Brakepad check at 32,000 Miles, 80,000+ Miles,101,000 Miles
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1000MPH
Senior Member
Update: 80,000+ miles.
Brake pads and rotors look great. I pulled the pins, wiped, and applied 3M silicone paste.
Looks like I need new shocks though.
Brake Parts
Front Rotor 4351260191
Front Brake Pads 0446560320
Front Shim Kit: 0494560090
Front Caliper Pins: 4773560300
Front Caliper Pin hold (Spring): 4774360280
Front Caliper Springs (fitting kit): 0494735050
Front Anti-Rattle Spring: 4774835010 (not needed if using fitting kit?)
Rear Rotor 4243160311
Rear Brake Pads 0446660140
Rear Shim Kit: 0494660141 / 0494660140
Rear Caliper Fitting kit: 0494722050
Do Not Use
- these kits are economy quality -
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM
Torque specs:
Front brake caliper mounting bolts: 91 lb-ft (17mm) note: 137 lb-ft if you have 19mm bolts.
Rear brake caliper mounting bolts: 77 lb-ft (17mm)
Rear brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)
Brake pads and rotors look great. I pulled the pins, wiped, and applied 3M silicone paste.
Looks like I need new shocks though.
Brake Parts
Front Rotor 4351260191
Front Brake Pads 0446560320
Front Shim Kit: 0494560090
Front Caliper Pins: 4773560300
Front Caliper Pin hold (Spring): 4774360280
Front Caliper Springs (fitting kit): 0494735050
Front Anti-Rattle Spring: 4774835010 (not needed if using fitting kit?)
Rear Rotor 4243160311
Rear Brake Pads 0446660140
Rear Shim Kit: 0494660141 / 0494660140
Rear Caliper Fitting kit: 0494722050
Do Not Use
- these kits are economy quality -
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM
Torque specs:
Front brake caliper mounting bolts: 91 lb-ft (17mm) note: 137 lb-ft if you have 19mm bolts.
Rear brake caliper mounting bolts: 77 lb-ft (17mm)
Rear brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)
Attachments
Last edited:
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Still the original pads?
When I had the tires replaced last week on my 2015 4Runner TRD I inspected the brake pads and at 34K miles the original Toyota brake pads look like they have about another at least 35K miles left on them. I drive Houston city stop-and-go and freeway. Pleasantly surprised at the longevity of the brake components.
My old 2002 Toyota Sequoia was a lot harder on the front pads for sure.
My old 2002 Toyota Sequoia was a lot harder on the front pads for sure.
Ripper238
Senior Member
Seriously, 100k on original pads and rotors. That's impressive.
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Charlievee
Senior Member
What material are the stock pads? I'm guessing semi metalic?
Mutant138
Banned
Dark matter apparently. 100k is pretty impressive.
Charlievee
Senior Member
Trick is... Don't use the brakes. Lol
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1000MPH
Senior Member
This! Yes original pads. I added a pic of the rears to the previous post. I’ve cleaned and lubed the pins a couple times. I’m probably going to do a fluid change this summer if I can find the time. Rotors are still really nice. Can’t seem to get a good pic of those. I pulled the wheels to finally plasti-dip them. The clear coat on the machined edge of the rims is half peeled off. Going to try this. If it doesn’t work I’ve got another set in new condition.
Attachments
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1000MPH
Senior Member
I’m getting closer to changing mine. I took advantage of the free shipping this month from Toyota Parts and Accessories - Official Online Store and bought front and rear pads and shims. I bought aftermarket springs and pins as well as brake lube and silicone paste on amazon a year or so ago.
1000MPH
Senior Member
After 111,000 miles and 10 years my brake pads still look very good.
So I decided to replace the brake fluid.
I bought 2 qts (one for backup) of Prestone DOT 3 from Walmart for about $7 ea.
Made a gravity bleed bottle from an old plastic OJ bottle, a few feet of 1/4” id clear vinyl tubing, and a couple of zip ties.
Remember to keep the bottle and tubing above the bleeder and you shouldn’t have any issues with air bubbles.
The ABS motor makes the rears go quickly. I did two 20 second sessions of 4 motor runs while checking both the master cylinder res and my drain tubing/bottle setup in between.
The fronts I simply let gravity do it’s thing, about half hour on each.
The last pic is before and after. I really can’t tell the difference.
So I decided to replace the brake fluid.
I bought 2 qts (one for backup) of Prestone DOT 3 from Walmart for about $7 ea.
Made a gravity bleed bottle from an old plastic OJ bottle, a few feet of 1/4” id clear vinyl tubing, and a couple of zip ties.
Remember to keep the bottle and tubing above the bleeder and you shouldn’t have any issues with air bubbles.
The ABS motor makes the rears go quickly. I did two 20 second sessions of 4 motor runs while checking both the master cylinder res and my drain tubing/bottle setup in between.
The fronts I simply let gravity do it’s thing, about half hour on each.
The last pic is before and after. I really can’t tell the difference.
Attachments
Last edited:
1000MPH
Senior Member
Mileage: 115k
Today is tire rotation day.
I pulled the caliper pins and cleaned them up on a wire wheel. Then applied a thin film of silicone paste.
I also pulled the rear caliper slide pins for the first time. The grease was still plentiful and in near new condition so I just redistributed it a little.
I also took a brake hub cleaning tool to the mounting surfaces. It’s a bit of a pain when the disc is still on the truck. Can’t get every nook and cranny.
I joke about maybe this year is the year I can change pads. Doesn’t look like it.
Torque specs:
Rear brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)
Today is tire rotation day.
I pulled the caliper pins and cleaned them up on a wire wheel. Then applied a thin film of silicone paste.
I also pulled the rear caliper slide pins for the first time. The grease was still plentiful and in near new condition so I just redistributed it a little.
I also took a brake hub cleaning tool to the mounting surfaces. It’s a bit of a pain when the disc is still on the truck. Can’t get every nook and cranny.
I joke about maybe this year is the year I can change pads. Doesn’t look like it.
Torque specs:
Rear brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)
Attachments
Last edited:
Got 130K on mine and still had life left in them.
Unfortunately, my original wheel bearing on the driver side rear wheel went out so I replaced both rear wheel bearings and replaced both rear wheel discs and pads just because.
I still have 3mm left on the front pads after 130K miles on original pads and discs.
It helps to understand that there is another choice between gas and brake; its called coasting and it works well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Unfortunately, my original wheel bearing on the driver side rear wheel went out so I replaced both rear wheel bearings and replaced both rear wheel discs and pads just because.
I still have 3mm left on the front pads after 130K miles on original pads and discs.
It helps to understand that there is another choice between gas and brake; its called coasting and it works well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1000MPH
Senior Member
Oops, added to original post. 115k
Good to know there are others out there.
I admit a lot of my driving is in optimal conditions these days.
I looked around while I had the wheels off and did a half-ass check of the bearings. I may need tie rod service soon, gotta look a little closer, and I’ve got pretty decent valve cover seepage behind the alternator.
