2020 fuse box diagrams?
- Thread starter jp.vegas
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Whippersnapper02
Senior Member
Did you check the fuse box on the driver side kick panel?
Not yet, no. In previous years it was under hood so that's where I went. I'll pull down the dash panel and check that at some point.
Interesting that it appears the 20s are totally different from an electrical architecture standpoint.
That makes perfect sense. There’s a DCM indicator and signal strength meter on the head unit. I’ll give that a try.
There’s clearly a lot of stuff that’s new if it necessitated the complete redesign of the fuse layout. That means a lot of changes to the wiring harness etc as well. Not a small undertaking and seemingly odd for a vehicle model ostensibly near the end of its service life.
My thinking is it has more to do with the mandatory inclusion of the TSS-P systems than anything else. There’s a lot to the changes for 2020 plus vehicles.
adrummingdude
New member
Funny how they went through the trouble of rewiring the whole truck for that system, just to slap that big ugly sensor on the front of the grill like an afterthought.
Well, that did it. Data collection disabled. Shame that basically kills the useful bits in the remote control app too but not surprising and really a small price to pay.
Anything that's ignition switched should work with an add-a-fuse under the hood (no room for add-a-fuse under the dash unless you ditch the cover). If you're following instructions that mention a specific fuse, you should be able to locate the same. Most of them should be named the same with the obvious exception of the old "mayday" fuse.
Danm. I was afraid of exactly that when I popped the cover off. I was looking to hardwire a radar detector using an add-a-fuse. Since the hardwire cord has an in-line fuse on it, would there be a better place to tap power without making any permanent modifications?
There’s power available in the mini console above the windshield and rear view mirror. You could tap into something there with a vampire tap. That’s only semi permanent. Only other place an add a fuse would fit is under the hood but then you need to run wiring back into the cab. Not that big of a deal either but I’d opt for something already inside if it was me.
A radar detector draws next to nothing, just about any existing circuit can handle that load.
I was going to use a "mirror tap" cable but had previously seen in another thread that that would not work for some reason. I'm going to revisit this whole idea. It's dark out now. I'll poke around tomorrow. Thanks for the tips [MENTION=444853]jp.vegas[/MENTION].
As long as you use a tap that's properly sized for the gauge of wire you're using, there shouldn't be an issue with it. Some people don't endorse using them for one reason or another, but properly done and in the right circumstance for something that's not mission critical, I don't have an issue with them. Running a radar detector is certainly appropriate.
While we're at it, does anyone know if and how to pop off the covers on the electronics on the actual windshield? I wanted to poke around in there and see if I could harmlessly tap power there. I didn't want to just rip them off, if they're adhered to the windshield or break any tabs that I might not be aware of. Thanks in advance for any help.
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