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Old 07-29-2021, 12:56 AM #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y=mx+b View Post
Painting my Skid Plates
Is this a skid plate?
No, this is Patrick


I got bored, so I painted it lol









Its likely going to get torn up the minute it goes off road, but I find it pretty amusing for the time being. Its setup so Patrick's face will show from the front lol. I'll get pics when it gets mounted up to share too

This is the single best mod Iíve ever seen done to a 4Runner. Ever. Period.

If anyone is going to argue or dissuade me, donít waste your breath. Your argument is invalid.


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Old 07-29-2021, 08:14 PM #152
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Transmission Cooler | Return to Directory
As we've entered summer and I now have an Ultragauge, I'm finding that my transmission temperatures are higher than I'd like. I did a lot of highway driving from MD to VA during my last Internship, which was mostly flat with a lot of stop and go traffic, I noticed pan temperatures around 195-210į especially in traffic. Now that I'm back to Southwest VA where there are more and larger hills, temperatures are similarly high but hills can cause the transmission "cooler" integrated into the radiator to heat soak much quicker.

To solve this, I purchased the Hayden 679 from Amazon and plumbed it in series with the factory trans "cooler" in the radiator. I did this to get the engine heat from the coolant to try and help warm up the fluid quicker. The Hayden 679 is large enough that I don't worry about the fluid overheating once up to temperature from the added heat through the radiator.

The Hayden cooler came with about 2' of 11/32" tubing, but I purchased 10' of 3/8" (12/32") to use in once continuous run instead. Additionally, I used some thin scrap metal to make mounting brackets, 1/4"-20 bolts, and rivnuts for mounting.

Although if I had to do this again, I'd purchase one of Hayden's Internal Bypass Coolers (more info here: Hayden Patented Internal By-Pass Coolers) because mine takes a while to get up to operating temperature and I feel is overcooled. The internal bypass coolers flow cold fluid back to the transmission and bypass the cooler until the fluid is up to temperature. Once up to temperature, hot fluid flows through the cooler and its fins to regulate the temperature. I may end up removing this one and replacing with one of the Bypass Coolers. I could also add a transmission thermostat which does essentially the same thing, so I'll have to weigh options

Mechanical Install
I started by making little brackets to hold the cooler. I set mine on the passenger side of the radiator support because there was more room there AND I could eliminate the in-radiator trans cooler later and not have lines running left and right.

I started with the top corner bracket. I drilled some pilot holes in the center radiator support and into a small bracket. I wanted two holes on the support to prevent any rotation about the mounting bolt, if only one were used.


Then I could expand those bracket holes to accept a rivnut. I was using 1/4"-20 rivnuts, so I believe 3/8" was the hole size I used for the rivnut. The through holes for all the bolts were drilled to 5/16".


I did put blue locktite on all the rivnuts. This is my first time using them, so I'm a bit skeptical of them twisting


Next for the bottom corner bracket, I made an L-bracket to connect to the lower horizontal radiator support. Since these bolts are on different planes, only one bolt on each face was good enough to prevent rotation




Unfortunately, my rivnut tool was too big to get into that horizontal support, so I needed to compress the rivnut with a bolt, washer, and nut the old fashion way.


For a third mounting location, I didn't want to place it near any of the cooler outputs and possibly create congestion in that area


So instead, I decided to branch of the A/C refrigerant sight glass mount


And now my cooler is mounted in 3 locations, so I feel that is secured adequately


I then removed everything, shaped and cleaned up the brackets, and painted everything including the drilled holes. I also picked up new shorter stainless hardware to replace my mockup hardware that I was using temporarily


Installed with new hardware
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Old 07-29-2021, 08:14 PM #153
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Transmission Cooler Plumbing
I'm not really an expert on transmissions, but this how I did it. Open to feedback, of course. At this point, I should also mention that I no longer have the hard transmission lines running under the radiator. Mine were previously swapped to all soft lines, likely because its kinda crusty under there.

I made a brief illustration of the way mine is plumbed. On the transmission, the top line is the return from the cooler into the transmission, and the bottom is the feed from the transmission to the cooler. I didn't touch the cooler feed line going into the top port of the radiator, added my new hose from the bottom port of the radiator to the top port of the cooler, and ran a line from the bottom of the cooler to the transmission return line


I used some hose pinching pliers to not loose much fluid when removing the lines. Once I removed the line from the radiator, capped it with a small piece of vinyl tubing I bent over and ziptied as a make shift plug




This line, originally returning to the transmission from the radiator, was routed over to the transmission cooler. Now it will be the return from the transmission cooler to the transmission. Before installing, I cleaned up any dirt off of the hose, and snipped it below the hose clamp pliers to have a fresh and clean piece of hose


I then ran my new hose I purchased from the bottom port of the radiator to the top port of the transmission cooler. Both lines do share the hole with the A/C line, which is a bit of a tight fit, so I'll continue to monitor they aren't rubbing into each other


Finally, the transmission cooler was plumbed in. I also put a bit of wire loom over the cooler line to prevent chafing where they pass through the hole in the rad support
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Old 07-29-2021, 08:15 PM #154
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Transmission Cooler | Return to Directory
Now that I've added some smaller volume to my transmission cooling system and my fluid has been a bit spicy, I wanted to do a drain and fill.

I followed this writeup on TacomaWorld: How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission

And this Video by Tacomaholic on properly getting the transmission into Transmission Temperature Check Mode. I followed along and shifted exactly as he did in the video, and it went right into the mode


Since this material is already well covered, I'll just share and document some pictures from my process

Draining the fluid, I got out exactly 3qts. This isn't the first time the transmission fluid has been serviced, so no surprise it was nice and red


Interestingly enough, my drain plug had an o-ring. For some reason I thought it would be a crush washer, but after a little bit of research, I guess the A750F uses an O-ring for this plug


I then pumped in the fluid. I ordered a long funnel to fill from the engine bay, but it didn't arrive in time, so I picked up a new hand pump from Walmart and used that. I also used Maxlife, which is rated for WS replacement. I didn't use Toyota WS, so sue me lol. I put in almost the whole 4qt jug.


Then I did the transmission temp check mode dance and let it warm up. To speed things up, I put some cardboard in front of the radiator and removed once up to temp. It took me only 7min, 25 second to get up to temp check temperature, which was faster than other times I've heard from 14-20 minutes.


Once it was ready to check the level, I pulled the overflow plug and a little bit of fluid came out. I put the plug back in once the streamed slowed to a slow trickle. No real pictures from this as I got trans fluid all over my hands when removing the check plug lol
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Old 07-29-2021, 08:50 PM #155
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Saving this one in case I decided to add the cooler bypass/thermostat to keep all the transmission cooler posts together

Last edited by y=mx+b; 07-29-2021 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 08-02-2021, 11:06 PM #156
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Rear Brake Pads and 121k Pad Life! | Return to Directory
While installing the suspension, I noticed my rear pads were low. I purchased the Akebono ACT606 pads from Amazon. Didn't take enough pics for a writeup, but this topic has already been covered well.

The pads that came out had Toyota written on them, so I looked at the online records, and these pads were installed at 108k miles. Now changing at 229k, these pads had more than 120k on them! They are rear pads and the brake system definitely biases the fronts, but I still think its impressive. Not much life left in these haha


Patrick Skid Installed
Its pretty dumb, but I love it haha





Flagpole Knob Camping | Return to Directory
Went camping at Flagpole Knob in VA. This is one of the most memed "trails" in VA FB groups. Its essentially a Forest Service Road with a lot of loose rocks, some mud, and some medium sized ones up at the top. "Can I take 'x' truck with 'x' lift/tires up flagpole?" is asked almost as frequently as "What lift do I need to clear 'x' tires?". Also went with a smaller group that ended up being part of larger group, and there were a lot of people up at the campsite. Nevertheless, it was a fun time!



Patrick skid plate sneaking through


Turns out Tacomaholic actually lives pretty close to me. He took this pic of Patrick at the top. Unfortunately, he didn't suffer any damage. I was kinda hoping he got a taste of rock lol


And heres one I took at the top during the sunrise. I slept in the trunk for the first time, and that is definitely the move. Previously I'd used a tent which I don't mind setting up and taking down when its dry, but it misted during the night and cleaning up a wet tent sucks. Inside, I moved all my crap to one side and put a 2" mattress topper on the other side. The 2" topper was a little on the thin side, but not terrible. I also opened a window, draped a bug net over the door, and close the door to hold it in.



And a little video taken by a buddy that shows my Patrick Star Skid Well!

not sure why there is this big gap under the embedded video


Sliders Ordered!
Ordered the 4xInnovations Weld-on DOM sliders with square main tube. 3-4 week lead time, so we'll see

Last edited by y=mx+b; 08-03-2021 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 08-03-2021, 09:43 AM #157
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Love the Patrick Plate!
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Old 08-03-2021, 01:31 PM #158
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Just want to throw out a public thank you for this outstanding build thread. The writeups are terrific and your other contributions to the forum are also noticed and greatly appreciated.

On another note, I recently bought 4XInnovations sliders (though not the square tube) and they're solid. Customer service is great too.
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Old 08-03-2021, 03:34 PM #159
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Just want to throw out a public thank you for this outstanding build thread. The writeups are terrific and your other contributions to the forum are also noticed and greatly appreciated.

On another note, I recently bought 4XInnovations sliders (though not the square tube) and they're solid. Customer service is great too.
Thanks, that really means a lot! I really enjoy working on the 4runner, off roading, etc and I'm happy to share everything as I go along!

I am trying to keep the Build Thread somewhat organized on the first page, to not let anything that wasn't detailed enough for a standalone writeup, get lost in the sauce
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Old 08-03-2021, 05:51 PM #160
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I hear you, mine is the same way.
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Old 08-03-2021, 10:36 PM #161
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Panhard Correction Kit Welded In | Return to Directory
Finally got caught up on all the backlog of stuff for the build thread. Today I welded in my Panhard Correction Kit from Eimkeith

Before and After


The main reason to install one of these guys is to correct the rear suspension geometry after lifting. As the picture below shows, as you lift any suspension with a panhard bar, the axle will follow the arc of the panhard bar. This does 3 main things: 1) Offsets the axle to the passenger side, 2) Increases left to right scrub with articulation, 3) Alters Roll Center.


Problems in the Rear Geometry After Lifting
1) Offsets the axle to the passenger side
As seen above, as the 4runner is lifted, the axle follows the arc of the panhard bar. In the top of the two models, we can see this taking place with lift. These are kind over exaggerated, but they show it well

2) Increases left to right scrub with articulation
This is similar to problem #1, where the axle moves left to right the more it is lifted. Left to right scrubbing is minimized when the panhard bar is horizontal, and is maximized when the bar is vertical (like a pendulum). We want to reduce left to right scrubbing with suspension articulation, as it can result in driver and passenger feeling the rear moving left to right over bumps and other road inconsistencies. Not as much a concern with offroad driving, but will improve on road characteristics

3) Alters Roll Center
This one I'm not really an expert on, but I did find a good article here: BEDFORD Speedway - Welcome. Essentially, the angled panhard bar after lifting can cause turning to one side to have increased traction at the rear wheels, while turning to the other side actually decreases traction. Increasing the overall height of the bar with the panhard correction kit raises the roll center. For our purposes, this higher roll center reduces the body roll feeling. Higher, lower, and angle panhard bars do have other benefits in racing, but they really aren't applicable to our off road minivans

This video explains things better than I could with words:


Install
Drove the 4runner into my backyard to weld on my panhard correction kit lol. Was super worried my landlord would show up for an unannounced grass mowing session or something hahaha


It was a tight squeeze on my little patio


Removed the panhard from its bracket on the axle and loosened the frame side so it would swing up. I ziptied it out of the way, but a bungee cord would work well too


Cleaned up the axle bracket for welding


Test Fitting, I found I needed to shave a little off to clear my brake line


I beveled the edge to help with penetration


Then set it in place, and burned it in. Not my greatest welding, but its not going anywhere. Welded around the outside and some areas on the inside


And all installed, our panhard is now nice and horizontal. Also went ahead and gave it a first coat of rusty metal primer, and black overtop

Last edited by y=mx+b; 08-03-2021 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 08-03-2021, 11:22 PM #162
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Wow, where do you learn this stuff? Never see anything like this mentioned in the countless threads where people ask for potential concerns after lifts and everyone just goes "nah you're good bro lol". It certainly makes me think harder about what mods I want to do, and in what order, etc, so I must thank you for that...
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Old 08-03-2021, 11:52 PM #163
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Wow, where do you learn this stuff? Never see anything like this mentioned in the countless threads where people ask for potential concerns after lifts and everyone just goes "nah you're good bro lol". It certainly makes me think harder about what mods I want to do, and in what order, etc, so I must thank you for that...
I've a few threads on axle being offset, which is where I pieced together the axle scrubbing left to right. Its more prominent if you have a wheel offset/spacers that makes the tires flush with the fenders, rather than inset like the stock wheels are. There are adjustable aftermarket panhard bars that can be extended to center the axle, but they don't fix the panhard angle

I heard about the Panhard Correction Kit from somewhere down the grapevine either on here or Facebook. I'm not sure if there are other aftermarket PCKs, but Eimkeith is a 4runner owner with a small business, so I like supporting that

The roll center stuff I didn't know about, but read it from Eimkeith's Site and did some more research on it to learn more


For order of Mods, my suggestion would be to start with tires and go offroading with a group, then upgrade as you see fit. For me, the first time out an ice chunk went through my radiator, so I made a little filler plate for the gap under the stock bumper cover (RCI sells something similar). Then, I realized the stock tie downs in the front weren't really strong enough for recovery, so I purchased some aftermarket recovery points. On the next trip, I was dragging a lot and ripped out the stock skids on some rocks, so I made a skid plate. Skid plate prevented damage from dragging, but didn't really solve my ground clearance or required articulation for the trails I was going on, so then I purchased a suspension setup and larger tires. With the larger tires, I'm probably going to have to remove my fender liners, which exposes the air intake, so I purchased a Snorkel (There are alternatives if snorkel isn't you cup of tea, such as cowl intake or internal snorkel). Now I've dragged my frame across some rocky areas, so I purchased sliders to keep my doors/body safe.

Making upgrades and modifications as you need them is a great way to not spend too much money, and also have your 4runner purposed built for your needs.
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Old 08-04-2021, 11:20 AM #164
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PCK definitely helps. Aligns the axle back to center also stiffened up the rear a bit. Handled like a race car after I put mine on. Ended up removing my rear sway bar.
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Old 08-04-2021, 12:29 PM #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatcheeks View Post
PCK definitely helps. Aligns the axle back to center also stiffened up the rear a bit. Handled like a race car after I put mine on. Ended up removing my rear sway bar.
Yep, I definitely notice less roll. I haven't been running any sway bars since I did the suspension install lol.

Last edited by y=mx+b; 08-04-2021 at 12:31 PM.
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