Talk me in/out of Spidertrax

Torque values on the hub/etc. are all multiplied due to the 1.25'' additional width, so it's disingenuous to say "nothing different happens."

There is no noticeable difference in driving feel for hard braking or swerving when comparing similar setups with and without wheel spacers.

I personally have 65,000+ miles on my spacers, with thousands of miles off road and hundreds of hard hits (including a concrete ditch culvert) and there have been *zero* issues. One guy made a reddit post about losing a wheel because torque specs weren't followed and everyone starts losing their mind that the things are unsafe. Lots of things are unsafe if you don't follow the proper use instructions.

People are making mountains out of mole hills.
 
Torque values on the hub/etc. are all multiplied due to the 1.25'' additional width, so it's disingenuous to say "nothing different happens."

Regardless of a change, it'd be symmetrical and moot as long as both sides were installed properly and the vehicle's alignment done within spec. Think about what happens with long travel kits utilizing stock pivot locations, there is a ton more leverage being applied, but again it's symmetrical since both sides have the same adjustment, and as long as the bushings and steering connectors are in good shape then nothing bad happens.

Immediately after installing 1.5" hub centric spacers, I went to Joshua Tree and then earlier this month did a 2K+ mile SoCal to UT camping/overlanding trip with off roading and everything felt solid, and when I checked spacers' torque after initial JT trip nothing had moved.
 
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Regardless of a change, it'd be symmetrical and moot as long as both sides were installed properly and the vehicle's alignment done within spec. Think about what happens with long travel kits utilizing stock pivot locations, there is a ton more leverage being applied, but again it's symmetrical since both sides have the same adjustment, and as long as the bushings and steering connectors are in good shape then nothing bad happens.

Immediately after installing 1.5" hub centric spacers, I went to Joshua Tree and then earlier this month did a 2K+ mile SoCal to UT camping/overlanding trip with off roading and everything felt solid, and when I checked spacers' torque after initial JT trip nothing had moved.

The fact that it's happening on both side doesn't change the fact that it's putting additional stress on the hubs/bearings. I'm glad you've had a good experience with them, but it's worth discussing the potential negatives.

There is no noticeable difference in driving feel for hard braking or swerving when comparing similar setups with and without wheel spacers.

I personally have 65,000+ miles on my spacers, with thousands of miles off road and hundreds of hard hits (including a concrete ditch culvert) and there have been *zero* issues. One guy made a reddit post about losing a wheel because torque specs weren't followed and everyone starts losing their mind that the things are unsafe. Lots of things are unsafe if you don't follow the proper use instructions.

People are making mountains out of mole hills.

I'm not saying your wheels are going to fall off, but it's disingenuous to say that the wheel bearings/etc. aren't stressed more due to the additional torque on them from the wheels moving 1.25''+ away from the hub. It's detrimental to those parts, but if you're OK with it then it's fine.
 
I have had spacers on my 350z, tundra, and my 4runner, and have never had a problem with them since i install them myself and torque them to spec by myself. I have done some really stupid stuff (drifted the 350z, tried to jump the tundra and 4runner over some railroad tracks) with all 3 of those vehicles, and the spacers held up fine.

I have also witnessed a friend of mine have 5 out of 6 of his lug nuts sheer off on the wheel side and not on the spacer side, mainly due to a grease monkey at a tire shop who insisted on using a impact gun on his wheels that stretched the wheel studs and they failed literally a block away from the tire shop.

Moral of the story, be cautious when letting other people work on your wheels and tires when you have spacers on. It's not so much that the spacers fail on their own, but usually due to human error or neglegience on whomever YOU PAID to work on your wheels and tires.

As for additional stress on my suspension components, while i have heard of it on the internet, its never happened to me. Not to say it doesn't happen, but it doesn't bother me enough to be a concern.
 
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The fact that it's happening on both side doesn't change the fact that it's putting additional stress on the hubs/bearings. I'm glad you've had a good experience with them, but it's worth discussing the potential negatives.



I'm not saying your wheels are going to fall off, but it's disingenuous to say that the wheel bearings/etc. aren't stressed more due to the additional torque on them from the wheels moving 1.25''+ away from the hub. It's detrimental to those parts, but if you're OK with it then it's fine.

I was referring specifically to someone's question about BRAKING AND SWERVING DRIVING FEEL. I was not providing an engineering dissertation on the additional stresses put on the hub. Just DRIVING FEEL. You have taken three words from a sentence and entirely ignored the context.

I can't tell if you are overly pedantic or just dense.
 
I was referring specifically to someone's question about BRAKING AND SWERVING DRIVING FEEL. I was not providing an engineering dissertation on the additional stresses put on the hub. Just DRIVING FEEL. You have taken three words from a sentence and entirely ignored the context.

I can't tell if you are overly pedantic or just dense.

I think I quoted the wrong person, so my bad.
 
The fact that it's happening on both side doesn't change the fact that it's putting additional stress on the hubs/bearings. I'm glad you've had a good experience with them, but it's worth discussing the potential negatives.

I'm not saying your wheels are going to fall off, but it's disingenuous to say that the wheel bearings/etc. aren't stressed more due to the additional torque on them from the wheels moving 1.25''+ away from the hub. It's detrimental to those parts, but if you're OK with it then it's fine.

Unless you know how much more "stress" is being applied, you cannot say it's detrimental or even significant enough to discuss. No one is arguing there is not an increase, but no one has any data to show on this topic other than our anecdotal testimonies from personal experience, which there being a lot of positive experiences gives at least something to go off of to make a decision.

So to keep the thread on topic, does anyone have any numbers to compare on the bearing failure rates (miles driven until bearing failure) of 5th Gen's that did NOT run spacers vs ones that did?
 
asides from the spidertrax, i had 3 other sets of spacers in hand. the selling point on the spidertrax was the quality studs they used.

other brands might be able to use ET style nuts to secure the spacer on, but they all had a very cheap looking finish on the wheel studs.
 
Right around 4.4-4.5 degrees. I asked the tech to give me as much as he possibly could.
Thanks, I see.
I've got the same caster angles but it's still not enough on the back when off-roading. It keeps hitting the plastic guard right next to the body mount (not mud flaps - those are gone long ago :)).
I was wondering if I can get more than 4.5? :rolleyes:
 
I’m still totally on the fence on adding these—at least I was until I impulse-bought sets of 1.25” G-2s this morning and put them on tonight. Just had an alignment done today anyway so time to form an opinion of my own.

Here’s the garage pic as she sits now.

Looking at it a little closer tho, moving the tire out seems to leave the LCA and rear axel shock bracket slightly more exposed being further off the wheel/tire. (Hadn’t thought about that till just now). But then come to think of it, I’m overdue for a real skid anyway, so what’s a couple more pieces of armor? (That’s the spirit, right? Lol)

Anyway, I just took it out for a cruise tonight and first impression is it handles just fine. Can’t tell if I’m feeling or imagining a wider turn radius yet. Oh well, away I go just the same.

Edited to say: Dang the picture reorientation
 

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Thanks, I see.
I've got the same caster angles but it's still not enough on the back when off-roading. It keeps hitting the plastic guard right next to the body mount (not mud flaps - those are gone long ago :)).
I was wondering if I can get more than 4.5? :rolleyes:
Take that plastic guard and notch it on the inside where the tire rubs. The plastic guard is just hiding the pinch weld - it isn't structural or anything. I did it to the passenger side, but I still need to do it to the driver side. I'll probably hammer on the pinch weld a bit while I'm in there, just for a little added space.
 
I've run spacers on many of my sporty cars and have always loved them. I've never had one complaint other than they can be a pain to remove, especially if you don't use some anti-seize on the mating surfaces. When it comes to cars, I drive HARD, and have never felt unsafe at all due to spacers. When installed correctly, as long as they aren't extremely wide, what's to fear?

That said, I come from European cars that use wheel bolts, not studs/nuts. So a spacer for me meant I sourced a longer wheel bolt.. and at that point you're basically just using longer bolts with lower offset wheels. Everyone who claims wheel-bearing issues is being overly-sensitive to the issue. Sure, more stress is added, but how much? We are all modding our vehicles here and "adding stress" all over. Spacers don't add any more stress than aftermarket, lower-offset wheels, add. But if neither of those mods are for you, that's perfectly cool.

Anyway, I've held off on spacers for the 4Runner because 1) I'm not keen on the bolt-on style, and 2) rocks hitting the side of my truck when off-road. To alleviate both of these concerns, and hopefully attain a nicer stance, my interests are in something custom.. so I wonder about y'alls thoughts?

I'm thinking something like a custom 1/2" plate spacer, and then fitting studs that are 1/2" longer than factory studs. The spacer would just slide onto the studs and sit there, and is only held on by the sandwich between the hub and wheel. Functionally, the biggest difference is that I'd then be using longer studs (which are essentially just bolts), so I think their physical properties should be considered since they may now stretch differently than the stock studs would, etc. Can anyone think of any reason this wouldn't work well, or any issues I might run into?

Cheers.
Hello kouki_monster,
I have a 2015 Tacoma DCSB TRD O/R with 2016 4Runner Trail wheels (off of my wifes 4Runner, she has a newer set with the black accents). Those wheels sit 15mm further out than the stock Tacoma wheels so they're pretty much flush with my fender flares. After reading the post below:
How to properly do slip-on wheel spacers | Tacoma World

Yesterday ordered these. (4) 15mm slip-on spacers from BORA:
Custom Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings for your car! | Motorsport Tech

With the Trail wheel offset & these spacers my tires/wheels will "stick out" the same as if I were using factory Tacoma wheels with a 1.25" bolt-on wheel spacer. I will also need to buy longer wheel studs. There's ARP and a few others out there. I would probably go with these:
WheelAdapter.com

I wanted to go with 1.25" bolt on spacers but with my wheels already sitting out 15mm more than stock it will be too close to the mud flaps & cab mount. I don't know if I want to get rid of my mud flaps so I may end up using the 15mm slip-on spacers.

The reason I am not sure what to go with is because I may go up to a 285/70r17. In my case I can't go with a tire that's 2 sizes bigger than OE & run a wheel spacer because it may rub.

I just wanted you to see the slip-on options because there's not much out there compared to bolt-on spacers.
 
I had a set installed for about a month. Loved the look but eventually gave up because all the rubbing. I have a 3” Toytec running 285’s with +4 on my SPC UCA’s. After messing with the alignment trying to push my wheels forward to reduce mud flap rubbing I was getting bad bumper rubbing. I removed the mud flaps and trimmed the bumper and I would still get a fair amount of rubbing full lock. I wound up taking them off after a month as I wasn’t willing to do a BMC.
They are just sitting in a shelf now collecting dust.
I miss the look not the hassle.
 
I just figured I’d get whatever backspacing I’d need from a new set of wheels, or not at all and just max out the stock wheels with 275/55R20. Some tire shops (Discount Tire comes to mind) won’t mount or rotate tires if you have spacers.

Ironically, Discount Tire will be flexible with rim width and mount those to your 7” stock rims despite the tire spec showing the lower threshold at 7.5”!


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