Finally! 3D printed SR5 Mudflaps and Flare End Caps (free download)

Everytime I see this thread pop up I give a shout out to [MENTION=146407]Plastics guy[/MENTION]. Not sure if he decided they weren't worth the profit margin to produce?
 
I don't see them on his list of products for the 3rd Gen. Did I miss something? I will literally order some today if I can find them.
He is on the forum here BH3D of something he'll get back to you soon and ships very fast. I just ordered a set of the cup holders and they were her in 4 days.
 
He is on the forum here BH3D of something he'll get back to you soon and ships very fast. I just ordered a set of the cup holders and they were her in 4 days.

He got back to me and I asked for a set. They indeed are not available on his website because his plastics guys hates having to do them apparently. I've got a 3D printed set now, but I've torn them to hell with the rub I've got in that area. Getting ready for a front-end rebuild and re-gear to fix the problem and am hoping to get a new set to replace the old. His quote was $80 shipped :mullet:
 
Ordered and paid for!! Thanks [MENTION=211420]Wedgy[/MENTION] for the tip. I've been looking for another set for a while and annoyingly hounding [MENTION=146407]Plastics guy[/MENTION]. Funny thing is though, to show what it is that he is producing (to make sure we're on the same page) he sent me the pictures that [MENTION=386688]jerbrun0515[/MENTION] posted earlier in the thread. Are they the same person? Not sure. If so, thanks dude!!

The set I'm currently running was from [MENTION=100116]D Farms[/MENTION] (linkery)

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These are the ones plastics guy designed but BH3D(Brad Hicks) printed. I think Brad said he modified it slightly in some way. I don't care I needed them and would take anything after what I went thru LOL
I was a bit disappointed that my new sliders got sandblasted on their 1st trip out, I put a lot of time in on the paint & prep. Stubbs Welding is going to get back to me on a possible fix.
 

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These are the ones plastics guy designed but BH3D(Brad Hicks) printed. I think Brad said he modified it slightly in some way. I don't care I needed them and would take anything after what I went thru LOL
I was a bit disappointed that my new sliders got sandblasted on their 1st trip out, I put a lot of time in on the paint & prep. Stubbs Welding is going to get back to me on a possible fix.

What are you using for paint? I painted my Stubb HD-SKO's with rustoleum in a bedroom converted to a paint booth and I've not yet had an issue with them getting sandblasted. Not that I'm constantly driving down dirt roads at high speed, but I've probably done 200-300 miles worth of that in the 3 years I've had them on. Last I talked to Stubb's he was lamenting about possible having to shut down shop:sad:

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I degreased, scuffed, cleaned, dried, etc. then red oxide primer two coats, plenty of warm drying time then several coats of hammered finish and lots of warm drying time. No runs, drips, etc. I've done a bit of body work and painted a few panels and motorcycles but never a whole car. We did ~150 miles of aired down wash board dirt roads @30 mph and ~35 miles of 4x4 @ 5 mph I think it needs a bit more mud flap to catch stuff thrown off the front tire. BTW if you've never been to Saline Valley Hot Springs it's well worth going but about 50 miles of bumpy washboard each way.
 

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These are the ones plastics guy designed but BH3D(Brad Hicks) printed. I think Brad said he modified it slightly in some way. I don't care I needed them and would take anything after what I went thru LOL

I was a bit disappointed that my new sliders got sandblasted on their 1st trip out, I put a lot of time in on the paint & prep. Stubbs Welding is going to get back to me on a possible fix.



Here are mine I got from Brad as well. Ordered on Tuesday, got printed, prepped and painted and got to me on Saturday.

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Only bolted by the two bolts you see there. Install was pretty straightforward, took me about an hour cause the previous owner hammered the bottom mounting tab out of the way and I had to bend it back and fine tune the fitment.

Could’ve been sanded and prepped better but no big deal. These will hold me off until I get new fenders and Bushwacker flares.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ordered and paid for!! Thanks [MENTION=211420]Wedgy[/MENTION] for the tip. I've been looking for another set for a while and annoyingly hounding [MENTION=146407]Plastics guy[/MENTION]. Funny thing is though, to show what it is that he is producing (to make sure we're on the same page) he sent me the pictures that [MENTION=386688]jerbrun0515[/MENTION] posted earlier in the thread. Are they the same person? Not sure. If so, thanks dude!!

The set I'm currently running was from [MENTION=100116]D Farms[/MENTION] (linkery)

Got these last week. I had him refrain from painting since I'll hit them with the bed liner that is on the flares currently. It'll be a couple weeks before I install them so that I have a chance to make sure they'll clear and not end up in pieces like the current set on there:

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Those look really good. I'd recommend painting them with epoxy so they don't split over time on between the build layers. It will cost you $15 or so for a bottle of 3D XTC from SmoothOn but is well worth it in the long run.
 
Those look really good. I'd recommend painting them with epoxy so they don't split over time on between the build layers. It will cost you $15 or so for a bottle of 3D XTC from SmoothOn but is well worth it in the long run.

This is already part of the process that Brad uses (pure acetone) to finish these.
 
Not the same thing, but better than nothing I guess. The acetone is just chemically attacking the ABS plastic and in doing so will smooth out the surface. Epoxy adds a hard protective layer that smooths out the surface and ensures everything is water tight.
 
Designing a slightly different part

Hey there, I’m wondering if you’d be open to sharing the dimensions of the arcs on the piece? I just installed 4x-innovations sliders and they go basically all the way to the front wheel well, so I need to take the stubby fender and make it sit even tighter. If I have the arcs, I should be able to draw something up in autocad and I also have a 3D printer. I was also thinking of trying to print it with Flexible filament as it doesn’t really crack. You’ll of course receive full credit for all the work (I know the 3D scab was a pain) and I’m also happy to donate!

Let me know! If it works, It would be cool to add a third option to your thingiverse arsenal.
 

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