Newbie lift questions for a VERY low 01 4x4....

jmferg

jmferg

New member
I bought a 2001 SR5 4x4 about a month ago. The first thing I noticed is this particular vehicle is the lowest 3rd gen I looked at. I know 01/02s are low but this one takes the cake. I am debating on two options.
1: going cheap with some new toyota LBJs and OME 880 (1.5") coils/1.5" rear spacer.
Or....
the toytec/bilstein adjustable coilover kit ($600) set at 2.5"
1" diff drop ($25)
New Toyota LBJs
OME 906 rear coils ($170)
Rear bilsteins ($220)
This should give me 2.5"/2" for a nice set of 265/75/16s with spacers.

Is this a good plan for my setup
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If you care about comfort and not lifting much like your stating I would go with new 99 coils. OEM tokico shocks. It will ride very nice and you will be sitting a lot taller.
 
I really can't decide it I want to go with new 99 coils front or rear or go with the tundra bilstein setup at 2" and 99 coils with 10mm spacers in the rear to make it sit level.


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Pretty new

Pretty new at this myself - I checked out Absalom's thread and his advice is probably the way to go. That said - MRT will do all four 5100s for 348, add OME 880 fronts and KYB top mounts and 906 for the back:

348 - Billsteins
340 - 4 OME Springs
120 - KYB and OME mounted on front shock

808 all-in. And if you're willing to mess with the springs and use your existing mounts - it's under 700.

Doesn't seem too shabby. No idea on the off-road-worthiness, but it doesn't seem bad. You can switch up the springs for more lift and still be around the same price I think.

Not sure what the benefit is of the Toytec setup is vs OME Bilstein, but I think the Eibach springs in the toytec setup are made for heavy bumpers, so they're actually stiffer. And this is just me, but I might stick with the 4Runner Bilsteins - as I understand, they're set up better for the 4Runner and don't have the stiffness people complain about. Unless you're running a lot of gear and set up pretty heavy.

Just my 2 cents.

EDIT: One thing that is on Absalom's thread that I would do FOR SURE if you haven't already is to go ahead and do the sway bar links and sway bar bushings. It's around 60 for the front and 60 for the back (20ish for each link and 20 for a bushing set). Will make a big difference in street handling. I didn't realize that mine was missing links bushings. Easy job.
 
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My first reaction is to warn you about MRT, check out the Group Buy threads around his customer service. Second, just about everything aftermarket is going to be a rougher ride than stock. You have to understand that aftermarket is generally designed to be better off-road, not comfy on-road.
 
Dephcon said:
My first reaction is to warn you about MRT, check out the Group Buy threads around his customer service. Second, just about everything aftermarket is going to be a rougher ride than stock. You have to understand that aftermarket is generally designed to be better off-road, not comfy on-road.
Click to expand...

Seems pretty responsive to me - but either way, the prices on Amazon for almost all of that are pretty similar. You might have to go get the springs elsewhere, but everyone from CarID to Toytec has them at the same price.
 
Kyngfish said:
Seems pretty responsive to me - but either way, the prices on Amazon for almost all of that are pretty similar. You might have to go get the springs elsewhere, but everyone from CarID to Toytec has them at the same price.
Click to expand...

You can read thru this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/group...spanner-raffle-free-delivery-9-9-12-a-15.html and tell me how responsive he is. I personally haven't dealt with him, and after reading that thread I'm pretty sure I won't, but the decision is yours. [MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION] can probably give you more information about dealing with Chas and MRT.
 
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Dephcon said:
You can read thru this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/group...spanner-raffle-free-delivery-9-9-12-a-15.html and tell me how responsive he is. I personally haven't dealt with him, and after reading that thread I'm pretty sure I won't, but the decision is yours. [MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION] can probably give you more information about dealing with Chas and MRT.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. But the same still applies, only 30 dollars more expensive from other vendors.
 
+2 for 99' Talls and OEM Tokicos. The ride quality is incredible, and the truck will still be amazingly capable.
 
I don't have any lift suggestions but I do have a coupe videos that could help you out with what you have planned for your truck. Good luck and happy wrenching!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0HJx6HH2yno" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Kyngfish said:
Lol. People seem to hate on the stiff rides around here. Is it really that bad? I'm asking for a friend.
Click to expand...
It can get very tiresome. The truck dances around over rough stuff when it is super stiff, and you can end up feeling like more of a babysitter than a driver.

I guess I just don't see the point of overly stiff suspension on these trucks.
 
absalom said:
It can get very tiresome. The truck dances around over rough stuff when it is super stiff, and you can end up feeling like more of a babysitter than a driver.

I guess I just don't see the point of overly stiff suspension on these trucks.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, but wouldn't Tundra coils and shocks be set up for a heavier truck a and stiffer?
 
I mock lifted my truck.

1: First is very low stock form

Next are three pics pics of the rear in order.

2: height with 99 coils and 1/4" spacer (1.25")
3: height with OME 906 (
2")
4: side profile with 2" of front lift and 2" of rear lift
5: side profile with 2" of front lift with 1.25" of rear lift. (Sits at 35.5 to fender front and back)


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