Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

Oil change tips, Thanks

renau001 said:

This is a push pin, no prying required. Push in hard on the center, and then the center pin will pull right out. Then the outer sleeve portion is free to pull out as well. When you put back in, put the outer sleeve in, then the center pin. Easy peasy.

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I have no idea what plastic part you two are talking about. I have been everywhere under the car installing my lift and installing the RCI full skids and then removing the skids yesterday in preparation for doing the engine oil and gear oil change. The only plastic part I know of is the oil filter canister, and it is strickly spin-off, AFAIK.

Sure, but don't discount some ramps if you wanna be able to roll around under there. Definitely forgo the jack/stands for this job.

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Yes, I cannot roll over when I'm under the car, even with the 3" lift and tires.

Warm up engine and shut off. Take out dipstick. Wait 5 minutes. Put dipstick back in and count to 10 or so. Take out dipstick and look at level. Works every time for me.

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Good tip. Makes sense too. Thanks.

Yep, confidence required if you don't wanna make a mess.

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Are you speaking of asking a woman out, or cars?

71 lb-in, snug is fine too

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That's about 5.2 foot-lbs. I'm not sure my torque wrench goes that low. Maybe use just an open end wrench and hang 5&1/4 pounds at 12" from the nut?
:thumb:

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DesertCanyons said:

I have no idea what plastic part you two are talking about. I have been everywhere under the car installing my lift and installing the RCI full skids and then removing the skids yesterday in preparation for doing the engine oil and gear oil change. The only plastic part I know of is the oil filter canister, and it is strickly spin-off, AFAIK.

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I assumed [MENTION=170444]dayprota[/MENTION] was talking about this thing.

Antman said:

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renau001 said:

This is a push pin, no prying required. Push in hard on the center, and then the center pin will pull right out. Then the outer sleeve portion is free to pull out as well. When you put back in, put the outer sleeve in, then the center pin. Easy peasy.

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renau001 said:

I assumed [MENTION=170444]dayprota[/MENTION] was talking about this thing.

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Actually you have to pull out the center like I show in the picture then remove the outer ring. To install place the outer ring first and insert the pin.:hello:

Antman said:

Actually you have to pull out the center like I show in the picture then remove the outer ring. To install place the outer ring first and insert the pin.:hello:

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Just checked and of course you’re right. It is not a 2-stage push pin like the ones on the radiator cover like I was thinking. However, that method has always worked for me. Push in on the center and the male pin pulls right out without any resistance. I probably just have a defective part.

Front skid OEM filler plate

renau001 said:

I assumed [MENTION=170444]dayprota[/MENTION] was talking about this thing.

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Thanks.
Okay, now I see the plastic part you guys were talking about. That's the plastic filler plate in front of the front skid. The top edge connects under or behind the bumper. It's got to be removed before removing the OEM skid plate. It doesn't fit on the RCI engine skid plate because there's no holes for the bolts or that plastic pin. I bought the RCI filler plate to keep brush off of the radiator. I have an extra filler piece if anyone wants it. Otherwise I have to recycle it.

you cannot read the oil dip stick looks like 13 qts ??? I hope you did not drain the tranny pan .... instead of the engine oil pan ..

it does happen !

Antman said:

Using your ratchet and 64mm filter wrench (make sure your ratchet is in "reverse!"), remove the filter housing. It will be tight, and stay tight until it's almost all the way off.



CONTINUED

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Thank you for stating that, i thought mine was messed up or something...it was so tight until the o-ring was past the lip.

I suggest getting one of these;

Form a Funnell. Saves the mess on oil changes / filters / cartridges.

https://www.amazon.com/FORM-FUNNEL-...1523154241&sr=8-1&keywords=form+a+funnel&th=1

When you drop the cartridge no mess!

I finished the engine oil change and installation of a remote oil filter made by Baxter Performance. The adapter spins in where the OEM filter canister was. From there I ran AN-10 hoses up to an open spot over the driver's side wheel well where I mounted a remote, inverted oil filter adapter. Made in the USA. I now have a Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter that's easy to access and change without removing the RCI skid plates. I'll post a How-To thread with photos in a few days.

I read the DIY instructions in this thread again before I started the oil change and remote filter install. Thanks again to Antman for posting this thread.

Even though the I’ve done this a few times, I still look at this thread before every oil change.
This is one of my favorite activities for a saturday morning


Thanks again for the excellent write up [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]

I use an old Blender Bottle.
Open up the bottle cap, insert the filter nozzle, and press/hold
not one drop of oil gets on me :cheers:

Great write up!

Great write up! Thanks antman!

Bill of Materials 2014 SR5

I'll add my thanks for this thread.

I was doing the change on a 2014 SR5 with 108,000 miles I bought with 102,000 last year. I don't drive a lot of miles per year but the previous owner had traded it in after hitting 102K in about 38 months. Carfax showed regular dealer visits.

I printed out this original post (without the pictures) and also the DIY post here DIY Maintenance Quick Reference and referred to both many times.

I did the change on ramps, so didn't have to remove the skid plate, just let it hang.

I had a few small departures from the instructions and issues.

1. My plastic cover under the bumper only had five bolts and the plastic push pin to remove, not seven?

2. I forgot/missed needing a new gasket for the drain plug, so cleaned the old one stuck to the pan and reused. How much of an issue is that? Also, the drain plug seemed to have been glued down on one edge, is that a dealer thing? (see picture)

3. One of my Skid Plate bolts was missing, threads were fine so I guess someone lost it during the first 102,000 miles. Put it back together without it, will get a replacement for the next change.

4. There was a piece of cardboard duct taped in the back center of the skid plate which fell out. Strange?

Just for laughs I made a list of everything I bought to do this first oil change

Things needed every time.

1 - 5 qt Mobil 1 High Mileage 0W-20 @ $22.88
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-High-Mileage-Motor-Oil-0W-20-5-qt/55502866
$22.88

2 - 1 qt Mobil 1 High Mileage 0W-20 @ $7.88
$15.76

1 - Toyota Genuine Oil Filter @ $7.31
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C65DYQ/
$7.31

Total supplies = $45.95

Missed buying new drain plug gasket.Will check for leaks periodically.

One time purchases to be able to do the change easily

Package of Toyota Drain Plug Gaskets @ $8.47
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OW6MD6

Aluminum Toyota Oil Filter Cap Assembly @ $19.95
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-15620-31060-Filter-Assembly/dp/B008BHP68A

Large Plastic Drain Pan @ $16.38
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7EU5CM

Motivx MX2320 Filter Wrench @ $24.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XTAGHU0

Motivx Engine Oil Funnel @ $14.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FVJUX0

Large Galvanized Drip Pan @ $31.54
https://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1715-Silver-Galvanized-Drip/dp/B000MCXOR2

Three Gallon Recycle Jug @ $6.11
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11849-Dispos-Oil-Recycle/dp/B0014FKI1Q

Total one-time items $122.35

Sorry about the giant images, thought they would auto resize using the attachment manager.

Just did my first oil change at ~4500mi, switched over to synthetic. Fairly easy except getting the TRDP skip plate back on was a pain. Over torqued the metal filter plug very slightly when reinstalling it, don't think I damaged anything but it'll probably be a pain getting it off the plastic housing next oil change. Oh well, you live and learn.

Beginning to end took about 1 hour. :tea:

Thanks OP for the write-up.

kaikaikai said:

Just did my first oil change at ~4500mi, switched over to synthetic. Fairly easy except getting the TRDP skip plate back on was a pain. Over torqued the metal filter plug very slightly when reinstalling it, don't think I damaged anything but it'll probably be a pain getting it off the plastic housing next oil change. Oh well, you live and learn.

Beginning to end took about 1 hour. :tea:

Thanks OP for the write-up.

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Why wouldn't you go to the dealer for your first change? Toyota care provides free maintenance, including oil for the first 25k.

docsnavely said:

Why wouldn't you go to the dealer for your first change? Toyota care provides free maintenance, including oil for the first 25k.

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Because they strip bolts and f it up all the time.

Mine hasn’t been back to the dealer since I bought it - except when hey had to program a new key.

I guess it all depends on your dealer's service department. Mine has always been super helpful and never screwed up my gear.

I do plan on putting wheel spacers on, but only after my Toyota Care expires. That's one thing I have heard is pretty universally screwed up by any and all commercial service spots.

docsnavely said:

Why wouldn't you go to the dealer for your first change? Toyota care provides free maintenance, including oil for the first 25k.

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Toyotacare 5k service is only tire rotation and fluid check, which I didn't need. As others have said, some parts on the car are also very prone to being stripped or damaged if the service is done carelessly, and I didn't want to risk that on my new car.