1biker’s ’97 SR5 Timeline and Journey

Question about the rattle in your cat: Did you hear it all the time? Or only at certain RPM's?

I have a rattle that I believe to be in the exhaust, but like you, can't find it easily. I suspect it might be in the cat also. Mine only rattles at higher RPM's, like just before the auto trans shifts into the next gear.

Also, do you have a part number for the Magnaflow replacement cat?

Thanks for any help.
 
Question about the rattle in your cat: Did you hear it all the time? Or only at certain RPM's?

I have a rattle that I believe to be in the exhaust, but like you, can't find it easily. I suspect it might be in the cat also. Mine only rattles at higher RPM's, like just before the auto trans shifts into the next gear.

Also, do you have a part number for the Magnaflow replacement cat?

Thanks for any help.

My rattle started from off idle and then seemed to disappear in the 3500-4000rpm range. It’s hard to know if it actually disappeared or if it was just being drown out by engine noise, tire noise etc. as vehicle speed increased. If I revved the engine without any load (in neutral) I could rarely get it to rattle in the same way. It was also very inconsistent when rattling, while driving if I changed throttle position ever so slightly the rattle could disappear or become worse, or just stay the same. When the exhaust was cold the rattle was less.

To help track it down I had the wife put it in drive with brakes applied and give it some throttle while I was under the truck. I used a piece of wood to press on the various shields and suspected components to see if I could track it down. I originally thought it was the Cat’s heat shield so I took some pliers and re-crimped the shield around the Cat even though it didn’t appear loose in any way, thinking maybe it was just a tiny amount of movement that was being amplified. That did nothing. After that I used a soft face hammer and lightly tapped the Cat (not the shield) and I could hear it rattle in the same manner. Get a helper to replicate your rattle conditions (load/rpm) while you’re under the truck. Not the safest thing but it’s the only way I found the culprit.

I bought my Magnaflow 27301 from my local auto parts shop as the price was the same as online and I didn’t have to worry about shipping damage. The quality is so-so. I’m not expecting it to last 20 years like the original.

Hope that helps, please post back if/when you track it down and good luck!
 
My rattle started from off idle and then seemed to disappear in the 3500-4000rpm range. It’s hard to know if it actually disappeared or if it was just being drown out by engine noise, tire noise etc. as vehicle speed increased. If I revved the engine without any load (in neutral) I could rarely get it to rattle in the same way. It was also very inconsistent when rattling, while driving if I changed throttle position ever so slightly the rattle could disappear or become worse, or just stay the same. When the exhaust was cold the rattle was less.

To help track it down I had the wife put it in drive with brakes applied and give it some throttle while I was under the truck. I used a piece of wood to press on the various shields and suspected components to see if I could track it down. I originally thought it was the Cat’s heat shield so I took some pliers and re-crimped the shield around the Cat even though it didn’t appear loose in any way, thinking maybe it was just a tiny amount of movement that was being amplified. That did nothing. After that I used a soft face hammer and lightly tapped the Cat (not the shield) and I could hear it rattle in the same manner. Get a helper to replicate your rattle conditions (load/rpm) while you’re under the truck. Not the safest thing but it’s the only way I found the culprit.

I bought my Magnaflow 27301 from my local auto parts shop as the price was the same as online and I didn’t have to worry about shipping damage. The quality is so-so. I’m not expecting it to last 20 years like the original.

Hope that helps, please post back if/when you track it down and good luck!

Thanks for the info! I will start looking into it when I get a chance.
 
Installed Rocky Mountain Racks Antero Ext

Threw on the Rocky Mountain Racks Antero Ext this weekend and gave her a bath.

Most people paint these so they come "raw" from the machine shop. I had to bust out the elbow grease, steel wool and scotch brite pads to get the side rails looking good. Looks wise I am a bit unsure. Not sure if I like the look of the rack on my stock rig period or because it's not black? On people's more built rigs it looks so sweet, that's why I got it! I think since I'm stock it adds too much visual "weight" to the top of the vehicle. I want bigger tires and have been thinking about sliders, both would help the look. Going to leave it raw for awhile and see if it grows on me. Maybe take off the running boards, see how it looks. Maybe get bigger tires, see how it looks. Maybe powder coat it...

Overall I'm happy with the rack, it's burly, will be super versatile and should see some fun use. Fit and finish is in line with the price.

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Cape Disappointment, WA - August 2-7, 2018

Finally getting around to posting our latest trip.

Cape Disappointment, WA - August 2-7, 2018

Myself and my family have been camping at the Cape Disappointment State park every year for the last decade plus. We love how close the beach is to the camp sites, plenty of great paths to walk or ride and it’s always beautiful and relaxing.

This was the first time taking the 4Runner here, and this trip is always a gear explosion. 5 nights worth of food, clothes for any and all weather, booze, tents, bags, bikes etc makes for a full vehicle. The Antero Ext Rack was a huge improvement that allowed me to position the heavy times more central in the Runner and put the odd shaped items up on the rack. Really stoked on the rack, have plenty of ideas and tweaks in mind for it for use during all seasons.

With the truck loaded up and the bikes out back my rear end squat wasn't overly bad but it would have been nice to have a bit more load capacity while keeping ride height. Starting to think about new springs, maybe a Sonoran Steel lift, maybe Air Helpers. We will see. Not an immediate need, but a full load has been a concern that finally materialized and has got me thinking about the next upgrade.

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Wife tired after a day of driving. This is the first time she has spent some hours driving the rig post replacing the drivers seat foams. She commented that it was more comfortable, perfect! Happy wife, happy 4Runner life.

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This beach has changed a lot over the years but especially over that last few. This state park may not exist in the next 10-20 years because of the changing sands/tides.

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Love looking at her, but with the new rack she is needing some new shoes. Duratracs might be getting mounted before winter.

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When you get them, the sunsets are incredible.

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Fun and beautiful paved trail along the shore up to Long Beach.

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Carved wooden Gray Whale and calf sculpture.

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Cool not so secret, secret place.

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During this trip we celebrated our 1 year anniversary. Glamping it up with the last bottle of sparkling wine from the wedding, in our Yeti tumblers.

Good time and the rig performed beautifully, can’t ask for much more.
 
Hey Justin!! Glad to see you getting out and about. I am jealous of your swanky RM roof rack. Soon man... soon. If you can hold out till October, you can take advantage of Discount Tire Direct eBay pricing. They do $100 off per $400 spent. Break your purchase of 4 to 5 new tires into two separate purchases and you can save $200 with free shipping and probably no tax. That, or you can use the price to get a local brick and mortar Discount Tire to match the online deal.

As far as tires go, also consider Nitto Ridge Grapplers as a good all terrain option. I know the Goodyear Durratracs have a good reputation, especially when they are new, but they are know for getting a good bit louder as they wear and don't have the most robust sidewalls. Still, they are a pretty good all arounder. I am already looking forward to next years Northwest Overland Rally.

Take care and keep having a fun summer man. And congratulations on your anniversary! WOOOHOOO!!
 
Hey Justin!! Glad to see you getting out and about. I am jealous of your swanky RM roof rack. Soon man... soon. If you can hold out till October, you can take advantage of Discount Tire Direct eBay pricing. They do $100 off per $400 spent. Break your purchase of 4 to 5 new tires into two separate purchases and you can save $200 with free shipping and probably no tax. That, or you can use the price to get a local brick and mortar Discount Tire to match the online deal.

As far as tires go, also consider Nitto Ridge Grapplers as a good all terrain option. I know the Goodyear Durratracs have a good reputation, especially when they are new, but they are know for getting a good bit louder as they wear and don't have the most robust sidewalls. Still, they are a pretty good all arounder.

Thanks for the heads up on the tire deal, Ryder. I was following your gear/tire thread to see what people recommended. I don't think I want an E rated tire. Its just more tire than I need and don't want a rough ride. Discount only lists that Nitto in E. Really want something good in snow and ice. The Duratrac seems to get good reviews but who knows.

I am already looking forward to next years Northwest Overland Rally.
Me too!


Take care and keep having a fun summer man. And congratulations on your anniversary! WOOOHOOO!!
Likewise, I see you have been getting out and exploring. I always enjoy your pics.

Thanks!
 
FedEx presents!

Any idea what I'm going to be replacing soon?
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Have another order in on some other goodies too. Coming from Arizona...Will post pics when they get in.

Finally got a new Radiator Cap. Bought my OEM Radiator from a favorite online dealer about a year ago and never got a cap, kept forgetting to email to ask for one.

Got a new gas cap too. With the hotter weather my VSV valve is clicking. Kind of bugs me so we will see if the new cap does anything.

Incase anyones needs these, this is the part number for the Rear Wiper Slider (85247-35010) and Screws (9099-00925). Roof Rack End Caps (FL/RR 0078-35967 FR/RL 00278-35968) and new torx bolts for the roof rails (00278-96010).
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Checking things off the list

Had a few hours to do some random things to the Runner today.

Couple days back I got some beef from Arizona, Sonoran Steel Rear Lower Control Arms and Front Shackle Hangers. Since I have the non-replaceable Rear Control Arm Bushings it was either buy new arms or upgrade to these. For a bit more coin I have a bullet proof solution with OEM Bushings, perfect! I will install the Control Arms in a month or so when I do the Upper Control Arm Bushings and Panhard Bushings.
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Few coats of primer and some black, good enough to sit in the line of fire:
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Replaced my Radiator Cap and Gas Cap, hopefully quiet my VSV a bit:
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Installed my Hella Supertones. The Brackets that came with them were the perfect length and the stock plug fit on the horn without issue. All I had to do was make some ground leads and find a spacer for the passenger side:
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Replaced my Rear Wiper Guide.
Old:
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New:
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Replaced the Rear Rail Caps that I broke when installing the RM Antero:
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A pleasant form of therapy taking care of these little things.

In the coming month-ish:
New Rear Lower Control Arms
Replace Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings
Replace Panhard Bushings
Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings and Cam Adjusters
Replace Front Upper Control Arm Bushings

With those items done that will complete the entire suspension refresh I set out to do when I bought her. The 20 years not the mileage made we want to refresh everything. Everything outside of the ITRE's and Rack itself will have been replaced. Figuring that at 89k the Rack and ITRE's are probably good for a bit more before throwing money at those. She is currently driving very well, looking forward to getting all this done and off my mind, then to focus on new tires and some sliders.
 
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Labor on the Runner Day!

What was supposed to be a day of hiking turned into another day of wrenching. Go with the flow I guess! Haha.

I knocked out Rear Lower Control Arms, fixed some surface rust spots and painted the front splash/skid plate.

The original Bushings looked fine but were very hard and did not want to flex, the new units felt almost soft in comparison. I used a ratchet strap to keep the 3rd member stationary, kept both wheels on the ground and only did one side at a time. Removal was fast, re-install not so much. The RH side went in easy peasy but the LH fought me for a good 30 min. Jack up the 3rd member, check, nope, lower the 3rd member, check, nope, pull harder on the strap, check, nope. Just couldn't get it aligned to get the rear Bolt in. Finally got it aligned after some work with a tapered pry bar.

The struggle was worth it, the truck rides with way less body shake over sharper hits. Compliant comes to mind. Looking forward to doing the remaining Control Arm Bushings. Wondering if Body Mounts would be worthwhile?

Beefier! Would love to ask the Chassis/Suspension Engineer what the purpose and science was behind the large weights on the front of the original Arms?

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Front passenger mud flap had rubbed the Fender down to bare metal, that had then started to rust slightly. What might have been a parking booboo from the PO was down to bare metal from the time of the incident. Shame on them for leaving it that way!

Hit those up with the dremel to clean them up to fresh metal, prime and then enamel top coat. Good enough until I can get a professional to fix a couple other spots I want addressed, probably next spring.

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Added a rub strip for some added protection. Looks decent, functional, works for me.

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Today I replaced the Panhard Bushings with Strongflex poly units from Sonoran Steel, then gave her a quick bath in the dimming light. :bolt:

The Panhard Bar came out easy, old Bushings pressed out easy, new Bushings pressed in easy, Bar went back on easy. Love doing a quick job after work. Again the Bushings looked fine but were very hard.

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All in all the Bushings had some life left in them, no doubt. But I'm glad to have the peace of mind that they are done and the truck rides better and better. Worth the time and the money. Not bad for a Labor Day and a night.
 
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Rack tweak and a jack accessory...dirty

Since new, it has bugged me that the support brackets for the Antero were angled when mounted to the stock rails. When everything was tight it pulls the roof up a bit, the roof is not as stiff as the beefy rack! Took the rack off and a quick 5 minutes on the press and I have angled supports. If I had a Bridgeport or a CNC I would bevel some channel to match perfectly but that's a pipe dream at the moment, this will do for my uses.

Old:
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New:
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Got my Land Cruiser Products 100 Series Jack Adapter in, some hammered paint and it looks good. Tucks nicely in the stock area.

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Another big job tackled

My wife was out of town for about a week which meant I had access to her car while she was away, a perfect opportunity to bust out the last big job I have planned for the near future, Front Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings and Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings. I went with OEM for the Front Lowers, Energy for the Front Uppers and Strongflex for the Rear Uppers. I went with Energy for the Front Uppers since I will most likely replace the UCA’s if/when I lift it, felt like wasted money to go OEM there. OEM Rear Uppers are pricey, punting with the Strongflex for now. Cam Bolt Hardware was all OEM.

As always, I love working on my rust free rig, the Cam Bolts came out without issue and were in such good shape I could have easily reused them. Having the right tools made this job painless, went better than I expected.

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^Slick way to support the spindle and CV weight but allow room to work.

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^I found that with minimal upward force I could easily remove the LH Rear Cam Bolt.

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^Using the Bearing Splitter Method to pull the old Front Lowers out. They came out with a bang.

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^Gave both LCA a few coats of paint to cover up some light surface rust and road damage. I know the Calipers look terrible, I have some OEM ones to rebuild and put on during the next brake job.

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^Energy Uppers.

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^Strongflex Uppers.

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^Gave the Drums some paint too.

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^Lots of work to only replace that small pile of parts.

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Didn’t even need to go in for the alignment.

On another note, rolled over to 90k yesterday. Driving so damn good.

Next up is to give her a Fluid Film bath and do some tweaks to the Cargo Area and new Tires. Still trying to decide on Sliders.
 
Chachachanges

Over the past week I put in FatMat Rattletrap in the back, enlarged my RH Rear Cargo bin, added a voltmeter to the back, put some yellow Lamin-X on my fogs, Fluid Filmed the underside and got some KO2s. Just about winter ready.

I have used FatMat before and was happy with the performance and longevity of it. First I filled the small rib cavities and then put 3 layers on the floor, 3 layers in each quarter and wheel well. Gave the 2nd row floor under the seat 2 layers until I ran out. 100 sq ft in total. Much quieter but really exposed the lack of it up front, I have more on order and will finish it off in sections as time/desire allows. Not long ago I had the whole interior out, one wonders why I didn't do this then, all in one swoop. Well because I didn't plan ahead, hate that.

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Removed the smaller old style storage bin and put in some cheap remnant carpet. Not a ton more room but a good stash spot or place for a couple LBJs, spare bolts whatever.

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I bought this kit off of Amazon, worked well enough and if I had a larger compressor it would have been a fast and easy job. My little 3gal compressor could not keep up so I spent some time laying under the truck waiting for some pressure to build, good thing I like looking under my truck! It came with some flexible rubber extensions that I didn't try out.
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Happy so far with my new 265/75R16 KO2's. Thanks again to Road Bull for the heads up on the discount.
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Over the past month I have been slowly working on adding a Gentex mirror, Baja Designs backup lights, as well as getting my high beam indicator light to work again.

Ever since installing my HIDs the high beam indicator hasn't worked, due to the decreased load on the circuit. Finally got around to wiring in a 6ohm 50w resistor to fix the issue. It needed to see plenty of airflow as it gets incredibly hot. Built an aluminum bracket to make mounting easier that also serves as a heatsink. So far so good.
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For the Gentex mirror I put the temperature probe inside the air box to get the most consistent readings possible regardless of vehicle speed. Currently its reading about 4-6 degrees high, going to see if cleaning the contacts makes it more accurate, maybe it needs a resistor in line. Not a lot of troubleshooting literature online so not sure how to fix this.
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So I can remove things easily in the future I wired in a Connector just outside the air box:
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Lots of wires I have added to the area over the last couple years:
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Final product:
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During black friday I scored some Baja Designs S2 Sport lights. Overall I am very happy with the light output and the look, but do wish the lights were about 5mm higher. Did my darnedest to mock them up and get a feel for the correct height, oh well.

No going back now:
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OTRATTW for the win:
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Clean wiring takes some time but it's the only way to go. Routed up into the body then across to the drivers side, routes along main harness to a relay mounted on the firewall, relay gets power from my under seat fuse box. Coiled cable jacket is the trailer wiring the PO/dealer installed:
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Final product (love the lighting in this shot, no pun intended):
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Took her out this weekend for some quick dirt:
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Should be getting all the pieces for the lift kit in the next week or so. Happy new year!
 
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love all this work.

I guess the "like" system has disappeared and the entire T4R ORG now runs on chewing gum and bailing wire so... just wanted to say thanks for posting. love all the detailed information.
 
love all this work.

I guess the "like" system has disappeared and the entire T4R ORG now runs on chewing gum and bailing wire so... just wanted to say thanks for posting. love all the detailed information.

Thanks, Andy.

Haha, it's free so I guess we just have to deal with the issues sometimes. Not happy that all my previously uploaded pictures have gone bye bye though, ughhh. Hope all is well with you and your family. How's the remodel going?
 
Thanks, Andy.

Haha, it's free so I guess we just have to deal with the issues sometimes. Not happy that all my previously uploaded pictures have gone bye bye though, ughhh. Hope all is well with you and your family. How's the remodel going?

We all made thru the holidays and gained a few pounds. Got all the electric,rough in plumbing, venting and framing done enough so the spray foam insulation guys can do their thing so I’m making progress.

I also lost some posts in my sketchy build... will have to redo some posts. Sigh. :cheers:

I fired up the sandblaster today so that felt good. I can make some progress on my frame up restore project. Trying to figure out this epoxy primer stuff.
 
A lift and some protection

Been awhile since I last updated, some pretty big changes have taken place.

Before Black Friday I ordered the Shrockworks Bolt On Sliders w/ Dimpled Tread Plates. 11 weeks later I had beautiful black Sliders on my doorstep. While my favorite Sliders are Stubbs with a kick-out, they don't offer bolt on. I wanted bolt on for many reasons and decided that overall look was not as important as other things on the list. If only I could get bolt on Stubbs with tread plates, guess I need to buy a welder and learn how to do it myself!

I really hated drilling holes in my perfect frame but I much prefer a primed and painted hole than an area that has been exposed to welding and thus compromised corrosion protection.

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During Black Friday I ordered the Sonoran Steel 1.2 Current kit with extended 2.5 Radflos. Took about 8 weeks to get the Radflo fronts, less for the SS parts, thanks Steve! Super excited and then notice that they installed 650lb springs, I ordered 600lb. Couple emails back and forth with Radflo and Sonoran and new shocks are one their way with the correct spring rate.

My initial drooling and excitement was quickly gone once they were installed and I backed it out of the garage, more about that later.

While the whole install was easy from a technical side, it did take longer than expected. So much so that I had to do it over two days, rear first then the front. Two major issues I ran into, 1) the “extended” stainless rear brake line I bought and installed two years ago turned out to not be as “extended” as it needed to be. Had to replace that with the Sonoran supplied line and re-bleed, ugghh. Wife was not too happy to be pressing the brake pedal at 10:30pm on a weeknight. 2) Those extended 2.5 Radflos at full droop can have contact between the Spring and the Spindle at the UBJ. While a bad situation out on the trail it also makes adjusting the Spring Perch position a PITA! I had to disconnect the LBJ each time so I could pivot the entire Spinge/UCA up to clear the Spring. Lame.

The Radflo’s arrived with a ton of preload, initial install had my front end level with the rear, when I should be shooting for a 2.5” rake. Oh well, I needed to drive it the next day so I left it. Upon taking it for a quick shake down I knew right away something was not right. Backing out of my driveway, when the front wheels hit the curbing I got a loud clank/thunk from both sides. Ok, shit, pull it back in the garage. Go over everything, didn’t miss a torque etc. Back out again, thunk thunk. Too late to care and I need to drive to work the next day. Get an email into Sonoran and Radflo the next day and the prevailing thought was that they were topping out because of the excessive preload. Didn’t seem to be the problem to me… Wrench, wrench, wrench and I get them level. Back out again, thunk thunk. Over every little bump or expansion joint, thunk. No odd noises when turning or flexing, just thunks with quick shock movements.

Talk to Steve at Sonoran, Glenn at Radflo- maybe the shocks are missing a piece of hardware in the top hat? Maybe the spherical bearings are not installed right? Wrench, wrench, wrench, take the shocks off, rip apart the top hats and look into everything. Everything was tight and there were no missing pieces or signs of loose tolerances. Put them back on, and you guessed it thunk, thunk, thunk down the road. Couldn’t imagine driving the truck offroad for any distance, sounded like something was not going to survive long. Sigh.

Lots of emails, lots of questions and not a lot of answers from Radflo. Their position was that my expectations of the product were not aligned with the products offering. For them, it came down to the spherical bearings and my expectations of ride quality. I expected NVH to increase, I expected a more jarring ride on sharp edge hits, I have experienced spherical bearings in place of bushings before. What I experienced was none of those things, it was straight up bad and something wasn’t right.

More discussion with Sonoran and Radflo and we come to an agreement to return the Radflos and go with 5100s instead. The Radflo’s went back to them, they were torn down and found to have nothing wrong with them…

It was a long road to get this lift on and riding well. Steve at Sonoran was awesome to deal with and ensured I was happy and satisfied throughout the entire ordeal. Radflo left me a bit unsatisfied, their communication was very lacking and not at all interested in trying to determine root cause for my issues…send them back and we will look into it was the answer. Ultimately they made everything right and I really appreciate that from them. I wanted to experience a higher end product and give it a fair trial. I don’t feel I received a proper set of shocks and unfortunately my experience with their company left a certain taste in my mouth. I know who I will and won’t recommend in the future.

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Knowing that my CV Boots would at least puke grease everywhere or crack, I already had on hand new OEM CV Boots. So many paper towels and cans of brake cleaner later and I had two freshly booted CVs. I attempted the stretch boot mod using a portion of the old boot but it just didn’t seem to produce a good seal so I ditched the idea and installed them in their original locations. I’m getting contact/rubbing on the inside flutes/ribs but its not terrible. Will monitor and then maybe stretch them a bit and use zip ties in place of the band clamps.

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Got her aligned and I am just on the edge of Caster spec at 1.7deg. Camber is at 0.1deg and 0.6deg. Doesn’t appear that I need aftermarket UPA but I will see how the tires wear and go from there. The Runner is riding great and looks soooo good. Now if Plastics guy would make us those shorty SR5 mudflap he promised…
 

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