01-02 Lower Ball Joint Recall

[mtbtim]

Yes, you don't need any crazy tools, not even a puller. You need a big hammer, sockets (14 mm, 19 mm, 24 mm, and 36 mm) jack stands, small flat blade screwdriver, breaker bar, dikes, and needle nose pliers. I like the hammer method myself. I think it's quicker. How I did mine last week:
1) put front of vehicle on jackstands
2) take off wheel
3) undo 4x 14 mm bolts connecting lower control arm to lower ball joint (should replace these)
4) pull cotter pin out of ball joint to outer tie rod end, use 19 mm socket to loosen the castle nut. Leave castle nut loose to protect threads.
5) pull cotter pin out of main ball joint stud, underneath the ball joint pointing down. Undo castle nut with 24 mm socket. Can leave castle nut loose, but still on the stud.
6) remove cover off hub to gain access to CV spindle using small screwdriver. Undo the 36 mm nut holding the axle into the hub. You can place a screwdriver in the brake rotor fins to prevent the rotor from turning
7) big hammer time - hit where the outer tie rod end joint goes through the lower ball joint. Not the stud itself. A few hits and it will come loose. PB blaster helps.
8) lift up the knuckle, at the same time pull the outer CV spindle out of the hub.
9) move the knuckle forward, exposing the lower ball joint
10) hit where the ball joint stud goes through the lower control arm. This will take a few hard hits.
11) remove lower ball joint.
12) installation is reverse of removal. Torque all bolts to spec. Use new cotter pins.

Bro, why are you removing the CV spindle to remove the LBJ? Are you sure you don't have your repairs mixed up? When I replaced my LBJ's, there was no need to mess with the CV axle at all. If this is what's required to use the hammer technique, using pullers is way less work.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Bro, why are you removing the CV spindle to remove the LBJ? Are you sure you don't have your repairs mixed up? When I replaced my LBJ's, there was no need to mess with the CV axle at all. If this is what's required to use the hammer technique, using pullers is way less work.

Yep, that's what I did to get the knuckle out of the way enough to get the LBJ out of the LCA. No, I didn't have to remove the CV axle spindle to get a hammer in there.

It takes less than 5 minutes to get the CV spindle out.

Maybe you don't have to take the CV spindle out, but it's ok.

EDIT: Watched your video, I now know why I had to remove the CV spindle. Because I have ES bushings in the UCA, that allow movement within the bushing itself. The LCA stayed put, while the UCA allowed the knuckle to come down onto the ball joint. With the spindle in the hub, it was difficult to move the knuckle out of the way to tell when the LBJ was loose from the LCA, or hold it out of the way to get the LBJ out of the LCA.

 

[mtbtim]

Yep, that's what I did to get the knuckle out of the way enough to get the LBJ out of the LCA. No, I didn't have to remove the CV axle spindle to get a hammer in there.

It takes less than 5 minutes to get the CV spindle out.

Maybe you don't have to take the CV spindle out, but it's ok.

EDIT: Watched your video, I now know why I had to remove the CV spindle. Because I have ES bushings in the UCA, that allow movement within the bushing itself. The LCA stayed put, while the UCA allowed the knuckle to come down onto the ball joint. With the spindle in the hub, it was difficult to move the knuckle out of the way to tell when the LBJ was loose from the LCA, or hold it out of the way to get the LBJ out of the LCA.

Got it. Now I understand. I'd still rather use a puller instead of hammering on my suspension components but I know those parts are beefy and can handle it. I love buying new tools so I saw this as an excuse to own some pullers. And, I've gotten plenty of use out of them so it was a solid purchase in my book.

 

[Mark_BC]

I ordered the fork pullers mtbtim had on his video, from Amazon less than $100. I'm also about to order some LBJ's and bolts from Camelback Toyota. Just wondering where to get the cotter pins and what size?

 

[TheDurk]

I ordered the fork pullers mtbtim had on his video, from Amazon less than $100. I'm also about to order some LBJ's and bolts from Camelback Toyota. Just wondering where to get the cotter pins and what size?

The LCA castle nut and cotter pin are included with the OEM LBJ (but not the bolts.) You only have to worry about the OTRE cotter pin, unless you are also replacing that. I have a variety pack I got from Tractor Supply a while back that covered it. About all I can suggest is the dealer:

http://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oe-toyota/9538103225. Include it in your order from CamelBack, why not?

Or, take a set of SAE drills, find the largest that will fit through the hole, and head to ACE hardware and buy that size or the next smaller if they don't have that one.

The LCA cotter pin is larger and is:http://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oe-toyota/9025203015 but as I said, it's included. I just did mine with LBJs from CamelBack.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Got it. Now I understand. I'd still rather use a puller instead of hammering on my suspension components but I know those parts are beefy and can handle it. I love buying new tools so I saw this as an excuse to own some pullers. And, I've gotten plenty of use out of them so it was a solid purchase in my book.

Same with me, I love buying new tools. I've just always done ball joints with a hammer so I'm used to it. I did use a puller on a LBJ on my bro's 98 4Runner and didn't like it, took a lot of force to get it to pop loose. Rather just use a big hammer. I use my hammer for anything solid and rusted I need to get out like rotors, drums, tie rods, etc.

 

[OnTheEllipse]

You should be able to rent the needed pullers at a local auto parts store. You could use the technique of hammering on the lower control arm and knuckle of the ball joint, but using the pullers is a much better technique in my opinion.

You can do this yourself no problem. I'm guessing there's a chance you might not own a torque wrench but maybe you could borrow one from a friend or family member.

Here's a video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made of replacing the LBJ's on my rig.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I appreciate it! These videos are so helpful. I actually do own a pair of torque wrenches. Now to figure out my parts list for this job*

* I wish my local Annapolis Toyota dealership were better. I can't even get an email or call back from them.

 

[Kyngfish]

Did this yesterday

Did this and the tie rod ends yesterday. Recommend getting the pullers from Autozone, really easy.

The hardest part is torquing the smaller bolts to spec - my recommendation is to try to get a 19mm for a 1/2 inch socket so you can use a longer torque wrench.

The puller I used for both the tie rod end and ball joints looked like this: http://www.alatperkakas.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Two-Jaw-Outer-Tie-Rod-Remover.jpg

 

[OnTheEllipse]

Did this and the tie rod ends yesterday. Recommend getting the pullers from Autozone, really easy.

The hardest part is torquing the smaller bolts to spec - my recommendation is to try to get a 19mm for a 1/2 inch socket so you can use a longer torque wrench.

The puller I used for both the tie rod end and ball joints looked like this: http://www.alatperkakas.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Two-Jaw-Outer-Tie-Rod-Remover.jpg

great, thanks. I'm actually looking at the tie rod end tutorials right now. seems like you might as well replace those while you're in there. Do you have a link or part number? hoping to put an order in to Camelback Toyota (recommended in that video) today.

edit: whoops...found this

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...nner-tie-rods-ball-joints-wheel-bearings.html

 

[Tyler James Inc]

So, does this recall no longer exist? It's not in the service history, but it says "no recalls" on the Toyota Owners site, and the dealer I called said the same.

 

[ltsr]

So, does this recall no longer exist? It's not in the service history, but it says "no recalls" on the Toyota Owners site, and the dealer I called said the same.

I was in the same situation with my 2001 SR5. I just ponied up for OEM ball joints and went on my way.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

@ltsr
Yeah, I'll do that if the recall deal is no longer "active"- or whatever. I just wanted someone who knows how the system works to tell me I'm SOL before I bought them.

The recall will forever be in effect for those that have not collected on it. Go to the dealership and have them pull your vin for the recall. If it doesn't show up then you will get some free lbj's :thumb3:

Or nah?

 

[ltsr]

@ltsr
Yeah, I'll do that if the recall deal is no longer "active"- or whatever. I just wanted someone who knows how the system works to tell me I'm SOL before I bought them.

From what I understand it's still active but your VIN has to show up on the search. I also phoned in and was denied. Granted I was looking at the LBJ failure thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/84794-ball-joint-failure-my-turn.html) and got it in my head mine would fail the next time I drove it. When I ordered the LBJs from Camelbak it was only $89 each with free shipping.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Yeah man, I'm not willing to risk one of them failing. I think I'll replace them before it leaves the driveway.

 

[96RedRunner]

The safety recall is still active if your vehicle is within the VIN range of recall.
I called the national Toyota customer service center after talking to local dealer both said same thing.

 

[linkedtamiya]

posting

Uniball

 

[jgue467]

No dust shields on them uniballers?