I have been hunting all week and power windows are a pain in the neck. need the key on to operate the window. when putting a spotting scope on the window to look at long ranges for game. anyone know of a way to get power to the switches without the ignition being turned on? one more question how do I disconnect that dam bell that is linked to the ignition? thanks for any help.

Perhaps you could bypass the ignition switch and then switch the power window relay with an additional switch? Or just hunt with the windows open! I'm assuming you're dressed to be outside if you're hunting...

As far as the chime goes- find it and unplug it!

You'd get into big trouble pretty quickly if you hunted from your truck in Ontario! Technically speaking you can't even use your hood as a rest!

spot game from a long distance with high power spotting scope. park take off on foot to do the actual hunt, not shooting from the 4runner.

cool. Where I hunt it's pretty wooded, you won't see anything much more than 100 yards out anyhow. Of course you might have to wait a while to get a good shot through the trees once you've spotted something!

Here's a link for all the electrical diagrams:
http://web.archive.org/web/201005310...sm/wiring.html

Ok, so power for the windows actually comes straight from the battery from the 30Amp "POWER" fuse at the top left. That's hot all the time, but the ignition switch signal passes through the body ECU and controls the "PWR RELAY" and switches the power to the controls on and off. If you can get to the PWR RELAY easily (I haven't looked but it's probably under the hood with the rest of them) all you need to do is pull it out and put a jumper between pins 3 and 5.

There are other things tied into that, but it's easy enough to do when you need it for hunting. This is very similar to what you do to make all the power outlets hot all the time. All you need is a short piece of wire (you need 10 gauge since it's a 30amp fuse), and two male spade terminals.






Here's what it looks like when you do the power outlets:

The PWR relay, unfortunately, is not so convenient. It's on the reverse side of the fuse panel by the driver's knee on the top right corner, so accessing it to swap in a jumper is sort of a pain. You have to pull the panel. The best way would be to wire an always-on 12V+ source through a switch and connect that to Terminal 1 of the relay. That would allow you to energize the system as needed. Either tap a fused circuit like the DOME circuit or use an inline fuse. Relay coils don't use much so 1 amp is plenty.

The key chime, if memory serves, is soldered into the gauge cluster. Best way to deal with it is a fatal injection of superglue.

Ah ok, I just assumed it was under the hood with the rest of them.

You're right, a switch to energize it whenever you wanted would probably be the easiest way in this case.

Another way is to just hold open the Spring/magnet arm inside the relay. Lot cleaner look and all you need is a non-conductive little wedge...small piece of plastic, to make it work.

Here's I link with pictures and step by step directions. It isn't my write up...can't take credit. @romonortize55 did the write up. The relay he does is for the power outlet, but just as jeremyc74 said...same concept.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/alw...-pictures.665/

Hope this helps...good luck on your hunt!!


Edit****. Well I guess this won't help...I was typing while TheDurk was explaining this way won't work...I tried :-( !!!!

- Russel

@jeremyc74 do you have a link to wiring diagrams for 2000 4Runners? Would be much appreciated.

Thank your Sir

- Russel

I should mention that the rear window would NOT work with any of these proposed fixes on any '99+ truck as that circuit requires both the back door ECU and the body ECU to be energized. That would require hotwiring the ECU-IG fuse circuit as well. I'm not sure about the earlier trucks but I suspect they would work ok.

No, I don't. Sorry. Most of it will be the same as what's in that link, but there are some differences as the '99-'00 trucks had some updates, and then there were significant changes for the last two years.

Thanks to everyone for the information. going to try the power window mod today. then if I can find the key chime it is next.

Hey let us now how it works out for you. Not really wanting to do the window mod...but I'm very interested the key chime mod.

Thank you and good luck!!

- Russel

I found the key chime write-up in my link collection:

4Runners.org - Disabling the Door Buzzer on a 1999 4Runner

Here is the guilty party:

Well today after cleaning up the yota so it no longer looked like a crime scene I made a jumper and put it in where the 30 amp fuze was. now all the windows in the front and rear doors work without the key in the ignition. also put a jumper in so the power ports work with the key off. I unplugged a connecter below the ignition and the chime dosent go off with the door open if the key is off or in the acc position. only downside to this is it also disables the door locks unlocking when you try to lock the doors with the master switch while the key is in the ignition. best of all no wires were cut so it is very easy to reverse these mods. Thanks to all who helped me to figure this out