then taped that all together.
Retractable USB cable.
While I was in there wiring up the wired cigarette lighter, I cleaned up all the mess of wires I had in there from before.
To attach the phone holder using the magnet, I made a bracket out of a metal strap from Home Depot.
Bent to the shape of the dash.
I then painted it black. I attached it to the top screw of the radio and then also added another screw to the side of the dash.
I had to trim some of the radio bezel around the bracket so that the bezel would sit flush and so the cable could go through. Due to the magnet and retractable cable I can take the mount off the bracket easily and bring to myself and then it will retract and attach back to the bracket with the magnet. The magnet holds strong enough as I drove over speed bumps fairly quickly on the way home and it didn't even move.
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BlackCat914
New member
The truck isn't my cup of tea, but I certainly admire all the work you've done to it. Nice job!
zacattack20
New member
Fog light switch for my fog lights I got and installed last year and have yet to wire. Still need to wire them up, just installed the switch while changing the instrument cluster lens.
I posted another thread about the instrument cluster lens. This is from that......
My instrument cluster lens is scratched and I want to get a new one.
The '96-'98 is $52
The '99-'02 is $22
Obviously the instrument cluster changed in '99 but I can't see what the difference would be in just the lens. The trip miles reset looks to be in the same position. Anyone know, possibly somebody that has two 4runners in the different year ranges, what the possible difference could be? Or someone with a '99-'02 that has some good pictures of their instrument cluster so I could compare to mine.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I picked up the '99-'02 cluster lens today and installed it and it fit with no problems. It had the same numbers in the lower right corner of the plastic.
I also was looking more online and some Toyota sites had the part number for the '99-'02, 83852-3D200, fitting the '98 as well. I know some '98's that came with the old style steering wheel and then like mine with the newer style steering wheel. So there could something with the '96-'98.5 years that had the older steering wheel that it wont fit. Just a possibility that I'm throwing out there. The part number for the $52 lens is 83852-35020. I'm really curious what the difference could be though, that its a $30 difference.
Old lens, it just wasn't clear and had little spots and scratches that I couldnt clean off.
New lens. Nice and clear.
I posted another thread about the instrument cluster lens. This is from that......
My instrument cluster lens is scratched and I want to get a new one.
The '96-'98 is $52
The '99-'02 is $22
Obviously the instrument cluster changed in '99 but I can't see what the difference would be in just the lens. The trip miles reset looks to be in the same position. Anyone know, possibly somebody that has two 4runners in the different year ranges, what the possible difference could be? Or someone with a '99-'02 that has some good pictures of their instrument cluster so I could compare to mine.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I picked up the '99-'02 cluster lens today and installed it and it fit with no problems. It had the same numbers in the lower right corner of the plastic.
I also was looking more online and some Toyota sites had the part number for the '99-'02, 83852-3D200, fitting the '98 as well. I know some '98's that came with the old style steering wheel and then like mine with the newer style steering wheel. So there could something with the '96-'98.5 years that had the older steering wheel that it wont fit. Just a possibility that I'm throwing out there. The part number for the $52 lens is 83852-35020. I'm really curious what the difference could be though, that its a $30 difference.
Old lens, it just wasn't clear and had little spots and scratches that I couldnt clean off.
New lens. Nice and clear.
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zacattack20
New member
Yeah I was thinking about just polishing it, especially if it would have been $50 for it, but for $20 I figured it wasn't much more than buying some polish.
eace:
zacattack20
New member
I have the viper 5701 alarm and remote start. Its pretty much the same alarm as the even more expensive ones just with a different remote. It had this smaller remote instead of the ones with a screen, which is the reason I liked this one better, because the remote was smaller.
Too bad the remote is a piece of crap. Its all beat up, I only keep the remote with the car key and no other keys. The batteries would die so quickly and like $7 at a time to replace them. Even after replacing them, it would play its little song to tell me that the batteries were low because the case was loose on the remote. I dropped it once in my apartment and the whole thing just exploded into a bunch of pieces and then it no longer would make any sounds.
I decided to get a new remote and get one of the better ones with the screen because it has a rechargeable battery. I plan on keeping it completely separate from my keys so it doesn't get all scratched up and I have some things waiting to be delivered to add a push start button and completely get rid of the key.
I was going to get the 7351v remote because their website says that's compatible with the 5701 system. Good thing I did some research into it before I bought it. My system was manufactured in 2009 and the 7351v remote would only work on systems manufactured after April of 2010. I couldn't find anyone online that had come up with a definite way for it to work. Some people said you had to change the antenna, and for some that worked and for others that didn't. The only thing for sure was to replace with a completely different antenna, a 6711T antenna and use the 7752v remote. The difference in the remote is that it has a longer range and its supposed to be more expensive, but the remote was the same price on eBay. Since I had to replace the antenna with whichever remote I got, it didn't end up being any extra getting the better remote. I got the remote for $80 and the antenna for $45, which was still more than I paid for my whole system to begin with.
As for the antenna, I think it looks disgusting on the dash or the windshield, so I had installed it in the roof, behind the rearview mirror assembly. The range isn't as good being there, but it still works from plenty far. I didn't have to replace the antenna wire to the alarm brain, just unplugged the old antenna and plugged in the new one.
It looks like a mess of wires but those are for the ambient LEDs. I had to cut the little piece of the roof to get the antenna in and out. I just bend it back and put some tape over it so it doesn't cut anything.
New antenna hanging down
Too bad the remote is a piece of crap. Its all beat up, I only keep the remote with the car key and no other keys. The batteries would die so quickly and like $7 at a time to replace them. Even after replacing them, it would play its little song to tell me that the batteries were low because the case was loose on the remote. I dropped it once in my apartment and the whole thing just exploded into a bunch of pieces and then it no longer would make any sounds.
I decided to get a new remote and get one of the better ones with the screen because it has a rechargeable battery. I plan on keeping it completely separate from my keys so it doesn't get all scratched up and I have some things waiting to be delivered to add a push start button and completely get rid of the key.
I was going to get the 7351v remote because their website says that's compatible with the 5701 system. Good thing I did some research into it before I bought it. My system was manufactured in 2009 and the 7351v remote would only work on systems manufactured after April of 2010. I couldn't find anyone online that had come up with a definite way for it to work. Some people said you had to change the antenna, and for some that worked and for others that didn't. The only thing for sure was to replace with a completely different antenna, a 6711T antenna and use the 7752v remote. The difference in the remote is that it has a longer range and its supposed to be more expensive, but the remote was the same price on eBay. Since I had to replace the antenna with whichever remote I got, it didn't end up being any extra getting the better remote. I got the remote for $80 and the antenna for $45, which was still more than I paid for my whole system to begin with.
As for the antenna, I think it looks disgusting on the dash or the windshield, so I had installed it in the roof, behind the rearview mirror assembly. The range isn't as good being there, but it still works from plenty far. I didn't have to replace the antenna wire to the alarm brain, just unplugged the old antenna and plugged in the new one.
It looks like a mess of wires but those are for the ambient LEDs. I had to cut the little piece of the roof to get the antenna in and out. I just bend it back and put some tape over it so it doesn't cut anything.
New antenna hanging down
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