Power window modification

[nail bender]

I have been hunting all week and power windows are a pain in the neck. need the key on to operate the window. when putting a spotting scope on the window to look at long ranges for game. anyone know of a way to get power to the switches without the ignition being turned on? one more question how do I disconnect that dam bell that is linked to the ignition? thanks for any help.

 

[I_bRAD]

Perhaps you could bypass the ignition switch and then switch the power window relay with an additional switch? Or just hunt with the windows open! I'm assuming you're dressed to be outside if you're hunting...

As far as the chime goes- find it and unplug it!

You'd get into big trouble pretty quickly if you hunted from your truck in Ontario! Technically speaking you can't even use your hood as a rest!

 

[nail bender]

spot game from a long distance with high power spotting scope. park take off on foot to do the actual hunt, not shooting from the 4runner.

 

[I_bRAD]

cool. Where I hunt it's pretty wooded, you won't see anything much more than 100 yards out anyhow. Of course you might have to wait a while to get a good shot through the trees once you've spotted something!

 

[jeremyc74]

I have been hunting all week and power windows are a pain in the neck. need the key on to operate the window. when putting a spotting scope on the window to look at long ranges for game. anyone know of a way to get power to the switches without the ignition being turned on? one more question how do I disconnect that dam bell that is linked to the ignition? thanks for any help.

Here's a link for all the electrical diagrams:
http://web.archive.org/web/20100531053202/http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/wiring.html

Ok, so power for the windows actually comes straight from the battery from the 30Amp "POWER" fuse at the top left. That's hot all the time, but the ignition switch signal passes through the body ECU and controls the "PWR RELAY" and switches the power to the controls on and off. If you can get to the PWR RELAY easily (I haven't looked but it's probably under the hood with the rest of them) all you need to do is pull it out and put a jumper between pins 3 and 5.

There are other things tied into that, but it's easy enough to do when you need it for hunting. This is very similar to what you do to make all the power outlets hot all the time. All you need is a short piece of wire (you need 10 gauge since it's a 30amp fuse), and two male spade terminals.

Here's what it looks like when you do the power outlets:

 

[TheDurk]

Here's a link for all the electrical diagrams:
http://web.archive.org/web/20100531053202/http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/wiring.html

Ok, so power for the windows actually comes straight from the battery from the 30Amp "POWER" fuse at the top left. That's hot all the time, but the ignition switch signal passes through the body ECU and controls the "PWR RELAY" and switches the power to the controls on and off. If you can get to the PWR RELAY easily (I haven't looked but it's probably under the hood with the rest of them) all you need to do is pull it out and put a jumper between pins 3 and 5.

There are other things tied into that, but it's easy enough to do when you need it for hunting. This is very similar to what you do to make all the power outlets hot all the time. All you need is a short piece of wire (you need 10 gauge since it's a 30amp fuse), and two male spade terminals.


Here's what it looks like when you do the power outlets:

The PWR relay, unfortunately, is not so convenient. It's on the reverse side of the fuse panel by the driver's knee on the top right corner, so accessing it to swap in a jumper is sort of a pain. You have to pull the panel. The best way would be to wire an always-on 12V+ source through a switch and connect that to Terminal 1 of the relay. That would allow you to energize the system as needed. Either tap a fused circuit like the DOME circuit or use an inline fuse. Relay coils don't use much so 1 amp is plenty.

The key chime, if memory serves, is soldered into the gauge cluster. Best way to deal with it is a fatal injection of superglue.

 

[jeremyc74]

The PWR relay, unfortunately, is not so convenient. It's on the reverse side of the fuse panel by the driver's knee on the top right corner, so accessing it to swap in a jumper is sort of a pain. You have to pull the panel. The best way would be to wire an always-on 12V+ source through a switch and connect that to Terminal 1 of the relay. That would allow you to energize the system as needed. Either tap a fused circuit like the DOME circuit or use an inline fuse. Relay coils don't use much so 1 amp is plenty.

The key chime, if memory serves, is soldered into the gauge cluster. Best way to deal with it is a fatal injection of superglue.

Ah ok, I just assumed it was under the hood with the rest of them.

You're right, a switch to energize it whenever you wanted would probably be the easiest way in this case.

 

[RussToy]

Another way is to just hold open the Spring/magnet arm inside the relay. Lot cleaner look and all you need is a non-conductive little wedge...small piece of plastic, to make it work.

Here's I link with pictures and step by step directions. It isn't my write up...can't take credit. @romonortize55 did the write up. The relay he does is for the power outlet, but just as jeremyc74 said...same concept.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/always-hot-power-outlets-pictures.665/

Hope this helps...good luck on your hunt!!


Edit****. Well I guess this won't help...I was typing while TheDurk was explaining this way won't work...I tried :-( !!!!

- Russel

 

[RussToy]

Here's a link for all the electrical diagrams:
http://web.archive.org/web/20100531053202/http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/wiring.html

[MENTION=116745]jeremyc74[/MENTION] do you have a link to wiring diagrams for 2000 4Runners? Would be much appreciated.

Thank your Sir

- Russel

 

[TheDurk]

I should mention that the rear window would NOT work with any of these proposed fixes on any '99+ truck as that circuit requires both the back door ECU and the body ECU to be energized. That would require hotwiring the ECU-IG fuse circuit as well. I'm not sure about the earlier trucks but I suspect they would work ok.

 

[jeremyc74]

[MENTION=116745]jeremyc74[/MENTION] do you have a link to wiring diagrams for 2000 4Runners? Would be much appreciated.

Thank your Sir

- Russel

No, I don't. Sorry. Most of it will be the same as what's in that link, but there are some differences as the '99-'00 trucks had some updates, and then there were significant changes for the last two years.

 

[nail bender]

The PWR relay, unfortunately, is not so convenient. It's on the reverse side of the fuse panel by the driver's knee on the top right corner, so accessing it to swap in a jumper is sort of a pain. You have to pull the panel. The best way would be to wire an always-on 12V+ source through a switch and connect that to Terminal 1 of the relay. That would allow you to energize the system as needed. Either tap a fused circuit like the DOME circuit or use an inline fuse. Relay coils don't use much so 1 amp is plenty.

The key chime, if memory serves, is soldered into the gauge cluster. Best way to deal with it is a fatal injection of superglue.

Thanks to everyone for the information. going to try the power window mod today. then if I can find the key chime it is next.

 

[RussToy]

Thanks to everyone for the information. going to try the power window mod today. then if I can find the key chime it is next.

Hey let us now how it works out for you. Not really wanting to do the window mod...but I'm very interested the key chime mod.

Thank you and good luck!!

- Russel

 

[TheDurk]

Hey let us now how it works out for you. Not really wanting to do the window mod...but I'm very interested the key chime mod.

Thank you and good luck!!

- Russel

I found the key chime write-up in my link collection:

4Runners.org - Disabling the Door Buzzer on a 1999 4Runner

Here is the guilty party:

 

[nail bender]

Well today after cleaning up the yota so it no longer looked like a crime scene I made a jumper and put it in where the 30 amp fuze was. now all the windows in the front and rear doors work without the key in the ignition. also put a jumper in so the power ports work with the key off. I unplugged a connecter below the ignition and the chime dosent go off with the door open if the key is off or in the acc position. only downside to this is it also disables the door locks unlocking when you try to lock the doors with the master switch while the key is in the ignition. best of all no wires were cut so it is very easy to reverse these mods. Thanks to all who helped me to figure this out

 

[JZiggy]

The PWR relay, unfortunately, is not so convenient. It's on the reverse side of the fuse panel by the driver's knee on the top right corner, so accessing it to swap in a jumper is sort of a pain. You have to pull the panel. The best way would be to wire an always-on 12V+ source through a switch and connect that to Terminal 1 of the relay. That would allow you to energize the system as needed. Either tap a fused circuit like the DOME circuit or use an inline fuse. Relay coils don't use much so 1 amp is plenty.

The key chime, if memory serves, is soldered into the gauge cluster. Best way to deal with it is a fatal injection of superglue.

I also want to allow the power passenger windows to be able to operate without the key to allow adjustments during camping, etc. A couple questions:

- If I wire in a switch to put 12V at terminal 1 to energize the relay would I need to add a diode to that it doesn't energize terminal 2 of the ECU?
- I thought about simply jumping terminals 3 and 5 of the PWR window relay. I realize due to its location it is not convenient to reverse this so it would need to be considered semi-permanent. What are the consequences of just bypassing the relay? Is it possible for this to run down the battery somehow?

 

[TheDurk]

I also want to allow the power passenger windows to be able to operate without the key to allow adjustments during camping, etc. A couple questions:

- If I wire in a switch to put 12V at terminal 1 to energize the relay would I need to add a diode to that it doesn't energize terminal 2 of the ECU?
- I thought about simply jumping terminals 3 and 5 of the PWR window relay. I realize due to its location it is not convenient to reverse this so it would need to be considered semi-permanent. What are the consequences of just bypassing the relay? Is it possible for this to run down the battery somehow?

Can't help you without knowing year of the truck.

 

[JZiggy]

can't help you without knowing year of the truck.

1999

 

[TheDurk]

I also want to allow the power passenger windows to be able to operate without the key to allow adjustments during camping, etc. A couple questions:

- If I wire in a switch to put 12V at terminal 1 to energize the relay would I need to add a diode to that it doesn't energize terminal 2 of the ECU?
- I thought about simply jumping terminals 3 and 5 of the PWR window relay. I realize due to its location it is not convenient to reverse this so it would need to be considered semi-permanent. What are the consequences of just bypassing the relay? Is it possible for this to run down the battery somehow?

First, don't put any good little 12V+ source there, as it will connect to the PWR fuse in normal operation. so you need to tap THAT fuse. You don't want to bridge two fuses.

Second, as to the diode question, the honest answer is I don't think so. The issue is the modules, such as the Body ECU, are not detailed as to what the internal wiring is. We have to guess. That terminal 2 is not a power source for the module. It simply is an exit for the PWR feed when the Body ECU thinks it is time to power up the windows, as in the key is on or during the magic 43-second stay-on time after the key is turned off. It is either a mechanical mini relay or its semi-conductor equivalent. In either case, 12V+ applied to T2 in the off state should just dead end there. But, without circuit details, I can't be absolutely sure.

Third, I don't know about the draw from a full-time bypass. The master switch is really a computer module, and it may have a very small power draw when not in use. I doubt it, but again, I can't see into the black box. It's easy enough to measure once you have done the mod. Even if there is, it would be the kind of thing that could go a few days before it drained a battery.

My suggestion for a non-permanent by-pass is find a dead relay, or sacrifice one, and pop the case off. then wire your by-pass inside the relay and put the case back on and install. One option is the mechanical approach where you simply wedge the contact arm in closed position. Then if you want to reverse, just swap the original relay back in.

Note that none of this applies to the liftgate window. That just ain't happening in a '99 unless you run wires all the way back to the liftgate because of the '99+ multiplex interface.

 

[JZiggy]

First, don't put any good little 12V+ source there, as it will connect to the PWR fuse in normal operation. so you need to tap THAT fuse. You don't want to bridge two fuses.

Second, as to the diode question, the honest answer is I don't think so. The issue is the modules, such as the Body ECU, are not detailed as to what the internal wiring is. We have to guess. That terminal 2 is not a power source for the module. It simply is an exit for the PWR feed when the Body ECU thinks it is time to power up the windows, as in the key is on or during the magic 43-second stay-on time after the key is turned off. It is either a mechanical mini relay or its semi-conductor equivalent. In either case, 12V+ applied to T2 in the off state should just dead end there. But, without circuit details, I can't be absolutely sure.

Third, I don't know about the draw from a full-time bypass. The master switch is really a computer module, and it may have a very small power draw when not in use. I doubt it, but again, I can't see into the black box. It's easy enough to measure once you have done the mod. Even if there is, it would be the kind of thing that could go a few days before it drained a battery.

My suggestion for a non-permanent by-pass is find a dead relay, or sacrifice one, and pop the case off. then wire your by-pass inside the relay and put the case back on and install. One option is the mechanical approach where you simply wedge the contact arm in closed position. Then if you want to reverse, just swap the original relay back in.

Note that none of this applies to the liftgate window. That just ain't happening in a '99 unless you run wires all the way back to the liftgate because of the '99+ multiplex interface.

Thanks for the fuse advise. That sort of caution is not second nature to me, glad you said it.

Thinking with key off I could just put an ammeter across pins 3 and 5 where I want to bridge. If no action then I should be able to bridge either with a jumper or modified relay and not be concerned about battery drain.

A switch is the cleanest solution with the problem being then I have to wire in a switch