'06 O2 Sensor Code?

[cnl390]

I took my '06 T4R to a shop I have been dealing with for years for an oil change. This shop has an excellent reputation, certified mechanics & all of the latest diagnostic equipment. My check engine light vsc trac & trac off lights were coming on intermitantly so I had them check it as well.
They came back and told me that there was an error code of P0137 and the #1 O2 sensor in bank 1 needed replacing. I decided I would change it myself but when I researched the code I found that P0137 is #2 on bank 1. Now I am confused as to which one to change.
Thanks

 

[stevec5000]

I took my '06 T4R to a shop I have been dealing with for years for an oil change. This shop has an excellent reputation, certified mechanics & all of the latest diagnostic equipment. My check engine light vsc trac & trac off lights were coming on intermitantly so I had them check it as well.
They came back and told me that there was an error code of P0137 and the #1 O2 sensor in bank 1 needed replacing. I decided I would change it myself but when I researched the code I found that P0137 is #2 on bank 1. Now I am confused as to which one to change.
Thanks

I wouldn't buy any new ones to put in until I checked the old ones first since a number of things can cause those codes to appear. They are easy to check but if one is bad the matching one on the other side probably needs to be changed also or it will soon. BTW, they are VERY expensive at retail but you can usually find them cheaper on ebay since the replacement doesn't have to be exactly the same as the old one.

 

[cnl390]

I wouldn't buy any new ones to put in until I checked the old ones first since a number of things can cause those codes to appear. They are easy to check but if one is bad the matching one on the other side probably needs to be changed also or it will soon. BTW, they are VERY expensive at retail but you can usually find them cheaper on ebay since the replacement doesn't have to be exactly the same as the old one.

Thanks, the shop wanted $400 to replace and it looks pretty simple to me. How do I go about checking if they are good or not?

 

[BOSMECH]

I have had the same thing happen to me, then the other side went out. I did all 4 and got them on amazon.com also get Denzo's.
It is easy to do also.
Then do a zero point calibration after your done.

 

[cabowally]

BTW, they are VERY expensive at retail but you can usually find them cheaper on ebay since the replacement doesn't have to be exactly the same as the old one.

Beg to differ. Toyota forums are full of people having problems by not replacing the o2 sensors with OEM Denso's. Rockauto approx $100 each upstream and $58 each downstream.

There is also a heavily reoccurring theme that when replacing sensors you should replace both sides at the same time, i.e. if bank 1 #1 is bad replace #2 as well. I don't know if this is really necessary but a LOT of threads say you should.







.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Beg to differ. Toyota forums are full of people having problems by not replacing the o2 sensors with OEM Denso's. Rockauto approx $100 each upstream and $58 each downstream.

There is also a heavily reoccurring theme that when replacing sensors you should replace both sides at the same time, i.e. if bank 1 #1 is bad replace #2 as well. I don't know if this is really necessary but a LOT of threads say you should.

I don't know what it is with Toyotas, but they can be real finicky on parts... I've seen people put OEM Bosch plugs and wires in a Camry and it sets misfire codes, swapped them for Denso plugs and/or wires and it fixed it. Both sets brand new parts, no defects.

As for replacing the O2 sensors in pairs? Its not really stated anywhere that you should do it that way, but honestly? If you're gonna spend the money/time to get down there and get one unit off that's going bad, why not spend a little extra for the piece of mind? I personally am just going to replace all the O2's and AFR's in one batch when one or two start failing for simplicity's sake.

 

[ridefast]

^^^ :frog:
Treat your truck right and it will treat you right!!!

 

[stevec5000]

Thanks, the shop wanted $400 to replace and it looks pretty simple to me. How do I go about checking if they are good or not?

They are simple to check, use a ScanGauge to check the outputs or connect a DVM to the signal wire and read the voltage which should be in a range of 0-1 volt and about 0.5 volt for the front ones when they are warmed up with the correct mixture and working properly. The rear ones will read lower if the catalytic converter is working to reduce emissions. You would have to switch the rear ones to the front to test them properly to see if you get 0.5 volts. They have to warm up to about 700 degrees in order to work so they have a 12 volt heater coil to help them warm up faster. You can check the coil resistance with an ohmmeter and it will generally read about 3-4 ohms depending on the model. You can also test them off the car using gas from a propane torch instead of exhaust. Google it to get the directions for that.