What did you do with your 4runner today?

Nahrah · Aug 17, 2020

originalg00kster said:
Did you disable your old 3rd brake light? Could you also tell me the sellers name? Thank you

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I just pulled the bulb out and put back the housing. I then used dorman Conduct-Tite Blue 16-14 Gauge T-Tap Terminal to spice into the original wire. I basically drilled three holes two for the bolt and one for the led brake light wire to go through. I also got 3m double sided molding tape to to secure it more even though it came attached with some foam seal. I also watched a video on youtube where a fellow 4th gen owner installed his.

Here's the ebay listing Factory Style Rear Roof Mount Painted Rear Spoiler Fits 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner | eBay
seller is autorestylers

Nahrah · Aug 17, 2020

Took a drive and ended up at a local watering hole.

Waited til it cooled down to tackle this abs pump motor replacement.

The new abs motor is a lot quieter, but still have the noise behind the dash when the pump kicks on. I'm starting to think its the accumulator. :shrug:

AuSeeker · Aug 17, 2020

Nahrah said:
Took a drive and ended up at a local watering hole.

Waited til it cooled down to tackle this abs pump motor replacement.

The new abs motor is a lot quieter, but still have the noise behind the dash when the pump kicks on. I'm starting to think its the accumulator. :shrug:

You're going to still hear the motor running, that's normal, NOW if it runs for a long time is when I would worry about the accumulator being bad, the motor running for around 10 second or so and then again after you depress the brake pedal 3 or 4 times is normal, any more often than that then it's possibly not hold pressure.

Nahrah · Aug 17, 2020

AuSeeker said:
You're going to still hear the motor running, that's normal, NOW if it runs for a long time is when I would worry about the accumulator being bad, the motor running for around 10 second or so and then again after you depress the brake pedal 3 or 4 times is normal, any more often than that then it's possibly not hold pressure.

Mine does it even when the brake pedal is not being pressed. Kicks on for 10sec then off then back on a few minutes later, but there's a screeching noise that goes along with it behind the dash. Started happening when I took a trip to Sequoia national Park.

AuSeeker · Aug 17, 2020

Nahrah said:
Mine does it even when the brake pedal is not being pressed. Kicks on for 10sec then off then back on a few minutes later, but there's a screeching noise that goes along with it behind the dash. Started happening when I took a trip to Sequoia national Park.

It sounds like the booster/ABS pump that the electric motor drives is going bad, IMHO.

Nahrah · Aug 17, 2020

AuSeeker said:
It sounds like the booster/ABS pump that the electric motor drives is going bad, IMHO.

That's what I'm afraid of.

aemravan · Aug 18, 2020

Finally got it aligned after the lift,, installed spidetrax, installed the awning and did the acme h1 super projector retrofit

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originalg00kster · Aug 18, 2020

Nahrah said:
I just pulled the bulb out and put back the housing. I then used dorman Conduct-Tite Blue 16-14 Gauge T-Tap Terminal to spice into the original wire. I basically drilled three holes two for the bolt and one for the led brake light wire to go through. I also got 3m double sided molding tape to to secure it more even though it came attached with some foam seal. I also watched a video on youtube where a fellow 4th gen owner installed his.

Here's the ebay listing Factory Style Rear Roof Mount Painted Rear Spoiler Fits 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner | eBay

seller is autorestylers

Thank you!

Swapped out my old hatch struts for some new ones. Simple swap and no more squeaking struts! It lifts up by itself now.

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Bluesky 07 · Aug 19, 2020

originalg00kster said:
Swapped out my old hatch struts for some new ones. Simple swap and no more squeaking struts! It lifts up by itself now.

I replaced these with aftermarket a couple of years ago and one of them just physically broke where it attached to the little ball at the bottom. Decided to go OEM this time when I found them for $33 each through Cobb County (Metro Atlanta) Toyota’s online parts store. Have to say the experience was great; placed the order on Monday morning, got the email that the parts were ready on Tuesday morning, and was in & out of the parts department in about 30 seconds that afternoon. I installed them this morning and the hatch operation is better than it’s ever been since I bought the truck in 2014.

I also spent $10 on some reflective insulation & about 30 minutes cutting some custom sunshades for the front side windows. I had a set for my Xterra and it makes a real difference over just having the windshield shade. In fact, if I lived out west & my truck sat outside all day, I would make a set for all around.

It’s easy to do, just cut a piece a little larger than the window, then hold it in place with one hand while you go around the edge of the window & crease the material with the other. Use the creases as a cutting guide, going a little bit outside the crease, then trim as needed for a snug fit.

T4Rmiller · Aug 20, 2020

himeeto69 said:
I was trying to get my TSC and VSC and check engine light off today Nothing worked as far as trying to recalibrate the zero thingy. Ordered a new gas cap so hoping that's all it is.

have you had the CEL codes read? in my case, the CEL code for Catalyst efficiency was causing the problem for me. Got rid of it by installing o2 sensor spacers. you could also replace the cats but thats big $$$$

nathanroyse · Aug 20, 2020

aemravan said:
Finally got it aligned after the lift,, installed spidetrax, installed the awning and did the acme h1 super projector retrofit

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Looks good man!

nathanroyse · Aug 20, 2020

aemravan said:
Installed some yellow flood lights on the rear part of the rack. Need to make an L shaped stand off bracket so I can kick them out a bit more and point down some.

And then another packaged showed up that I will hopefully have a chance to get done this weekend... its never ending

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I think i have the same lights but clear lol

kcdehart · Aug 20, 2020

Got out and wheeled/camped with a VW 1.8T-swapped Jeep friend of mine (I had to tow him twice, and the Jeep ended up needing to get towed home thanks to a dead wheel bearing and a blown rear main seal). BUT until that happened, we had a great time. I, unfortunately, need to do a looooot more trimming for the 295s. They're rubbing pretty badly on my rear mudflaps, and still rubbing on the pinch weld/firewall when flexing. Even after flattening all of that down :/

Also, I've apparently owned it 4 years as of today! It's come a long way...

aemravan said:
Finally got it aligned after the lift,, installed spidetrax, installed the awning and did the acme h1 super projector retrofit

I like that retrofit! Is there a thread detailing it somewhere?

aemravan · Aug 20, 2020

Thanks man, good looking car! What spots lights are you running?
Also, for the 295 I can't believe you were able to even drive it without cutting down the mudflaps a bit. I went ahead and trimmed my entire back arch into a uniform radius just to make sure I dont have any issues. The only downside is that now I am having to come up with a way to reattach a portion of the flap to cover the opening inside the wheel well. I would leave it, but don't want it getting packed with mud and all.

As far as the retrofit, it was fairly easy to do and I kind of followed this that I found, which is how I learned about the cheaper ACME kit vs some of the more expensive ones:
HID Projector Retrofit: 2003 Toyota 4Runner (Part 1) - The Track Ahead
HID Projector Retrofit: 2003 Toyota 4Runner (Part 2) - The Track Ahead

Me being me, I didn't quite read through the entire thing and decided I would jump right in. Long story short, instead of enlarging the hole to sit the projector deeper in (giving you enough thread on the back side to tighten the nut down, I cut down the flange on the back of the housing because my threads didn't come up far enough to get the nut started. This also gave me the appearance of the projector floating out a bit more in the housing which I kind of liked.

I also did not JB weld the shroud to the projector. The shroud that came with the kit had holes that lined up with the projector so what I did was thread them with an M3 thread and used some small screws I had laying around to fasten it. Figured if I wanted to take it apart later for whatever reason I would have the ability to. The wiring was really straight forward.

If I wasn't in a rush to get it done quick and get the lights back in (bc I can be super impatient) I could have done the whole process start to finish in 3-4 hours. I had to bake one light open again because my projector twisted during installation and I didn't realize it and was off by a good 35 degrees.
I am still working on getting them aimed correctly but for 2 hours of work and around 200 bucks it was definitely worth it for me.

kcdehart · Aug 20, 2020

aemravan said:
Thanks man, good looking car! What spots lights are you running?
Also, for the 295 I can't believe you were able to even drive it without cutting down the mudflaps a bit. I went ahead and trimmed my entire back arch into a uniform radius just to make sure I dont have any issues. The only downside is that now I am having to come up with a way to reattach a portion of the flap to cover the opening inside the wheel well. I would leave it, but don't want it getting packed with mud and all.

As far as the retrofit, it was fairly easy to do and I kind of followed this that I found, which is how I learned about the cheaper ACME kit vs some of the more expensive ones:
HID Projector Retrofit: 2003 Toyota 4Runner (Part 1) - The Track Ahead
HID Projector Retrofit: 2003 Toyota 4Runner (Part 2) - The Track Ahead

Me being me, I didn't quite read through the entire thing and decided I would jump right in. Long story short, instead of enlarging the hole to sit the projector deeper in (giving you enough thread on the back side to tighten the nut down, I cut down the flange on the back of the housing because my threads didn't come up far enough to get the nut started. This also gave me the appearance of the projector floating out a bit more in the housing which I kind of liked.

I also did not JB weld the shroud to the projector. The shroud that came with the kit had holes that lined up with the projector so what I did was thread them with an M3 thread and used some small screws I had laying around to fasten it. Figured if I wanted to take it apart later for whatever reason I would have the ability to. The wiring was really straight forward.

If I wasn't in a rush to get it done quick and get the lights back in (bc I can be super impatient) I could have done the whole process start to finish in 3-4 hours. I had to bake one light open again because my projector twisted during installation and I didn't realize it and was off by a good 35 degrees.
I am still working on getting them aimed correctly but for 2 hours of work and around 200 bucks it was definitely worth it for me.

Thanks! I'm just running some random spotlights I got used from eBay for $15 with yellow Laminex over em. They do the trick nicely! They're on Rago mounts, but I wanna try to find something that clears my CB a bit better.

And yeah, the 295s honestly clear perfectly find for daily driving after the trimming I've done. They only seem to rub when it's flexing a decent bit. Which it did a looot this weekend. I'm in the same predicament as you though. I want to cut the rear mudflap, but the tires rub on the mounting bolts so I really can't reattach it. I've thought about maybe using a lower profile fastener of some sort - that'll be a project for before my next trip though.

And thanks for the tips! I'm definitely looking into doing a retrofit sometime soon. Just gotta motivate myself to open up the headlights.

aemravan · Aug 20, 2020

kcdehart said:
Thanks! I'm just running some random spotlights I got used from eBay for $15 with yellow Laminex over em. They do the trick nicely! They're on Rago mounts, but I wanna try to find something that clears my CB a bit better.

And yeah, the 295s honestly clear perfectly find for daily driving after the trimming I've done. They only seem to rub when it's flexing a decent bit. Which it did a looot this weekend. I'm in the same predicament as you though. I want to cut the rear mudflap, but the tires rub on the mounting bolts so I really can't reattach it. I've thought about maybe using a lower profile fastener of some sort - that'll be a project for before my next trip though.

And thanks for the tips! I'm definitely looking into doing a retrofit sometime soon. Just gotta motivate myself to open up the headlights.

No problem at all man, good luck with it! This was my first time doing a retrofit and it wasn't really bad at all.

One more quick question, which hit tire carrier is that? I've been looking to an option thats cheaper than a ultraswing but also isn't permanent since I don't do trips too often

kcdehart · Aug 20, 2020

aemravan said:
No problem at all man, good luck with it! This was my first time doing a retrofit and it wasn't really bad at all.

One more quick question, which hit tire carrier is that? I've been looking to an option thats cheaper than a ultraswing but also isn't permanent since I don't do trips too often

Yeah I did a little bit of baking with the fogs/blinkers on this, and then on a previous car. We'll see how this goes.

And it's a Rigid Armor tire carrier. The've got more options out now, but I got it earlier this year for like $450 shipped. It's pretty solid for the most part. Wobbles a bit on the closest setting, but I fixed that with a hitch stiffener.

importman · Aug 21, 2020

Nahrah said:
I just pulled the bulb out and put back the housing. I then used dorman Conduct-Tite Blue 16-14 Gauge T-Tap Terminal to spice into the original wire. I basically drilled three holes two for the bolt and one for the led brake light wire to go through. I also got 3m double sided molding tape to to secure it more even though it came attached with some foam seal. I also watched a video on youtube where a fellow 4th gen owner installed his.

Here's the ebay listing Factory Style Rear Roof Mount Painted Rear Spoiler Fits 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner | eBay
seller is autorestylers

Just a couple questions. Does it come with some sort of template, or how did you know exactly where to drill the holes? Did it make any difference in the way rain hits it, or the way dirt accumulates on the back glass? I'm really considering doing this. Didn't think it was possible to get one painted for that price. Thanks

originalg00kster · Aug 21, 2020

importman said:
Just a couple questions. Does it come with some sort of template, or how did you know exactly where to drill the holes? Did it make any difference in the way rain hits it, or the way dirt accumulates on the back glass? I'm really considering doing this. Didn't think it was possible to get one painted for that price. Thanks

Yes, they give you hardware and little paper strips so you can make sure you're drilling at the right spot.

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Nahrah · Aug 22, 2020

importman said:
Just a couple questions. Does it come with some sort of template, or how did you know exactly where to drill the holes? Did it make any difference in the way rain hits it, or the way dirt accumulates on the back glass? I'm really considering doing this. Didn't think it was possible to get one painted for that price. Thanks

originalg00kster said:
Yes, they give you hardware and little paper strips so you can make sure you're drilling at the right spot.

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As originalg00kster said, they give you paper strip that you tape to the spoiler, then mock it up to where you you feel is perfect and tape down the strip to the lift gate and lift the spoiler off. I did it by myself, but it would've been handy to have a second person. As for rain what's that? :lmao: Socal don't get much rain, dirt still accumulates but I think not as much. The video link below gives you an idea, I followed what he did basically.

Here's the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iA6U_ipNm28&feature=youtu.be

What did you do with your 4runner today?

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