$1,200.00 break fix on an o4 with less than 50,000 miles?

[p nut]

Yours is a 1 off and or a production line mistake. My 04 came with 17" wheels and has 12.6" rotors. Have you done the brakes yet? 12.6" and 13.3" use different brake pads. You can call the dealership parts Dept with your Vin and they can tell you what size rotors are on it.

I would also think the rotors would "look" bigger behind the 16" wheel since the wheel is 1" smaller. It would give the allusion of a larger rotor. As far as the measurement goes it would be hard to accurately measure the rotors while still attached to the vehicle.

The norm is as I list in the previous post.

Here's something I found. This is per top4runners.com.

The Toyota spec sheet for 03-04 lists 12.6" rotors for 16/17" wheels and 13.3" for Sport Editions. However, for 05+, it just lists it as 12.6" for 16" wheels and 13.3" for 17" wheels. No SE specific size is listed.

Here are the pdf files.

http://www.top4runners.com/ja/runhist/4thgen/2004specs.pdf

http://www.top4runners.com/ja/runhist/4thgen/2005specs.pdf

 

[pmrowczynski]

Wow...

A couple of questions come to mind:

1. How often does this or can this happen? If people were replacing calipers frequently, then I would think we'd have a sticky in the maintenance section and more gripes (aka driveline clunk)
2. Driving in salt/sand shouldn't have an impact on the caliper directly, unless you're literally soaking it on a daily basis and never washing it, no?


Seems to me like the dealer is inflating costs as the economy is bad for dealers and maintenance is the remaining cash cow.

 

[BROOKLYN]

all 4th gen 4runner can use the modified calipers with the 16 inch disc, the calipers are are big problem on these 4runners i replaced
mine and all the dealers say they replace a pair at least 5 times a week

 

[NCSCOTT]

Here's something I found. This is per top4runners.com.

The Toyota spec sheet for 03-04 lists 12.6" rotors for 16/17" wheels and 13.3" for Sport Editions. However, for 05+, it just lists it as 12.6" for 16" wheels and 13.3" for 17" wheels. No SE specific size is listed.

Here are the pdf files.

http://www.top4runners.com/ja/runhist/4thgen/2004specs.pdf

http://www.top4runners.com/ja/runhist/4thgen/2005specs.pdf

You are correct. The 07/08/09 Spec sheets list 13.3 inches (sport only)

http://www.top4runners.com/ja/runhist/4thgen/2007specs.pdf

That has been the case since the 4th gen came out. If you indeed have 13.3 on anything but a SE or Urban it is just a assembly line mistake, which this is Toyota we are talking about and that would be few and far between.

Thanks Top4Runners for the info.

 

[nc211]

Interesting..... My 05' SR5 has 17' wheels, but the 16' rotors. I had my vin # run through to double check when placing the order. It was confusing to figure out, to say the least.

 

[nc211]

all 4th gen 4runner can use the modified calipers with the 16 inch disc, the calipers are are big problem on these 4runners i replaced
mine and all the dealers say they replace a pair at least 5 times a week

I don't understand why the caliper itself would need to be replaced, unless it's a modification for another related part to fit. I mean, they're basically stationary blocks of heavy steel that push the pistons with brake fluid. But I could be wrong. I've just never heard of someone needing to replace an actual broken caliper before. The pistons and seals, yeah, but not the caliper. But, I haven't learned anything today, so maybe this is it!

 

[T?@\7]

this happened to mine at 62,xxx miles and wass $800 at Daytona Toyota.... they actually cut $100+ off the initial price bc it was soo muchmore than i expected...
Two nice new shiny calipers up front now, looking good and stopping better

 

[EH007]

Guys,

In case you haven't heard, the 4th gen 4Runner (especially the earlier ones) have a caliper design that is known to seize the pistons. This is fairly well documented and Toyota offers a newer design that supposedly eliminates the problem.

That being said, I'd advise against trying to repair a caliper with a frozen piston because it is likely to reoccur. Instead, replace the calipers with the upgraded part number and save yourself the aggravation of dealing with a seized piston in the future.

I don't have the upgraded part number, but I know that it can be found with a little time & effort.

 

[EH007]

For your info: I just replaced my front rotors, front pads, rear pads, with geniune Toyota OEM parts "from parts.com", for a whopping $210.

I just took a look at that parts.com website. The prices seem reasonable, but how can you tell if you're getting Toyota OEM parts? They don't list part manufacturers anywhere that I could find. I find it hard to believe that they can sell original Toyota parts at such a big discount. At least other big sites like RockAuto.com tell you the manufacturer of their parts.

 

[NCSCOTT]

Guys,

In case you haven't heard, the 4th gen 4Runner (especially the earlier ones) have a caliper design that is known to seize the pistons. This is fairly well documented and Toyota offers a newer design that supposedly eliminates the problem.

I believe from my research on this site and the locations of the people posting the problems it is much more of a problem with 4Runners in the rust belt (nothern states) and those living in the coastal areas of the US. My 04 has virtually no rust on the calipers after almost 92k miles. Granted it has been to the beach a few times in NC, but since I live about 2-3 hrs inland it is not an issue for me. Most of our weather comes from the west here in raleigh, baring a rare tropical storm/huricane. When I did the brakes around 70K all the pistons went in with ease.

If they were to be seized at the next change say at 130k-140k and maybe 7-9 years old. I would chalk it up to normal wear and not an on going issue.

 

[EH007]

I believe from my research on this site and the locations of the people posting the problems it is much more of a problem with 4Runners in the rust belt (nothern states) and those living in the coastal areas of the US. My 04 has virtually no rust on the calipers after almost 92k miles. Granted it has been to the beach a few times in NC, but since I live about 2-3 hrs inland it is not an issue for me. Most of our weather comes from the west here in raleigh, baring a rare tropical storm/huricane. When I did the brakes around 70K all the pistons went in with ease.

If they were to be seized at the next change say at 130k-140k and maybe 7-9 years old. I would chalk it up to normal wear and not an on going issue.

Maybe so, but my point is that it should be considered a design flaw whether it is only a problem in the rust belt or not. Think about it--there's an incredible amount of people in this country who deal with road salt every winter. If it becomes a problem for them, then it should be considered a design flaw and obviously Toyota addressed the problem by changing the design of the calipers. You're lucky that you don't have to deal with road salt and that your calipers don't get rusty. If everyone was in that situation, Toyota wouldn't have to deal with the problem.

I've never owned a vehicle with calipers that seized and I've lived in the northeast my entire life. I'm just glad that Toyota has an upgraded part available, otherwise I'd be going aftermarket and I'm not too keen on most aftermarket brake components. That's one area where I prefer to stay OEM, if possible.

 

[NCSCOTT]

Maybe so, but my point is that it should be considered a design flaw whether it is only a problem in the rust belt or not. Think about it--there's an incredible amount of people in this country who deal with road salt every winter. If it becomes a problem for them, then it should be considered a design flaw and obviously Toyota addressed the problem by changing the design of the calipers. You're lucky that you don't have to deal with road salt and that your calipers don't get rusty. If everyone was in that situation, Toyota wouldn't have to deal with the problem.

I've never owned a vehicle with calipers that seized and I've lived in the northeast my entire life. I'm just glad that Toyota has an upgraded part available, otherwise I'd be going aftermarket and I'm not too keen on most aftermarket brake components. That's one area where I prefer to stay OEM, if possible.

I guess I should add at the end of my post "in my case". I also lived in the north (MI) for 15 years, 11 of those driving and I never had a caliper seize on me either. I never owned any Toyotas up there. In either case I would be upset if mine seized at 50k miles. :bigok:

 

[Kmvreter]

... then it should be considered a design flaw and obviously Toyota addressed the problem by changing the design of the calipers...

I agree.
What did they specifically change in the design? When I changed mine with a NAPA part it had extra spring retainers to hold the dust boots (see my pics in the post I bumped earlier.)

 

[nc211]

I just took a look at that parts.com website. The prices seem reasonable, but how can you tell if you're getting Toyota OEM parts? They don't list part manufacturers anywhere that I could find. I find it hard to believe that they can sell original Toyota parts at such a big discount. At least other big sites like RockAuto.com tell you the manufacturer of their parts.

Mine have an invoice from Power Toyota in Tempe Arizona. They're genuine OEM parts, stamped on the box, and on the parts. Many dealerships around the country will sell their parts online at discount prices through "front" websites. Like lexuspartsonline.com, which is Champion Toyota in Texas "I ordered lots of parts from them for my older LS400". There are others around too, but I've found parts.com to be a great conduit for dealers to use to get their parts sold online. Plus, they seem to have the lowest prices of the other sites I know of, by $15 or so. You can always call them too and ask as well. But I've had really good luck with them. Infact, when I placed my order for front rotors, front pads, rear pads, from their website, a guy called me in about 15 minutes to just double check that I didn't make a mistake and leave out the rear rotors too. I also asked in the "special instructions" box to please verify the proper rotor size "16 wheel size" via my vin number, which he did willingly. I had the parts in 4 days. However, I only use online if the parts total more then $75 bucks. Anything under, and I usually just suck it up and go to the dealer. Shipping costs can erase any savings over the stealership, sometimes.

 

[nc211]

For the hardcore DIY guys it looks like you can buy rebuild parts to reseal the pistons for under $45/side. That's assuming you can get the old pistons out and they're serviceable. You can also buy individual pistons for under $25 each.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2005_TOYOTA_4RUNNER_UZN215L-GKAGKA_4705.html

It's probably worth it to go to NAPA and get new ones but somebody out there may want to do a preemptive overhaul...

:cheers:

Get the pistons out isn't too difficult, but it's certainly a project that requires some care, and brake fluid. You need a good air compressor that can generate about 100 psi, and a block of wood about 3/4-1 inch wide. Take the caliper off, back out the brake fluid zerk, put the air nozzle in the brake fluid hole "need a rubber tipped air nozzle for proper seal", place the wood block between the two rows of pistons, and pump the caliper with high pressure air. The easiest ones that move first, use channel locks to hold them in place, then the pressure is put on the one that is seized. It'll come loose. BUT, be warned, do not have your fingers anywhere near those pistons when they come out! They come out like a shotgun shell, with extreme force. When they hit the block of wood, it'll make you jump at first. Once the seized one is out, and the others are extended out to the point where you can grab them, tug and twist and they'll come out too.

 

[Colemanfu]

So they gave me a Yaras. Ouch. Very simple little car. Sucks comparo to the 4R.

When you sit in it you can't see the hood - just windshield and road.

The truck only goes to the beach a few times a year - don't even get a beach pass anymore. No reason other than Toyota for this to happen.

Wondering if the new ones will lock up when I hit 100K?

 

[peter78]

SORRY - $1,200.00 - told you I was shook - can't change the subject.

Through the magic of being a moderator, done.






(It said $12,000, now it shows $1,200 which is still a lot of money.)

 

[boston_kevin]

Yours is a 1 off and or a production line mistake. My 04 came with 17" wheels and has 12.6" rotors. Have you done the brakes yet? 12.6" and 13.3" use different brake pads. You can call the dealership parts Dept with your Vin and they can tell you what size rotors are on it.

I would also think the rotors would "look" bigger behind the 16" wheel since the wheel is 1" smaller. It would give the allusion of a larger rotor. As far as the measurement goes it would be hard to accurately measure the rotors while still attached to the vehicle.

The norm is as I list in the previous post.

As I mentioned, we pulled the wheels to verify. I have the 17" rims as the 13.3" rotors will not fit behind the 16" rims. My vehicle was made at the end of the model year, so perhaps it is a one-off, most SR5's around here have the 16" wheel option.

 

[RamThis]

1200 bucks for any sort of brake job is absolutely ludacris!!!

I can usually do all new pads, and rotors, using good shit not cheap Murray or whatever VatoZone sells, for about 300 bucks at most depending on the vehicle.

And I have NEVER had to replace ANY caliper EVER. They are rebuildable. I have yet to see one seize though personally, I would assume it has to due with some external conditions that caused it, like uneven pad wear, rust from salt water corrosion, overheating from towing or excessively hard braking, etc. As hard as I drive my vehicles I've never had more than just normal wear on my brakes. Hell my 96 Acura Integra GSR went 133K miles on the original factory brakes before I had to have the factory rotors turned and put new pads on.

 

[davido]

As a dealer tech, I know first-hand about the difference from what the technician states on the back side of the HARD COPY IN HIS/HER PEN, to what the SERVICE WRITER says to the customer. Some of us have been TOLD to recommend replacing parts in left and right equals. Even then, the SERVICE WRITER (sometimes referred to as assistant service manager-B.S.!) WILL ADD HIS/HER OWN NOTES AND RECOMMEND WHAT HE/SHE WANTS TO SELL!!
REQUEST AN ESTIMATE FOR REPLACEMENT OF ONLY THE FAILED PIECES, AND THOSE PIECES RETURNED.
In NORCAL, we dont experience calipers locking up until the car has a crapload of miles from the coastal areas! Never happens ON 03 UP gen 4rnrs! (for this area) mine included with 122k! To be fair, I have to say that every geographical area has it's own unique problems based on demographical stats! i.e. sand or salt in caliper boots.