02 Sensor Check Engine Lights

dta1984

New member
So...my 03 V6 threw a P0156 back in March. I replaced the driver side downstream 02 sensor with a Denso and the code went away. Well..it came back last week. Same code.. I returned the 02 sensor for a warranty exchange, cleared the code, and it stayed off for a day or so. Now, I have a P0136 code for the opposite side 02 sensor.

Is it really likely that 02 sensor is now bad too? Is there something else related causing this? :help:

Edit; also note that my VSC and Traction control lights are on as well
 
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So...my 03 V6 threw a P0156 back in March. I replaced the driver side downstream 02 sensor with a Denso and the code went away. Well..it came back last week. Same code.. I returned the 02 sensor for a warranty exchange, cleared the code, and it stayed off for a day or so. Now, I have a P0136 code for the opposite side 02 sensor.

Is it really likely that 02 sensor is now bad too? Is there something else related causing this? :help:

Edit; also note that my VSC and Traction control lights are on as well
I work auto parts retail. Trust me, when one side of anythinh goes, the other is right behind it.
 
Has anyone really noticed any change in gas mileage,or how their 4runner performs when these O2 sensor codes show up?

On another type auto i got the check engine light, Auto Zone read code said it was an O2 sensor.
I just said Ok thanks for the information and left without buying a new one.
It's been over six years light is still on,and no drop in gas mileage or has the engine performed poorly.:dance:
 
Has anyone really noticed any change in gas mileage,or how their 4runner performs when these O2 sensor codes show up?

On another type auto i got the check engine light, Auto Zone read code said it was an O2 sensor.
I just said Ok thanks for the information and left without buying a new one.
It's been over six years light is still on,and no drop in gas mileage or has the engine performed poorly.:dance:

Good point, I haven't noticed a decrease in gas mileage, and she seems to run normally.
 
I'm having this same problem right now. 2004 V8 4wd

Had a check engine light and local shop said it was bank one sensor one o2 sensor. Replaced it then a day later bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor code. A day later bank 1 sensor 1 was back on. Took sensor 2 back to the auto parts store thinking something is wrong.

Took it to the local toyota dealer and they said I need bank 2 sensor 2 and I tried to explain it but they insisted that was the problem so $400 later I picked it up. The CEL was on before I got home. They've had it a week now and say the ECM is bad and it'll be 1800 to fix it. It runs great.

Does this sound right?
 
I'm having this same problem right now. 2004 V8 4wd

Had a check engine light and local shop said it was bank one sensor one o2 sensor. Replaced it then a day later bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor code. A day later bank 1 sensor 1 was back on. Took sensor 2 back to the auto parts store thinking something is wrong.

Took it to the local toyota dealer and they said I need bank 2 sensor 2 and I tried to explain it but they insisted that was the problem so $400 later I picked it up. The CEL was on before I got home. They've had it a week now and say the ECM is bad and it'll be 1800 to fix it. It runs great.

Does this sound right?

Definitely sounds like a similar issue. The ECM being bad seems overkill though...
 
I'm having this same problem right now. 2004 V8 4wd

Had a check engine light and local shop said it was bank one sensor one o2 sensor. Replaced it then a day later bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor code. A day later bank 1 sensor 1 was back on. Took sensor 2 back to the auto parts store thinking something is wrong.

Took it to the local toyota dealer and they said I need bank 2 sensor 2 and I tried to explain it but they insisted that was the problem so $400 later I picked it up. The CEL was on before I got home. They've had it a week now and say the ECM is bad and it'll be 1800 to fix it. It runs great.

Does this sound right?
To me it sounds as if your Stealer Dealer is really feeling you are a sweet fish. And they intend on frying you for their dinner.
You already are out $400 dollars, and now they want another $1800 dollars. That should give you some sign that they are a bunch of robbing B@#$$^%#@ what more do i need to write?:guitar3:
 
I've never seen a vehicle with a bad ecm that ran good. Usually they won't run at all or have lots of problems. My 4runner run great.

I feel like they're full of it also but I'm not sure what else to try. Just ride with the CEL on?
 
ECM information from the counterman URL.

Engine Control Module: The Brains Of The Operation -

The Engine Control Module (also called the Powertrain Control Module or PCM) is the brains of the engine management system. It controls the fuel mixture, ignition timing, variable cam timing and emissions control. It constantly monitors emissions performance via its OBD (Onboard Diagnostics) programming, and it oversees the operation of the fuel pump, engine cooling fan and charging system. It also interacts with the transmission controller (if separate), ABS/traction/stability control system, body control module, climate control module and anti-theft system. In short, the engine control module performs a wide variety of functions that are necessary to operate a vehicle.

The electronic components inside an engine control modules are fairly robust, but sometimes things can and do go wrong. Shorts in sensor circuits may overload and damage the module. Problems with the module’s power supply (too much voltage or not enough) or ground connections can cause it to misbehave. Bad inputs from sensors or other modules may also cause it to malfunction. Corrosion, excessive heat and vibration also can cause harm to the module.

When an engine control module fails, it may or may not set any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). This can make troubleshooting difficult and often results in misdiagnosis of a bad computer. Often the real problem is outside the computer such as a bad sensor, wiring fault, power relay or voltage issue. Complete module failures are rare, but failures within the module’s various subsystems and memory are more common. A shorted fuel injector, for example, may overload and burn out the injector driver circuit within the engine control module. If the underlying cause is not found and fixed, it can cause the replacement computer to fail, too.

If a bad computer has been accurately diagnosed, replacing it usually requires several steps. First, the replacement computer must be programmed for the specific vehicle into which it will be installed (year, make, model, engine, VIN, trans, etc.). In some cases, the supplier of a remanufactured module can perform this step by providing them with the necessary information. Or, the module can be programmed by the technician using a J2534 pass-through device and scan tool. Programming requires professional expertise and special equipment, and is NOT something a DIYer can do himself.

On older GM and Ford computers (1995 and pre-OBD II), the programming is on a calibration PROM (Program Read Only Memory) chip. The chip has to be removed from the old computer and installed in the replacement computer.

On many vehicles, it is also necessary to perform a relearn procedure after the computer has been installed so the anti-theft system will recognize the new computer — otherwise the engine may not start.
 
I've never seen a vehicle with a bad ecm that ran good. Usually they won't run at all or have lots of problems. My 4runner run great.

I feel like they're full of it also but I'm not sure what else to try. Just ride with the CEL on?

If it is running great and the gas mileage as not dropped, i would just keep driving it.
 
I guess that's what I'm gonna do. No way I'm gonna spend 1800 at the dealer and they won't guarantee that will fix it.

I am gonna take it by the local muffler shop and have the cats checked just to rule one more thing out.
 
If it is running great and the gas mileage as not dropped, i would just keep driving it.

Ya, i'm probably going to just leave it alone. It's just one of those things that will bug me lol. One think I will do is inspect the connection and wiring. The link below says corrosion in the connector could be a cause.

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0136 Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)

This link mentions exhaust and intake leaks as well;
http://www.engine-codes.com/p0136.html
 
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I guess that's what I'm gonna do. No way I'm gonna spend 1800 at the dealer and they won't guarantee that will fix it.

I am gonna take it by the local muffler shop and have the cats checked just to rule one more thing out.

That is a good idea nothing wrong with letting them do a check.
 
Ya, i'm probably going to just leave it alone. It's just one of those things that will bug me lol. One think I will do is inspect the connection and wiring. The link below says corrosion in the connector could be a cause.

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0136 Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)

This leak mentions exhaust and intake leaks as well;
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2 OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

That also is a good idea,it will give you a chance to rule out a wiring problem.
 
Alright so a little update.....I ended up replacing the passenger side downstream 02 sensor today. Cleared the code, disconnected the battery too, and 2 new codes immediately came back on ....P0031 and P0051 which appear to be the upstream sensors.

To recap; original code was P0156....replaced that sensor and then got P0136 code. Now both upstream sensors.

Any ideas? Really stumped on this one. I'm not sure what else to try. I may have a slight exhaust manifold exhaust leak, but thats about it.
 
Alright I figured it out!

Credit to UNSNUB on tundra solutions . I came across the following statement from him "The air fuel sensors have thier own fuse located in the same box you pulled off. It is a 15 amp fuse called AF Heater and also there is a relay called AF Heater Relay."

Then it hit me..... I was on a roadtrip and got the flashing AC light. I ended up swapping the mag clutch relay with......the af heater relay to get the AC working. :doh:

I swapped the relays and now the codes are gone. I'll update if they come back.
 
Welp, that didn't fix it. The light came back on after about 100 miles. This time for the original code, driver side downstream. My next step is to inspect all of the wiring again real good. Really stumped on this one.
 
Torque settings for sensor

I've been looking for my Haynes manual, but I can't find it. Does anyone happen to have the torque settings for the O2 sensors on the 2004 V8?
 
I've had the same problem with O2 sensors on my '04 V6 and I'll share with you what I found.

When the O2 sensor codes started appearing I went to my parts store and ordered Denso brand replacement sensors. Several weeks later the codes reappeared. I replaced them and a few weeks later the same thing. I then found a Toyota Tech. Service Bulletin that stated aftermarket O2 sensors have a different sensing range and will throw a CEL code. The TSB said to use only Toyota parts to correct this. About a week ago I ordered and installed factory parts and the CEL is off, for now. I also went to the dealership for the parts and install as I want them to be responsible should this be become reoccurring. It also cost a crap load of $$$ for the dealer to do the job but I was frustrated with dealing with this.

So, I would recommend first finding the TSB on this website and review it then contact different dealerships for the O2 sensors as they all seem to charge a different price.

Chris
 
The oldest scam the Engineers working for the Auto Mfg industries ever came up with, the engine trouble code telling people they need to replace O2 Sensors.
And it seems to be working as good today as it did years ago, as i keep reading people are still spending their money chasing them codes that just keep coming back.:painkiller:
 

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