Zero point calibration help please

[pearlj10]

Today I flushed my power steering fluid by jacking front wheels just off the ground, removing return hose, and turning wheel left to right with truck off (with help, obviously) while keeping fluid topped off. Flush went great. Had wife start truck while front tires were still off ground and turn wheel left to right to bleed any air and check fluid level. All is good. Lowered truck down off jack and cleaned up. Then started truck again and VSC OFF, TRAC, & ABS lights are on . Tried the zero point calibration, which I've done a dozen times before, following the FSM instructions and tips also posted on this forum (using the two wires to short out the two terminals). After short/open 4 or more times in 8 seconds I can get just VSC light to stay on, which is supposed to indicate that I cleared the calibration setting. However, when I shut ignition off, remove wires from terminals, and turn ignition back on, the VSC, TRACK $ ABS lights are on and NONE of them go off after 15 seconds. I cannot get far enough through the calibration phase to get the VSC light off, then reconnect the two lead wires to terminals, turn ignition on, and wait for the lights to blink fast. Can someone please tell me what I may be missing here? Vehicle was parked on level ground with steering wheel straight. I tried the procedure about 10 times today, with no luck. I current
have battery cable off, seeing if that helps delete any code...
Thanks in advance for any tips

 

[SSt4r]

Just a thought as you raised front wheels (full droop) and turned fully lock to lock: check the ABS speed sensor wires. If over stretched, one may have failed? That will trip those lights.

 

[pearlj10]

Thanks for the tip. I sure did break the right front ABS sensor wire while turning the wheel all the way to the right with the suspension at max droop. I run Icon COs and, at least on my truck, the sensor wire gets pinched against the coil at full turn/droop. It would be hard, but not impossible, to replicate that condition in the field, but I was a bit surprised. I ended up modifying the bracket that holds the ABS sensor wire to the steering knuckle, so that the wire runs inside of the bracket, not outside. That protects it better and allows for another 1/8" or so of clearance between the wire and the coil. All better now.

Just a thought as you raised front wheels (full droop) and turned fully lock to lock: check the ABS speed sensor wires. If over stretched, one may have failed? That will trip those lights.

 

[Oneluv13T4R]

Just a thought as you raised front wheels (full droop) and turned fully lock to lock: check the ABS speed sensor wires. If over stretched, one may have failed? That will trip those lights.

Nice work brotha, good call. I overlooked that idea/remedy as I was reading the op's issue.

 

[RonJR]

That's a good tip. I'm going to (carefully) check my ABS wiring (and brake lines, CV joints, etc.) at full-droop and full lock. I checked full droop at straight ahead, and full lock at normal suspension loading, but neglected to do the combination.

 

[pearlj10]

What surprised me is that the driver's side was not even close to having the ABS sensor wire hit the coil at full droop/turn, while the passenger's side was obviously an issue. I should've mentioned I run Icon 2.5" COs, so the 2.0 or even Bilstein 6100/5112 or OMEs shouldn't pose a problem.

That's a good tip. I'm going to (carefully) check my ABS wiring (and brake lines, CV joints, etc.) at full-droop and full lock. I checked full droop at straight ahead, and full lock at normal suspension loading, but neglected to do the combination.