Geaux504360
New member
You Rock Buddy
Where did you get the 64mm filter wrench? Toyota wants $64 for it; that is crazy.
Where did you get the 64mm filter wrench? Toyota wants $64 for it; that is crazy.
Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
Lester Lugnut
New member
Yes it is.
This one works quite nicely:
Private Brand Tools 71113A Toyota/Lexus Oil Filter Housing Tool 6 & 8 Cyl
Not plugging the web site - just pointing out the tool mfg and part number. You can find it on amazon/ebay/lots of places.
This is a solid pro quality tool that a lot of techs use, made in the USA: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PK3AG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also for anyone with a TRD Pro the front skid plate only requires the removal of the four bolts and it comes straight off...no hinge to deal with. hth
sandcrawler
Senior Member
interesting seeing these two posts back-to-back. the Private Brand is a 64.5mm while the Assenmacher is a 64mm.
i don't know what mine is exactly, but i got it at the parts counter and it looks more similar to the Assemacher, although it isn't the same. in any case, i'm going to pick up the 64.5mm Private Brand for my next oil change and give it a try. mine works but seems just slightly too snug on the housing, and i'm curious if that extra 0.5mm will make it fit like a glove.
thanks for posting these.
:cheers:
Lester Lugnut
New member
I have a lot of oil filter/housing removal tools. What I've noticed with quite a few of these tools is they tend to stick on to the filter/housing after loosening. It could be a $3 Walmart cheapie tool or one of these higher priced gadgets made especially for a given application.
I simply wiggle the tool gently from side to side with the ratchet and extension still attached to the tool. Breaks the tool loose from the filter/housing every time.
I simply wiggle the tool gently from side to side with the ratchet and extension still attached to the tool. Breaks the tool loose from the filter/housing every time.
Blitzkrieg
New member
Great write-up for a guy like me that just bought a 5th gen and wants to know what the oil change will entail. Thank You.
Question (hopefully I didn't miss it being asked before in all the posts on this thread):
This step: "Install the metal drain plug and re-tighten until snug (Spec is 10 ft-lb) Do NOT tighten too much, so as to turn the plastic housing!)"
Is there any reason why this could not be done before the cartridge is remounted? Like it would unseat the filter or something like that? Just curious.
Question (hopefully I didn't miss it being asked before in all the posts on this thread):
This step: "Install the metal drain plug and re-tighten until snug (Spec is 10 ft-lb) Do NOT tighten too much, so as to turn the plastic housing!)"
Is there any reason why this could not be done before the cartridge is remounted? Like it would unseat the filter or something like that? Just curious.
stir_fry_boy
New member
TRD PRO Oil Change I made a YT video on how to change the oil, posted on my channel (HondaSolutions). Feel free to give me feedback on how I did. Specifically it's for the TRD PRO.
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Antman
Elite Member
It really doesn't matter. You can even leave that metal plug on there for the change, it'll just make more of a mess...
Ron4RNevada
New member
Why change oil hot?
I've seen it mentioned here and on a few other threads on this site, "Drive the car until the oil is hot before changing the oil". Why?
Understandably, the techs at dealerships and independent shops are forced to change oil hot; but that's because the customer has just driven it in and the tech would have to wait a long time for engine to cool down.
For about 65 years I've been changing oil on my own rigs and other peoples - I'm very careful to run the engine for only a minute or so to get it up on a ramp. Just so I don't skald myself on 250 degree motor oil. Ever had to fish for the wrench or drain plug in that HOT drain pan?
If the reasoning is that the oil drains more efficiently. I can't see any advantage. The last time the engine was run it only took about two minutes for all of the oil to run down from the cams, rockers and nooks and crannies into the filter and pan. So all the "bad stuff" is already in the pan.
In fact, after I carefully put the truck up on the ramps, I go back inside and have another cup of coffee to let it cool down some more. Getting the filter off my wife's Camry; you don't even want to be near that manifold!
So - Any advantage to changing it hot that I'm not comprehending?
I've seen it mentioned here and on a few other threads on this site, "Drive the car until the oil is hot before changing the oil". Why?
Understandably, the techs at dealerships and independent shops are forced to change oil hot; but that's because the customer has just driven it in and the tech would have to wait a long time for engine to cool down.
For about 65 years I've been changing oil on my own rigs and other peoples - I'm very careful to run the engine for only a minute or so to get it up on a ramp. Just so I don't skald myself on 250 degree motor oil. Ever had to fish for the wrench or drain plug in that HOT drain pan?
If the reasoning is that the oil drains more efficiently. I can't see any advantage. The last time the engine was run it only took about two minutes for all of the oil to run down from the cams, rockers and nooks and crannies into the filter and pan. So all the "bad stuff" is already in the pan.
In fact, after I carefully put the truck up on the ramps, I go back inside and have another cup of coffee to let it cool down some more. Getting the filter off my wife's Camry; you don't even want to be near that manifold!
So - Any advantage to changing it hot that I'm not comprehending?
ggunn9
New member
I did an oil change last weekend.
This thread was very helpful as it was my first time changing the oil on my 2013 SR5.
I did not use a drain plug gasket. And boy was that the wrong thing to do.
Apparently I didn't tighten the drain plug all the way. I have a trail of oil all the way down the bottom side of my vehicle. Did I mention that I changed the oil a week ago. The oil drain bolt is still in there but it was leaking. I never not to really tighten the bolt in my 4th gen.
Needless to say I had to refill my oil and I am VERY interested in the oil drain plug gasket. lol.
- Toyota oil drain plug gasket part # 90430-12031 I think this part number changed to 90430-12028, but I bought some from a local auto parts store.
This thread was very helpful as it was my first time changing the oil on my 2013 SR5.
I did not use a drain plug gasket. And boy was that the wrong thing to do.
Apparently I didn't tighten the drain plug all the way. I have a trail of oil all the way down the bottom side of my vehicle. Did I mention that I changed the oil a week ago. The oil drain bolt is still in there but it was leaking. I never not to really tighten the bolt in my 4th gen.
Needless to say I had to refill my oil and I am VERY interested in the oil drain plug gasket. lol.
- Toyota oil drain plug gasket part # 90430-12031 I think this part number changed to 90430-12028, but I bought some from a local auto parts store.
ggunn9
New member
yeah even a blind squirrel finds a nut every so often. lol
Blitzkrieg
New member
Yep, and its a big one.
1) Take a glass of cold (or even lukewarm) water and throw a tablespoon of salt in it. Let it sit for 5 minutes.
What happens? The salt goes straight to the bottom of the glass and sits there. Picture the glass as being your oil pan.
2) Now take that same glass of water and salt, put it in the microwave for 90 seconds and stir it up.
Can't see the salt anymore right?
Dump the contents in step 1 out and you will be left with a bunch of salt all over the glass. Dump the contents in step 2 out and the glass will be essentially spotless.
The water is your oil, the salt is oil contaminants. Hot oil suspends the contaminants and they drain with the oil. Cold oil - they stay behind.
Blitzkrieg
New member
Actually what I was getting at (may not have been clear) Antman, was do the procedure as you stated but putting the drain plug back on the filter cartridge BEFORE reinstalling it.
My truck is brand new (so no oil changes) so curious if that would be easier. Things like clearance issues on the filter removal tool (with the drain plug installed) or screwing up the filter by doing that are just two things I'd be curious if they'd be an issue.
Just thinking out loud and finding the easiest way to do it.
Ron4RNevada
New member
The contaminates are not salt. Oil is not water. Your experiment does not apply to carbon, metal, acid and fuel in the oil.
Any carbon that that has been in your oil has already been emulsified in the oil. It has a very long latency in the oil (weeks at least) - That's why the oil turns black.
Any water in the oil is already resting on the bottom of the pan near the drain.
Any acids or fuel is emulsified or diluted in the oil. It also has a long latency period.
So if the engine has been run at all in the last week, everything comes out with the COLD oil.
- -
Any carbon that that has been in your oil has already been emulsified in the oil. It has a very long latency in the oil (weeks at least) - That's why the oil turns black.
Any water in the oil is already resting on the bottom of the pan near the drain.
Any acids or fuel is emulsified or diluted in the oil. It also has a long latency period.
So if the engine has been run at all in the last week, everything comes out with the COLD oil.
- -
Blitzkrieg
New member
You are wrong but I can see that arguing with somebody who has been doing it wrong as long as you have is futile.
Have fun.
stir_fry_boy
New member
I do it hot to get more oil out, and have it drain quicker. I do however think that replacing the bottom plug in the canister after canister installation makes more sense to me. That way I'm sure that it's not tighter than the canister.
There is more than 1 way to skin a cat.
There is more than 1 way to skin a cat.
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