1987 22RTE Need Some Assistance

[87' 22rte]

I have an 87 4 runner 4wd, auto, 22rte and I am looking for information on how to properly test the fuel injector resistor solenoid , voltage and ohms test?

Can anyone help me with this?

Update- This problem was solved, read down for the rest of this puzzle if your interested!

 

[Frank Rizzo]

well you can disconnect the connector and probe the pins with the key on engine off you should have battery voltage at the connector. also you can check resistance of the injector itself, im not sure of the spec but it should have some resistance, as long as its not showing open i'd say you're ok.

 

[87' 22rte]

I need a little more detail than that lol. Its not that simple, that is why there are specs. I have the battery voltage going in and out of the resistor which I'm not sure is correct to begin with. I wonder if the battery voltage is supposed to be reduced coming out or what?

As far as ohms testing I would like to know if I probe the one wire from resistor to battery and then each of the other two on opposing plug with the other probe?

 

[KidVermicious]

Is there any difference between the resistor on the RTE and the RE? I have FSMs for the '85 and '88 but nothing for a turbo motor.

 

[87' 22rte]

Honestly I could not say. I am a great take it apart put it back together kinda guy. Troubleshooting just isn't my strong suit.

 

[KidVermicious]

This is everything my '88 FSM has on the injector resistor.

 

[Munkymag]

Keep me updated on your issues i own a turbo 4runner too but have no ideal of what your asking? So your getting no fuel?

 

[87' 22rte]

Sry it has taken so long.

I have spark, fuel, and air. The truck will fire right up, then just die off. I have tried all the basic methods for troubleshooting via toyota forums etc...

Long story short, found this truck sitting up, fixed some wires, and had it running in no time. I was driving it around and all of a sudden it had this weird loss of power. No matter how far the gas pedal was depressed the power kept dying off until eventually it died.

I installed a brand new pick up coil, 02 sensor, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, brand new ct20 turbo, intake/exhaust manifold gasket, air filter, ecu, etc...

I have ohms tested the afm, tps, and the injectors. Since it died all these things are testing fine, the injectors have power and pulse from the ecu when starting. When I do get it started it sounds freaking great, but then it seems to just die out onj its own.

I can get it to start and idle sometimes, but when I hit the throttle. or wait too long it dies on its own. I have tried two different ecu's, and my afm works on my buddys 22re just fine so I know it is good.

I have been searching for all the ohms spec testing for the turbo ecu and cannot find those specs. Anyone with pages they dont mind sharing I would be forever grateful.

Ty to those who have shared their thoughts this far. I appreciate it.

 

[KidVermicious]

Here's the '88 Factory Service Manual I got the pages upthread from. It has a turbo section, I don't know if it has the info you need. DL it soon as you can because I'm not going to leave it live forever.

 

[87' 22rte]

Just downloaded.

I have the file, ty for that. I am out there atm messing around with it. I will post something if anythign changes, ty again. File is downloaded

 

[nevada]

have you checked the pump?
pressure tested it?

 

[87' 22rte]

Fuel

I haven't checked it with a gauge knowing that so many people have issues with that from time to time. I do know that I always have pressure at my cold start banjo and to the injectors themselves.

I have jumped my fuel pump in the diagnosis box and can hear it any time the key is on, same results. Now here is the kicker, If I jump the fuel pump in the diagnosis box and keep the flapper in the afm propped open to just the right spot, i can kinda keep it running. Which is why I don't think it is the fuel pump.

But wait, before u say its the afm. I have taken this same afm to my buddies house with a 22re and it fires up and runs with it just fine. Throttle up or down, or idle sounds great.

I just started it again, it starts right up then acts like it has been killed somewhere in the system. Yet I never have a check engine light or diagnosis code to go by.

My solenoid resistor was at 3.5 k on both sides, but i have read that such an amount should not cause a problem. I also have voltage to the injectors, and a ground pulse from the ECU.

 

[nevada]

vacuum leak?
ive seen a lot of these get a hole rubbed in the bottom of the intake tube, coming out of the airbox, they cause something very similar to this.

 

[87' 22rte]

Vacuum

Not a drop. One of the first things I had checked after looking up similar problems in the forums.

315 pm PST - Update- Resistance testing in the fsm calls for 140 to 180 ohms between Ne-E2 on the backside of the connector with it unplugged from the ecu itself. As of right now I do not have an ohms signal from this but if I switch my meter to continuity I do get a reading(735) just a weird resistance reading of some sort but then like I said on the ohms part it shows nothing no matter which ohms setting I try.

I left the meter plugged in and wiggled all the wires from the ignition to the distributor and see if I could get a change. (Nothing with the ohms selected or the continuity). Gonna go back to coil/igniter testing for the moment to make sure I am at spec.

 

[Munkymag]

Replaced two of my fuel pump relays

Try this link brother. I had what i thought too be a fuel pump issues but when i took out the fuel pump it still worked. I replaced two relay fuse. Relays from the fuel pump system.

87 4 Runner, Fuel Pump Goes Dead - YotaTech Forums

Good luck brother.

From what i understand if i'm right. My turbo 4runner starting losing power when i was driving it too. Towed it home and unplugged the fuel line too see if i was getting fuel. Nothing right so i thought man i need ah new fuel pump. Nope. In the link i found out that there were two relays one by the driver side by your left foot and one relay under the glove box too the left (by the ac/heater). I think if i remember right, these relays tell the fuel pump when too pump and one of them keeps it pumping after you let go of the key, while one only works when your on the key (starting the car). Might be that one of these relays are out on yours. Cause you said you can start it but it won't hold.

 

[87' 22rte]

Fuel Pump/Relay

"Might be that one of these relays are out on yours. Cause you said you can start it but it won't hold."


Problem with that is that even with the COR Relay bypassed and the fuel pump jumped it still does the exact same thing every time I start it.

 

[KidVermicious]

But wait, before u say its the afm. I have taken this same afm to my buddies house with a 22re and it fires up and runs with it just fine. Throttle up or down, or idle sounds great.

I just started it again, it starts right up then acts like it has been killed somewhere in the system. Yet I never have a check engine light or diagnosis code to go by.

Hate to say it, but that does sound exactly like the AFM. You say the unit itself tests ok, but what about the plug and harness on your truck? Maybe a bad pin or short in the wires causing a bad AFM signal to the ECU?

*edit - another thought. There's a connector that comes out of the harness between the plenum and block and crosses the valve cover to plug in somewhere near the ignitor/coil on the drivers fender. No idea what that connector does, but when it's unplugged it behaves exactly like a bad AFM - the truck will start and immediately die, though if you play with the throttle it might stumble a bit before it croaks. I know because I left that connector draped over the passenger fender once and forgot to plug it in and spent 45 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong with my AFM . So check that wiring too.

 

[87' 22rte]

Update- Even though I am throwing no codes, I cannot get the 0.14-0.18 k Ohms on the Ne-E1 with the ECU unplugged. I have went all around wiggling wires to and from the ignition, then the coil/distributor without a change or spike in the meter.



OK Final Update!!!!!!!!!!!! I backtracked the Ne wire from the ECU which is Black/Red stripe to the 3 prong connector under the plenum which then crosses over the valve cover and plugs directly into the igniter.

I have an ohms reading directly from my pickup coil to the igniter, but then when it tries to go back to the ECU from the igniter, it disappears. This has to be the igniter then?

Any one have a turbo igniter they might want to part with, I might have some other toyota parts we could trade. Some 3vze and 22 ret