13wl Upgrade, bled/new adjusted shoes...still horrible pedal

05SVRACER

05SVRACER

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Well, I upgraded to the 13wl 231mm calipers last week. Bled, and rebled the lines, and also the abs module just to make sure. All new fluid. Still had crappy brake pedal to where it has excessive travel and and doesn't stop well. Searched on here and yotatech and saw some posts about the rear brakes causing this. Replaced and adjusted the rear shoes as well as the wheel cylinders (one had swollen rubber) and I still have the same issue. Pedal goes WAAAAAY down and the thing stops half as well as it did before hand. With the truck off, the pedal feels firm, start it up and the pedal travels, rev it up and the pedal travels even more. I know I don't have a vacuum leak, double checked for that. Usually a brake booster going out will cause a hard pedal, not a soft one.

Saw a couple of posts reguarding replacing the booster and master with a late model T100. Before I drop that kind of coin (making this upgrade and rear brakes nearly$1000) Wanted to get some feedback and maybe something I'm missing

Thanks

Steve
 
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will the pedal pump up higher?


how is the ebrake? does it have a lot of clicks before its tight?

edit: do those calipers have larger diameter pistons? if yes, you will need an MC with a bigger bore.
 
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You can pump, but it just drops back down.

Ebrake is about 8 clicks to tight...spec from what I found it 7-9.
 
05SVRACER said:
You can pump, but it just drops back down.

Ebrake is about 8 clicks to tight...spec from what I found it 7-9.
Click to expand...

so if you pump it up, it wont stay if you keep your foot on the pedal? it just bleeds back down?

sounds like a bad MC. also, check my edit above.
 
Yeah, It just bleeds down. Just disconnected the vaccum to the booster and drove it. Pedal was stiff, but still traveled down. What doesn't make sense is that they were fine beforehand. Maybe the MC just decided to take a dump when I did all this. Replaced the lines with SS lines too.

Looks like I'll be buying a MC and booster. Anyone have any specifics on what model/Trim T100 I need it off of or what other vehicle? Gotta get on this soon, not safe to drive...
 
I had this happen to my truck too when I did the Tundra Break Upgrade. My friend and I ended up bleeding the brakes over 10 times and we still couldn't get it right, it felt too dangerous to drive. We thought my MC and booster needed to be replaced. But then I believe my friend ended up bleeding the MC from under the hood (I think), after that my brakes were incredible, until I changed out the rears. So now I have to do it again.

Some things I need to try after reading more about the problem.

- place a 2x4 or a book under the pedal while bleeding.
- make sure the key is in the "accessory" position, with the engine off. This seems to be the key.
 
a 2x4 under the pedal?

I bled it at the abs module, maybe from the MC itself? Don't think I did it with the key on...
 
Any chance you let the MC go dry while bleeding? If so, there is a procedure for bleeding the MC on the truck, then you need to rebleed the brakes themselves. This happened to me the first time. I didn't realize the MC reservoir had two compartments and either can go dry and let air in.

Post back if you want the procedure; it's in my '99 paper FSM, but does not apply to the later models with VSC etc. so not in the on-line FSM.
 
Did you double check to make sure you have the calipers on the correct sides with the bleeder valve on top? Did you replace the brake lines also?
 
ADJUST YOUR REAR DRUMS!!!!! Adjust till you cant turn the drum then come off just a click or two until it turns. I did this and was scratching my head for a while till I did this, now it stops so much better!!
 
The rear shoes and wheel cylinders are new, and adjusted properly. The right rear is actually a tad tight, and I need to back it off a couple clicks. I did replace the lines with SS lines when I did the upgrade, no bubbles. I have activated the ABS a few times and not gotten air, however I didn't bleed from the MC itself, did from where the lines from the MC go into the ABS module and from all 4 wheels. As far as the calipers, I will double check, but the lines mated right up in the correct location when I put them into the new calipers, would think I would have noticed if they were 3-4inches below where the line was suppose to go...then again stupid happens :confused: What's the deal with the key on vs off? And would it help to do it while running?

Littlecaesar: Why pull the ABS fuse

Thedurk: That would be awesome if you could get the procedure from the FSM to me! I think i need to bleed the MC and rebleed everything else per the factory procedure...
 
Bump...going to do the bleeding again in a couple hours...anyone with access to the FSM bleed procedure for pre complicated ABS?
 
05SVRACER said:
Bump...going to do the bleeding again in a couple hours...anyone with access to the FSM bleed procedure for pre complicated ABS?
Click to expand...

Here you go:
 

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Thanks Durk! That's the same procedure that's in all data that I have. Pedal feels better, but still drops down far when running...
 
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