Rockdawg84
New member
Disclaimer: For info only. work on your supercharger at your own risk!!!!!
So last year I sent my supercharger off to have it fully rebuilt including Rotor coating. When I got it back it ran sweet and like a dream. But it's always had a little bit of oil seep from the front nose cone seal. Yes I know that I should have done something about it right away but I didn't. So because of it being a first gen (grey) supercharger I couldn't just add oil to the nose cone like if it had been a 2nd gen (black) supercharger. I meant to deal with it I really did but some stuff came up and suddenly the bearings were making noise. So I began doing a lot of research because I didn't want to drop the money on a nose cone rebuild. Well I got lucky enough to find a company that sells all the parts to do a nose cone rebuild. Rolling Performance Home not bad to get all the parts for under $80 but I was sure I could do even better than that. So after much research I found the bearing part numbers and found a great set of Nachi on Ebay for about $8 each.
then for $12 got the good new front seal from rolling performance since I couldn't find the part number anywhere. Oil and anaerobic gasket maker came to about $15 so I was out about $42 and got an adventure in supercharger land. I got my good friend and ASE master mechanic to help for insurance.
First you DO NOT have to remove the whole supercharger to get the nose cone off. Remove the upper radiator clamp on the engine side and slide it back don't remove the hose. Then remove the belt and supercharger tensioner. Then you can remove the timing cover and gain access to all the nose cone bolts. Be sure to put a towel under he nose cone as any oil will come out as you remove the nose cone. Once off the pulley can be removed and the front seal can be removed by taking out he snap ring and then removing the seal. Then the bearing shaft needs to be pressed out.
Then the coupler end of the shaft needs to be pressed off so you can get to the back bearing. Be careful to keep the springs as they put preload on the bearings.
Then you can press on new rear bearing, spring and the coupler back on the shaft. Be careful the coupler and shaft are splined and you don't want to mess them up.
before putting everything back together I decided we were going to drill and tap the nose cone so that oil changes could be done without removing it.
So using a 7/16" drill bit we carefully drilled through the top of the nose cone. then used a 1/4"-18NPT tap we tapped the hole to accept a 1/4"-18npt plug.
now I can change the oil anytime I want using a syringe and small tube to suck out the old oil before putting new oil in. A big thanks to my friend Marc for all his work on this project.
So last year I sent my supercharger off to have it fully rebuilt including Rotor coating. When I got it back it ran sweet and like a dream. But it's always had a little bit of oil seep from the front nose cone seal. Yes I know that I should have done something about it right away but I didn't. So because of it being a first gen (grey) supercharger I couldn't just add oil to the nose cone like if it had been a 2nd gen (black) supercharger. I meant to deal with it I really did but some stuff came up and suddenly the bearings were making noise. So I began doing a lot of research because I didn't want to drop the money on a nose cone rebuild. Well I got lucky enough to find a company that sells all the parts to do a nose cone rebuild. Rolling Performance Home not bad to get all the parts for under $80 but I was sure I could do even better than that. So after much research I found the bearing part numbers and found a great set of Nachi on Ebay for about $8 each.
then for $12 got the good new front seal from rolling performance since I couldn't find the part number anywhere. Oil and anaerobic gasket maker came to about $15 so I was out about $42 and got an adventure in supercharger land. I got my good friend and ASE master mechanic to help for insurance.
First you DO NOT have to remove the whole supercharger to get the nose cone off. Remove the upper radiator clamp on the engine side and slide it back don't remove the hose. Then remove the belt and supercharger tensioner. Then you can remove the timing cover and gain access to all the nose cone bolts. Be sure to put a towel under he nose cone as any oil will come out as you remove the nose cone. Once off the pulley can be removed and the front seal can be removed by taking out he snap ring and then removing the seal. Then the bearing shaft needs to be pressed out.
Then the coupler end of the shaft needs to be pressed off so you can get to the back bearing. Be careful to keep the springs as they put preload on the bearings.
Then you can press on new rear bearing, spring and the coupler back on the shaft. Be careful the coupler and shaft are splined and you don't want to mess them up.
before putting everything back together I decided we were going to drill and tap the nose cone so that oil changes could be done without removing it.
So using a 7/16" drill bit we carefully drilled through the top of the nose cone. then used a 1/4"-18NPT tap we tapped the hole to accept a 1/4"-18npt plug.
now I can change the oil anytime I want using a syringe and small tube to suck out the old oil before putting new oil in. A big thanks to my friend Marc for all his work on this project.
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