8 inch subs/midsubs in the front doors???

flounder1

New member
Hi Guys,

I blew out my mb quart 6.5 speakers in my doors but my crossover and tweeter are fine. I have an mb quart marko amp pushing them 80 watts per channel. A weird problem with a phone call and a loud pop from the Bluetooth made them go bad at any low frequency.

Here is my question can I fit 8 inch subs in the doors with out much modding besides brackets? I still want to use the cross overs and tweeters and they actually sound really good. Does anyone no the depth we have in the doors before hitting anything?

Also if I go this route do I need to buy specific mid/subs or can it be any sub with the proper frequency range. I was looking at the sundown audio neo2 8 drivers. At 149 a pair. Or am I just better off getting whole new components the cost is about the same but I was hoping to get a bit more real sounding base. I don't like the sound subs in boxes plus I really don't have the room.

I tried following ant mans thread but I don't see where he actually put 8s in the doors. I see under the seat.

By the way the doors are treated with U seal it from Home depot and trust my I have used dyno matt and some other products and man its a great alternative. No smell after a year of using. I would love to line the whole floor and ceiling but I really don't have the time to take the whole truck apart.

Thanks,
guys for any positive feedback.

also can someone attach the thread for the reverse wire under drive foot well I have tried like 3 red wires with no luck.
:help:
 
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"...Here is my question can I fit 8 inch subs in the doors with out much modding besides brackets?..."

Hi flounder,

Gotta be careful when choosing speakers for your doors. This environment is subject to large amounts of water/very high humidity; true 'Door speakers' are made particularly for that purpose.

"...Also if I go this route do I need to buy specific mid/subs or can it be any sub with the proper frequency range.

I assume you're using the term *SUBS* in a generic sense; as in "Woofers"... a mid-range driver and a sub aren't designed to operate in the same pass-band or air space confines. A sub-woofer's assignment is immensely exclusive and needs to be controlled both physically... 'and electronically' whereas a midrange component, electronically controlled only (high-pass filtering, power management, etc).

Cheers!
 
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You can squeak 8.75" Morel Elates in there :)


Agree with Rigtec - Sub and Midbass are two different drivers. Also agreed you need to make sure you keep as much moisture off the speakers as possible (true for any door mounted speaker). So far, after more than 2 years of the Elates in my doors, not a peep of moisture related issues...

4KW 2013 T4R Build Log for anyone interested

Needless to say, I love a healthy serving of Midbass from the front stage. Not quite enough to keep up with the sub-stage - but 900 WRMS on the front-stage alone does the trick...

:cool:
 
Very cool. I like your style. So couple quick questions. How thick where the spacers that where used? And did you use Styrofoam between the spacer and the door? It looks like something white under the mdf. Or was that just a templet. And I didn't look up those woofers. But are they clarified as a mid woofer not a sub woofer and if so what do you have the crossed over at. Could I utilize my mb quart crossovers and tweeters with a mid woofer of a diffrent brand. Just trying to get other people's experiences to help get the sound stage without spending another 3 to 5 hundred bucks. The ground work is done the wiring and the amp and sound deadening is done just thinking a mid 8 will give me the depth I want for the type of music I listen to. I actually like good depth and sound at lower volumes which is difficult to do. I have spent thousands in my hometheater to accomplish this but just don't have the buget to go crazy.

Did you dead end the roof yet if so how hard to take the headliner down
 
Very cool. I like your style. So couple quick questions. How thick where the spacers that where used? And did you use Styrofoam between the spacer and the door? It looks like something white under the mdf. Or was that just a templet. And I didn't look up those woofers. But are they clarified as a mid woofer not a sub woofer and if so what do you have the crossed over at. Could I utilize my mb quart crossovers and tweeters with a mid woofer of a diffrent brand. Just trying to get other people's experiences to help get the sound stage without spending another 3 to 5 hundred bucks. The ground work is done the wiring and the amp and sound deadening is done just thinking a mid 8 will give me the depth I want for the type of music I listen to. I actually like good depth and sound at lower volumes which is difficult to do. I have spent thousands in my hometheater to accomplish this but just don't have the buget to go crazy.

Did you dead end the roof yet if so how hard to take the headliner down

Thanks - This is my highest-scale mobile install to date. Not the largest sub stage I've ever run, but certainly the most well-balanced and best sounding for sure.

I can't take credit for the front door mounting rings, 4" dash pods, or custom RUX mount low in the dash - I farmed those out to a "Pro Installer" as my skills there are passable, but not up to par with the end results I wanted for my nice new T4R. Everything but those 3 items was all me :)

For the door rings, I believe he used a combo of MDF and some kind of ABS material similar to synthetic cutting board. The 2 layers were all he needed for clearance, and they still fit completely behind the stock door panels! Doors look 100% factory.

Mine happen to be the "Woofers" from the Elate 2-Way component set, not the 9" Elate subs. They would happily run upto 2KHz to meet a tweeter, but I limit them to 63Hz - 315Hz where the 4" point-source dash speakers take over (and the three 12"s take over below 63Hz).

There are MUCH cheaper alternatives for 8"-9" midbasses - likely way down in the $200/pr range that would also work well. I was looking to keep the Morel theme going, and decided to splurge a bit with the Elates (got a great deal, too). Just look for something that is happy in Infinite Baffle type enclosures and fairly tolerant to damp environments and it should work well in our tin-can doors. The Elates are fairly shallow for what they are and the power they handle - that was also a plus...

My personal low-end needs preclude using strictly door-mounted subs as you really need solid and sealed doors to get any appreciable energy below 50Hz - especially once you consider the masking effect of road noise at highway speeds. As mentioned, I relegate my doors to high-output midbass duties, and the low-lows go to the sub stage in the cargo bay. The doors could produce frequencies below 60Hz, just not very efficiently or very loudly (will hit Xmax pretty quick in a tin can door in that frequency range!)

I never ripped out the headliner to sound-deaden the roof. It is on my list, but not likely to be tackled anytime soon (I hate the sound of large raindrops hitting the roof! :) ). The doors showed the best bang-for-buck in terms of deadening, followed by the larger rear side-panels and floor/trans tunnel. I didn't go overboard with sound deadening as this was already the quietest stock vehicle I've owned to date. Some people on here have gone through great lengths in deadening their T4R's - and I'm jealous of their efforts for sure! But satisfied with my results.

Hey [MENTION=10638]randyman[/MENTION],

I was checkin' you out in your '4 kilowatt' Audio build thread... and dude 'YOU'RE AWSOME'!!!
PS: ...Just in case anyone missed it... 2013 4Runner - SQL Install (Randyman) - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Cheers!

Lolz - Thanks Rigtec! I just know your four Alpine 15"s in that monster box would demolish my setup in raw SPL, but I'm rather happy with the size-to-output compromise. The box is rather small at just under 4cuft total (1.3cuft per sub). I was close to going ported (and likely another 9-12dB SPL for "free"!), but the size compromises didn't pan out once I measured her up. So, sealed I went with gobs of power :) I actually run out of sub headroom just as the W12GTi's reach Xmax @ fs :) A match made in heaven!

Back to work. Will check back later. Rock on! :cool:
 
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"...Lolz - Thanks Rigtec! I just know your four Alpine 15"s in that monster box would demolish my setup in raw SPL, but I'm rather happy with the size-to-output compromise..."

Well... um... :redface: I've removed two of the four 15's... seems I can't transport much more than a quart of milk or loaf of bread without involving the roof-rack and tie-downs lol!! I'm kidding... The four 15 project was an experiment to challenge the four 10 (sealed) box that I was using just prior. I knew the (4)15's 'would kill' in sheer dB's (spl's) which was true, but as far as musicality... there's NO CONTEST! "TEN'S ALL THE WAY!"

So now I'm just running 1 box/two 15's/both HD-750's. I don't know if you read the box build part of the sub thread, but I installed a Disconnect terminal on the outside of the box which allows me to configure the two 15's to work together from one amp, or to be separated; each input terminal block will be wired to one of the fifteen's, thus allowing the use of two amps to one box.

PS: Oh yeah... just read that you're a drummer! Small world, I've been playin' the bass guitar since The Seventies! :guitar2::rockon:

Rgds!
 

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