12 Screws/bolts, 8 plastic pop rivits, 1 hr = 2.5" clearance

[phillyd2]

Just one heads up.....most tree savers use wider straps so they can be very hard to fit in the holes. Next to impossible if you are already stuck and you need to get under there in the mud. Don't remember which one I have but right now I'm not getting off the couch to go look :evil:

 

[Canazes9]

Just one heads up.....most tree savers use wider straps so they can be very hard to fit in the holes. Next to impossible if you are already stuck and you need to get under there in the mud. Don't remember which one I have but right now I'm not getting off the couch to go look :evil:

I'm gonna have to climb back under there tomorrow and see if there is room for a shackle on each eye - I think there is. That might be an easier way to attach a tree strap than running it all the way through.

Thanks again for your input!

David

 

[phillyd2]

D rings fit, no problem. You just don't want to leave them there all of the time.

 

[Intruder]

Those are not actually Tow Hooks... They're just for holding the vehicle down during transport.

They're tow hooks welded to the frame. I've been recovered from those points more times than I can count.

A nice trick if using them for any serious recovery is to run a shorter strap through BOTH and then connect it to your usual recovery strap with a D ring so the load is taken up by both tow hooks.

I suspect your snatch strap would break long before the tow hook as long as you're using one with the proper breaking strength. If the strap you run between the tow hooks snaps then you have a bow shackle flying through the air. It just sounds like adding unnecessary complexity with additional points of failure to me. Often with a dynamic recovery the angle of the pull changes during the recovery, which could cause the shorter strap to fray.

 

[phillyd2]

Pick your poison. When things break, crap is going to fly.

Bottom line is that they are not and were never designed as recovery point, as we use the term. Emergency towing on payment with somebody steering the towed truck is all Toyota saying is ok on a temporary basis.

 

[1engineer]

Here is an older thread going over the tow hooks. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/59697-tow-hook-placement-bad-2.html [MENTION=96409]Canazes9[/MENTION] posters like 2UZ in the linked thread is why my posts sometimes are "know it all" or "arrogant" or however you described them. You will notice he is banned and in communications with you I made mention of post count, or lack thereof. This guy has been here numerous times under many different names. He would start out being nice initially and after several posts he would start bashing members, their comments and everything in general. Classic troll and we have had several in the past three years so this is why.
Anyway back on topic! Anywhere on a 4Runner is a recovery point if you can use it to get unstuck lol. [MENTION=66300]Intruder[/MENTION] would know as good as anyone. He is one stuck up Canadian haha.

 

[toyslug]

To 1Engineer: I'm unable to pm you on the forum site?; so please pm me; tried sending pms and have no confirmation that they were successfully sent and unable to find my new messages sent to you.

Toyslug/Daniel

 

[Canazes9]

To 1Engineer: I'm unable to pm you on the forum site?; so please pm me; tried sending pms and have no confirmation that they were successfully sent and unable to find my new messages sent to you.

Toyslug/Daniel

Click User CP (upper left corner below the T4R.ORG banner)

Roll down a little past 1/2 way on the page. Under Settings & Options on the left hand side select "Edit Options".

Roll down to Messaging & Notifications in the center page column. Continue scrolling down to "Private Messaging"

Find the "Save a copy of sent messages in my Sent folder by default - check it.

Scroll to bottom of page, click "save changes"

David

 

[scanny]

A nice trick if using them for any serious recovery is to run a shorter strap through BOTH and then connect it to your usual recovery strap with a D ring so the load is taken up by both tow hooks.

On my Limited when stock and the SR5 rental recently I knocked off the 'plastic tidbit' on my first trail dip. If it had not I would have just removed it.

Don't do it please, it called "Death triangle", for scientific explanation check out here: American death triangle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

And those are valid recovery points we are talking about, if you guys want to see tie up points - look under Highlander - you'll clearly see the difference.

 

[Intruder]

Anywhere on a 4Runner is a recovery point if you can use it to get unstuck lol.

Including sliders - which is a good reason not to get full tread plating on them. Dynamic vs static recovery makes a big difference too as well as knowing when one is better than the other. A lot of it is common sense (no, the rear axle is not a good recovery point) but with three tow hooks on the 5th gen - 2 front and one rear - sliders, and receiver shackles those are all I've ever needed. I honestly don't think that the tow hooks are any less solid than the recovery points on an aftermarket bumper and like I said before, a recovery strap with the correct breaking strength for the vehicles involved in the recovery should break long before your shackles or tow hooks. Any recovery is a dangerous thing so all you can do is minimize the risks involved.

 

[badhabits]

Including sliders - which is a good reason not to get full tread plating on them. Dynamic vs static recovery makes a big difference too as well as knowing when one is better than the other. A lot of it is common sense (no, the rear axle is not a good recovery point) but with three tow hooks on the 5th gen - 2 front and one rear - sliders, and receiver shackles those are all I've ever needed. I honestly don't think that the tow hooks are any less solid than the recovery points on an aftermarket bumper and like I said before, a recovery strap with the correct breaking strength for the vehicles involved in the recovery should break long before your shackles or tow hooks. Any recovery is a dangerous thing so all you can do is minimize the risks involved.

Having been on both sides of recovery situations I have found that by using some simple steps in this order that injury and damage can be eliminated.

!: Common Sense
2: Planning
3: Experience
4: Proper equipment

Brute force is the most common method when doing a recovery, this is when things break and people get hurt no matter what recovery point, or equipment is used. I have found that in almost all recovery cases finesse works the best.

 

[Intruder]

Having been on both sides of recovery situations I have found that by using some simple steps in this order that injury and damage can be eliminated.

The chances of injury or damage can be significantly reduced but never fully eliminated in any recovery situation.

 

[badhabits]

The chances of injury or damage can be significantly reduced but never fully eliminated in any recovery situation.

Quite right sir, thank you for the correction.

 

[eddiebx]

Including sliders - which is a good reason not to get full tread plating on them. Dynamic vs static recovery makes a big difference too as well as knowing when one is better than the other. A lot of it is common sense (no, the rear axle is not a good recovery point) but with three tow hooks on the 5th gen - 2 front and one rear - sliders, and receiver shackles those are all I've ever needed. I honestly don't think that the tow hooks are any less solid than the recovery points on an aftermarket bumper and like I said before, a recovery strap with the correct breaking strength for the vehicles involved in the recovery should break long before your shackles or tow hooks. Any recovery is a dangerous thing so all you can do is minimize the risks involved.

Since this thread has gone way off topic, I figured I'd just ask this here since it's kind of relevant to the current discussion.

What do you guys think about a front hitch + receiver shackle attachment as a front recovery point?

According to Curt, it is supposedly rated for 9000 lbs straight line pull?

https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/31367/installsheet/CM_31367_INS.PDF

Do you think this is any better/safer than just using the factory tow hooks?

 

[Intruder]

Since this thread has gone way off topic, I figured I'd just ask this here since it's kind of relevant to the current discussion.

What do you guys think about a front hitch + receiver shackle attachment as a front recovery point?

According to Curt, it is supposedly rated for 9000 lbs straight line pull?

https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/31367/installsheet/CM_31367_INS.PDF

Do you think this is any better/safer than just using the factory tow hooks?

I have zero experience with those but I thought they were only meant to mount a winch. In the linked PDF it says:
Use OEM tow hooks, recovery eyes or a clevis mount for attachment of a tow strap or winch cable.

I'd check with the manufacturer to see if it's safe to use with a receiver shackle for dynamic recoveries.

 

[limamike]

Agreed, trying to minimize any further damage - not everybody can be an off-road ninja.

David

Very true! :thumb: