1995 4runner DD/adventure rig "Killbox"

Wish I had more time to do something like this. Nice job, awesome new look.

Thanks, Cali! Not sure its a "new" look like you said (I won't complain though!). Seems like the 1.5" spacer lift is the go-to lift for this generation of rig, rightly so! Its easy, cheap, and gets good results when it is done correctly! And as far as the truck I really can't claim too much fame, I just happened to be in the right time frame at the right place with the bank account to match! I'm sure there are some gems around your neck of the woods down there on the west coast, and shipping prices are a-lot less as well!
 
Nice looking runner man! Keep up the good work! You should Contact kid and have it added to the master build thread
 
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super nice build. are you a mechanic by trade?

Thanks Amalik, appreciate it! Not a mechanic by trade, salmon fishing in the summers and school in the winters at this point, but I also have a culinary degree/background, and some experience in a few different butcher shops/game processing.

Why do you ask?

Nice looking runner man! Keep up the good work! You should Contact kid and have it added to the master build thread

Thanks! Will do... as funds allow! Seems like everything came together quickly when you pull it all together for the forums, but the reality was it was a long slog to get it to where it is now, and barring any major windfalls it will probably stay close to its current set-up for a few years.

Is "kid" the admin?
 
Yeah if you search for the master build thread you can contact him there. I know what you mean about the way things seem to come together. I’m going to do this stuff and then it will probably be awhile until I get around to doing much more myself
 
Finally got around to getting some engine bay pictures, you can see how much room the egr and cruise delete netted me on the passenger side of the block, easier to change plugs there than the other side! Also seen is the knock sensor bypass, tapped into the intake manifold and grounded on the lce block off plate.

Went back to my sr5 rims to match all the chrome on the truck (not a fan), and I have to say I love the way that the 33's look on these rims vs. the steel offset. It solved a minor rub under compression issue I was having, as well as stiffened up the ride a touch as well. Plus I was able to use my OEM hub-caps, which is one of my favorite parts of the truck following the OEM layout.

Also pulled the trigger on a fifth 33x10.5 spare on matching rim, just for peace of mind. I know I had talked about moving down to 31's, but after getting everything tuned in and netting a conservative 17 mpg mixed driving I think I can deal with the loss of power. They are great tires for us up here in Alaska, and should put up with the mild wheeling I do when aired down as well as great long distance performance for road trips.

I do have an issue with the rear shocks, I mounted the new mounts too high up on the axle, and even with the 1.5 coil spacer, there are a few frost heaves that I bottom out the shocks on my daily commute. I am considering getting into a set of OME 901 HD coils (2+ lift) to give me some more rise and resistance against the shocks bottoming out.

Does anyone have any experience running these coils? How about with a spacer? What shocks are you running?

Another option would be sourcing some shorter shocks, but I like the idea of having some more beef out back to handle summer gear for camping and offroading.

Thanks in advance.

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Also a few interior shots.

The 4wd shift had to be trimmed to work with the marlin short shift. The kit was initially for a 151f I had that got sold with the prior truck, but I decided to keep the kit for the 150 on the runner. Had to modify the transfer case shifter to keep from interference from the gear shift, as well as use the stock shift bushing which was in decent shape. With the marlin bushing, I couldn't get the case piece to push down and turn to lock the shifter into place.

Also a shot of the OEM Toyota fog switch in place in the dash punchout, almost a perfect fit, with just a minute edge not falling into place, hardly noticeable.

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The first long trip this last weekend went well (Palmer south to Seward, Alaska). Playing around with gas mileage numbers/fuel types and I am finding that I am getting better gas mileage with premium fuel. Average speed was 70 mph over 200 miles, and I averaged 20 miles a gallon even with some steep climbs in 4th. Tires were at 37 PSI. I still need to address the rear shock mounts, but only managed to bottom out once on the drive through the mountains. Interestingly enough running low-grade fuel and reducing the average speed to 60 I lost a 1 mpg, even the route was more downhill than going in. I figure I am splitting hairs with the cost-benefit of premium vs. not, but I kind of like the experimentation. It does run better on premium. Some pictures from the trip are attached.

Looking towards this summer as far as mods go I am planning on making some changes:
CVT RTT on rear 3 roof bars
ARB 2500 Awning
Yukon grizzly rear locker w/master rebuild kit for the diff
Rear seat delete-build boxes in the area
OME rear HD 1.5" lift springs
Relocate rear lower shock mounts
Move fog lights and light bar inside bumper
CB radio
4-crawler track bar bracket
Mudflaps

Secondary to all of that I would like to get all the chrome plasti-dipped to match the body color, and get the rims powdercoated gun-metal grey.

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How does your rig handle on the highway? Also--HOW are you getting 20-19 MPG. I run 87 sometimes 89 and get, on the highway, 13.45 mpg no matter what. Going up hills with people in the back? 13.45. Heading on I-40 for 200 miles with no climbing or crazy passing? 13.45. Coupled with the shaking and the still loose steering, I just avoid highways.
 
How does your rig handle on the highway? Also--HOW are you getting 20-19 MPG. I run 87 sometimes 89 and get, on the highway, 13.45 mpg no matter what. Going up hills with people in the back? 13.45. Heading on I-40 for 200 miles with no climbing or crazy passing? 13.45. Coupled with the shaking and the still loose steering, I just avoid highways.

Hey Keaton! My rig loves the highway honestly. It’s not winning any races, but if I can hit hills at 70-73 I can pull a lot of them in fifth, even if I end up doing 60-63. No shakes, no pulls, I am getting comfortable with taking 4th gear up to around 3300-3500 sustained to keep with traffic. That being said I try to stay out of the throttle as much as possible and let the truck set the pace - old 22re habits. I do have the knock sensor bypass (code 52) so I try not to bog it too much and err on the side of downshifting if I feel like it’s getting loaded.

I think there is a bunch of factors that go into the mpg.
Motor: cleaned injectors with fresh seals on them, valves cleaned and clearanced, oem plugs/wires/distributor, EGR/cat delete, fresh rings, synthetic 5/30, oem exhaust
Drivetrain: ADD delete, 5speed manual (this is a big one I think), 4.56 gears, synthetic fluids in all cases
Tires: 33.10.5.15 ko2’s which are lighter than most tires as well as not an overly beefy tread + aluminum SR5 rims
Other: I deleted the AC compressor and belt - I have had mixed reviews from old toyota guys. Some people say it makes no difference because if it’s on the truck but not on it doesn’t tax the system. I was the one that pulled it off and I saw the pressure that AC system had in it, pretty incredible. Kind of like your ADD hubs we talked about, they could be moving even when disengaged - I felt that way about the AC.
Making sure no breaks are dragging all the way around and that the hubs, bearings and joints are well greased and in good working order.
I have noticed a difference with running premium fuel.
Keeping the weight down with just the minimal amount of gear and no giant bumpers - I could probably get more if I pulled the roof racks off, but I really like the look and don’t get any extra sound from it. I will probably pull them next winter.
Sensors are another issue - I replaced the ignition coil module with a used module (was throwing a code), also replacing the fuel filter. The big one here was replacing the o2 sensor with a denso oem one - even though it never threw an o2 code.
Advanced timing to between 11-13 (possibly lessened the mpg, but I felt like i would be better off staying out of the throttle and letting the advance work then fighting the pedal and gears to keep up good speed.
Tires run at a firmer pressure.

And that’s basically it. Honestly I went from 15-16 average in town to 18 in one tank, had been running a few thousand at the lower average. They run the same kind of gas year round up here, so I can’t account it to that. I think the motor is just finally breaking in after the rebuild.
 
Hey Keaton! My rig loves the highway honestly. It’s not winning any races, but if I can hit hills at 70-73 I can pull a lot of them in fifth, even if I end up doing 60-63. No shakes, no pulls, I am getting comfortable with taking 4th gear up to around 3300-3500 sustained to keep with traffic. That being said I try to stay out of the throttle as much as possible and let the truck set the pace - old 22re habits. I do have the knock sensor bypass (code 52) so I try not to bog it too much and err on the side of downshifting if I feel like it’s getting loaded.

I think there is a bunch of factors that go into the mpg.
Motor: cleaned injectors with fresh seals on them, valves cleaned and clearanced, oem plugs/wires/distributor, EGR/cat delete, fresh rings, synthetic 5/30, oem exhaust
Drivetrain: ADD delete, 5speed manual (this is a big one I think), 4.56 gears, synthetic fluids in all cases
Tires: 33.10.5.15 ko2’s which are lighter than most tires as well as not an overly beefy tread + aluminum SR5 rims
Other: I deleted the AC compressor and belt - I have had mixed reviews from old toyota guys. Some people say it makes no difference because if it’s on the truck but not on it doesn’t tax the system. I was the one that pulled it off and I saw the pressure that AC system had in it, pretty incredible. Kind of like your ADD hubs we talked about, they could be moving even when disengaged - I felt that way about the AC.
Making sure no breaks are dragging all the way around and that the hubs, bearings and joints are well greased and in good working order.
I have noticed a difference with running premium fuel.
Keeping the weight down with just the minimal amount of gear and no giant bumpers - I could probably get more if I pulled the roof racks off, but I really like the look and don’t get any extra sound from it. I will probably pull them next winter.
Sensors are another issue - I replaced the ignition coil module with a used module (was throwing a code), also replacing the fuel filter. The big one here was replacing the o2 sensor with a denso oem one - even though it never threw an o2 code.
Advanced timing to between 11-13 (possibly lessened the mpg, but I felt like i would be better off staying out of the throttle and letting the advance work then fighting the pedal and gears to keep up good speed.
Tires run at a firmer pressure.

And that’s basically it. Honestly I went from 15-16 average in town to 18 in one tank, had been running a few thousand at the lower average. They run the same kind of gas year round up here, so I can’t account it to that. I think the motor is just finally breaking in after the rebuild.

My truck sounds extremely similar to yours regarding what I've done. I still have smog/emissions and A/C (essential down here in Redneck swamp kuntry). 5speed, 4.56s, still have my OEM cat though, advanced to 12*, new O2, but I run smaller tires. Thinking about deleting ADD but that was one of the neatest features of the truck new. With the big 'ol roof basket off I wonder now if I get any better MPGs. That and keeping to 70 MPH. Too bad it shakes the sh*t out of you at that speed. Thanks for the info.
 
The first long trip this last weekend went well (Palmer south to Seward, Alaska). Playing around with gas mileage numbers/fuel types and I am finding that I am getting better gas mileage with premium fuel. Average speed was 70 mph over 200 miles, and I averaged 20 miles a gallon even with some steep climbs in 4th. Tires were at 37 PSI. I still need to address the rear shock mounts, but only managed to bottom out once on the drive through the mountains. Interestingly enough running low-grade fuel and reducing the average speed to 60 I lost a 1 mpg, even the route was more downhill than going in. I figure I am splitting hairs with the cost-benefit of premium vs. not, but I kind of like the experimentation. It does run better on premium. Some pictures from the trip are attached.

Looking towards this summer as far as mods go I am planning on making some changes:
CVT RTT on rear 3 roof bars
ARB 2500 Awning
Yukon grizzly rear locker w/master rebuild kit for the diff
Rear seat delete-build boxes in the area
OME rear HD 1.5" lift springs
Relocate rear lower shock mounts
Move fog lights and light bar inside bumper
CB radio
4-crawler track bar bracket
Mudflaps

Secondary to all of that I would like to get all the chrome plasti-dipped to match the body color, and get the rims powdercoated gun-metal grey.

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crap I miss living in alaska!
Adding that air brake CVT tent will cut your mileage a bit but it will be worth it. Nice being off the ground when camping:thumb:
 
Got the RTT and awning mounted up and few test sleeps the last couple weekends. I sleep great on the memory foam, and it is super handy not to have to pull everything out of the back to go to bed. I am getting around 17.5 mpg city these days, driving conservatively. It is definitely a kite up there on the roof, but not as bad as it looks. It took some finesse to get the yakima bars and track mounts on the tent where I wanted it, but it ended up good. I am still in the process of trusting the tent up there at highway speeds, but getting more comfortable by the day.

Speaking of comfort, I ended up measuring my shock mounts and getting a rear shock that was about 3" shorter than what I had on there. Just some oreilly cheap thing, not even sure about the application. I had to drill out the stud holes on one end to work but got them on there. It solved my bottoming out issue I was having, which is great not to have to worry about.

I saved my old shocks because eventually I will go with cruiser coils in the rear and those shocks will work with that application.

Got all the gear sorted out and looking forward to hitting the road this summer!
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Got the RTT and awning mounted up and few test sleeps the last couple weekends. I sleep great on the memory foam, and it is super handy not to have to pull everything out of the back to go to bed. I am getting around 17.5 mpg city these days, driving conservatively. It is definitely a kite up there on the roof, but not as bad as it looks. It took some finesse to get the yakima bars and track mounts on the tent where I wanted it, but it ended up good. I am still in the process of trusting the tent up there at highway speeds, but getting more comfortable by the day.

Speaking of comfort, I ended up measuring my shock mounts and getting a rear shock that was about 3" shorter than what I had on there. Just some oreilly cheap thing, not even sure about the application. I had to drill out the stud holes on one end to work but got them on there. It solved my bottoming out issue I was having, which is great not to have to worry about.

I saved my old shocks because eventually I will go with cruiser coils in the rear and those shocks will work with that application.

Got all the gear sorted out and looking forward to hitting the road this summer!
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Man I'm always worried about the shear factor on the bolts. A rooftop tent looks amazing though.
 
Got the RTT and awning mounted up and few test sleeps the last couple weekends. I sleep great on the memory foam, and it is super handy not to have to pull everything out of the back to go to bed. I am getting around 17.5 mpg city these days, driving conservatively. It is definitely a kite up there on the roof, but not as bad as it looks. It took some finesse to get the yakima bars and track mounts on the tent where I wanted it, but it ended up good. I am still in the process of trusting the tent up there at highway speeds, but getting more comfortable by the day.

Speaking of comfort, I ended up measuring my shock mounts and getting a rear shock that was about 3" shorter than what I had on there. Just some oreilly cheap thing, not even sure about the application. I had to drill out the stud holes on one end to work but got them on there. It solved my bottoming out issue I was having, which is great not to have to worry about.

I saved my old shocks because eventually I will go with cruiser coils in the rear and those shocks will work with that application.

Got all the gear sorted out and looking forward to hitting the road this summer!
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Wish my runner came with roofrails. I wonder how hard it would be to install factory rails if you're runner never came with them...
 
O.B.A.K: the mileage is awesome with the tent up there!
Wish my runner came with roofrails. I wonder how hard it would be to install factory rails if you're runner never came with them...
actually not too bad. i extended my factory rails about 20". I used a 1/4-20 nutsert kit off amazon
20180322_124327 by ocdropzone, on Flickr
i drilled the holes, just barely punching through the sheet metalI just sealed the holes with a liberal dose of silicone. 2 years later no leaks.

sorry for the thread jack
 

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