Denso IK22 spark plugs after 30K miles of Supercharged driving

quicksilvr · Nov 19, 2014

amalik said:
Heck, FR4R, they even offer upgraded torque converters for auto trannies. Sky is the limit on what you can spend with those guys.

Website states they do a lot of biz with the middle east. All the royal family million and billionaires and their fleets of sports cars come to mind.

I imagine getting the tranny shipped out there and back is not that simple... last I checked my auto tranny didn't fit in the mailbox

I personally would get a new performance built transmission for IPT before I'd get one from level 10. IPT offers free shipping as a special, and they don't need your core. Just give them a couple thousand bucks, and wait for a whole new trans to show up.

BUT, I would only do that if I wanted to seriously flog the truck on a regular basis. The valve body upgrade is all that's needed for 90% of the supercharged rigs out there.

quicksilvr · Nov 19, 2014

FR4R said:
You pull the valve body and send it to them.

OP I'm running the IK22's, not sure what they look like at this point but I should probably pull them and take a peek.

Pull the front driver's side one, and see what it looks like. Easy to get at, and if it's bad, you can bet the other on that side are too.

Supermoney · Oct 13, 2016

quicksilvr said:
Pull the front driver's side one, and see what it looks like. Easy to get at, and if it's bad, you can bet the other on that side are too.

Sorry for the necro bump, but....what did you end up doing here?

I am ordering plugs today and not sure which to go with now.

Jhelms · Oct 13, 2016

Reply to necro post - I had an odd job years ago as a spark plug specialist for race teams and general. The only time I have ever seen a fine wire (iridium or gold palladium) electrode broken like that is because someone gapped it with a slide gapping tool. You can also see the bend in the other electrode from pressure from tool use - putting pressure on the side of the tip. Gap for an IK22 under boost should have been default .032. The only way one should re-gap an iridium plug is with a feeler gauge set and arm bending tool. Otherwise, you get what you see here. Another item that shows the issue happened at install (most likely) the arm of the plug with the broken tip has virtually zero wear compared to the 2nd plug. So the tip was never present during the 30K miles.

And some additional info: Denso iridium plugs feature a U-grove on the arm. This shows initial short term wear much faster in this exact area of the plug vs a non u-grove plug. Once the area is blasted away, the arm remains looking like that for the long haul and does not cause a performance issue (unless you are running crazy boost / experiencing spark blowout). NGK iridium plugs lack the U-grove and thus wear better on the arm (both perform equally well)

Last bit of babble, our engines use a dual ground setup by default as our engines are wasted spark which accelerates wear on the arm by double. Wear is caused on one arm and then spark follows the path of least resistance to the other arm until that wears a bit.... then bounces back. However at the same time, we run very low RPM engines so wear is not generally a big thing. This is why so many of us still have a normal running engine at 200K+ miles with stock plugs. A single arm plug would last approximately 1/2 of that in the same scenario. So in short, going to a single arm, fine wire iridium will easily give 100K+ miles in our engines without any fuss. And I have proven this to be true in my last runner as well with countless other engines that I have put 100-200K miles on.

[/endrant]

Supermoney · Oct 13, 2016

Jhelms said:
Reply to necro post - I had an odd job years ago as a spark plug specialist for race teams and general. The only time I have ever seen a fine wire (iridium or gold palladium) electrode broken like that is because someone gapped it with a slide gapping tool. You can also see the bend in the other electrode from pressure from tool use - putting pressure on the side of the tip. Gap for an IK22 under boost should have been default .032. The only way one should re-gap an iridium plug is with a feeler gauge set and arm bending tool. Otherwise, you get what you see here. Another item that shows the issue happened at install (most likely) the arm of the plug with the broken tip has virtually zero wear compared to the 2nd plug. So the tip was never present during the 30K miles.

And some additional info: Denso iridium plugs feature a U-grove on the arm. This shows initial short term wear much faster in this exact area of the plug vs a non u-grove plug. Once the area is blasted away, the arm remains looking like that for the long haul and does not cause a performance issue (unless you are running crazy boost / experiencing spark blowout). NGK iridium plugs lack the U-grove and thus wear better on the arm (both perform equally well)

Last bit of babble, our engines use a dual ground setup by default as our engines are wasted spark which accelerates wear on the arm by double. Wear is caused on one arm and then spark follows the path of least resistance to the other arm until that wears a bit.... then bounces back. However at the same time, we run very low RPM engines so wear is not generally a big thing. This is why so many of us still have a normal running engine at 200K+ miles with stock plugs. A single arm plug would last approximately 1/2 of that in the same scenario. So in short, going to a single arm, fine wire iridium will easily give 100K+ miles in our engines without any fuss. And I have proven this to be true in my last runner as well with countless other engines that I have put 100-200K miles on.

[/endrant]

So....which plugs do you run?

Do you think I should stick with the IK22s because I am supercharged and just do not touch the gap? Leave them as they come?

OR go with the factory plugs?

JayRolla · Oct 13, 2016

Jhelms said:
Reply to necro post - I had an odd job years ago as a spark plug specialist for race teams and general. The only time I have ever seen a fine wire (iridium or gold palladium) electrode broken like that is because someone gapped it with a slide gapping tool. You can also see the bend in the other electrode from pressure from tool use - putting pressure on the side of the tip. Gap for an IK22 under boost should have been default .032. The only way one should re-gap an iridium plug is with a feeler gauge set and arm bending tool. Otherwise, you get what you see here. Another item that shows the issue happened at install (most likely) the arm of the plug with the broken tip has virtually zero wear compared to the 2nd plug. So the tip was never present during the 30K miles.

And some additional info: Denso iridium plugs feature a U-grove on the arm. This shows initial short term wear much faster in this exact area of the plug vs a non u-grove plug. Once the area is blasted away, the arm remains looking like that for the long haul and does not cause a performance issue (unless you are running crazy boost / experiencing spark blowout). NGK iridium plugs lack the U-grove and thus wear better on the arm (both perform equally well)

Last bit of babble, our engines use a dual ground setup by default as our engines are wasted spark which accelerates wear on the arm by double. Wear is caused on one arm and then spark follows the path of least resistance to the other arm until that wears a bit.... then bounces back. However at the same time, we run very low RPM engines so wear is not generally a big thing. This is why so many of us still have a normal running engine at 200K+ miles with stock plugs. A single arm plug would last approximately 1/2 of that in the same scenario. So in short, going to a single arm, fine wire iridium will easily give 100K+ miles in our engines without any fuss. And I have proven this to be true in my last runner as well with countless other engines that I have put 100-200K miles on.

[/endrant]

Going on 280k miles and I still have original plugs and wires on my rig. Unless someone decided to install ngk/denso on each side with oem wires.

gamefreakgc · Oct 14, 2016

Supermoney said:
So....which plugs do you run?

Do you think I should stick with the IK22s because I am supercharged and just do not touch the gap? Leave them as they come?

OR go with the factory plugs?

All Iridium plugs I've ever seen have warnings on the box or from the manufacturer NOT to gap them since they are fragile and can break, like what someone else just posted. Just remove from the box and put them in. Don't adjust anything.

Spark plug gap is not a big issue for these engines anyway.

Jhelms · Oct 14, 2016

Supermoney said:
So....which plugs do you run?

Do you think I should stick with the IK22s because I am supercharged and just do not touch the gap? Leave them as they come?

OR go with the factory plugs?

IK22 is 1 step colder than stock witch is a 7 heat-range in NGK. That is what I would go with (7 heat range) if one of my own gunners was lightly boosted as with the TRD charger. For part numbers, IK22 (denso) or BKR7EIX (NGK) would both be correct for your application. Technically you can bring the gap to the next standard which is .044 IF they are gapped with an arm bending tool and feeler gauge set. However, would you notice any difference? Likely not.

Jhelms · Oct 14, 2016

JayRolla said:
Going on 280k miles and I still have original plugs and wires on my rig. Unless someone decided to install ngk/denso on each side with oem wires.

Indeed - this OEM plug was from about 215K from memory (would have to dig for exact) but the gunner still ran just fine of course with a small bit of lumpy idle. New plugs and wires cleaned up the idle to perfection. No doubt I could have gotten the OEM plugs to keep going - but the last thing I wanted was to be towing a trailer in the mountains and develop a wire / plug issue. So now - set for ages.

And what a new dual ground looks like

masphx · Oct 14, 2016

I still get pinging in some of my rpm ranges and tbus i have turned up my retard alot but i still get the pinging. Worth while checking my spark plugs or do they mean little to retard timing?

quicksilvr · Nov 5, 2016

I've been running Denso K20TR11's for the past 15k miles or so. They seem to work great.

I did finally get the truck to ping a little, but only because I tried a tank of 89 octane....and even then it would only ping if I was in high gear, low rpm, high load starting to go up a hill. I note this, because the combination of these plugs and 89 octane obviously produced that....and that's the only time I've ever ever had it happen.

Denso K20TR11 Standard Spark Plug 3195: Advance Auto Parts

4Reak Show · Nov 12, 2016

amalik said:
[MENTION=40945]quicksilvr[/MENTION], so are you just going to write this off as part of the Supercharged life on the 3rd gen?

Are there any dual electrode plugs that are also cool enough?

I know this is sort of an old thread but I stumbled upon the sought after plugs. Haven't used them just found them via this thread

NGK bkr7ekc for Supercharger instead of IK22s

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_fid=10034&share_type=t&share_pid=2521731

Seems to be right? Nickel instead of iridium so maybe somebody knows.

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9354

Denso IK22 spark plugs after 30K miles of Supercharged driving

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