Talk me in/out of Spidertrax

I've had Spidertrax 1.25" spacers on my truck for almost 3 years now. They are on there purely for aesthetics. I don't have any issues in the front of the fender due to the high-clearance cut, but I did need to do a BMC and occasionally the tire will get up into the area of the pinch weld at the rear of the fender. I have lost the plastic trim piece that covers the pinch weld several times and ended up notching it so the tire clears. My tires are about 2" wider than yours tho.

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I've run spacers on many of my sporty cars and have always loved them. I've never had one complaint other than they can be a pain to remove, especially if you don't use some anti-seize on the mating surfaces. When it comes to cars, I drive HARD, and have never felt unsafe at all due to spacers. When installed correctly, as long as they aren't extremely wide, what's to fear?

That said, I come from European cars that use wheel bolts, not studs/nuts. So a spacer for me meant I sourced a longer wheel bolt.. and at that point you're basically just using longer bolts with lower offset wheels. Everyone who claims wheel-bearing issues is being overly-sensitive to the issue. Sure, more stress is added, but how much? We are all modding our vehicles here and "adding stress" all over. Spacers don't add any more stress than aftermarket, lower-offset wheels, add. But if neither of those mods are for you, that's perfectly cool.

Anyway, I've held off on spacers for the 4Runner because 1) I'm not keen on the bolt-on style, and 2) rocks hitting the side of my truck when off-road. To alleviate both of these concerns, and hopefully attain a nicer stance, my interests are in something custom.. so I wonder about y'alls thoughts?

I'm thinking something like a custom 1/2" plate spacer, and then fitting studs that are 1/2" longer than factory studs. The spacer would just slide onto the studs and sit there, and is only held on by the sandwich between the hub and wheel. Functionally, the biggest difference is that I'd then be using longer studs (which are essentially just bolts), so I think their physical properties should be considered since they may now stretch differently than the stock studs would, etc. Can anyone think of any reason this wouldn't work well, or any issues I might run into?

Cheers.
 
I've been running spacers for about 4 years. I have yet to encounter a tire shop or the dealer say anything about them nor refuse to work on it.

I do check them at every rotation (I rotate myself). The only time I found them to be an inconvenience was when I was replacing the rotors.
 
I've had Spidertrax 1.25" spacers on my truck for almost 3 years now. They are on there purely for aesthetics. I don't have any issues in the front of the fender due to the high-clearance cut, but I did need to do a BMC and occasionally the tire will get up into the area of the pinch weld at the rear of the fender. I have lost the plastic trim piece that covers the pinch weld several times and ended up notching it so the tire clears. My tires are about 2" wider than yours tho.

49165574396_0f059d2faa_b.jpg

One of the best looking 4Runners I've ever seen.
 
I've had Spidertrax 1.25" spacers on my truck for almost 3 years now. They are on there purely for aesthetics. I don't have any issues in the front of the fender due to the high-clearance cut, but I did need to do a BMC and occasionally the tire will get up into the area of the pinch weld at the rear of the fender. I have lost the plastic trim piece that covers the pinch weld several times and ended up notching it so the tire clears. My tires are about 2" wider than yours tho.

49165574396_0f059d2faa_b.jpg

dude!!! you have one of the nicest looking 4runners here!! beautiful.
 
Been running spacers for over a year. Originally had 275/70/17 tires when I put them on, and I was very happy to get them untucked from under the vehicle. It's for looks, but I like the effect.

Before spacers (275/70/17)

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After Spacers

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Spacers with 285s

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Does anyone know the width (outside of tread to outside of tread) on a stock 5th gen?

Just thought to measure and I’m at 69.5 in the front and 70” in the rear. Also put a tape on a stock Bridgestone and there is about 1.25 more tread width to them than I’m running.

Thinking out loud, between the narrower tires and 3” of lift, spacers might go a long way to bringing the COG back closer to stock. And yes, rims with more offset would do the same thing, but 7-hole Trail Edt wheels are best looking wheels, sooo...
 
I'll try to measure mine when I get home (as I mentioned earlier in this thread, similar setup to yours). I have the 1.25 inch spidertrax and I have JBA UCAs. I don't recall the measurement right after installing lift, UCAs, and alignment, but I think mine was slightly wider in the front (not noticeable, but measurable).

My experience with the spacers has been similar to others: no issues and I've never had a shop raise any question. I had them on two jeeps prior to this 4Runner, so I've probably got about 400K miles on spidertrax spacers with at least 10 tire changes in there. I suspect if you tried to rip a front wheel off somehow, other things would break before the wheel/spacer/hub connection does. Also as others have mentioned, it's important (and very straight-forward) to install these correctly.
 
I don't have any issues in the front of the fender due to the high-clearance cut, but I did need to do a BMC and occasionally the tire will get up into the area of the pinch weld at the rear of the fender. I have lost the plastic trim piece that covers the pinch weld several times
What caster do you have on front?
 
If installed correctly, there's nothing wrong with hub-centric spacers especially those from Spider Trax. Anytime you bring the tire away from, it's going to shorten the life of your wheel bearing and such, the same goes for wheels with a negative offset.

With that being said, if I didn't NEED spacers I would not run them just for looks, because even though they're safe, it's still another part that COULD fail.
 
I've had Spidertrax 1.25" spacers on my truck for almost 3 years now. They are on there purely for aesthetics. I don't have any issues in the front of the fender due to the high-clearance cut, but I did need to do a BMC and occasionally the tire will get up into the area of the pinch weld at the rear of the fender. I have lost the plastic trim piece that covers the pinch weld several times and ended up notching it so the tire clears. My tires are about 2" wider than yours tho.

49165574396_0f059d2faa_b.jpg

Are the front of your bumper and fenders cut upwards? Seems there is more tire showing than normal.
 
Adding spacers changes the geometry of the suspension; and adds double the hardware to mount each wheel. Nobody has yet mentioned what happens when you have to slam on the brakes and, or do an evasive maneuver with your spaced out wheels at highway speeds. Has anyone practiced this to gain experience? Also adding anti-seize to threads (as someone mentioned) changes the torque value - so what is the new correct value? Is your insurance going to cover you in the event of an accident with these modifications? If I was going to add spacers, I'd want to know the answers to these questions.
 
I've had the 1.25" since the end of Jan/early Feb. I wasn't going to order anything but Spidertrax just because of the rep and quality they do carry.
That said, I only have them on the front (had to get clearance from the new UCAs) and don't notice a difference in how the truck acts on the road or off road. Had no problems with the alignment afterwards either.
With the new effective wheel offset, I did start rubbing on the front mud flaps when turning on flat ground forward or backwards. With some cutting and a heat gun, it's just a VERY light touch now, not enough to warrant completely removing what's left of the flaps (yet, new wheels/34's coming later this year).
 
So far I've put on 500 miles to my Spidertrax since my last post. Also spent a day at a OHV and banged, smashed, and dropped off ledges HARD with my wheels on numerous rock obstacles. Took off my wheels to inspect the spacers, nothing moved. Witness marks makes checking easy.


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Adding spacers changes the geometry of the suspension; and adds double the hardware to mount each wheel. Nobody has yet mentioned what happens when you have to slam on the brakes and, or do an evasive maneuver with your spaced out wheels at highway speeds. Has anyone practiced this to gain experience? Also adding anti-seize to threads (as someone mentioned) changes the torque value - so what is the new correct value? Is your insurance going to cover you in the event of an accident with these modifications? If I was going to add spacers, I'd want to know the answers to these questions.

DO NOT ANTI-SEIZE THE THREADS.

The threads get RED locktite. You put a bit of anti-seize between the spacer and the wheel hub face to stop the spacers from corroding to the hub.

Nothing different happens when you slam on the brakes or swerve. You wheels are set an inch wider. That's it.
 
DO NOT ANTI-SEIZE THE THREADS.

The threads get RED locktite. You put a bit of anti-seize between the spacer and the wheel hub face to stop the spacers from corroding to the hub.

Nothing different happens when you slam on the brakes or swerve. You wheels are set an inch wider. That's it.

Torque values on the hub/etc. are all multiplied due to the 1.25'' additional width, so it's disingenuous to say "nothing different happens."
 
DO NOT ANTI-SEIZE THE THREADS.

The threads get RED locktite. You put a bit of anti-seize between the spacer and the wheel hub face to stop the spacers from corroding to the hub.

Nothing different happens when you slam on the brakes or swerve. You wheels are set an inch wider. That's it.


This.

Installed correctly there should be zero issues with anything. I just put some on my 4runner about 60 miles ago, today I am going to pull the wheels and check the torque. I still have stock size tires and have zero rubbing, but it looks like once I go up in size I will have a little trimming to do.

I also had a set on a previous jeep. I put thousands of miles on them with zero issues.

The biggest thing, like with any mod. Make sure you install it correctly and torque bolts properly and you should be all set
 

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