The DIY AntiTheft methods to save your beloved rig from the hands of thieves

Hello all
I know how much we love our 4Runners so, when it comes to rig theft, owners are blessed with the freedom to fabricate their own system to slow down and/or deter thieves from stealing it, in which some of us have invested 30, 40...maybe even $50K of stuff!

I've have compiled a list of a few mods for the 3rd Gen 4Runners that one can make their rig harder to steal. :boxer: Most mods are easy to do on other vehicles too, but I have done them mainly on 3rd gens. Do them at your own risk.

The main reason I have gathered the list is that my car has the 3L 1KZ-T motor with the mechanical injector pump and no ECU of any kind which makes this car very easy to start. It does not require a starter, or a battery. Gasoline 3rd gen 4Runners have ECUs and can't function without them, so it is much easier to put an electrical mod on them. I have to make lots of mechanical ones on mine.

It is important to know thieves' methods of operation, which is they "think outside the box...to get inside it"!
I am simply sharing some concept ideas on how to disable the areas that are important to a thief to start and drive off a 3rd gen 4Runner.

Usually a car theft should be fast. They can take it somewhere and work on it later, but they have to do it fast on the spot.

For those who do not have any, first of all is to install some kind of a simple alarm with its own horn and battery that has at least a door lock function and sound/light indication. Nothing special.

So the list goes:

1 Protect front horn wires - the original TDS of the 4Runners use the horns to alert when the alarm goes off. They usually have a third horn somewhere out of reach. The wires that power the two front horns are usually cut by thieves before any work starts on the car. Protecting those wires can be helpful to prevent the horns from sounding.

2 Secondary set of door courtesy switches at least on the front doors - after theъ use a shoelace to raise the door lock latch, (which you can see on youtube) thieves usе bent shims to reach between doors to press the courtesy switch before opening the door. When they open the door, a small clamp can hold the switch to prevent it from sounding the alarm. From there its easy to imagine what happens next. So secondary door switches at a non-standard location can assure the alarm will sound at the right moment.

3 Relocation of the hood latch cable - when they have managed to open the door silently, it is time to open the hood to do whatever...cut power etc. Relocating the hood latch cable to a different location, can slow down or totally deter any further action since the hood wont open. The actual hood locking mechanism may be reached from the front grill, but access can easily be blocked from there. The original hood latch can be fitted with spring to fake the tension of the relocated cable to give the feeling that the latch is working fine...although it is not.

4 Bolt-on covers for fuse boxes and battery - engine bay and cab fuse boxes can be a nice spot to start disabling an alarm...so covering those with something that it would take time to reach will again slow down thieves. Cover on the battery should be insulated to prevent any shorting in case of...whatever.

5 Kill-switch to disable not the starter relay but Bendix/solenoid of the starter - there is no point to disable the starter relay, as it just takes a 2 inch wire that you plug in place of the starter relay and the starter...starts,(if you have access to the starter relay in the first place :becky:)! You have to disable the wires leading to the starter solenoid that makes the Bendix move. Reaching starter wires for a thief is not easy and it is not fast either, so jumping a starter is inefficient.

6 Kill-switch to the solenoids/fuel pump/etc - when they have disabled the alarm, the next target is to start the engine. Fuel cut-off is standard disabling although it is easily bypassed. To start an engine with a fuel cutoff mod, they usually rip inflow and outflow hoses and put them in a bottle of gas. Half a gallon can go a long way you know. So even if that happens, a kill switch on the solenoids is also a good option to stop sparks, but has to be done correctly. Always disable the wire coming from the ECU. Otherwise a bridge wire can disable this mod too.

7 Throttle body lock - because the throttle body is the gateway for air to the engine, if the throttle is closed there is not air and even if the starter works, solenoids work, fuel is provided, engine simply chokes. So mod this to stop air from entering the engine. A hood latch cable concept is one way to conveniently work it from the cab.

8 OEM wheel lock - it is easy to disengage so don't trust it entirely.

9 E brake lock - if say thieves managed to start the engine, now it's the time to prevent them from actually driving the vehicle. Mod the e brake to lock into place or install a second cable again at a discrete location to keep the ebrake engaged. A well adjusted ebrake system is more than strong to stall the engine on a manual transmission...unless the driver puts it into low 4x4! :becky:

10 Pedal locks - this mod is a personal choice. Messing with the brakes is not good advice, so do it at your own risk.
Pedal locks are available. They lock the pedal pressed down...it's an ok method, but it can also be bypassed. Still the idea is to slow them down.

11 Shift lever locks - they are good deterrents but still can be broken into. One method for stealing a car is by putting it into neutral and having another car bumper-push you from behind to an 'out of sight out of mind location' where they can work on it. So fabricating a lock on the levers when they are in position with the transfer lever in to LOW, can make sure that the car is harder to push. On a manual transmission, putting the gear lever into reverse brings both levers close together to be somehow locked in place.

12 Rear drive shaft brake - this mod is a bit complex. Putting a brake disk and calliper between the transfer and the rear driveshaft is cool, but complex. A way to engage it is same as an E brake - with a cable at a hidden location. Makes the car also hard to tow by another.

13 Switches to disable controls of all lights on the car - headlights, fog lights, park lights, blinkers...I mean all lights from the dash controls. They can either go out and try to jumper the wires for the head lights...

14 One funny mod is to disable the driver seat's adjusting motor in the rear direction. Every time you leave your car, the seat moves all the way forward and stops. You can't bring it backwards to be comfortable to drive. Most motorized seats move forward pretty darn close to the dash. Maybe a kid will be able to fit in, but not an adult. BUt that mod is for like leaving the car somewhere for a long time. :becky:

15 Cameras installation - a night vision camera placed hidden so the person sitting in the driver's seat is visible, can show you who busted in and tried to take your rig. Also when camping, you can make a small battery powered motion sensor camera device placed away from the car like down the dirt road where you reached to the camp site to monitor who is coming before they put the hoodies on! :becky:

16 Install a lock on the driver's seat in the most front position. Some kind of a pin that make the seat not move backwards is sure to make someone give up.

17. If install a 4th horn inside the cab, it would work nice to make them go crazy. But I think at that point they'll just light your car on fire!

In case it's your lucky day and the master of thieves :spy: is actually in the neighborhood and has managed to bypass all your anti theft mods, if you are a licensed ham radio operator, you can fabricate a foxhunt radio in your car and use it to trace where you car is going. Make sure you follow all applicable laws and call the police :police: when you are quietly squatting in the bushes with a grin, enjoying your "the hunted became the hunter" moment. :bat:

So, these mods here are things that will surely slow down a thief with the hope that the first few mods will make them leave your rig. Hopefully they wont get so mad at you for braking their method of work, that they just soak it with gas and light it up!

Let's hope.
 
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Interesting and some of your methods I've helped setup on my dad's Toyota, just like us putting more money into our vehicle than we WILL ever get returned. So there is three things we do personally and have yet to loose a vehicle, no method is 100% otherwise why would we have insurance? Like OP said you want to slow them down or detour them away from our beloved 2nd/3rd/XX child :)(yes talking about my 4Runner as my other kid!).

So our three methods,

1) Pedal to wheel lock (inexpensive and a detour)
2) Cable through the tire spokes into the steering and back) - Fairly effective as my Dad tried to drive once, made it about 8".
3) Wire modification into the starting part of the circuit, unless you know where it is or a knowledge of wiring vehicle its VERY near impossible.

Here is our methods =)
 
You forgot my #1 theft mod:

Park your 4Runner in a garage! :party:

All the car thefts around here are smash & grab stuff so if they don't see it they can't steal it.
 
I would think the starter method would be relativity simple. Maybe a push button switch that needs to be pressed to complete the circuit and and allow the key to start the truck. Just make sure to install in a discrete location.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
A 4Runner got stolen back home a couple weeks ago. Guy said he had his FJ parked right behind it and they still got it somehow. I don't know what I would do if my truck got stolen.
 
A 4Runner got stolen back home a couple weeks ago. Guy said he had his FJ parked right behind it and they still got it somehow. I don't know what I would do if my truck got stolen.

I have thought of turning my old Nexus 5 into my own personal lojack system. Wire it full time to a USB port hidden behind the glove box. If anyone ever steals my rig all I gotta do is pull up Google locate and grab my 12 gauge.
 
3) Wire modification into the starting part of the circuit, unless you know where it is or a knowledge of wiring vehicle its VERY near impossible.

Electrical principals are constant. It does take time to rig a rig with wire mods, but it is totally worth it.

Few other methods that are available to thieves are grab and run. They steal keys or take the opportunity to steal the car while the keys are left in the ignition.

In the highly unlikely event of getting your rig hijacked while waiting in traffic, it is wise to have a second kill-switch that is really at hands reach right before you get out of the car. Still very unlikely to happen but you get the point.

Electrical schematics for these cars are available online and are very thorough and it is not just us that read them.

I would think the starter method would be relativity simple. Maybe a push button switch that needs to be pressed to complete the circuit and and allow the key to start the truck. Just make sure to install in a discrete location.

A hidden push button switch to start the truck is good idea, but it is relatively easy to bypass. As I mentioned above, it has to be on the strong circuit on the starter relay, as close to the starter, as possible to make it hard to jumper.

Or you could totally add a hidden starter relay somewhere else instead, and just leave the original as a decoy.

As a general rule, there is always that one method that will save your car from being stolen, but you dont know which one, so never rely on one method only.

You forgot my #1 theft mod:
Park your 4Runner in a garage! :party:

Haha, there is an idea - a garage trailer for the 4Runner. Wherever you go, you have a garage right behind you!

A 4Runner got stolen back home a couple weeks ago. Guy said he had his FJ parked right behind it and they still got it somehow. I don't know what I would do if my truck got stolen.

Toyota bumpers are at similar heights...I wouldn't be surprised if they just put the 4Runner in reverse and pushed the FJ a bit to make room to go! Or maybe had to courtesy to push it out all the way, and then push it back in before the run away! haha

I have thought of turning my old Nexus 5 into my own personal lojack system. Wire it full time to a USB port hidden behind the glove box. If anyone ever steals my rig all I gotta do is pull up Google locate and grab my 12 gauge.

Excellent idea, but very easy to overcome since a phone or tablet should not radiate more than .5W of signal strength. At the antenna, it is even lower.
What they do when they get in the car, they stick a signal jammer in the power outlet of the car that blocks most GPS, GSM, CDMA, WIFI, and certain UHF frequencies until they park it in a radio signals free location...aka the Car Bunker! where they take it apart and find your nexus and trough it in the fire, as they know that IMEI numbers are tracers also!

Now as I mentioned earlier, if you are a HAM radio operator, check out the Fox hunt device.
 
Another problem is also that even without a key, a lot of RWD (and maybe 4wd if not engaged) vehicles can easily be kicked into neutral just by removing a single cotter pin that links the shifter to the tranny. Its the shifter that locks, not the tranny. Supposedly the steering wheel lock is easy enough to bypass, so you can pop that thing in neutral and just tow it away. Could probably also just cut the parking brake line too. Figure out how to actually start it later.


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AntleredRuin

No need to remove the cotter pin, after the alarm has been disarmed, a single blow to the shift lever, brakes it and there you go! I personally didnt believe it but tried it once at a junkyard to see how strong the lever on the automatic transmission is and it did not hold at all. I did kick it tho!

On the 4Runner tho, there is no need to do anything on the transmission, just put the transfer lever into neutral and it can be towed on all 4 wheels. Toyota does not recommend this when you done on J shifter single mode transfers because this transfer lacks unlocked central differential. When done on the 01 multi-mode transfers, this can be done when the transfer is in 4wd with the central diff lock in the unlock position. But still not recommended.

On the steering wheel lock i've seen that they use a relatively heavy duty screw driver and hammer to nail it in the key hole, then use a wrench to turn the hexagonal end of it and that usually disengages the wheel lock. But that's when noise is not a problem.

These are parts that arent sold anyway, so being negligent to them is efficient enough for the job.
 
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I have thought of turning my old Nexus 5 into my own personal lojack system. Wire it full time to a USB port hidden behind the glove box. If anyone ever steals my rig all I gotta do is pull up Google locate and grab my 12 gauge.

If you know a little bit about soldering (Depending on your unit) you could just put your own GPS transmitter in (similar to what I did on my 3rd Gen). There is a lot of options out there now and just remember to write down the information BEFORE installing it into that impossible to get to slot/area. :)
 
It all sounds like a lot of work that would just end up preventing me from driving it lol.

I'm with the full coverage/garage method. If you've got thousands upon thousands of dollars invested in your truck and no garage to park in it might be a priority issue ;)

And if someone is car-jacking you LET THEM TAKE IT! Not worth a bullet over a 15 year old vehicle...
 
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[/QUOTE] 16 In case it's your lucky day and the master of thieves :spy: is actually in the neighborhood and has managed to bypass all your anti theft mods, if you are a licensed ham radio operator, you can fabricate a foxhunt radio in your car and use it to trace where you car is going. Make sure you follow all applicable laws and call the police :police: when you are quietly squatting in the bushes with a grin, enjoying your "the hunted became the hunter" moment. :bat:
.[/QUOTE]

Thinking of installing a discrete APRS tracker and this is a considerable reason to do this. The foxhunting thing would be impracticable though. Any hidden antenna would not transmit very far and to find the stolen car, you would need to have some pretty sensitive equipment and antennas. It would also may require RDF equipment or multiple stations for triangulation. With APRS though, the GPS position could be sent to a digipeater or igate and sent out onto the internet.
 
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I have thought of turning my old Nexus 5 into my own personal lojack system. Wire it full time to a USB port hidden behind the glove box. If anyone ever steals my rig all I gotta do is pull up Google locate and grab my 12 gauge.

Better yet, wire it to a waterproof box under the car that is painted black. The thief will surely check the glovebox when he gets home!
 
I feel like these suggestions are getting out of hand hahaha. On top of all these, why not add a shrapnel cannon in one of the AC vents that fires when the truck is started if not first disabled by a separate remote on your keychain.

In all seriousness, I think the idea is to prevent theft while also allowing you to start your own truck without a detailed 14 step walkthrough. That's just asking for trouble, not to mention a million questions whenever you need to bring it to the shop, inspection, etc.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I think doing two anti-theft options would be enough to dissuade a thief, he'd get frustrated pretty fast after he still can't start the thing after routing around one of the deterrents.
 
I actually see to own a '95 EG hatch that I put in a magnetic reed kill switch in. I have my notes somewhere on how to do this I just need to figure out where that is. If you know how to figure out how to wire this up it was a great way to stop someone from stealing your rig by shutting a needed system off like fuel or ignition. I had mine wired up to the fuel pump and one that went to the coil somehow.... yeah its been a while since I made it.

Well heres the link.

AutoSpeed - The World's Best DIY Immobiliser
 
Meh. If you have that much into your rig, you better be insured for what you would be happy to get back in the event of a theft.
Experienced thieves can get around anything. If they really want your 15-20yr old 4R, they'll get it [emoji1360]

But the best anti theft mod is the one not posted on the internet for all to read [emoji23]
 
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Thinking of installing a discrete APRS tracker and this is a considerable reason to do this. The foxhunting thing would be impracticable though. Any hidden antenna would not transmit very far and to find the stolen car, you would need to have some pretty sensitive equipment and antennas. It would also may require RDF equipment or multiple stations for triangulation. With APRS though, the GPS position could be sent to a digipeater or igate and sent out onto the internet.

That's a good idea. I know that jammers can transmit in the 10 to 40watt range at the antenna, which in some parts of the world is not monitored, unlike in the US, but if you have the regular alarm hooked to the radio, you can get the signal before it is jammed.

After it is jammed, you can use the interference signal to trace the vehicle. But still you have to carry a directional antenna and a very good radio...oh and a car and some luck, to be able to trace it yourself. I mean it's impractical, but in the end it's good to try your best.

:biggrin2:
 
I have a fuel pump kill switched wired.

Also, you could get the cheapest pre paid cell phone. And hide it somewhere. Just keep the service every month. In which case you can track down through GPS.

How does a low jack work ?
 

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