ZachAttack's Build Thread - 2004 Sport Edition

[ZachAttack]

Changed spark plugs at 105k miles

Well, I had some store credit at Autozone, so I went ahead and bought some spark plugs.

NGK Laser Iridiums. About $8 per plug.

It was pretty simple (although I only did the driver's side last night...see NOTES below).

Remove electrical plug from coil pack.
Unscrew coil pack bolt.
Remove coil pack.

Use spark plug socket (I think it was a 5/8") and extension to loosen plug.
Use long needle-nose pliers to grab loose plug.
Inspect (use one of the charts here). (I couldn't tell any obvious shortcomings here. Just looked old.)

Apply anti-seize to new plug.
Tighten by hand, then tighten gently with ratchet while compressing the crush washer.
Tighten a little more once washer is compressed. (Don't overdo this. You don't want to ruin the threads or break off the plug.)

IMPORTANT NOTES:
Do not drop the small coil pack bolt somewhere in the engine compartment.
If you do, you'll then accidentally drop the socket in there too.
Then, you have to remove the skid plates, look for 30 minutes.
Then you still won't be able to find it.
Crawl under the car.
Feel around.
Get grease everywhere.
Then, find the socket (wuhoo!!), but still can't find the bolt.
Convince yourself that the bolt isn't in the drivetrain.
Start car (coil pack snug to the plug, but not bolted).
Put car in reverse.
Back up quickly.
Slam on brakes.
Hear bolt hit the ground.
Get out, look around.
Find bolt.
Attach bolt.
Celebrate.
Then realize dinner is on the table and you can't do the passenger side plugs until tomorrow.
Doh!

 

[Gatafly]

Just curious why you needed a needle nose pliers to remove plug if you used a spark plug socket? Sounds like you lost the rubber cushion insert in the socket.

 

[ZachAttack]

Just curious why you needed a needle nose pliers to remove plug if you used a spark plug socket? Sounds like you lost the rubber cushion insert in the socket.

They make a rubber insert? That would have helped.

(My socket was a one-off from harbor freight. Need to put a nice set of deep sockets on the birthday list.)

 

[superman3043]

I've got a pretty good tip regarding this. If you're spark plug socket doesn't pull it out, stick your coil end back down in the tube and it should pluck it right out.

 

[gaterose]

Just be ready for some effort.

Truer words have not been spoken.

Changed my LCA bushings this morning, sorry to clog up your thread but I just wanted to say thanks again for the inspiration and write-up! Took about 9 hours. But that included removing/adjusting my COs & searching for a lost nut for over an hour, then waiting another hour for my girlfriend to bring me a replacement.

The grinding/torching was very tedious and I don't understand how you peeled the rubber from the bushing, I had to use a bench grinder with a wire wheel for about 15 min/bushing. I was completely covered in rubber particles..

The results seem impressive, I'll know more after I get it re-aligned. I believe I had misdiagnosed my caliper/rotor as well.

 

[ZachAttack]

The grinding/torching was very tedious and I don't understand how you peeled the rubber from the bushing, I had to use a bench grinder with a wire wheel for about 15 min/bushing. I was completely covered in rubber particles...

I think for the inner metal bushing, I was able to torch it from the inside out. I might have neglected to mention that I made a lengthwise slice in the rubber bushing also. That way, when it heated up (~20 minutes of heating), I was able to "unpeel" the rubber bushing from around the metal inner bushing.

Even so, some of the rubber stayed on the metal, so I spent 15 minutes over the wire brush cleaning it up, too.

I'm ready to start on the rears, but I wasn't able to easily press out the old bushings, so I put it back together and need to find a day where I have access to a machine shop.

 

[ZachAttack]

I've got a pretty good tip regarding this. If you're spark plug socket doesn't pull it out, stick your coil end back down in the tube and it should pluck it right out.

This was an excellent tip, and helped greatly when I finished the passenger side.

There was one plug that I still had to use my skinny pliers for, though. Other than that, it worked great. Thanks.

 

[ZachAttack]

Not much a writeup, but I managed to the the rear lower control arm bushings changed. If you're keeping count, I still need to do the front and rear Upper Control Arm bushings.

I've been having pulsation while braking, and after replacing the rear pads, rotors, and flushing the system, I figured I'd better check out the bushings in the rear (same as the front, chased a shimmy while braking to the control arm bushings, and replacing them fixed it).

Anyway, here come the pictures. I didn't mess around with cutting them out myself. I took them to a machine shop to have them pressed out. Turns out he couldn't press them out, so instead of charging me $5 to press them all out, he charged me $30 and cut them out.

Empty control arms, before cleaning.

Then, I got dirty, and stopped snapping pictures, but here's the end result.

It took my pulsation while braking down to about half, so I'm assuming the upper rear control arm bushings are also bad, and I'll need to do those soon.

Just have to find time.

 

[ZachAttack]

Trasmission problem fixed, $6.

So for the last few weeks, I've been dealing with this "transmission problem" and trying to deny that I need to take it into a shop.

At a stoplight, with my foot firmly on the brake, I can feel the drivetrain trying to engage, lurching. This was NOT the air conditioning compressor cycling that I've heard some people talking about. It happens about once a second, although sometimes faster. The engine lugs a little (RPMS go down) right as the lurch occurs. Lurch (one second) Lurch (one second) Lurch Lurch. The lasts about the same time as it would take you to say "lurch."

If I shift to neutral, it goes away. Happens in reverse, too.

I had the fiance sit in the car with her foot on the brake and the car in drive (and reverse...same symptom), and I looked underneath. Both driveshafts turn a little, then back off, just as it happens.

I think this means that the torque converter (which allows disengagement while stopped, right?) is trying to reengage while I'm stopped. Not keeping the drivetrain disengaged.

Having read that it could be low ATF, I already added a quart of ATF, then re-leveled with the overfill plug once warm...just wanted to make sure it wasn't low fluid. Also, checked the transfer case oil. Still fairly fresh, and plenty full.

So, I finally took it into the Tx shop. "I have a transmission problem." So, the nice gentleman behind the counter said, "what are you driving?"

"2004 4Runner."

(laughing ensues)..."You don't have a transmission problem. Those don't break. Let's go look at it."

So, he came outside, agreed that to someone like me, it would feel like a torque converter thing.

Then, he said, "I bet you just replaced your spark plugs."

(OH CRAP.) "yes, I did."

"You have a good ole MISFIRE."

Then, the nice man told me his shop wasn't busy, and that for a small fee (not the $4k I was prepared to swallow to replace the tranny), he could tell me which cylinder it was. I thought about taking it home to replace them all again, and realized my time and materials would be about $100 anyway, so what the heck, I'll have him look.

In five minutes, he assured me that all my plugs were good, but that I must've cracked the coil pack boot. it was about 1 cm long, right where the coil pack spring and spark plug meet. The spark was jumping through the boot to the head. We called around for a new boot ("we don't sell them individually, but you can buy a whole coil pack for $130.") He then helped me find rockauto.com, where you can get them for $4, plus $2 for shipping.

So, he put some electrical tape on the boot "JUST TO GET YOU HOME, DON'T GO JOYRIDING OR ANYTHING".

Boot from rockauto is on its way, and now my $4k transmission problem has been fixed for $6.

Huge weight lifted off the shoulders.

 

[Casper421]

When you removed the lower links, did you jack up the rig or keep it on the ground?

 

[ZachAttack]

When you removed the lower links, did you jack up the rig or keep it on the ground?

I couldn't decide which would have less pressure on the control arms, so I split the difference.

I didn't want to jack up the frame, and have the wheels hanging from the shocks, pressure compressing the control arms...

I didn't want to jack up the axle, with the frame then being supported between the shocks, springs, and control arms.

So, I jacked up the frame about halfway between full weight on wheels and wheels just lifted off. (Jacked a little more than halfway, then insert jackstands, and lowered it to "halfway")

I was then able to pretty easily remove and insert the bolts for the arms.

 

[ZachAttack]

Hello everyone. I bought an FJ cruiser fog light switch and harness last year (2012) for my 4th Gen 4Runner. I have yet to buy any aux lights to wire them to, and I need the cash.

Never installed. Includes harness. Picture used from THIS LINK, but mine is exactly the same.

$65 shipped CONUS. Paypal only. PM me for paypal email address.
__________________

 

[coyote92]

Well, I got an email this afternoon from UPS stating that my Urban Runner Roof Rack had arrived, so you can imagine my excitement upon seeing the HUGE box at the front door.

Anyway, I got it unpacked and got to work taking off my current rack. (I think I am going to try to sell my current (stock) rack in the classifieds, so I'm going to take a couple pictures. Here's the original rack, still in pretty good condition. (It has a couple chips of paint missing, but otherwise is in great condition.):

Then, I spent about 45 minutes trying to figure out how to pop off the covers in the four corners. Once that was done, I got the rest of the rack taken off. The runner looks so naked without a roof rack.

Once I got the new one mocked up on the ground, I snapped this pic for comparison. (Sorry, should have included the decorative pieces on both racks. Use your imagination.)

And of course Toyota decides to use a (T40-size) star bit for the attach bolts for the Urban Runner rack. Do I have a star bit? YES! Is it a T-40? NOPE.

So, off to Autozone to buy a whole set. By the time I got home, I got everything installed, but the pictures at night didn't do it justice. I'll try to grab one before leaving for work tomorrow.

But, I'm very happy with the new rack. It actually looks much more rugged than the normal rack, which is a little too sleek (and silver) for me. If you are interested in the old rack, let me know. I don't want to make a lot of money off of it, just want to get it out of the garage, and figured someone here would be happier with it than the garbage man.

More pics in the morning, I promise.

EDIT: Here they are!

do you still have your chrome racks?

 

[loconzly]

I really like this thread. I've found it informative. I like it when people share their experiences, including their mistakes. It really helps us to know what to expect. Thanks!