A friendly shifter linkage bushing reminder

I just received and installed the bushing. It was very easy. The old bushing was still compliant, I will keep it just in case.

Alternate method (no need to remove whole assembly):
1) remove the shifter surround by lifting straight up
2) unscrew the shift knob
3) move the shifter to a mid point like N
4) with a small flat screwdriver, gently release the lock tabs at all 4 corners
5) lift and remove shifter Bezel.
6) move shifter to 2nd gear position
7) look at the rear most end of shifter assembly, and you can see the shifter cable and bushing
8) follow the shifter cable back 3” and see a flat spring clip holding the cable in the mount
9) with pliers, pull up the clip and remove. Push cable backward and lift from mount
10) slide shifter bushing/cable off the selector post, lift the cable to access the bushing.
11) remove bushing, install new bushing, lubricate, re-install on selector
12) reverse process to finish.
13) note: Be careful not to lose the shift lock release button when installing the bezel
=> take pics along the way to help with reassembly

Time involved, 20 minutes including dropping and retreiving the shift lock release button from under the shifter. LOL
 

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More pics. Flat spring clip at yellow arrows
 

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You posted instructions about 2 hours after I finished xD Should have procrastinated.

Side note, I could not get the flat piece out to save my life. Not having any instructions to show me otherwise I ended up disassembling more of the shifter.

These instructions are way better lol.
 
Its a tight fit. With pliers, you will need to pull straight up and rock it side to side to get it out. Or find a way to pry it up. The tap with a hammer to reinstall it.
 
I bought mine from ebay after offering $20. Probably still $15 over priced but its a one time purchase

Seller. Bushingfix
 

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I've been wanting to replace this bushing for a while since my transmission sometimes sticks going into Drive. I found the same bushing kit that others here posted links to while looking on Amazon for something else.

Amazon.com: Bushing Fix BP1Kit - Transmission Shift Cable Bushing Repair Kit : Automotive

If you're having issues shifting between gears it's most likely not the cable bushing, it's more than likely the indented guide/groove the shifter spring loaded pin rides in being worn.

For more on this issue search the forum for "Sticky Shifter"
 
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If you're having issues shifting between gears it's most likely not the cable bushing, it's more than likely the indented guide/groove the shifter spring loaded pin rides in being worn.

For more on this issue search the forum for "Sticky Shifter"

Mine shifts smoothly, not sticky at all. Once in a while it won't go all the way into "D" unless I sorta slam it there. Doesn't do it in any other gear.

I pulled the center console apart a couple times & cleaned it out with compressed air and it help for a while but it eventually does it again.
 
Mine shifts smoothly, not sticky at all. Once in a while it won't go all the way into "D" unless I sorta slam it there. Doesn't do it in any other gear.

I pulled the center console apart a couple times & cleaned it out with compressed air and it help for a while but it eventually does it again.

That still sounds like the pin and groove issue, if it were just the grommet it wouldn't shift the gears inside the transmission at all because the cable would become disconnected from the shifter, if you keep slamming it into "D" it's going to break the little "hole/housing" the pin is in, the pin will fall down into the shifter and then you will have a "flopping" shifter because the pin isn't guiding and holding it in the grooved shift pattern and then you will have to hold it in each gear, or especially in either 4th or 5th and 1st and 2nd gear.
 
I’m conflicted on whether to bother changing this thing. It’s pretty costly for what it is and also kind of feels like a solution looking for a problem, especially given that at least one person said theirs was fine when they changed it. I’m at 222K miles right now so who knows, this may come back to bite me in the a**, but I’m going to let it ride.
 
I’m conflicted on whether to bother changing this thing. It’s pretty costly for what it is and also kind of feels like a solution looking for a problem, especially given that at least one person said theirs was fine when they changed it. I’m at 222K miles right now so who knows, this may come back to bite me in the a**, but I’m going to let it ride.

Search around some of the forum topics on the bushing, I read one member posting he found/selected a similar bushing from an assortment that worked for him at a auto parts or hardware store for a couple of bucks, worth looking through the forum, if we can get a part number, should be able to find it or similar online as well.
 
That still sounds like the pin and groove issue, if it were just the grommet it wouldn't shift the gears inside the transmission at all because the cable would become disconnected from the shifter, if you keep slamming it into "D" it's going to break the little "hole/housing" the pin is in, the pin will fall down into the shifter and then you will have a "flopping" shifter because the pin isn't guiding and holding it in the grooved shift pattern and then you will have to hold it in each gear, or especially in either 4th or 5th and 1st and 2nd gear.

Ok, thanks. I'm going to look at some more threads about this when I got some more time. Next time it warms up a little bit outside I'm going to dive into it.
 
I’m conflicted on whether to bother changing this thing. It’s pretty costly for what it is and also kind of feels like a solution looking for a problem, especially given that at least one person said theirs was fine when they changed it. I’m at 222K miles right now so who knows, this may come back to bite me in the a**, but I’m going to let it ride.

2003 with 231k miles here and just had this bushing crap out... Reversed out of my driveway headed to work, shifted back to drive to get going, released the brake and the truck continued to move backwards. That's wierd... try shifting to park, then back into drive... still moving backwards. Now im blocking the road.

An hour later (most of which was spent getting my truck at least back into neutral so it could be moved out of the road and pushed back up into my garage) I found the self locking bushing had ****ed right off and came loose of the gear selector rod. It turns out 20 years of use had added up on this shoddily designed part wearing, and nothing was now securing the shifter cable to the gear selection rod.

Another half hour installing a zip tie to keep the cable secured to the shifter, testing, and and putting everything back together just to be able to drive an othwewise stellarlly solid vehicle... sigh... face palm

$25 is NOT that costly compared to the hour and a half of lost work (at least for me), or god forbid you actually need to use use vehicle in an emergency, paired with the hassle of taking the assembly apart twice to fix this problem properly after failure.

But hey, your mileage may vary.
 
2003 with 231k miles here and just had this bushing crap out... Reversed out of my driveway headed to work, shifted back to drive to get going, released the brake and the truck continued to move backwards. That's wierd... try shifting to park, then back into drive... still moving backwards. Now im blocking the road.

An hour later (most of which was spent getting my truck at least back into neutral so it could be moved out of the road and pushed back up into my garage) I found the self locking bushing had ****ed right off and came loose of the gear selector rod. It turns out 20 years of use had added up on this shoddily designed part wearing, and nothing was now securing the shifter cable to the gear selection rod.

Another half hour installing a zip tie to keep the cable secured to the shifter, testing, and and putting everything back together just to be able to drive an othwewise stellarlly solid vehicle... sigh... face palm

$25 is NOT that costly compared to the hour and a half of lost work (at least for me), or god forbid you actually need to use use vehicle in an emergency, paired with the hassle of taking the assembly apart twice to fix this problem properly after failure.

But hey, your mileage may vary.


Well, my point was that $25 is ridiculous for a small piece of plastic, but you're right about the big picture and I appreciate the perspective. I'm going to change it out based on your post and that I coincidentally just turned over 231K myself.

Edit: Ordered this kit from Amazon. Chose it over the BushingFix b/c several reviews of the latter mentioned the bushing being a little loose-fitting in the cable end on 4th Gens, plus it's a few bucks cheaper.
 
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If you're having issues shifting between gears it's most likely not the cable bushing, it's more than likely the indented guide/groove the shifter spring loaded pin rides in being worn.

For more on this issue search the forum for "Sticky Shifter"


Glad you posted this. My shifter was stuck and I slammed it into 4 and now it moves back and forth unintentionally.

Will search the forum for the main thread. How hard is it to fix the pin if I broke it?
 
Glad you posted this. My shifter was stuck and I slammed it into 4 and now it moves back and forth unintentionally.

Will search the forum for the main thread. How hard is it to fix the pin if I broke it?

In your case search the forum for "Floppy Shifter"

It's not the pin that breaks, it's the plastic hole that the pin with a spring under it is housed in that breaks, allowing the pin to tilt and or pop out of the hole, this happens when the groove the pin follows gets worn allowing the pin to tilt making it bind in the groove, thus the "sticky shifter" problem, and when too much force is applied it ends up breaking the sides of the hole and the pin pops out of the hole and then you have the "floppy shifter" problem since the pin is no longer there to keep the shifter in the indents of each gear position, it's not an easy fix since the side/s of the hole are broken out, some have "rebuilt" the hole using epoxy, I think a metal sleeve along with rebuilding the hole with epoxy is the way to go short of finding a replacement part from a savage yard if you're lucky enough to find one that the grooves are not worn too much.
 
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