4LO Indicator on. Not in 4WD!!

I've had my 4LO come on about a dozen times. It is usually when I'm accelerating up mountain passes. I'm always in 2HI when it happens and it won't clear till I turn the vehicle off.

Anyone have any further info?

Take it to the dealer and have them do what I had done. I haven't had that light in over 7-8k miles.

I'm thinking it was a loose connection or they reset the ECU for the 4WD.
 
I just have a small update. Last week when it snowed 7" in Raleigh, NC. I was out playing in the snow. (I have to take advantage of these times here it doesn't happen very often). Had the 08 in 4x4 HI center diff locked and the 4LO light came on. After switching back to 2HI the light went out. It was a Sunday so no visit to the dealer was possible. So it has happened it 2HI and 4HI.
 
I just have a small update. Last week when it snowed 7" in Raleigh, NC. I was out playing in the snow. (I have to take advantage of these times here it doesn't happen very often). Had the 08 in 4x4 HI center diff locked and the 4LO light came on. After switching back to 2HI the light went out. It was a Sunday so no visit to the dealer was possible. So it has happened it 2HI and 4HI.

Take it to the dealer anyways, if you have the truck repeat the problem. Don't shut it off or switch it from the 2wd/4wd mode that it is in, as the computer does a quick retest of the system. Same with shutting it off.

Either way jump on the service guys desk till they take a look at it (DON'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER), I went in armed with approximate mileage of each reoccurance, plus pictures of mileage and speeds when the light came on.

If it's not possible to get it to the dealer, take a picture with your phone to prove to the dealer that the truck is not in the 4LO mode.

Since my truck was "diagnosed" at the Toyota dealer they should be able to find what to do in the system. I will post below what they reported in my service report.

CONTACTED TAS CASE #091070185.

04/21/2009 4 LO LIGHT COMES ON 4 LO LIGHT COMES ON ~|~CUST STATES 4 LOW LIGHT COMES ON INTERMITTENTLY WHILE DRIVING. NORMALLY 45-55 MPH WHEN CRUISING. VEHICLE DOES NOT ENGAGE IN 4 LOW. JUST THE LIGHT COMES ON. IT WILL GO OFF WHEN KEY IS CYCLED. ADVISE ~|~ ~|~10359 INSPECTED CUSTOMERS CONCERN. TEST DROVE 44 MILES. COULD NOT DUPLICATE 4 LO LIGHT COMMING ON. CONTACTED TAS CASE #091070185. PERFORMED PIN TEST. PERFORMED WIGGLE TEST. CHECKED FOR SHORT TO GROUND. NONE FOUND. OHM TESTED ALL WIRES. ALL WIRES PASSED OH


Hope all this info helps you out. Oh yeah I haven't seen it reoccur in from my current almost 35K miles from when it was looked at around 10K miles.
 
I had the same thing happen to mine when it was snowing here over christmas. Except for mine didn't stay on, just random on and off. Now the center diff light blinks everytime I start it, sometimes for a few seconds, or several minutes. Seen this before?
 
I thought I was the only one. It is sporadic, and it hasn't happened in awhile, but it has. Usually when I went above a certain speed, it was below freezing, and I was going up a steeper grade. Glad to know Im not alone now. lol
 
I found this thread while searching for a problem. My new to me 04 V8 limited 94k miles is randomly showing its in 4 lo but its not. It drives fine. No signs of anything out of the ordinary. It switches from 4hi to 4lo locked, or not. I do have to turn the the switch very slowly. But it all seems to be working right, just this light is coming on. I can cycle it from 4h to 4l and it will go off and stay off for a while but will come back on just whenever.

I did notice something very odd though. At one point it sort of flickered a few times like it was getting a bad ground or shorting out. Is there a TCM or module that I could check for a bad connection or is there some more info out there about this. As this thread is quite old.

I could use some help. TIA

-Zach
 
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I found this thread while searching for a problem. My new to me 04 V8 limited 94k miles is randomly showing its in 4 lo but its not. It drives fine. No signs of anything out of the ordinary. It switches from 4hi to 4lo locked, or not. I do have to turn the the switch very slowly. But it all seems to be working right, just this light is coming on. I can cycle it from 4h to 4l and it will go off and stay off for a while but will come back on just whenever.

I did notice something very odd though. At one point it sort of flickered a few times like it was getting a bad ground or shorting out. Is there a TCM or module that I could check for a bad connection or is there some more info out there about this. As this thread is quite old.

I could use some help. TIA

-Zach

I think the 4wd ecu is behind the glove box if I remember correctly. I would try unplugging the battery overnight to reset all the ECU's on the vehicle (not sure if there is another way to do that).

So far I have yet to have the random 4LO light come on since having the dealer take a look at it too. Also since this is a used vehicle, have you checked the fluids in your diff? I doubt it will have any effect, but I am just OCD that way.
 
Thanks for the reply. I haven't checked the fluids but they are going to be changed very soon. My OCD.. Its done it a few more times since I posted this, then didnt do it the last 3 errands I ran today. So Im stumped.

I used to work for a Toyota dealership, and still have friends in the service department there. I will go see them tomorrow and see what they think. Maybe they have heard of this and can give me some advice.

Ill update my findings as soon as I talk to them.

thanks
 
Ok. I visited my friends at the dealership. Pretty much got the usual. Bring it in and we can look at it. No real thought or back and forth on ideas. Well. Im not baller enough for that.

Next stop was to my independent shop. Owned by Toyota master tech. A good friend. He was a lot more help. Spent about 30min brainstorming with me. Looked up tsb's anything he could find. He gave me a few things to look at but was hesitant to suggest its the TC actuator. He seems to think its electrical.

Side note though. Ever since this has been happening I've been switching between 4lo/4hi and just drive around the parking lot or the neighborhood. Just to work the system. The light has not come back on since Lunch this past Sunday.
 
Just an update. Still have not had time to really look around or wiggle any harnesses but it is still doing it randomly. Still not driving like anythings wrong. This weekend Ill bring it to work and see if I can find anything.
 
Just an update. Still have not had time to really look around or wiggle any harnesses but it is still doing it randomly. Still not driving like anythings wrong. This weekend Ill bring it to work and see if I can find anything.

Please let us know what you find! Curious to see the resolution to this issue.
 
This sounds like a wiring problem for sure ethier an open or a ground.
Wihout a schematic it is had to trouble shoot but if you had one and chased the wires that turn the light on I bet you will find the problem.
 
Ok well the truck must be possessed. We went out for ice cream and on the trip home the damn thing lit up like Christmas VSC off, trac off, 4lo flashing, CEL all on. Wont engage 4lo. flashes and beeps non stop when switched to 4 hi and when set to 4lo it shuts up and drives like normal. Still have all the lights on though.
I have a sinking feeling that its the transfer case actuator

I've been wrenching on cars for years. Worked for Toyota and Nissan dealers for nearly 16. I'm stumped. Guess it goes to the shop.

I sold a bmw to buy a toyota for its reliability. So much for that.
 
Final update and ultimate solution. Has been 100% trouble free for a couple weeks now.
I had the dealer take a look and they diagnosed the 4wd computer. I replaced that.. That cleared the codes and the lights. I was advised to replace the transfer case and to not use 4lo until I did. They felt that the actuator was in some way sending a bad signal or voltage to the 4wd computer.( It had already had been replaced once apparently It had a used case in it)
It might sound a bit suspicious but I had worked for the dealer that I took it to for years and trust them .

I found a low mile unit for $400. I installed that myself. So the Tcase, a seal that was needed, some fluid and the computer $250 plus diag comes to about $1000. Truck is back to normal.
Honestly these are such nice vehicles, im not even really pissed off about it. Normally I would be pretty ticked off especially since I hadnt even made the first payment when this happened, I love driving it. I cant wait to mod it and the girlfriend and dog love it. What else can I say.
 
Glad you fixed the issue finally.

So you replaced the 4wd computer and the complete transfer case?

If the dealer was concerned about a bad voltage signal from the T case why not just replace the actuator and not the T case? The actuator is actually the thing that is giving this signal to the computer.

How hard was it to replace the t case yourself?
 
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Glad you fixed the issue finally.

So you replaced the 4wd computer and the complete transfer case?

I did exactly that. Sort of cutting off your head to spite your face..

If the dealer was concerned about a bad voltage signal from the T case why not just replace the actuator and not the T case? The actuator is actually the thing that is giving this signal to the computer.

This is true and a good question. From what I understand the actuator was not really easy to remove. Not DIY part. Priced from the dealer the new actuator before labor was over $750 bux. The whole used tcase with actuator and a 3 year warranty was 400$

How hard was it to replace the t case yourself?

It was really not hard at all. Drop the skidplates, remove a crossmember unplug the elec connector, pull both driveshafts, unbolt tcase and pull the ole girl out of there. There is a seal that you should replace thats in the back of the trans.. pn 90311-43008 for refrence.. other than being a heavy awkward heavy bastard it was easy. I bet I could do it in less than 2 hrs next time.
 
Glad you fixed the issue finally.

So you replaced the 4wd computer and the complete transfer case?

I did exactly that. Sort of cutting off your head to spite your face..

If the dealer was concerned about a bad voltage signal from the T case why not just replace the actuator and not the T case? The actuator is actually the thing that is giving this signal to the computer.

This is true and a good question. From what I understand the actuator was not really easy to remove. Not DIY part. Priced from the dealer the new actuator before labor was over $750 bux. The whole used tcase with actuator and a 3 year warranty was 400$

How hard was it to replace the t case yourself?

It was really not hard at all. Drop the skidplates, remove a crossmember unplug the elec connector, pull both driveshafts, unbolt tcase and pull the ole girl out of there. There is a seal that you should replace thats in the back of the trans.. pn 90311-43008 for refrence.. other than being a heavy awkward heavy bastard it was easy. I bet I could do it in less than 2 hrs next time.

Sounds good. Glad it was easy to do and most importantly glad you did it yourself!

Do you still have your old T-Case?

If you do you should open it up and try to properly remove/replace the actuator and do some sort of small DIY with pics.

I know there is lots of confusion on this forum that some people say you can remove the actuator without opening up the t-case and some people say that you have to open up the t case to remove the actuator! Would be nice for someone to do a DIY on it. Just a thought! :biggrin1:
 
The issue with the people who say they can pop the actuator out without removing the T-case is that it causes problems later down the road.

For example, one member tried this method and the shit rod became tweaked later down the road and he ended up having to get a new T-case anyways. The shaft is pinned to the actuator itself internally, which is why its a pain to do and cannot be effectively removed from the T-case without tearing it apart. Another member tried to take apart the actuator itself to sort of backdoor remove it, I don't know if they ever figured out the timing of the actuator mechanism and if it worked properly in teh long run. Toyota makes it extremely clear that those actutators should NEVER (they like the big bold red letters in our documentation lol) be torn apart, ever.
 
That's what I had found. Its a shame really. There is nothing wrong with the oily parts of the tcase. That works just fine. Always did. The actuator design is dumb. For something that is plastic, under the vehicle and easily damaged you would have thought Toyota would have made either cheap and easy to fix or bullet proof.
I guess we are just lucky that its not that expensive to find a used one. But if you do, get the warranty. Its not something I want to have to do again.
 

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